While preparing orders last couple of days, I stumbled upon a perfectly heart shaped seed among Fritillaria atropurpurea stock.
I took it as a sign that I must also sow few seeds and put aside a tiny package for myself, heart included :)

Fritillaria atropurpurea seeds

 

There is one last pck. left for Fritillaria atropurpurea. All other Frits sold out at the moment, thank you – merci

 

Reminder: this is the best time to start sowing species that require cold/moist stratification!!!

October ended with a nice surprise. Roscoea schneideriana has flowered beautifully this year and in all honesty I didn’t expect any seeds; it was enough to see it thriving in the garden. Then, one day I noticed that one capsule had burst open and the seeds spilled on the ground.

Roscoea schneideriana with split capsule and seeds in late October

It is always very rewarding when a plant started from seeds reaches the point of flowering well and produces seeds! And Roscoea schneideriana is a special one, with characters a bit unique in its genus (to mention just the leaves arrangement, the length of the staminodes and the round anther appendages). It grows wild in Western China (Sichuan and Yunnan), in mixed forests, open limestone slopes, among rocks and ledges of mountains between 2600-3350 m alt. (from The Genus Roscoea, Jill Cowley).

Roscoea schneideriana flowering in early September; notice the round anther appendages, a good ID character for this species

I know that most people in our climate avoid growing hardy gingers, but they are not difficult to start from seeds.
Most species are warm germinators, or will germinate after a short period of cold/moist stratification (1 month). So, you can sow and start them under lights indoors in February/March, or directly outdoors in April/May (depending on the region).
In the first year the seedlings grow for a few months and then become dormant; do not overwater when dormant. They should be grown in the same pot for 2 years at least until the little tubers can be handled more easily.

As you will see, they form fleshy, elongated tubers which need a bit of extra attention for a couple of years (in most cases I overwinter them in pots in the garage). After that you can plant them in the garden (in a part-shaded, well drained location) and you’re done!

Growing from seeds you always get to play with few seedlings not just one plant, and you can experiment with planting in various locations. I find they are much easier to establish when planting young tubers than fully grown plants. They can get fast to the soil depth of their liking and survive better our harsh winters.

One more thing: don’t wait for them to emerge at spring time. They sit underground chit chatting with the Arisaemas and both forget it is time to show up. And then they all do it in a big hurry!

You can also read about R. auriculata below (the Earth octopus). It also flowered well but no seeds. Maybe next year :)

Sanguinaria canadensis, our most beloved spring harbinger must be appreciated beyond its flowers; albeit beautiful, they last only few days. In very dry years, the leaves may go dormant early. However, with enough moisture they remain lovely until late fall!

Sanguinaria canadensis (bloodroot) pictured a few days ago

Asarum canadense it is also a ‘beyond flowers’ species; the flowers appear at the ground level and are barely noticeable. But the leaves emerge in early spring and throughout the season will keep very good company as a groundcover for other species, plus they remain decorative until late October.

Asarum canadense (wild ginger) leaves spotting the woodland floor in late October

Soon, only the queens of the woodlands (i.e. Hepatica) will be reigning over the forest, together with a few loyal evergreens (Chimaphila, various sedges and Mitchella repens). Their foliage will be replaced by the new leaves only in the spring after the flowering.

Asarum canadense and Hepatica acutiloba foliage in late October

Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix

You can grow these species together, like in their natural habitat (add few Trilliums and Erythronium americanum, Claytonia virginica…) or in various other combinations.

Appreciate them beyond the flowers, spring, summer and fall!

 

If for some reason there is someone who doesn’t have at least one Arisaema in the garden, then there is Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense to consider.

Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense is my longest lived Arisaema in the ground, and I’m in love with it. I was a bit in doubt if liubaense until I had to move it and sow the stoloniferous tubers (one difference from A. ciliatum).

It shows up late, somewhere in mid-June and then, in a blink of an eye, purple flowers will peak curiously at you from underneath the umbrella-like leaf. Commonly they are called Cobra lilies but don’t be afraid they are super friendly.

Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense 2019

A nice surprise this year, they showed up in pair and now we have babies :)
It is amazing how fast the fruit matured from green to red in about one week.

Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense fruit

Also to consider: Arisaema amurense, A. flavum and our lovely NA A. triphyllum. All super cold hardy and easy to grow.

Playing with Polypodium virginianum spores? Have a mossy boulder? maybe better to proceed to sowing :)

Polypodium virginianum spores

Few writings about Glaucidium palmatum germination that can be found in the related posts or by typing Glaucidium in the Search tab.

This is only a notice that fresh seeds are in stock! 

Glaucidium palmatum seedlings: the seeds will germinate in two successive years no matter the sowing treatment

Seeds from a most generous friend will be forwarded to you now in generous packets :)

Glaucidium palmatum 

Glaucidium palmatum ‘Album’

 

A couple of days ago I stumbled upon Hepatica acutiloba happily growing in the rock fissure of a mossy boulder (with Polystichum lonchitis) and it took me a bit by surprise; we don’t often think about H. acutiloba as a species for crevice rock gardening, do we?
It is something good to consider by the look of it.

Hepatica acutiloba

Coincidence, today I packed seeds of H. acutiloba-pastel mix, and there are more available.
Something else good to consider ;)

I meant to write about this a while ago; it was never a good time for it.
The question of how to easily recognize Hylomecon from the Stylophorum species had been long clarified and I see no point to repeat it all.
If you want/need to know how to correctly identify Hylomecon , Stylophorum diphyllum and Stylophorum lasiocarpum, please read this well written post on Garden Myths blog:
https://www.gardenmyths.com/hylomecon-japonica-which-is-the-real-plant/

Now that we know how to distinguish the species, with good close-up pictures of the seeds we can avoid to mistake one for another in the seeds exchanges ;)

If we would have the chance to look at fresh seeds, it wouldn’t be hard to distinguish them because the seeds are equipped with particular elaiosomes, quite beautiful in the case of S. diphyllum. Unfortunately after the seeds dry out, or after they are placed in moist storage, these fatty structures fade rapidly.

Regrettably Hylomecon vernalis (syn. H. japonica) rarely, if ever, sets seeds in cultivation in our region (and elsewhere, I understand).
I suspect there is a self- incompatibility problem, the majority of plants belonging to the same clone, which was vegetatively propagated over a long period of time.

I have watched it closely in my garden in the last two years hoping that maybe the others are just missing the seeds (the capsules are explosive). But no, the capsules form and seem OK, only to disappoint upon opening. You can imagine the excitement when I received H. vernalis seeds in late summer! And moist packed no less! Because of this I postponed washing them out to take proper pictures.

Let’s see a comparison now; all seeds after moist storage since late summer and on 1 mm grid.

Hylomecon vernalis (forest poppy): notice the glabrous capsule, seeds more or less 2 mm in lenght.

 

Stylophorum lasiocarpum (Chinese celandine poppy): notice the hairy capsules and smaller size seeds, always less than 2 mm

Stylophorum diphyllum, the NA woodland poppy: larger, ovoidal capsule and the largest seeds by comparison (most often 2+ mm)

 

A note I considered useful to write before adding the seeds of peony species to the Shop.
Most seasoned gardeners who grow peonies from seeds are well acquainted with the phenomenon of hybridization, a natural process occurring in many species, not just the peonies.

Very simple, it means that when there are other peonies present in the garden, the resulting seedlings may not entirely resemble the plant that produced the seeds (differences can be noted in foliage/flowers). Some species can also hybridize in the wild, when 2 different species grow together in the same area.
A few peony species are known to hybridize more than others (P. peregrina, P. daurica s.l.).

There is no guarantee how the seedlings will look like. The only guarantee is that the seeds were collected from specimens identified and named, as best as possible, based on their botanical characters.

Personally, I will continue to grow them from seeds of different accessions/species because in the end the goal is to obtain good, beautiful plants adapted to your garden conditions. I still have to see an ‘ugly’ peony grown from seeds. Have you?

This is a list with links to the current offerings; 2 pck./order max. please. Click on the names for links to each product page.

Paeonia japonica (as usual)
Paeonia obovata (new accession)
Paeonia wittmanniana hybrid1
Paeonia wittmanniana hybrid2
Paeonia peregrina
Paeonia tenuifolia
Paeonia officinalis
Paeonia officinalis hybrid, new
Paeonia mlokosewitchii (as usual)

Available somewhere next week:
Paeonia rockii
Paeonia delavayi
Paeonia anomala

Young Paeonia mlokosewitchii in my garden, it may flower to be a ‘true’ mlokosewitchii or not, I couldn’t care less…

This fall we got lucky: not only Disporum uniflorum has set fruits but I also got to them before the squirrels did (I suppose one of them was guilty for breaking the stems last year).
A simply gorgeous plant all year long; if I would really have to choose only 3 plants for a part- shade location Disporum uniflorum would be on top of the list.

Few pictures are better than a thousand words…

Disporum uniflorum flowering in my old and new garden

It can also be combined with the American fairy bells, Uvularia grandiflora which flowers at the same time, Helleborus, Trilliums, various Primulas, woodland peonies ;)… to mention just a few.

Dark blue fruits are developing later (not too many, there is a little problem with self-pollination) but even the non-fertilized fruits get dark blue contrasting nicely with the yellowing foliage in mid-September.
Moist- packed seeds sown asap will germinate in late spring (in translation: the requirement for germination is a slightly warm period followed by cold); the seedlings are easy going.

Disporum uniflorum, fall color, fruits, fresh seeds and seedlings :)

In the Seeds shop now right now: Disporum uniflorum
One pck./order please because there aren’t too many and from moist packed seeds germination is 100%. If someone wants to place an order in combination with a friend, let me know please: Contact.

Later in the afternoon – the peonies….stay tuned.

 

Yes, Symplocarpus seeds are in stock and customers are starting to notice it.
Before more questions arise, especially from new customers excited to find seeds not offered by someone else, an explanation for ordering/shipping of species with large seeds.

Right on the Symplocarpus foetidus page one can read:
These seeds cannot be ordered using the international low shipping rates; not on AU Bicon list
Limit 1 pck./order

This means that for international orders one must place an order over 25$. The minimum seeds pck. allowed for orders over 25$ is 5.
Of course all is detailed here: Shipping & delivery

Why? some may ask.

Symplocarpus foetidus fruit

The Symplocarpus seeds are very large and moist packed; this makes it for a large packet that cannot be sent via letter size.
Why 5 pck.?
Does it make any sense to send bubble envelopes across the ocean with 1 pck. of seeds inside?

An alternative to the plastic bubble would be nice (and they are not really necessary in most cases) but the cardboards envelopes tried are too heavy (for now). In conclusion: please read all the info available before starting to place orders.
For special requests regarding the 1 pck. limit, please use the Contact page.

Thank you.

Sent by young seedlings of Erythronium americanum – courtesy of Vivienne.

Erythronium americanum seedlings

 

And a long overdue note for AU customers:
Orders from AU are most than welcomed, dry or moist seeds, although the latter take a lot of time to process. I am always very happy to receive updates, especially about the germination of moist packed species which many have tried before with no success from dry seeds.

However, I have to emphasize again that in order to navigate the Bicon system collaboration from all parts involved is required.

Please read and comply with the instructions outlined in the Shipping and Delivery page. Failure to do so only results in refunded orders (and added frustrations).
Thank you.

The seeds are in stock!
Reminder: when kept moist, Paris quadrifolia seeds will start to germinate (root only) somewhere in October/early November.

Also, Clintonia borealis and Caulophyllum are back in stock.

Like it or not, the colored berries of the baneberries are heralds of the summer’s end. Looking at my Actaea pachypoda raised from seeds four years ago, I realized that I forgot to mention the baneberries when talking about what species should be sown first.

Actaea pachypoda (doll’s- eyes, white baneberry)

Actaea pachypoda, A. pachypoda fo. rubrocarpa  and Actaea rubra (in the featured image) will germinate in the first spring only when sown right away in late summer/early fall  (a slightly warm period required before the winter cold).
A bit slow to start but then they grow with the speed of light. Very useful in dry shaded locations.

Seeds are in stock and also included in the fast shipping category.
A reminder that various species (with small, medium size seeds) can be purchased now by the customers  with international destinations using this category (2-6 pck. for 4.50$ flat rate).
More species will be added as as the inventory gets updated.

In need of companions for a native species shaded spot? The following can be usually found growing with the baneberries: Thalictrum dioicum, Hydrophyllum virginianum, Mitella diphylla, Viola labradorica, Asclepias exaltata; from the moist packed seeds: Maianthemum spp., Uvularia, Trillium, Asarum canadense, Sanguinaria canadensis, to mention just a few…

 

Knowing that most Ranunculus seeds have short viability, about two weeks ago I put the Ranunculus crenatus seeds in moist storage.
I thought that it may not happen again to find such treasures and what a pity to have them go to waste.

Today, surprise in the Ziploc bag!
Few are still just about to germinate – so, this is the last call and be advised that the seeds may arrive at destination germinated! (don’t purchase if uncomfortable with the idea).

Ranunculus crenatus germinated seeds; if I assume correctly considering other alpines Ranunculus species, the first leaves will appear in the spring after a cold period.

I’m off to sowing :)

With many thanks to the owner of the well known by now Aspen Grove Garden (Guelph, ON), who collected and successfully tried a new method for storing hydrophilic seeds, we can continue to indulge in Jeffersonia diphylla seeds.

This lovely (and rather rare in Canada) North American native species doesn’t fit the profile for mass propagation. So, here is the chance to grow it for yourself from moist kept seeds, and give it a home in your garden. True that it takes 3-4 years until reaching flowering age but what a joy to see it starting to grow and flowering every spring afterwards.  I will make it a big event when my first seedlings will flower (next year I hope :)

Not too many seeds available this season; for many spring flowering species the pollination has been affected in our region by the very cold weather. Do not wait too long!

Jeffersonia diphylla fresh seeds 2019

Also, we can relax a bit about Trillium grandiflorum. I managed to collect not too many seeds and luckily now there are more.
Do not relax for too long though because, as I showed every year, most of these seeds will start to germinate (little tuber/root) somewhere in September and after that shipping is not possible anymore.

Trillium grandiflorum fresh seeds 2019; most of these seeds will start to germinate (tuber/root only) somewhere in September/early October! like shown in the picture below

Trillium grandiflorum germinated seeds after a first warm cycle; the first leaves will grow after a cold cycle (ie. winter); part of the seeds will only germinate in the second year after sowing

There is plenty to read on this website about growing Jeffersonia and Trillium from seeds, I’ll leave you to the readings :)

We’ll talk later about how to easily keep hydrophilic seeds in good condition for a few months without bothering with Ziploc bags and moist vermiculite.

PS. Caulophyllum thalictroides mix seeds also in stock!