August and September are the best to admire and/or collect many colorful fleshy fruits.
These are some of the latest waiting to be processed.  All beautiful and requiring much more work for extracting and cleaning the seeds than the dry fruits.

All species shown in this picture germinate best when sown in late summer/early fall. They require a slightly warm cycle followed by a cold one; failing to sow them as such results in germination only on the second spring after sowing ;) Mark them on your wish list!

*Actaea pachypoda fo. rubrocarpa fruits were collected from a garden-cultivated plant grown from seeds; it comes true to the form and is a nice addition to the regular A. pachypoda with white fruits (not mature yet).

**Actaea rubra fo. neglecta is the rare form with white fruits of A. rubra; wild collected fruits.

 

 

First of all, seeds of Erythronium americanum are in stock, in limited quantity. The spring weather wasn’t favorable for the early flowering species pollination.

Then, a few Helleborus are already in stock: H. x hybridus ‘Cherry Blossoms‘, H. niger, H. foetidus and in limited quantity – H. purpurascens!
How rewarding to see the Helleborus purpurascens grown up and starting to produce seeds! Seeds from mother-plants which were grown from wild collected seeds are the next best thing, beside the wild coll. seeds.

They should be sown during the summer months in order to obtain germination in the next spring. I wish there were more Helleborus to offer. They are so easy to grow from seeds and even if some cultivars won’t come true to the mother plants 100%, there are only nice surprises to expect.

Also, the formerly Corydalis, now Pseudofumaria alba and the NA Rock harlequin, Capnoides sempervirens are also in stock. Pseudofumaria lutea will follow shortly.
These species behave similarly in regards to the germination: fresh seeds sown right away will mostly germinate during summer time and form a leaf rosette; next year they will start flowering. Seeds sown later in the fall/early winter will mostly germinate after a cold period.

For those who need encouragement to start growing plants from seeds, I always recommend to try a few of the “easy” species, like these ones. Throw the seeds in the garden (in a location you will water at least occasionally) and is almost impossible not to obtain a few plants (same goes for Papaver species).
Especially for those problem places where nothing seems to grow, try these “Corydalis” and you will not be disappointed. What else would grow so bountiful around the house foundation? The ‘unwanted’ are easily removed.

Few other usual species of mid to late June are also collected and will be available next week: Sanguinaria canadensis (just coll. yesterday), Stylophorum diphyllum, S. lasiocarpum and hopefully Asarum canadense.

Do you need ideas about NA native woodland species to introduce into your garden? Take a hike into the woods; nature is the best expert in providing answers ;)

Trillium grandiflorum, the large white trillium and some of its companions are in flower right now and, with the current summer-like temperatures will not last long.
(other species not seen in the gallery: Erythronium americanum, Actaea rubra and A. pachypoda, Sambucus, Lonicera canadensis, Thalictrum dioicum, Hydrophyllum virginianum…)

Notes for the Seeds Shop

  • The inventory of dry seeds will not be updated from now on (with the exception of two stage germinators: Lilium and Paeonia). This is the time to concentrate on the first seed collections, and most species, as it happens, require moist storage; it is a lot of work.
    Updates and new additions to the Seeds List will follow in late summer–early fall.
  • Some Corydalis seeds have been collected; they will be available at the same time with the first Hepatica seeds in June. And fingers crossed that Claytonia virginica will also be available again this year.
  • The collection of Hepatica seeds will most likely start at the end of the month/early June, and will be followed by Asarum, Stylophorum diphyllum and towards end of June: Sanguinaria canadensis and Erythronium americanum (if possible to collect).
    The availability of these species will be announced. They all require moist storage and are best sown right away.

This is how most Hepatica plants are looking at this time: new foliage has developed and the pedicels holding the fruit heads are hiding under the new leaves. This makes them hard to spot and is a good sign to keep in mind that the collecting has to be done soon.
Until the seeds are collected, I suggest a visit to the Hepatica page  where you can read more on the subject.

It is always interesting to see that some species always germinate at about the same time the mother plants emerge in the garden. Hydrastis canadensis, the goldenseal, is one of them. The seeds have started to germinate last week, at the same time the plants started to appear in the garden.

In order to offer more seeds, we have to increase our stock (conservation through propagation ;) plus they are such delightful plants to grow.

Because there are always questions regarding the seeds collections, the goldenseal fruits mature somewhere at the beginning of August (in this region/ also depending on the weather). So, they could be available in the September update of the Seeds List.

With regret, we cannot answer questions like: When….seeds will be available? simply because no one can tell.
The collection of seeds it is always under the influence of weather conditions (and various garden/woodland critters). For those interested to purchase or to collect their own seeds, here are few species to keep an eye upon during May and June in SW Ontario (with a margin of +/- 2 weeks).
In some years there are seeds from all, but most often not all are setting seeds/can be collected regularly.

May:
Corydalis solida and other species of Corydalis, Eranthis
Hepatica americana and H. acutiloba, Claytonia virginica, Dirca palustris
June:
Asarum canadense, Sanguinaria canadensis, Anemonella thalictroides
Erythronium americanum, Stylophorum diphyllum, Anemone quinquefolia
Lonicera canadensis, various Viola species, Polygala paucifolia…

Many trees are expanding their leaves, but the weather has remained cool and probably some seeds will mature later than usual. Stylophorum diphyllum is blooming; Uvularia grandiflora is just starting and we can look forward to a prolonged show of Trillium grandiflorum. If you want an early flowering Clematis, you can always count on C. occidentalis.

I also have to mention that the first blooms of Paeonia japonica are opening!  The nearby Viola sororia fo. priceana was looking gorgeous, and to not discriminate, I took a picture. And wait, Glaucidium is also starting to bloom!

On the sunny side: Papaver chakassicum decided to keep company to the little Iris suaveolens f. rubromarginata ex. Dobrogea. Pulsatillas are still flowering and there will be many more flowers to come!

The “season of ten thousand flowers” has begun :) Enjoy!

The unusual warm weather experienced in SW Ontario for a while has determined many spring beauties to explode into fast growth and flowering. Then, the torrential rains arrived, and now we are heading backwards to the winter…(snow showers outside at the moment).

This is, most years, the early spring time in Ontario!

The earliest spring beauties are in flower: Lindera benzoin, Lonicera canadensis, Claytonia virginica, Caulophyllum, Hepatica americana and H. acutiloba.  Sanguinaria canadensis has almost finished flowering (depending on the region) and yesterday I noticed the first trout lilies blooming, plus Trillium erectum and T. grandiflorum with buds just about to open! The wild ginger is well on its way of carpeting the woodland floor/garden.

In the garden, few Primulas and Helleborus have been flowering for a couple of weeks now alongside Corydalis.  Other spring beauties are appearing almost on a daily basis. *Our native Primula mistassinica is in flower as well but I didn’t take a picture yet.

Young shoots of Caulophyllum thalictroides/giganteum

*Young seedlings have also appeared and some new sowings are starting to germinate.
Especially for those who have sown Caulophyllum in the ground two years ago (and the few lucky ones who received one year-old stratified seeds) –  be careful because the young shoots are dark colored (almost black) for a while and they can be easily stepped upon. Same goes for other directly sown native species in the ground, even if green colored/or sown in pots: Asarum  and Stylophorum diphyllum, Hepatica, should be germinating around this time, or soon.

 

Talking about Papaver bracteatum brought to my mind the New York Botanical Garden (NYBG) visited many years ago. I didn’t see this species there, but I used in the shop the featured picture with Papaver orientale (a similar species) taken in the Jane Watson Irwin Perennial Garden (part of NYBG).

So, a good occasion to show a few more pictures from Jane Watson Irwin Perennial Garden, which I found particularly lovely. The weather wasn’t quite good and they were taken with an old camera. Even so, you will understand the ‘spirit’ of this garden and maybe found inspiration for your garden.

The initial geometrical design of D.U. Kiley in the 1970s had seen a few modifications in the 1980s; the plantings were modified as well. Today’s look is the creation of public space designer Lynden B. Miller, who used the existing garden structure like a painter’s palette to combine various perennials, bulbs, shrubs and annual plants to achieve a masterful work of living art.
Although I’ve only seen it only  once, in early summer, I easily imagine how this garden beautifully transforms continuously throughout the seasons.

To visit the whole NYBG one needs a short vacation, especially in late May/June when also the peonies are in flower!
There is a peony album which I still keep on the website; I like to have a ‘peony viewing’ once in a while ;)
One picture per blossom: A Peony Album

Paeonia lactiflora collection border at NYBG

The latest splurge in posting pictures was only possible by deleting some of the oldest posting (who really reads about 600! of them?). The superfluous have to go to the trash bin.
But there are some who can be a bit improved and worth keeping as records for the flora of a specific region, especially if seeds were collected (and maybe they will be again).

So, a revisit of the Lizard Ranges in SE British Columbia is warranted for this weekend getaway.

Parts of the Lizard Ranges mountains are easily accessible from the town of Fernie, BC, located about one hour drive from Cranbrook, or about 4 hours from Calgary. Although mainly a winter ski resort and a gathering for mountain biking lovers, there are multiple hiking trails well suited for one day trips and few of them can be ‘shortened’ by taking up the two ski lifts operating during the summer (note: the Timberline only works during weekends). This allows for more botanizing time.

There are many plants species to be admired along the way, wildlife, rocks and glamorous mountain ridges. Because of the gradient in altitude, there is the chance to find some species in fruit and flower on the same time! I will not detail every trail, many species are repeating anyway. The trails are well marked and maps can be purchased on site.

The pictures below illustrate the Summer Road Trail through the Skeleton Flats and above, which I consider an amazingly beautiful place.
Of course, not all plants can be shown, but is enough to give an idea of the region and its flora; few explanations with every picture. Enjoy!

Other trails worth doing are: Peak to Park trail and the most amazing Spineback trail (which extends further into the Goldilocks).
There are many species and landscape images not presented here, there isn’t that much space available, but again, I think they suffice to make an introduction to this most beautiful region.

We need something to warm us up and nothing can be better than a hot image of Castilleja applegatei, wavy leaf paintbrush, taken many years ago in the Albion Basin of the Wasatch Mts., Utah.

Castilleja applegatei, wavy leaf paintbrush

Hiking on many North American mountain trails will most likely bring you face to face with at least one Castilleja species. Not easy to grow from seeds, they are highly admired and desirable; the best bet is to try them within a plant community containing species from their wild habitat.

Because I couldn’t find to collect Castilleja coccinea seeds locally, I tried to procure at least another Castilleja species (which is also not an easy task).
So, do not miss the chance to give it a try, it may be a one-time offering: Castilleja applegatei.

Castilleja applegatei in a mountain meadow mix with: Helianthella, Lupinus, Eriogonum, Penstemon, Agastache…

 Yes, these species are not easy to germinate and sometimes they will do it after two years, but I think they are worth trying.
Last week I also included this species in the experiment with GA3; the acid gibberellic treatment doesn’t work for all the species, but first we need to try it.

Stay warm and tuned for the weekend gateway ;)

These are the latest seeds added to the inventory; please check the updated Seed List 2020-2021, always in the works...
Back in stock:
Amphicarpaea bracteata
Amphicarpaea bracteata var. comosa
Cercis canadensis
Lilium columbianum

New/not often offered:
Actaea spicata
Anemone drummondi var. lithophila
*Anemone occidentalis (syn. Pulsatilla occidentalis)
Calochortus macrocarpus
Cirsium hookerianum
**Clintonia udensis

*Note on Anemone occidentalis

Seeds were previously offered in 2018 ( wild coll. from Lizard Ranges, BC). Although fresh, the seeds I sowed didn’t germinate in the spring of 2019. It may be that they were sown too fast; yes, sowing very fresh seeds it is actually not good sometimes!.
If someone who purchased seeds obtained germination, please let me know. I am interested in what conditions they did so (date of sowing/temp.).

I have started a small experiment a few days ago with 2020 and 2018 seeds.  Until I have some data I will bring attention to the after-ripening (AR). It is possible to be the cause of non-germinating seeds of A. occidentalis.
 AR importance is rarely discussed with concern to ornamental species but quite few studies have been done and are still conducted for crop plants. We can learn a lot from them.

What after-ripening means?
“Once produced, dry seeds undergo an aging time period, called dry after-ripening, during which they lose primary dormancy and gradually acquire the capacity to germinate when exposed to favorable germination conditions”.


I am trying to ‘decipher’ a few articles at the moment. You can read with me and we’ll discussed them later.

“Primary seed dormancy: a temporally multilayered riddle waiting to be unlocked” (cool title, eh?)
https://academic.oup.com/jxb/article/68/4/857/2627445

“Seed after-ripening is a discrete developmental pathway associated with specific gene networks in Arabidopsis
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2254144/

**Note on Clintonia udensis
As announced, shipping of the moist packed seeds has been temporarily suspended. Low temperatures coupled with the postal delays at this time, make for a very bad combination.
The shipping will resume when the weather becomes more favorable. It will be a rare occasion to procure moist packed seeds of this beautiful white flowered Clintonia. Stay tuned.

 

Happy New Year to all!
I will start 2021 with more sowing details for small/fine seeds.

This post was inspired by an inquiry about Parnassia germination. Parnassia species have simple physiological dormancy and they should germinate well after a proper cold/moist stratification.

However, as said elsewhere, the devil is in the details and many things can go wrong. So, although they may seem child-like directions, please read this post and have a look at the pictures; maybe there is something you can change in your sowing method.

But first, your seeds may not germinate simply because they weren’t sown at the proper time.
If you plan to sow in January and beyond, please review this post: Practical considerations  for sowing in late fall-winter.
With the mild winters experienced in the last years, it is very improbable that sowing species with a requirement for cold/moist stratification (3+ months) in mid to late January will result in germination by spring (in many locations). Some may germinate since there is a fine line between 2 and 3 month requirements, but no one can say precisely which ones needs what.

Usually species that don’t germinate in the first spring may germinate in the second year, after more cold is provided by the second winter. Species like Gentiana, Saxifraga, Swertia, to name the first coming to mind, germinated for me in the second spring after sowing in the last years.

 Besides bad timing, I will bring to attention what else can go wrong with the small/fine seeds sowing & sowings

Sowings of small/fine seeds are among the hardest to manage over 2-3 years for a few reasons:
First, these seeds (supposedly) sown superficially, due to repeat watering, are easily exposed at top of the potting mix and they desiccate easily. I personally think this is the main reason for germination failures for small/fine seeds, either in the first or the second spring.

The second reason is the reverse, when the seeds are sown a bit too deep and they may start to ‘slide’ lower and lower in the pot during watering.

What can be done to prevent this?

Sowing technique speaking, I already gave tips on sowing fine seeds in this (updated) post: Kernera and a trick for sowing fine seeds.

But let’s exemplify the sowing process for Parnassia palustris. I will keep the pot in the garage for 1 week, and then place it outdoors. We’ll see the result in the spring. Again, I personally don’t sow cold germinators in January anymore (except Primulas which most do well with only 1-2 months of cold stratification and other species with GA3 treatment).

1. For outdoors sowings, use a slightly ‘heavy’ mix for sowing; it remains moist without huge variations dry/wet (like it happens with too much peat); simply mix your regular ‘sowing mix’ with any 3-1 planting mix or black earth (2 parts to 1 usually is good); 2. fill the pot and tap the mix well; 3. add the label and a fine layer of vermiculite (perlite) + few drops of water; 4. spread the seeds (they will stick to the moist verm.; 5. add another layer of vermiculite (perlite); 6. place the pot in a container filled with water and let stand until the pot fills ‘heavy’ (you may need to add more water).

After sowing and watering (always from the bottom) enclose the pots in a plastic/Ziploc bag or a plastic box with a clear lid (shoe boxes are perfect). Keep the sowing in the house/garage (1-3 weeks; small seeds imbibe quickly) and then place outdoors.

This is an older picture taken one year in early  spring

In the spring:

Open the bags/box gradually or just for a part of the day starting in early spring; monitor the humidity all the time.
Don’t forget to keep/move the sowings in a part shaded location in the spring! Even if the March/April sun seems weak to us, it is not the same for tiny, newly germinating seeds/seedlings. As the seedlings appear, remove the pots from the bag/box. Needless to say, be careful when watering very small seedlings!

If no germination happens by late May, add one more layer of mix (or fine gravel, grit) of on top the pots and move them in a shaded location (not enclosed in bags). This way you won’t have to worry about watering too often. I know that taking care of ‘empty’ pots during a whole season when so much else is happening, is hard but if you let them dry out completely at some point there is nothing to expect in the following spring.

Note: for alpine plants – add one more part of vermiculite to the sowing mix for good drainage, mix all well. For indoor sowings, just add vermiculite (or perlite) to the regular sowing mix (no black earth ot 3-1 mix).

Stay tuned for more new & ‘old’ seeds on Friday.

 

 

The latest species added to the Seeds List: Eryngium giganteum, better known as Miss Willmott’s ghost (this is the common name, NOT a cultivar name).
A spectacular species for a sunny, well drained garden spot, which doesn’t need much presentation. The seeds require a period of cold/moist stratification in order to germinate well.

With this in mind, and after exchanging emails with people who bought seeds this fall, I think it is a good occasion to draw attention to the Germination page  which I don’t think it is used to its full extent.
Take some time before sowing and browse the various links. There is a wealth of info about when and how to sow, all from personal, practical experience (beware copy/paste info you find on many websites, all ‘sounding’ the same).

For those in zone 6 and below, at this time I recommend to follow the advice from “Practical considerations for sowing in late fall –winter” (I changed the title from “sowing in the winter”).
True, it is not winter yet, but in colder climates the temperatures remain below 10C during the day now and the night temperatures often dip below 0C. In these conditions, if sown and put outside right away, the seeds cannot imbibe properly for the cold stratification to be effective.

Please have a recap on how to proceed for sowing at this time, including if you wish to provide cold/moist stratification in the fridge:
Practical considerations for sowing in the winter

One more thing, there are just a few moist packed seeds pck. left in the inventory at this point. Hurry up before it gets very cold!
Moist packed seeds

All species with hydrophilic seeds must be purchased and sowed at the right time in order to obtain good germination. Until next, here’s how Hepatica acutiloba seeds look when starting to germinate. We can already start dreaming about spring!

Hepatica acutiloba – white fragrant germination start, Nov. 2020

 

I don’t think I had the chance to show C. occidentalis when it flowered this spring; too many other things were happening in May.

Clematis occidentalis (Purple Clematis, Mountain clematis) is a species native to the US and Canada, usually growing in rocky woodlands, near creeks, talus slopes, tickets, often on calcareous substrates.
It is a variable species with 3 var. recognized by Flora of North America: var. occidentalis (Eastern NA), var. dissecta (confined to central Washington) and var. grosseserata (Western NA).

Plants from the Eastern N America belong to Clematis occidentalis var. occidentalis. It is rare that one can stumble upon them in the wild, being scarce in most locations; actually, it is considered an endangered species in a few US States.
It is a trailing or climbing vine on nearby plants/tree trunks, up to 2 m in length with 3-parted leaves, coarsely crenate and/or lobed. The bell shaped flowers are large (up to 6 cm long) and can be reddish-violet to pink-purple.

In the garden, for a natural look, let it scramble on a nearby plant (a shrub preferably) or even better, over stone walls and boulders. The large flowers appear in the spring (May in ON) and will surely attract attention!

Clematis occidentalis var. occidentalis – garden cultivated

Clematis occidentalis var. occidentalis; this is a trailing specimen which likes to scramble on the nearby plants; you can also tie up the stems on a small trellis/obelisk.

Also, the shrubby Clematis integrifolia seeds are back in stock! We missed having them to share in the last couple of years.
Clematis integrifolia – blue
Clematis integrifolia – pink group

More and more people are interested in growing various woodland native species this fall which is very encouraging.
Asarum canadense  seeds have been packed for the last 5-6 orders, so even if it is familiar plant I will make a short portrait; more on few other tough plants in the next post. The aim now is to dispatch the orders as fast as possible.

 There are not enough words for praising our native ginger and I am happy that this year there are more seeds to share. Not only is a beautiful species with fuzzy leaves starting to emerge in early spring and purple flowers, it also very useful as a groundcover in tough locations.

The pictures below were taken in my garden two year ago and this week. The plants grow in dry part/shade on a dry slope under a large spruce and were started in fiber pots 4 years ago, then planted in situ in the fall of their first year. Asarum seedlings are growing very fast.

Not only they cover an area where growing something else would be quite impossible, being a rhizomatous species also stabilizes the ground and prevent the soil from washing down. There is also Maianthemum stellatum, looking a bit ratty at this time and few other species.

The wild ginger is one of the easiest species to grow from the moist packed seeds category. You can even sow the seeds ‘in situ’.
I think would be useful to read a recap for: how to start the moist packed seeds and pay attention to the ‘space saving method’; it is the most easiest and practical way to grow a wide range of woodland native species in our climate with cold winters.
Also worth to read (again) about how to:  Grow Caulophyllum thalictroides from seeds – the easy way.

Thank you all and get sowing – You can do it!

 

 

Gillenia trifoliata (syn. Porteranthus trifoliatus), Bowman’s root, Indian physic

The Bowman’s root is yet another North American native species (S. Ontario and various US states) which deserves more attention. Offered by local garden centers on occasion, it is possible to pass unnoticed if not caught in its full splendor.
Some people are already taking advantage of the available seeds, so it is a good time to talk again about it.

The Bowman’s root is a cold hardy perennial which remains in a tight clump and will grow to 1.20+ m depending on the location; in rainy summers it may need staking. Any partly shaded spot in the garden would lighten up in June when Bowman’s root is flowering in profusion! The white/pinkish flowers with red calyces are distinct and barely disclose the plant affiliation with the Rose family (Rosaceae).

Gillenia trifoliata, syn. Porteranthus trifoliatus

Unfortunately, not all flowers are pollinated and usually the seeds are in limited quantity; the dry capsules mature and split open somewhere in September. Good news is that it is not a difficult species to germinate and grow from seeds.
The germination advice given in the shop: sown in late fall/early winter (cold/moist stratification).

Gillenia trifoliata garden grown with fall color

The deep green, healthy foliage will turn an exceptional bronze-reddish/or yellow color in the fall. What more can we ask from the Bowman’s root? 

Its common names derive from the former medicinal uses of the dry root (laxative, emetic), although they were more often referring to another species, Gillenia stipulata (also called American ipecac).
Other traditional medicinal uses of Gillenia root include: indigestion, colds, asthma and hepatitis. In principle, it was common in ‘cure-all’ elixirs sold by the traveling medicine salesmen in 19th-century America.

 

Parnassia glauca – fen grass of Parnassus, Bog star, American grass of Parnassus

September is always signaled by Parnassia glauca flowers. This species can be found growing in fens, wetland edges and floodplains, on calcareous substrates in NE US and SE Canada.
Despite the name and wild habitat preference, it can be easily grown in the garden in a full/part sun location in a moist enough location, which means, a spot where watering is done at least during very dry spells. Otherwise, during spring and fall there is usually plenty of rain to keep the soil saturated in many parts of Canada.

Parnassia glauca growing in the garden with good companions: Lobelia cardinalis, Iris versicolor, Viola nephrophylla, Sisyrinchium mucronatum

There are many other species of Parnassia in N America, Europe and Asia; the genus name is thought to refer to Mount Parnassus in Greece.
All have very interesting flowers at a closer look because of the 5 sterile stamens, which can have 3 or more branches that display yellow glands at their ends looking like drops of ‘nectar’. It is not nectar, just a way the plant tricks pollinators, which are also guided by the veins on the petals.

Parnassia glauca flower close-up; notice the sterile stamens with 3 branches

For growing Parnassia from seeds, the sowing is best done in late fall with the cold/moist stratification provided over the winter.
One can also try to cast the fine seeds ‘in situ’ in a moist area and hope for the best (cover lightly with sand/fine gravel to prevent them from being blown away).

One of the many new seeds offerings this year, Trillium luteum (Yellow trillium, wax trillium) is a species that belongs to the sessile group. A native of South Eastern US, it has beautifully marbled foliage and light yellow flowers with a pleasant lemony fragrance – which is also an easy character to distinguish it from T. sessile, which is very similar morphologically.

My favorite shade spot in the garden in May is where the yellow Trillium’s slender flowers are effortlessly mingling with Primula sieboldii, Paris quadrifolia and Epimedum stellulatum. This species doesn’t grow wild in Canada or Ontario, which makes it an even more precious plant to have and enjoy in our gardens.

By contrast with T. grandiflorum and T. erectum, the petals are long lasting and the plants seem to remain in flower a long time after pollination. Likewise, the fruits take a long time to ripen; the last ones were collected yesterday.
I was able to check the germination with the few seeds produced in the past years and the germination is reliable in the first spring (a slightly warm cycle followed by a cold period/winter). The first flowers should appear in the fourth year.

Trillium luteum moist packed seeds