So, you are thinking about growing plants from seeds - Welcome :) Please take time and read through this page Growing from seeds is a lot of fun!
There is no need to feel intimidated about growing plants from seeds. If you are a beginner, just start with a few species from the ‘easy plants to grow from seeds’ list. Another easy way to go is to sow anything as if in need of a cold-moist period (meaning, sow in late fall/early winter). After undergoing the necessary cold/warm cycles most seeds will germinate.
Updates on the germination requirements of various species are made on the Seeds Shop on a constant base; in our blog we often write about various germination trials. We cannot possible try all species, but we always rely on info available mostly through research articles on seed dormancy & germination.
I think it is important to emphasize again: the easy way for growing from seeds is to sow as soon as you get the seeds, take good care of the sowings and be patient! Keep all your pots for 2(3) years, or even more if possible. Try to read some of the articles provided below on this page, many of your questions will be answered.
A list with easy species to grow from seeds
A list with genera/species which are best sown in late summer/early fall
For growing carnivorous species, please refer to the International Carnivorous Plants Society – Here
All orchids and other mycorrhizal species (Chimaphila, Conopholis…) require special conditions for germination. Do not expect to sow them regularly in pots and obtain plants! Read more: Single delights – Moneses uniflora
I really recommend buying orchid seeds only to those with experience in growing such species!
Advice for handling and sowing seeds
Handling/sowing moist packed seeds
How to sow small & fine seeds
Practical consideration for sowing in late fall-winter
Sowing advice for springtime (timing your sowing)
Sowing warm germinating species under lights (indoors)
Pricking and Transplanting seedlings
Protecting the young seedlings over the winter
Germination treatments
Cold (moist) stratification: part 1, Seeds dormancy
Cold (moist) stratification: part 2, FAQ
Cold (moist) stratification: part 3, the practicals
Cold stratification methods – what to do in the spring: part 4 – to follow
Soaking and nicking the seeds
Hot water treatment and scarification
Updates for the hot water treatment
Practical consideration for preparing and using GA3
How to easily prepare a GA3 solution
Friday’s seeds with the GA3
From BotanyCa Warm & Cold games – A list with links to various blog posts about the germination requirements of various species (click on the links)
Growing Allium tricoccum from seeds
Growing Corydalis solida and allies from seeds
Growing Caulophyllum from seeds – the easy way: here
Hepatica seeds and germination
Growing Epimedium from seeds
Erythronium: Notes on Erythronium germination II
Berberidaceae seeds and embryos (Caulophyllum,…)
Growing Podophyllums from seeds, including Dysosma and Sinopodophyllum
Growing Roscoea (hardy gingers) from seeds
Fridays Seeds & germination requirements for Viburnum species
Here they go! (Paris quadrifolia and Trillium grandiflorum)
Friday’s seeds – or is it a fruit? Morina
Friday’s seeds – or is it a fruit? Triosteum
Growing Hydrastis canadensis from seeds
Growing Jeffersonia from seeds
Growing Helleborus from seeds
A late arrival – Lindera benzoin
Breaking the tradition – Medeola virginiana
Lost in translation – updates in germination requirements (Hydrophyllum, Aralia)
The thing about Sanguinaria canadensis
Pink sunglasses (Incarvillea)
You may want to know (Corydalis nobilis)
Mostly about Trillium grandiflorum, but also other moist stored species:
No – DOD’s
Check and skotomorphogeneticals
Dependable germinators
Here they go
American lotus – Nelumbo lutea
Green inspiration – Sowing in moss Gaultheria procumbens, Saxifraga cuneifolia
The beauty and the parthenocarpy – Acer triflorum
False assurance – Linnaea borealis
Syneilesis punishment -Syneilesis aconitifolia
Growing Syneilesis from seeds
New territory – Incarvillea delavayi
Growing species peonies from seeds (warm-cold cycle)
Growing ‘cold peonies’ from seeds – Paeonia tenuifolia and Paeonia brownii
Glaucidium palmatum germination 1
Glaucidium palmatum germination – final update, 2023
Starting notes on Aconitum species germination
Aconitum germination revised – 2019
Rubus chamaemorus – preliminary results
To be continued
Also, try to use the “Search” tab in the Blog to find all posts written about a certain species, by typing its name.
What it means…? – translations for terms used in our Seeds Shop
Warm germinators: are species that will germinate in a few days to a couple of weeks, when adequate moisture and temperatures of +/- 20-21˚C are provided. These are mostly annuals, species from warm climates, and also various perennials. In general (but not always), such the seeds require a few months of dry storage before being sown in order to germinate well (post-maturation). There are some species which will actually germinate better at lower temperatures, around 15 C.
We provide a list with such ‘easy to germinate’ perennials for those who want immediate results and beginners.
Moist-cold stratification: this is the most common requirement for germination of many temperate species. In nature, such seeds would germinate in the spring after passing through the winter cold. When we sow in a controlled environment, most of these seeds will germinate after being exposed to 1-3 months of cold-moist storage. For many species, a short period of cold-moist stratification (1 month) even if not absolutely necessary, will improve the uniformity of germination. So, it is always a safe way to start any seeds.
Warm-moist stratification: is needed as a first stratification cycle by most temperate species that are flowering early in the spring and form their seeds by early summer (like Sanguinaria, Erythronium, Trillium…actually, most of the species with recalcitrant seeds fall in this category). Some Lilium and Paeonia species also need first a warm-moist period to form a bulbil/rootlet. Other species need first a warm-moist period for the development of an immature embryo (Hepatica and various other Ranunculaceae).
Multiple cycles of warm-cold stratifications: are needed by species that have combined dormancy ‘problems’, which may include immature embryos, very hard seed or fruit coats; most often there is a combination of various types of dormancy.
For the hobby gardener that lives in a temperate region, the best and easier way is to sow these species as soon as they are received/or at the recommended time, place the pots in a safe spot outside, water regularly during the warm season, and… be patient! Some species will germinate in the first year, but there are cases when germination will occur in the second or even the third year. Recommendations for precise lengths of time needed for each warm-cold cycle cannot be given in fact, because we can have huge variations depending on the seeds source, mother-plants locations, and various other factors that may influence the dormancy breaking.
Sowing and growing plants from seeds cannot be treated like other very precise (boring) activities.
Moist storage: is not actually a treatment for germination, but a requirement by various species which have what’s called hydrophilic seeds, which means they do not tolerate dry storage, at least not for long periods of time. So, they either have to be sown after collecting, or kept moist until sowing. The moist storage requirement can also be coupled with other treatments.
There are many lists of species that requires moist storage but not everyone agrees 100% on them. We have tried from the beginning to provide moist storage for the most commonly accepted species. The moist-packed seeds category is quite extensive by now! and there are many writings on our blog about these species.
Just a bit more about sowing
Everyone hooked on growing plants from seeds develops its personal strategy and methods of sowing. Besides good seeds ;) I will just note on:
Sowing mixes – nowadays there is a huge variety of them depending on the country, region, including some with added mycorrhizal inoculums, which may help in some cases. Most of them have too much peat in the composition; especially in Canada we abuse our peat deposits a lot. Too much peat is bad because it makes it very hard to manage the variations of humidity, especially in small pots (that is, they either stay too wet or they get too dry). In fact, to any commercial sowing mix I add vermiculite nowadays.
Temperature – of course the temperature will greatly influence germination. When we sow outdoors there is no need to worry about it because you can’t control it. If you sow indoors, most ‘warm germinators’ do very well in an average home environment. Most species with dormant seeds tend to germinate better at lower temperatures (like in the spring). These are best kept after sowing in a colder space (a hallway, garage, spare fridge, if outside is not possible) and brought under lights only after they germinated, if in need to speed up the germination. Equally important and hard to reproduce in a regular home (or in the fridge), are the daily fluctuations in temperatures.
Light – again for outdoors sowing, all you can do is take care to shade the newly germinated seedlings and then gradually provide more light. Indoors it is hard to manage; a window sill that does not get too hot at noon can be used for starting early some seeds. The best way is to group the species depending on their germination requirements and to time the sowing in such a way that the ‘warm germinators’ grown under lights can be brought outside before getting too elongated. Generally speaking, for those in the Northern Hemisphere, a greenhouse or a light-stand are very useful.
Water – always water the pots from the bottom by placing them in a tray and allow the water from the tray to wet the contents by capillary action. It is very easy to kill newly germinated seedlings just by watering in a hurry from the top (been there many times).
There are situations when despite doing everything ‘perfectly’ some seeds will stubbornly refuse to germinate. It is always best to keep the pots for at least 1-2+ years (outside in the garden) and check on them once in a while. Sometimes very nice surprises happen…
And very important – Good luck and have fun!






