Addendum to (not)pricking out seedlings

Our seeds are germinating. We proudly look forward to the next stage, that of pricking out or transplanting the seedlings. This subject was previously discussed (and I just updated both previous posts: Germination page).
Pricking-transplanting seedlings
Transplanting seedlings #2
However, we have to keep in mind that not all seedlings are happily waiting for this moment! Regardless when the seeds are germinating, in early spring indoors or late spring outdoors, I want to emphasize that various species are actually resenting being transplanted in the first year after sowing.

Seedlings of those species are best grown in the same pot for 1-2(3) years.

Transplanting them is best done only during their dormant stage (otherwise, most will go dormant right away).

In case the sowing pot is too small for how many seeds have germinated, let them grow up a bit, and then  gently ‘transplant’ the whole pot into a larger one.

Most of these species are monocots (those where you see ‘grass-like’ leaves); other genera besides the ones below should be treated the same. Another tell sign that seedlings may resent pricking out in the first season: generally speaking, species from the bulbs/tubers/rhizomes category.

Genera/Species that resent being pricked out in the first season, from my own experienced.

Allium, Corydalis, Claytonia
Fritillaria, Crocus, Galanthus
Erythronium, most Lilium species
Ornithogalum, Tulipa, Zigadenus, Veratrum
Arum, Arisaema
Clintonia, Medeola, Trilliums, Uvularia
Streptopus, Prosartes, Disporum
I also grew in the sowing pot Sanguinaria and Jeffersonia for 2 years
Podophyllum peltatum and other Podophyllum species
Roscoea, Glaucidium palmatum
*Species from the Fabaceae family (legumes)

Also, Paeonia species – I do not know what other people are doing, I’ve always grown the peonies in the same pot for 2(3) years (or if they were transplanted young, it was done in the dormant stage).

What should we do with these seedlings if not transplanting?
Keep them growing well in the sowing pot, meaning: water as often as needed, apply a light fertilizer once in a while, provide good light conditions.

The better looking the foliage, the more developed the underground system will be (bulbs, tubers or rhizomes). On longer terms, this means faster growing plants and later faster flowering – which is our main objective! 

Genera/species with a short growing period

Some of the listed species are naturally having a very short growing season of 3-4 months, just like the mature plants in the garden: Claytonia, Corydalis, Erythronium, Crocus, Galanthus, Roscoea, Tulipa (and other like-species). It is even more important to maximize the seedlings growth!

 At the point the seedlings go dormant, which is easily noticed because the leaves will start withering, keep the pots on the dry side (a box can be used again to keep them from drying out excessively during the summer/fall). Protect the pots over the winter and by next spring repeat the process. Again, in case of overcrowding, the tiny bulbs/tubers can be transplanted into larger pots when fully dormant.
Growing Corydalis and allies from seeds
Growing Roscoea from seeds
Growing Glaucidium palmatum from seeds
Growing Podophyllum from seeds

*Species from the Fabaceae family (legumes)

It is a well known fact that these species resent transplanting. Some are best sown directly in the garden in late fall.

The reason for this is that they all form a very long taproot, a trait that can be noticed even in the young seedlings. The fact that they require various mycorrhizal fungi for their growth is secondary to the taproot problem.

I mostly tried germinating such species with the Hot water treatment (HWT), sown the germinated seeds only 2-3/pot and later planted them as a whole in the garden as soon as the weather allowed. Scarification of the seeds can of course be used instead of the HWT treatment.
If you really need to prick out the seedlings, do it when they are very young/small.

For Hedysarum, Lupinus, Thermopsis and Baptisia this works well.

I never had much success with Astragalus and Oxytropis species, at least not on long term, but the garden conditions are to blame, not the process of handling the seedlings. Sowing such species in the fall outdoors and letting the weather do the whole work for you, it is also an option. Lathyrus vernus, Lupinus species usually germinate well after ground sowing (they also self-seed around) and the seedlings can be moved to the desired place when young.

This being said, I just started my indoor sowing with a few Roscoeas species. I can provide better care for them in February-April than later when the spring garden mayhem starts. Mid to late February is a great time to start indoors not only Roscoea and Arisaema, but also various other warm germinators (click for: easy to germinate and grow species).
Time will fly watching the germination and taking care of the seedlings. When spring arrives, they will be large enough for outdoor acclimation.