Two days ago I collected the first seeds of Corydalis malkensis and Corydalis paczoskii.
There is always a strange excitement when collecting Corydalis seeds. Maybe because of their ephemeral nature; the seeds are the assurance that they will not only flower again next spring but also multiply.

Corydalis solida seeds are also starting to mature. In the featured image we have a new example for the Corydalis ‘Wildheart mix’. Redoing the bed in the fall I thought I’ll move a couple of malkensis by themselves but it seems deep down there was already the purple C. solida in place. Serendipity gives best results in the garden 😊

 There are also capsules formed on Corydalis caucasica. Otherwise, it is not a great seeds season comparing to last year.  The spring came very slow and remained too cold for long resulting in a late emergence of the bumblebees.

Those new to Corydalis, or who have never grown them from seeds, please review the following posts with plenty of pictures and info on how to grow them from seeds. Once you have Corydalis in the garden you will never want to be without them!
Updates referring to some Corydalis species shown in a post below for those who have questions: I must have done something wrong with the C. ambigua potted seedlings since they are a no-show; C. vittae seedlings are alive though and the same goes for C. turtschaninovii, it should even produce a few flowers shortly.

Growing Corydalis from seeds (2021)

Corydalis Easter edition (2022)

Corydalis 2023

The gap of time until Hepatica seeds will mature will be too large this year in order to offer them together like last year.
There is also the spectre of another Canada Post strike at the end of May!… What and when will happen seeds wise, if possible, will be announced.

Most years the Sharp-lobed leaf Hepatica, Hepatica acutiloba, blooms 1 week ahead of H. americana and right now the flowering is almost done (depending on the region).
So, we will first have a recap about this lovely wildflower with related links explaining how to identify it, where it grows, how to grow it from seeds, plus showing many images of flowering plants and seedlings.

I only have new to show a pretty semidouble pink form, which seems to be partially maiden as well (not with many functional anthers).

A reminder that our beloved Hepatica species have their own page that gets updated once in a while:

Hepatica read about North American Hepatica species, seeds and germination, transplanting the seedlings….

Notes on Hepatica acutiloba (2018) – page

Other useful posts related with Hepatica acutiloba

Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix explained  (2019)

Hepatica acutiloba and a checklist (2020)

Getting ready for Hepatica acutiloba (2022)

Happy Easter to all celebrating, with a message of peace, joy, hope and happiness!

Due to the cold weather of this spring, the flowering is delayed or just beginning for various plants, which otherwise would be in full bloom at this time. I will use older pictures in the gallery, to show a few species that are in flower right now in SW Ontario. Various Hepatica are in flower or still in bud, depending on the locations and I just noticed the first open flowers of Sanguinaria canadensis. It is starting to look like spring!

 

 

While they never rose to the fame and adoration they are held in Europe, the snowdrops are undeniably the spring harbingers at least in certain Canadian regions.

This could be blamed on the scarcity of offerings, both as bulbs and live plants.
There is nothing more exciting than to witness them piercing through the snow and leaves and nothing more delightful than a snowdrop gently swaying under the sunshine of an early spring day. More snowdrops musing, including how to try and propagate them from seeds in last year post: Onward to 2024!

Springing into the spring 😊 there are always questions about seeds of spring flowering plants: Corydalis, Hepatica and so on.
As always, I can only remind to all that when it comes to seeds, we are at nature’s mercy.

No one can predict what will flower well,  set seeds and also be caught at the right moment!
Given our long and snowy winter and late spring start, I approximate various such seeds to be available, if possible, somewhere in June (see the Subscribe to the blog button, on various pages).

With the upcoming spring, there is always a new seeds inventory to be done, quite a few items are out of stock anyways and many garden tasks awaiting.

Therefore, starting April orders will not be accepted, until further notice. Those in need of certain ‘warm germinating’ species, please hurry up!

Armeria alpina – March 7, 2025

Below you will find an updated post from March 12, 2020 with what I consider important information regarding the timing of sowing seeds of perennial plants and shrubs.

It also looks like the beginning of the winter’s end this early March, at least in parts of Ontario. Like always, with the apparition of the first spring flowers, there comes the impulse of buying seeds, especially from the less experienced gardeners. For various species it is a good time; however, many perennials  require a cold/moist stratification period of variable lengths.

I can only recommend the best practices, the rest is up to you….At the end of the article, pictures taken to keep records (March 7, 2024). On sunny areas where the snow is receding, the first snowdrops, the top of the rockery and various foliage are making an appearance, while on shaded sides a ‘healthy’ 50 cm snow still persists, a lot more than in 2020.

With the first snowdrops in bloom spring is undeniably in the air (early March 2020). It is an exciting time with renewed hope and we all think about new plants to add in the garden. Some people plan well ahead about what to grow from seeds, but others maybe purchase seeds and plants on the impulse of the moment. Then, there are always seeds arriving late from seeds exchanges.

Because all the latest orders had in common a combination of species, warm and cold germinators, I feel obliged to repeat how to proceed at this time in order to obtain the best results with minimum effort. Good timing for sowing is important!

For those in the Northern Hemisphere

Species that are indicated to germinate at warm (15-20C) can be sown right away if you use indoor lighting for growing seedlings or later in April/early May (depending on the location) if you intend to keep the pots outdoor.

*Species indicated to have double dormancy that require first a slightly warm cycle, followed by a cold one in order to germinate (Hydrophyllum, Euonymus, Actaea…) – should be sown later, in the summer. Most Peonies are also in this category: sowing in late June to August gives them more than enough time to develop the roots until late fall. Same goes for two stage warm germinating Lilium species (L. michiganense, L. monadelphum…).

Most species from Fabaceae family can be treated with the hot water treatment and considered ‘warm germinators’. Last year tests gave excellent results (Hedysarum, Oxytropis, Astragalus, Baptisia, Thermopsis, Lupinus*). If not, they should be sown in late fall.

Species that can be sowed ‘in situ’ & indicated as ‘warm germinators’ (Papaver, Erinus, various Campanula, Capnoides, Arisaema tryphyllum, some Viola spp., to mention just a few) – wait until April/early May and cast the seeds in place, incorporating lightly (most such seeds are fine and need light to germinate), keep the area moist and if there are too many critters around consider placing a mesh on top of the sowing location.

Species indicated as: sow in the fall or with cold/moist stratification – I advise you to keep the seeds packets in the fridge until fall, and then proceed with sowing at the right time (in pots or ‘in situ’).

You can of course try to provide cold/moist stratification in the fridge, but don’t expect the same good results; it doesn’t work very well for all species. Also, you may end up with seeds germinating in June/July and with young seedlings by late fall – too young to withstanding the winter cold.

 Moist packed seeds: are only sold spring – summer to late fall. The exception are the two years germinators  like Caulophyllum and Medeola; when stock supply and temperatures allow sometimes such seeds are offered in late spring. Sow them outdoors.

Cypripedium and other orchids and mycorrhizals: if not using ‘in vitro’ equipment, as discussed already, there is a slight chance that by incorporating the seeds in the garden, usually in late fall, close to where other orchids thrive, to be successful. Note the ‘slight chance’.

As of March 7, 2025

In an ideal world, the mail would function well and small letters would arrive in a couple of weeks from any corner of the world. Unfortunately, we do not live in such a world, and it has become the rule that seeds from far away regions arrive with great delays.

Despite this, I am always very grateful to receive such seeds, especially when wild-collected with great effort!

To the point: we have a great opportunity to try and grow two Pulsatilla species of the Far East regions:
Pulsatilla tatewakii from Sakhalin

and the rarely cultivated Pulsatilla taraoi from Kuril Islands.
I do not have pictures with the flowers (I am sure everyone would jump to purchase seeds!). Links with photos and short descriptions of these wonderful, very cold hardy Pulsatillas can be found on the products page (click on the names).

About sowing and germination:

For most Pulsatilla species, the seeds germinate best when sown fresh; some require a moist/cold stratification period. However, sometimes we cannot abide by the rules and have to improvise.
Some species also germinate well after a GA3 treatment.
I had the occasion to try Pulsatilla tatewakii a few years ago and the seeds germinated well with GA3 treatment. I do not know if Pulsatilla taraoi would do the same; it is so rare in cultivation that not much info is available.

In any case, it is best to sow both species asap with or without GA3. Sow and keep the pot in a cool location indoors (+/- 15C). If they do not germinate  indoors, continue to keep the pot moist throughout the season outdoors, and let it overwinter outdoors; hopefully they will germinate in the spring of 2026 after a cold/moist stratification.
Of course, stratification in moist towels in the fridge is also an option; however, this method is not working well for many species of the Ranunculaceae family.

First, let’s try them with GA3 (not sold on this website!):
Recap on how to easily prepare a GA3 solution.

Reminder: if new to this website, please have a look at the Shipping & Delivery pagefor all local orders: min 2 pck. of seeds/order; international orders – min. 4 pck./order.
I sowed for testing a few seeds yesterday (with GA3 treatment); updates when/if they germinate.

Few easy warm germinating species started indoors; taken outdoors in April for acclimation: Draba, Bukiniczia and various Campanula species

Almost every year in February I write a post about starting to sow various species that will germinate at room temperature, indoors under lights.

For those in a cold climate where spring arrives late, the benefits of starting these species somewhere around mid-February to March are easy to understand. Not only we gain at least 2-3 months for their growth cycle, we can also dedicate the early spring for other important garden tasks.

For this year, a repeat post from previous writings, with few changes, updates and recap of the seeds treatment that can be applied for the warm germinating species. Almost all regions in Canada are ‘under’ piles of snow right now; sowing few seeds sounds very attractive!

Prepare small pots, the sowing mix, seeds of ‘warm germinating’ species, if necessary read a bit more and get started!

When sowing indoors it is best to to wash your pots to avoid bringing indoors eggs of various insects which can remain attached to pots, and who knows what else. It is enough that we have to deal with the fungus gnats, which are almost impossible to avoid indoors.

For those who don’t like to go back and read older postings or the Germination page ;) I recommend to amend any sowing mix you purchase with vermiculite (even my favourites brands, Fafard and Promix, contain too much peat). For more ‘pretentious’ species I even add perlite to the mix to obtain a ‘stellar’ drainage.

A varied array of indoor lighting is available for all budgets. From just a simple lamp sufficient to cover 4-6 small pots kept on a table/desk corner, to large lighting stands, there are plenty options to choose from. Plants wise, I repeated many times, start with easy to germinate and grow species before trying others more challenging.
An updated list of warm germinating species usually offered in the Seeds List: Ready, start, go 2023!

From the species marked as ‘warm germinators’, some will germinate easily after sowing in a few days to few weeks time. For others, we have to apply various treatments before sowing:
Acid gibberellic treatment – an easy way to prepare a solution: Here
Hot water treatment for species with hard seedcoats: Here
Soaking and nicking the seeds, as well for hard seedcoats: Here
More advice for sowing small/fine seeds: Here

In the gallery below, timelines for Gentiana asclepiadea started in February 2023 with GA3; by Nov. the grown-up seedlings were already planted in the ground, and in 2024 one of the seedlings even produced a few flowers!

While the purpose of this early start is to extend the growing time in our cold climate, where otherwise sowing directly outdoors is not possible sooner than mid-April (or May), it is also a great winter pastime when crazy gardeners crave the feel and smell of the potting soil and fresh growth!
Not all our seedlings will survive (and it’s a good thing!). But most will grow and thrive, and we’ll be proud of them, even if they are very easy from seeds, like Draba, Gypsophila, Silene, Papaver species for example, to mention just a few.

Papaver macrostomum ‘Black Magic’

From various species started in February last year (2024), Potentilla porphyrantha, Salvia daghestanica, Phyteuma orbiculare, Campanula glomerata and Nepeta multifida were already planted in the ground by late summer!

Papaver macrostomum ‘Black Magic’ even flowered – what else to expect from an annual Papaver :) Even perennial poppies may flower in the first season when started early.

Ready to start sowing?


*For those who do not like to sow indoors, it is perfectly fine to sow all the ‘warm germinators’ outdoors when the temperatures allow according with your locality (April-May).

 

Two years ago, in a cold January day I was musing about various members of the bellflower family, wishing to grow more of them in my garden: Forward with Campanulaceae!.

I like this genus which includes so many good species for the rockeries and not only. There is hardly a place, from high mountains to the prairies and woodland edges, without a Campanula and/or its relatives. Most species are very showy and in most cases easy to grow from seeds with the added bonus that they flower rather fast when started from seeds.

Campanula cochleariifolia, Fairy’s Thimble

It is time for a check on my progress.

Last summer I had Campanula cochleariifolia flowering for the first time (finally, after two other Campanula I grew from seedex seeds under this name proved out to be forms of C. rotundifolia!)

Speaking of Campanula rotundifolia, a rather large form of seeds collected from Killarney area, also flowered abundantly and for a very long time. Those interested in this topic can review the subject here:  Campanula rotundifolia complex.

It is a good moment to emphasize again that when you sow various Campanula and Phyteuma species from any seed exchange – they are often misnamed.
After your seedlings flower, double check the foliage/leaves/time of flowering, to see if the name you wrote on the label is true!!!

Also, the very interesting Campanula persicifolia ‘Nitida Alba’, which required some detective work to finding its right name, flowered in the rockery (Campanula persicifolia ‘Nitida Alba’ &CP).

Plus, Campanula bellidifolia put up a real show, standing up to its name!

Physoplexis comosa seedlings (right)

The lost Campanula biebersteiniana was resown (the slugs eat it down to the root two years ago) and seedlings were planted in the summer. There are also new seedlings planted of Campanula dasyantha.

Other exciting 2-years old seedlings are those of Physoplexis comosa (Tufted horned campion)! I don’t think any of them will flower this summer but I will be happy just to have them surviving this cold winter.

I will be awaiting flowering this summer from the grown up  plants of Campanula glomerata, Phyteuma orbiculare and Campanula alliariifolia.

And of course new species will be sown: Phyteuma confusum and Campanula alpina ssp. alpina also offered in the Seeds List; plus Campanula abietina.

All in all, quite a good progress with the Campanulaceae 😊 Perseverance is the key.

 

Soldanella pusilla seeds; 1 mm grid

This year, I sowed very late in January a few species. I have a feeling that we will have enough time this winter to provide the cold period in our region.

Among the sowings, there is also the lovely Dwarf snowbell, Soldanella pusilla, that another source suggests could be a warm germinating species. The same species can have different patterns of germination depending of the mother-plant origin.
So, it is time for a little test: I sown two pots, one will receive cold/moist stratification outdoors, one will remain in a cooler location in the house.
Experimenting with sowing is another fun thing to do in the dead of winter 😊

Not many people are familiar with the lovely Dwarf snowbell. I was lucky to see it flowering up the mountain a few times, but last summer it was the first time I got the chance to collect a decent quantity of seeds.

Soldanella pusilla with Ranunculus crenatus

Soldanella pusilla it is a diminutive plant that grows at alpine level from the C&E Alps, Apennines, Rhodope to the Carpathians Mts.
The solitary, large, reddish-violet fringed flowers, appear right after the snowmelt, most often in large numbers in certain locations (meaning somewhere in July at alpine level).
So, it is by great chance to go up the mountain exactly to find it flowering, in company of other acid substrate inhabitants like: Primula minima, Ranunculus crenatus, Geum reptans, Campanula alpina…

Seeds wise, as well, if you do not know precise growing locations, by summertime, the very small rosettes remain quite invisible among the high alpine vegetation. Plus, the seeds setting and maturation is highly dependent on the weather.

In contrast to other Soldanella species, S. pusilla will often grow in open places, in full sun to part-shaded locations. By late summer the little, leathery rosettes get a bit of protection from the nearby vegetation. Usually the rosettes of leaves are forming colonies, which means it self-seeds around and maybe also propagates vegetatively.

Besides an acidic substrate (not too difficult to provide by adding a mixture of peat and sand) the most difficult to maintain in a hot, dry climate would be the moisture. Our humid summers also pose problems for high alpine species, but it is worth giving it a try!

I am able to grow now a couple of other Soldanellas, Ramonda myconi and Saxifraga cuneifolia by using a tall container, where the large volume of soil maintains a rather constant humidity even during high summer. Plus, I can monitor the slug attack attempts much easier.
If I will be successful with germination and seedlings growing, that’s how I intend to cultivate the Dwarf Snowbell as well (if in need of inspiration).

Those with a moist nook in the rockery, especially in the provinces with not so hot & humid summers, may have better chances to establish it. Do not miss the chance to try the Dwarf Snowbell; it will never be a regular offering on BotanyCa Seed List!

Paeonia obovata seedlings (seeds sown in early fall 2023)

The first post of the new year, talking about the first, prematurely ‘born’ seedlings of 2025.
Paeonia obovata (seeds sown in 2023) has started to grow in the garage (I took various outdoor pots in the garage in late December: Cold alert). It is not an ideal situation but they cannot be taken back outdoors now.

More correctly to say, these are the ‘first shoots’ instead of ‘seedlings’ because as we know, most Paeonia species are hypogeal germinators.

Meaning, the rootlets grow ‘quietly’ first during a +/- warm period (you won’t see anything above the pot/ground) and in the next season (after a cold period/winter) the shoots start growing. So, we don’t have a ‘complete’ germination (roots and shoots) in one year: Growing peonies from seeds.

In this case, the growth of the rootlets didn’t happen in the first ‘warm’ period of fall 2023 as expected.
This can be from various reasons: temp. too high or to low in late summer/fall, not long enough warm period; maybe I left the pot too dry, and who knows what else… Theoretically, the shoots should have started to grow in the spring of 2024. Seeds of Paeonia veitchii-white form and Paeonia mascula ssp. arietina, sown at the same time in 2023, should also start to germinate this year.

Paeonia japonica seedlings, April 2018

Nothing is very ‘precise’ when it comes to seeds germination. We know this very well.

What else can be learned is that for most species peonies shoots start growing at relatively low temperatures (around 8C in my garage). If not in the garage, the growth would have started outdoors in very early spring.

I first noticed this in 2018, when I found the first shoots of Paeonia japonica while opening the cold frame in early April. Worth mentioning that it was a late spring and all pots were slightly frozen at the top at the time.

Paeonia japonica, April 2023

This keeps in line with the very early emergence of the majority mature peonies in the garden. Most often they appear in late March-early April, when only snowdrops, some Corydalis Crocus and few Hepatica may be flowering. The beautiful red- or purple-colored early shoots will always make us worry when late frosts are expected. Luckily, they always prove to be very cold hardy!

Looking back at the many plants I’ve grown from seeds over the years, the peonies have been among the most satisfying. Maybe on the same place with the hellebores and Epimediums.
They are all not only gorgeous, but resilient, long-lived perennials that require very little care over the years. We are rewarded with beautiful foliage from early spring to fall (winter), amazing flowering plus attractive fruits in case of peonies!

It is understandable why I decided to sow more seeds; I only have a late flowering, dwarf form of P. obovata, shown in the feature image. The more the better!

A few days and nights with extremely low temperatures are announced for SW Ontario. For other regions – please check your weather forecast.

Galanthus ‘Spindlestone Surprise’

If you still have unprotected/or with little protection pots with summer & early fall sowings (Corydalis, Hepatica, Claytonia, Paeonia, Asarum, Trillium…) hurry up to add blankets on top of them; or shovel snow on top of them if you are lucky to have enough of it.
The same goes for young seedlings that are still in pots.

It is a good thing I checked my boxes: Galanthus ‘Spindlestone Surprise’ is already above the mix and Adonis ramosa (seedlings) buds are also very advanced.

I cannot show the inside of the peonies pots but some seeds have grown-up roots for sure.

If you only have a few pots – it is much easier to bring them inside in a cool location for a few days (unheated garage for example).

 

Now, about the Campanula persicifolia ‘Nitida Alba’

Campanula persicifolia ‘Nitida Alba’

When we grow plants from seeds, we want to know the correct name of the plants we are growing. Otherwise, what is the purpose of the labels we stick in the ground and around the rockery?

There is a lot of confusion about the name of this dwarf form of the peach- leaved bellflower.
I checked various databases and reliable sources to be sure what we are talking about. Plus, I grew it from seeds just to be able to see it ‘in the real’ and get a better idea of what it may be.

It is a very peculiar plant, with very rigid (stiff) stems and dark green leaves, typical shape wise of C. persicifolia. The flowers differ from those of the typical C. persicifolia by being larger and upward facing, and not all seem to have functional anthers. As a result, only a couple of flowers have formed capsules with seeds.

This little Campanula is offered under different names – all wrong! – by various companies selling seeds /or plants, some very well known. You may buy seeds or plants as: Campanula nitida alba, C. persicifolia f. nitida and ssp. nitida, Campanula persicifolia var. planiflora (with syn. C. persicifolia var. nitida) and C. nitida for a blue flower form.

Campanulastrum americanum flowers

All synonyms’ names, including var. and subspecies published at all times for C. persicifolia are listed here: https://wfoplantlist.org/taxon/wfo-0000828132-2024-06?page=1
We cannot found any form, variety or ssp. nitida published under C. persicifolia, at any time. The same goes for var. planiflora. They simply don’t exist!

Even worse, Campanula nitida is a synonym name for Campanulastrum americanum!!! You know – our native, biennial, tall plant, with particular long styled- flowers!

Lack of knowledge of botanical nomenclature, lack of attention, wrong spelling of the species name versus cultivar names…all these have contributed in time to the propagation of wrong names for this little Campanula.

It is impossible to track back cultivar names, but my opinion is that that this dwarf plant showed up as a mutation from C. persicifolia ssp. sessiliflora ‘Alba’.  The subspecies sessiliflora has the same upward, sessile flowers: https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/120442/campanula-persicifolia-subsp-sessiliflora-alba/details

It doesn’t matter where it comes from, most important is to use a proper name for it.
I’ve found a single specialty nursery from Austria, where the name it is written properly: https://www.sarastro-stauden.com/shop/winterharte-stauden/campanula-glockenblume/campanula-persicifolia-nitida-alba/

Campanula persicifolia ‘Nitida Alba’ is an interesting dwarf bellflower that will make a good piece of conversation for your rockery. Plus, it is easily grown from seeds (warm germinator) and starts to flower in the second year. Go for it!

And don’t forget to write the proper name on your label, especially if you are sharing seeds later!