Few easy warm germinating species started indoors; taken outdoors in April for acclimation: Draba, Bukiniczia and various Campanula species

Almost every year in February I write a post about starting to sow various species that will germinate at room temperature, indoors under lights.

For those in a cold climate where spring arrives late, the benefits of starting these species somewhere around mid-February to March are easy to understand. Not only we gain at least 2-3 months for their growth cycle, we can also dedicate the early spring for other important garden tasks.

For this year, a repeat post from previous writings, with few changes, updates and recap of the seeds treatment that can be applied for the warm germinating species. Almost all regions in Canada are ‘under’ piles of snow right now; sowing few seeds sounds very attractive!

Prepare small pots, the sowing mix, seeds of ‘warm germinating’ species, if necessary read a bit more and get started!

When sowing indoors it is best to to wash your pots to avoid bringing indoors eggs of various insects which can remain attached to pots, and who knows what else. It is enough that we have to deal with the fungus gnats, which are almost impossible to avoid indoors.

For those who don’t like to go back and read older postings or the Germination page ;) I recommend to amend any sowing mix you purchase with vermiculite (even my favourites brands, Fafard and Promix, contain too much peat). For more ‘pretentious’ species I even add perlite to the mix to obtain a ‘stellar’ drainage.

A varied array of indoor lighting is available for all budgets. From just a simple lamp sufficient to cover 4-6 small pots kept on a table/desk corner, to large lighting stands, there are plenty options to choose from. Plants wise, I repeated many times, start with easy to germinate and grow species before trying others more challenging.
An updated list of warm germinating species usually offered in the Seeds List: Ready, start, go 2023!

From the species marked as ‘warm germinators’, some will germinate easily after sowing in a few days to few weeks time. For others, we have to apply various treatments before sowing:
Acid gibberellic treatment – an easy way to prepare a solution: Here
Hot water treatment for species with hard seedcoats: Here
Soaking and nicking the seeds, as well for hard seedcoats: Here
More advice for sowing small/fine seeds: Here

In the gallery below, timelines for Gentiana asclepiadea started in February 2023 with GA3; by Nov. the grown-up seedlings were already planted in the ground, and in 2024 one of the seedlings even produced a few flowers!

While the purpose of this early start is to extend the growing time in our cold climate, where otherwise sowing directly outdoors is not possible sooner than mid-April (or May), it is also a great winter pastime when crazy gardeners crave the feel and smell of the potting soil and fresh growth!
Not all our seedlings will survive (and it’s a good thing!). But most will grow and thrive, and we’ll be proud of them, even if they are very easy from seeds, like Draba, Gypsophila, Silene, Papaver species for example, to mention just a few.

Papaver macrostomum ‘Black Magic’

From various species started in February last year (2024), Potentilla porphyrantha, Salvia daghestanica, Phyteuma orbiculare, Campanula glomerata and Nepeta multifida were already planted in the ground by late summer!

Papaver macrostomum ‘Black Magic’ even flowered – what else to expect from an annual Papaver :) Even perennial poppies may flower in the first season when started early.

Ready to start sowing?


*For those who do not like to sow indoors, it is perfectly fine to sow all the ‘warm germinators’ outdoors when the temperatures allow according with your locality (April-May).

 

Two years ago, in a cold January day I was musing about various members of the bellflower family, wishing to grow more of them in my garden: Forward with Campanulaceae!.

I like this genus which includes so many good species for the rockeries and not only. There is hardly a place, from high mountains to the prairies and woodland edges, without a Campanula and/or its relatives. Most species are very showy and in most cases easy to grow from seeds with the added bonus that they flower rather fast when started from seeds.

Campanula cochleariifolia, Fairy’s Thimble

It is time for a check on my progress.

Last summer I had Campanula cochleariifolia flowering for the first time (finally, after two other Campanula I grew from seedex seeds under this name proved out to be forms of C. rotundifolia!)

Speaking of Campanula rotundifolia, a rather large form of seeds collected from Killarney area, also flowered abundantly and for a very long time. Those interested in this topic can review the subject here:  Campanula rotundifolia complex.

It is a good moment to emphasize again that when you sow various Campanula and Phyteuma species from any seed exchange – they are often misnamed.
After your seedlings flower, double check the foliage/leaves/time of flowering, to see if the name you wrote on the label is true!!!

Also, the very interesting Campanula persicifolia ‘Nitida Alba’, which required some detective work to finding its right name, flowered in the rockery (Campanula persicifolia ‘Nitida Alba’ &CP).

Plus, Campanula bellidifolia put up a real show, standing up to its name!

Physoplexis comosa seedlings (right)

The lost Campanula biebersteiniana was resown (the slugs eat it down to the root two years ago) and seedlings were planted in the summer. There are also new seedlings planted of Campanula dasyantha.

Other exciting 2-years old seedlings are those of Physoplexis comosa (Tufted horned campion)! I don’t think any of them will flower this summer but I will be happy just to have them surviving this cold winter.

I will be awaiting flowering this summer from the grown up  plants of Campanula glomerata, Phyteuma orbiculare and Campanula alliariifolia.

And of course new species will be sown: Phyteuma confusum and Campanula alpina ssp. alpina also offered in the Seeds List; plus Campanula abietina.

All in all, quite a good progress with the Campanulaceae 😊 Perseverance is the key.

 

Soldanella pusilla seeds; 1 mm grid

This year, I sowed very late in January a few species. I have a feeling that we will have enough time this winter to provide the cold period in our region.

Among the sowings, there is also the lovely Dwarf snowbell, Soldanella pusilla, that another source suggests could be a warm germinating species. The same species can have different patterns of germination depending of the mother-plant origin.
So, it is time for a little test: I sown two pots, one will receive cold/moist stratification outdoors, one will remain in a cooler location in the house.
Experimenting with sowing is another fun thing to do in the dead of winter 😊

Not many people are familiar with the lovely Dwarf snowbell. I was lucky to see it flowering up the mountain a few times, but last summer it was the first time I got the chance to collect a decent quantity of seeds.

Soldanella pusilla with Ranunculus crenatus

Soldanella pusilla it is a diminutive plant that grows at alpine level from the C&E Alps, Apennines, Rhodope to the Carpathians Mts.
The solitary, large, reddish-violet fringed flowers, appear right after the snowmelt, most often in large numbers in certain locations (meaning somewhere in July at alpine level).
So, it is by great chance to go up the mountain exactly to find it flowering, in company of other acid substrate inhabitants like: Primula minima, Ranunculus crenatus, Geum reptans, Campanula alpina…

Seeds wise, as well, if you do not know precise growing locations, by summertime, the very small rosettes remain quite invisible among the high alpine vegetation. Plus, the seeds setting and maturation is highly dependent on the weather.

In contrast to other Soldanella species, S. pusilla will often grow in open places, in full sun to part-shaded locations. By late summer the little, leathery rosettes get a bit of protection from the nearby vegetation. Usually the rosettes of leaves are forming colonies, which means it self-seeds around and maybe also propagates vegetatively.

Besides an acidic substrate (not too difficult to provide by adding a mixture of peat and sand) the most difficult to maintain in a hot, dry climate would be the moisture. Our humid summers also pose problems for high alpine species, but it is worth giving it a try!

I am able to grow now a couple of other Soldanellas, Ramonda myconi and Saxifraga cuneifolia by using a tall container, where the large volume of soil maintains a rather constant humidity even during high summer. Plus, I can monitor the slug attack attempts much easier.
If I will be successful with germination and seedlings growing, that’s how I intend to cultivate the Dwarf Snowbell as well (if in need of inspiration).

Those with a moist nook in the rockery, especially in the provinces with not so hot & humid summers, may have better chances to establish it. Do not miss the chance to try the Dwarf Snowbell; it will never be a regular offering on BotanyCa Seed List!

Paeonia obovata seedlings (seeds sown in early fall 2023)

The first post of the new year, talking about the first, prematurely ‘born’ seedlings of 2025.
Paeonia obovata (seeds sown in 2023) has started to grow in the garage (I took various outdoor pots in the garage in late December: Cold alert). It is not an ideal situation but they cannot be taken back outdoors now.

More correctly to say, these are the ‘first shoots’ instead of ‘seedlings’ because as we know, most Paeonia species are hypogeal germinators.

Meaning, the rootlets grow ‘quietly’ first during a +/- warm period (you won’t see anything above the pot/ground) and in the next season (after a cold period/winter) the shoots start growing. So, we don’t have a ‘complete’ germination (roots and shoots) in one year: Growing peonies from seeds.

In this case, the growth of the rootlets didn’t happen in the first ‘warm’ period of fall 2023 as expected.
This can be from various reasons: temp. too high or to low in late summer/fall, not long enough warm period; maybe I left the pot too dry, and who knows what else… Theoretically, the shoots should have started to grow in the spring of 2024. Seeds of Paeonia veitchii-white form and Paeonia mascula ssp. arietina, sown at the same time in 2023, should also start to germinate this year.

Paeonia japonica seedlings, April 2018

Nothing is very ‘precise’ when it comes to seeds germination. We know this very well.

What else can be learned is that for most species peonies shoots start growing at relatively low temperatures (around 8C in my garage). If not in the garage, the growth would have started outdoors in very early spring.

I first noticed this in 2018, when I found the first shoots of Paeonia japonica while opening the cold frame in early April. Worth mentioning that it was a late spring and all pots were slightly frozen at the top at the time.

Paeonia japonica, April 2023

This keeps in line with the very early emergence of the majority mature peonies in the garden. Most often they appear in late March-early April, when only snowdrops, some Corydalis Crocus and few Hepatica may be flowering. The beautiful red- or purple-colored early shoots will always make us worry when late frosts are expected. Luckily, they always prove to be very cold hardy!

Looking back at the many plants I’ve grown from seeds over the years, the peonies have been among the most satisfying. Maybe on the same place with the hellebores and Epimediums.
They are all not only gorgeous, but resilient, long-lived perennials that require very little care over the years. We are rewarded with beautiful foliage from early spring to fall (winter), amazing flowering plus attractive fruits in case of peonies!

It is understandable why I decided to sow more seeds; I only have a late flowering, dwarf form of P. obovata, shown in the feature image. The more the better!

Concentrating to process the current orders as fast as possible, I’ve missed the usual Friday posting.

There were also a few new species to be announced, so I’ve prepared the files for uploading. What better way to end the year than announcing the latest additions to the Seeds List!

Previously announced: Campanula alpina and Pulsatilla alpina.

Also, two new Penstemon species: Penstemon gracilis and Penstemon palmeri.

Good things come to those who wait, so a few seeds pck. of Gentiana paradoxa hybrid are also available.

Last, Veratrum nigrum seeds, that recently arrived from a friend.
The  commonly called False Black Hellebore (never understood why, the foliage doesn’t resemble a hellebore) is not often grown from seeds, and for good reason: like many other rhizomatous species it is slow to grow and reach flowering age.
On the other hand, it is not something found at the garden centres, so those with a ‘collector’ strike, may choose to go via propagating it from seeds.

True, you will have to wait a few years to witness the impressive, tall flowering stems covered in myriads of star-shaped blackish flowers, but rosettes with large, pleated leaves are very ornamental in themselves.

Like all other Veratrum species, V. nigrum is both a toxic and medicinal plant. The rhizomes are poisonous if ingested.
Traditionally powdered rhizomes were used to treat various ailments, particularly for high blood pressure, epilepsy…it would be much more to say on this subject. Also reported to have insecticidal properties.

At the end of the year, I extend many thanks to those who have purchased seeds from BotanyCa in 2024 and not only. I hope you managed to grow at least a few seedlings and new plants will embellish your garden in 2025 and beyond!

Happy New Year! May all your seeds germinate and grow into beautiful plants!

A few days and nights with extremely low temperatures are announced for SW Ontario. For other regions – please check your weather forecast.

Galanthus ‘Spindlestone Surprise’

If you still have unprotected/or with little protection pots with summer & early fall sowings (Corydalis, Hepatica, Claytonia, Paeonia, Asarum, Trillium…) hurry up to add blankets on top of them; or shovel snow on top of them if you are lucky to have enough of it.
The same goes for young seedlings that are still in pots.

It is a good thing I checked my boxes: Galanthus ‘Spindlestone Surprise’ is already above the mix and Adonis ramosa (seedlings) buds are also very advanced.

I cannot show the inside of the peonies pots but some seeds have grown-up roots for sure.

If you only have a few pots – it is much easier to bring them inside in a cool location for a few days (unheated garage for example).

 

Canada Post update: the latest news is that starting tomorrow Canada Post should resume activity.
If that will happen remains to be seen and in any case it will be a slow start. Plus, we don’t know when will they start accepting new mail.

I will keep everyone updated about the situation. Meanwhile, I advise against placing new orders, although I appreciate the gesture. It is highly unlikely that ‘normal’ shipping will resume before the New Year.

Now, about the Campanula persicifolia ‘Nitida Alba’

Campanula persicifolia ‘Nitida Alba’

When we grow plants from seeds, we want to know the correct name of the plants we are growing. Otherwise, what is the purpose of the labels we stick in the ground and around the rockery?

There is a lot of confusion about the name of this dwarf form of the peach- leaved bellflower.
I checked various databases and reliable sources to be sure what we are talking about. Plus, I grew it from seeds just to be able to see it ‘in the real’ and get a better idea of what it may be.

It is a very peculiar plant, with very rigid (stiff) stems and dark green leaves, typical shape wise of C. persicifolia. The flowers differ from those of the typical C. persicifolia by being larger and upward facing, and not all seem to have functional anthers. As a result, only a couple of flowers have formed capsules with seeds.

This little Campanula is offered under different names – all wrong! – by various companies selling seeds /or plants, some very well known. You may buy seeds or plants as: Campanula nitida alba, C. persicifolia f. nitida and ssp. nitida, Campanula persicifolia var. planiflora (with syn. C. persicifolia var. nitida) and C. nitida for a blue flower form.

Campanulastrum americanum flowers

All synonyms’ names, including var. and subspecies published at all times for C. persicifolia are listed here: https://wfoplantlist.org/taxon/wfo-0000828132-2024-06?page=1
We cannot found any form, variety or ssp. nitida published under C. persicifolia, at any time. The same goes for var. planiflora. They simply don’t exist!

Even worse, Campanula nitida is a synonym name for Campanulastrum americanum!!! You know – our native, biennial, tall plant, with particular long styled- flowers!

Lack of knowledge of botanical nomenclature, lack of attention, wrong spelling of the species name versus cultivar names…all these have contributed in time to the propagation of wrong names for this little Campanula.

It is impossible to track back cultivar names, but my opinion is that that this dwarf plant showed up as a mutation from C. persicifolia ssp. sessiliflora ‘Alba’.  The subspecies sessiliflora has the same upward, sessile flowers: https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/120442/campanula-persicifolia-subsp-sessiliflora-alba/details

It doesn’t matter where it comes from, most important is to use a proper name for it.
I’ve found a single specialty nursery from Austria, where the name it is written properly: https://www.sarastro-stauden.com/shop/winterharte-stauden/campanula-glockenblume/campanula-persicifolia-nitida-alba/

Campanula persicifolia ‘Nitida Alba’ is an interesting dwarf bellflower that will make a good piece of conversation for your rockery. Plus, it is easily grown from seeds (warm germinator) and starts to flower in the second year. Go for it!

And don’t forget to write the proper name on your label, especially if you are sharing seeds later!

 

 

Canada Post strike update: finally good news for today!
It has been announced that the dispute between Canada Post and the Canadian Union of Postal Workers will be under analysis by the Canada Industrial Relations Board. Because the parts involved are still very far apart in their negotiations, the postal workers could be ordered back to work soon.

Of course, there are huge backlogs that will need to be resolved first, but at least there is light at the end of the tunnel. We will know more about this next week.

Many thanks to all who have placed orders after the strike began and are waiting patiently for a resolution!

Like every year, at this time I am sorting through the fruits/seeds collections and pack them in glassine envelopes before I introduce them in cold storage (0-4C).
Even for those who do not sell seeds or engage in seeds trading – it is always a good idea to keep a few back-up seeds from your most beloved plants! How you store your seeds is very important to ensure a long/good viability.

With the exceptions of hydrophilic species-seeds (which need moist storage) and few species with short viability, all other seeds need to dry up very well to ensure good viability and germination capacity (for a few years, depending on the species).
So, as mentioned with other occasions, newly collected fruits/seeds need to be kept in large paper envelopes, coffee filters, open trays or anything similar, for quite a while after collecting. For larger quantities, paper lunch bags work quite well; all of these stored in a well aerated room.

Thermopsis villosa seeds have just been cleaned and will be packed, the lunch bag is full with Liatris ligulistylis stems with seeds that will be processed shortly; Allium thunbergii ‘Ozawa’ seeds collected only last week! will need to dry up further.

Ready for cold storage: Phyteuma confusum, various Primula species….

We cannot control the humidity level as good as can be done in the Seeds Banks facilities, but for our practical purpose it is good enough if you follow the procedure described.

Only after the seeds are very well dried up, they can be packed further in glassine envelopes (preferably) and introduced in cold storage.

The glassine envelopes are placed in Ziploc freezer bags (kept in alphabetical order). As another safety measure against humidity, silica gel packs are added in the Ziploc bags and periodically controlled and replaced when necessary.

This is also a good time to look in detail at smaller collections and figure out if there are enough seeds to share. Those interested will notice in the Seed List a newly added Campanula persicifolia ‘Nitida Alba’, about which I will give a few clarifications early next week.

Plus, soon to be added: wild collected seeds of Campanula alpina (another great little Campanula species) and Pulsatilla alba.

Stay tuned for more good news….

With regret, I have no good news about Canada Post strike.
A positive side to this happening is that I decided to use this downtime and switch the website/shop to another host provider (so there might be a bit of disruption when attempting to browse through the site).

We gardeners are very optimistic by nature and looking to the bright side of things is always a better choice.
With the first snow flurries flying around, there is no better time to think at new plants to add to your garden. A
few ‘bright’ ideas for easy species to grow from seeds (there are many more species in the Seeds List): Primula veris + Lathyrus vernus for spring, Primula sieboldii + Lathyrus vernus (choice of colors) and Polygala major + Papaver chakassicum for late May-June. The strike will end at some point, so better have a wish list ready!

Reminder: Orders placed between Nov. 7- Nov. 19 can be shipped only after Nov.20
The Shop remains open for ordering – moist packed seeds excluded!
Thank you.

Like in previous years, we are enjoying a warm, pleasant beginning of November. But, do not be fooled, in Ontario we can go from nice fall weather to winter in a blink of an eye!

Are your seedlings prepared for the winter? We cannot leave our ‘precious’ unprotected. You may have new fall sowings and young seedlings 1-2(3) year-old still in pots. They all need extra care for safe overwintering in a cold climate.

For those who have a proper cold frame it is an easy task: place the pots inside, add a bit of fleece, close de frame and hope for the snow. Let’s see what other options are available for those without a cold frame.

Seedlings (dormant) winter protection – the easy way

The easiest, if you have just a few pots: find a place between perennials in the garden, and dug the pots in the ground. Place a mesh on top to discourage the critters and a pile of leaves/or mulch on top. Water the pots well one more time before doing this!
Avoid low areas where the water might stagnate in early spring after snow melt.

If you have a lot of pots or flats, keeping them in the ground is not a practical solution. You need to use a larger empty area somewhere in your garden, or in the patio, close to the shed…Gather all the pots tight together and have various materials handy: bubble wrap, fleece, frost black cloth, tarps.

In the picture below, my ‘collection’ from a couple of years ago: pots with 2 years old dormant seedlings and un-germinated seeds (in plastic boxes). This already offers them a bit of protection. I presented this option for summer sowings, the plastic box helping to avoid the desiccation and watering a lot the pots.

Also, young seedlings, which are wrapped in cloth. The wooden frame is not really necessary (although very easy to do).

Arrange everything tight together and add layers gradually, depending on how cold it gets; finish with the tarp. Some winters we need more layers, some less. It also depends how soon it will snow. Snow provide the best insulation.

Instead of one big pile, you can have 2: one for the new sowings, one for young seedlings, which need more protection. During warmer periods, it is good to check up on the pots and the big pile can be rearranged with this occasion.

Ideally, it will snow and that would seal the deal. If not, fingers crossed. Still, I never had any loses keeping young seedlings and plants over the winter like this.
It is not that these pots won’t freeze at all; they will, believe me (I would find them frozen in the spring even in the cold frame). But we hope to attenuate the extreme low temperatures: -3C is OK, but -10C is already a different story.

Notes: make the pile in a place where the snow gathers well (for example, under big evergreen trees there is always less snow). If possible, the area  where you keep the pots should be shaded, so the snow won’t melt too fast during the winter sunny days.

We can relax now and start thinking what else to sow later in the winter, while already dreaming about spring!

 

Until we have more news about Canada Post negotiations early next week – I don’t recommend new orders to be placed!

Some plants always become more ‘visible’ in late fall, both in nature and in the gardens. Among them are the evergreen sedges; no garden is complete without them.
There are quite a few North American native plants species to choose from at the garden centers. However, in the sedges ‘department’ there is still a lot of work to be done.

Carex arctata, Drooping woodland sedge

Over the years, I learned to appreciate the sedges that maintain a green appearance during late fall and winter when all other plants are having their winter ‘beauty’ sleep.

I promised, for those wishing to add more native winter–greens to their gardens, to keep an eye open for new sedges. So, there is a new one in the List this year – Carex arctata, the Drooping woodland sedge, with its very nice, bright green foliage sometimes punctuating the hiking paths. From spring to the winter, the clumps remain happily green, just the green nuance differs a bit.
I was also aiming for Carex platyphylla seeds, but alas I missed the right moment. Looking fwd to collect them next year!

We also have other sedges that have ornamental fruit-heads like Carex grayi (back in stock), and few other related species. The fruiting stems can be used as a fall décor for a while :)

Granted, not all sedges remain evergreen or have interesting fruit heads, but they can have other qualities like for example the interesting ‘tropical’ texture of Carex muskingumensis, the Palm sedge.


Speaking of décor, I will digress from sedges a bit to mention one of my favorite native grass, Chasmanthium latifolium, the Northern Sea oats, pictured here at the end of October.

An important mention is that all these species are very easy to grow from seeds! Nothing is holding us back to grow them all, except the lack of seeds.

Interested in other, out of the ordinary, ornamental grasses and related genera?
https://botanicallyinclined.org/fine-grasses-for-shade-sedges-melica/
The Seeds List

 

*this article has been written by a plant obsessed human :-)

Back with the widely UN-popular series of Friday’s seeds and fruits!
Today we’ll discuss about the fruits & seeds of the kinnikinick or bearberry – Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, an excellent evergreen, ground covering shrub for sandy/rocky, sunny locations. Most Arctostaphylos species are valuable additions for native landscaping and erosion control plantings.

I noticed it has become a bad habit to call all fruits which are rounded and red berries. So, even for the bearberry one will find them called as such by most ‘copy & paste’ knowledgeable gardening websites.
It may be that such similarities on many websites are because AI writings nowadays? In this case, we should be more careful about the data provided for AI teaching.

Stony seeds of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (bearberry), after removing the red, mealy fleshy part of the drupes. Most often they remain fused together; few were broken apart for showing purpose.

The type of fruit of a given plant also gives us information about its seeds, and so it has importance sowing-wise, to know what we  are dealing with. It is not just a question of semantics.

The rounded and red fruits of Arctostaphylos are actually DRUPES (think peaches, but with more ‘stones’ than one).

Each drupe contains 5+ stony seeds. Some may break apart, but most often they remain fused together, giving the impression of a large ‘stone’.
In translation, the Arctostaphylos seeds are enclosed inside a very hard endocarp. Berries do not have seeds enclosed in hard endocarps.

In nature, the Arctostaphylos fruits are consumed not only by bears, like the common name implies, but also by small mammals and birds. The stony seeds will suffer a natural ‘scarification’ passing through their digestive system; upon ‘release’ the seeds will be primed for germination.

Notice also the outer layer of the seed (the stony part) and the narrow opening through which the radicle will emerge during germination. The opening is plugged (the tissue is not as hard as the endocarp) and will be softened during scarification. Courtesy of a very old forestry nursery book.

Following example, plant nurseries have developed germination protocols for Arctostaphylos species involving the scarification of  the stony seeds with sulphuric acid (not an easy task).
Of course gardeners have to use other approaches, using a mechanical scarification of some sort.

Another method that can be safely used by gardeners for any Arctostaphylos species is the ‘smoking’ method. It was inspired after natural wildfires which most often stimulate the germination of various species with hard seed coverings, and it involves burning a layer of pine needles over a flat with sown seed stones. The stony endocarp usually cracks open during the burning.
Or, cover the stony seeds mixed with soil (even the whole fruits) with pine needles (or similar plant parts) in a fire pit and give a good burning to the pile; let them cool off before sowing.

There is more – besides the hard covering, the seeds of Arctostaphylos also have dormant embryos. So, the scarification has to be followed by dormancy breaking treatments. According to reliable sources these are: 2-4 months of warm/moist stratification followed by 2-3 months of cold/moist stratification.

A lot of work I admit! But genetic diversity oblige, we cannot propagate by cuttings endlessly.