Goldenseal: conservation through propagation

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Goldenseal (Hydrastis canadensis L – Ranunculaceae) is a woodland species growing only in Southeastern Canada and Eastern US.            

It is known under many other common names: yellow puccoon, eyebalm, eyeroot, Indian paint, wild turmeric, ground raspberry, which can often be traced back to the Native American uses as a medicinal plant. The Cherokee and other Indigenous tribes used the roots of this plant as an antiseptic for inflammations, general tonic, to treat skin problems, and as an eyewash.
Also a golden-yellow dye was produced from the roots (yellow rhizomes), hence the common name ‘Indian dye’.

It was just a matter of time for the European settlers to start using it in a similar fashion. Somehow the popularity of the species grew exponential during early 1990s, and the demand for goldenseal increased tremendously, which of course, lead to the over-harvesting of plants in the wild.

Considered rare and/or endangered, with protection legislation in place forbidding harvesting from the wild, the loss of natural habitat is nowadays adding to the conservation challenges of this species.

Personally I wanted to cultivate it not for medicinal purposes, but as part of the woodland plant community, together with Trilliums, Uvularia, Jeffersonia… and so on.
Goldenseal is presumed to be growing in the some locations in Southern Ontario, but it is elusive and I have never encountered it in the wild.

I am happy to be able to share a few seeds from my garden grown plants (raised from seeds) hoping that more people will offer it a refuge in their woodland gardens. With large maple-like leaves, white flowers and ‘strawberry’ looking fruits, it is a beautiful plant!

Hydrastis canadensis flowers

Hydrastis canadensis fruits

Propagation from seeds:

The seeds are hydrophilic and have to be sown right away after being removed from the fruits or moist packed for sowing at a later date.

Hydrastis canadensis fruits (2)

Hydrastis canadensis seeds

For best results they have to undergo the natural variation in temperature from our temperate climate: warm (late summer) – slightly warm/cold (fall) – cold (winter). The seedlings will appear somewhere in May, almost at the same time with the adult plants emerging from the ground.
One option is to sow the seeds asap and keep the pots outdoors (cold frame or snow covered in the winter).

For those interested in a more ‘controlled’ germination, I will outline how I grew my plants. For a small lot of seeds maybe it is better to keep a close eye on the process because Hydrastis seeds present a peculiar phenomenon: the embryos start growing in late fall up to the point that the seed coats split to reveal the endosperm. This is due to the embryo growth and can be already noticed in December; they gradually continue to enlarge toward the spring, as seen in the pictures.

Hydrastis canadensis seeds with split seedcoats- March

Hydrastis canadensis seeds- emerging roots April

I mixed the seeds with slightly moist vermiculite and kept them at room temperature until late fall, then somewhat cooler for a couple of weeks, and then placed them in the fridge to simulate the winter (+/-4C).  The moisture must be checked regularly.

The seeds were sowed in pots after I noticed the first roots starting to emerge (see picture above – late March/April) and the pots placed outdoors in a shaded cold frame (beware the critters, late freeze, heavy rains; a garage is also a good option too since light is not necessary for a while); keep moist, but do not over water (the seeds will rot easily at this stage). The seedlings will appear sometime in May. In the first two years the growth is slow like in all other rhizomatous species and best to grow them in the sowing pot; the first flowers are to be expected in the third year.

Hydrastis canadensis germinated seeds- late May

Hydrastis canadensis 2 years-old seedlings

Head to the Seeds List, or click here for the direct link to Hydrastis seeds. Only propagation, especially from seeds, truly leads to plant species conservation.                                                                    

*Botanically speaking, Hydrastis is a bit of a controversial genus within the family Ranunculaceae. It was moved to Berberidaceae due to its similarities with Podophyllum and Diphylleia; returned to Ranunculaceae due to its strong resemblance to Glaucidium; placed in its own family – Hydrastaceae, and then finally, returned back to Ranunculaceae.

Its most closely related species is Glaucidium! (which has been awarded its own family in the end). For now Flora of North America places Hydrastis canadensis in the Ranunculaceae.

 

 

Gentle traps: Aristolochia

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Aristolochia (Dutchman’s pipe) hardy species are not often seen cultivated in the gardens. It is a pity since they are quite interesting.
I wrote before that serepindity made it to grow successfully from seeds two such species: Aristolochia iberica and Aristolochia steupii, both hailing from the Caucasus and surrounding regions.

Aristolochia iberica

Aristolochia steupii

They are both deciduous, trailing vines of deciduous forests, short in stature though, with ‘pipe-like’ typical flowers (hence the generic name Dutchman’s pipe) along upright leafy stems produced in late spring. The flowers are not large, but they are so unusual they make you want looking at them again, and again…The flowers have hairs which will guide and shortly trap insects, but this doesn’t mean they are carnivorous. The pollinators find their way out after performing the ‘required’ task.

Aristolochia iberica: mature capsule showing the seeds. The seeds germinate best when sown fresh or moist packed

The fruits are egg-shaped, hard capsules which will split and release the seeds on short notice. The seeds bear resemblance to those of other species from the family, like Asarum and Saruma. Like ways, their seeds also require a slightly warm/cold cycle for proper germination; if they get very dry the germination rate is greatly reduced.

Another hardy Dutchman’s pipe is our native Aristolochia durior, which grows tall and needs a support or can ‘hang on’ to a nearby tree. I still have to add this one to the garden.

Meanwhile, even if the spring has been cold and capricious, Aristolochia iberica has produced a few capsules &  good seeds.
Those who want to grow something cool, that almost no one else has, give it a try. Show it off to your garden friends as a ‘rarity’ :)

The seeds will become available on Friday, together with few other moist packed seeds.

They are species for the woodland garden, part sun/shade works best (morning sun), in locations with good, rich substrate where you would water during dry spells. They can be good companions for: Saruma henryi, Asarum, Hepatica acutiloba, evergreen Epimediums, Podophyllum, Helleborus, to mention the few that are in my garden bed; also Arisaema ssp. Uvularia, Trilliums, Hydrastis and so on….
Hold your breath because Hydrastis canadensis seeds will also be available soon!

Aristolochia steupii flower

Aristolochia and Podophyllum pleianthum

*Although Aristolochia species have been employed for medicinal purpose to treat various ailments, due to the mutagenic properties of the aristolochic acid (found in all plants of this family), today it is advised not to use any preparations based on Aristolochia species.

The first colorful fruit of the season

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and Trillium seeds

It is official – the first colorful fruit of the season belongs to Hydrastis canadensis! None of the others already collected can pass as being colorful.

Hydrastis canadensis (Goldenseal) ripen fruit in mid-July, 2020

By the way, seeds of Trillium grandiflorum are in stock, and so are seeds of a light pink form of Sanguinaria canadensis.

Trillium grandiflorum

Sanguinaria canadensis light pink form

Helleborus foetidus

Lilium washingtonianum


Other species benefiting from summer sowing that were recently uploaded in the inventory: Helleborus foetidus and Lilium washingtonianum.

 

 

More on the Hepatica germination: what ‘warm’ means?

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Hepatica seeds offerings

All the available Hepatica seeds are now in stock: Hepatica category. The sold out forms have been archived and can be found using the Search tab.

I am very happy that this year I managed to collect more Hepatica americana seeds; last spring due to a rainy and cold spring there were just few seeds available. Hepatica americana #1, #2, the bicolor form and the ‘Spring Dawn’ are all delightful!
There is also a new H. acutiloba fragrant! Maybe few of the seedlings will inherit this trait.

 

Following an email from a client regarding the warm period mentioned on the Germination page, I need to make a clarification. It seems that ‘warm’ can be misunderstood. It is a term broadly used for all species which need to be sown in late spring/summer in order to germinate properly.

Those reading with attention on the germination page would have also noticed this: “It has been shown that the embryos will start growing rapidly at the end of summer when the day/night temperatures start to decline.”

So, actually nothing is happening until toward the end of the summer, when with the falling of temperatures the embryos start growing. For all living in the Northern Hemisphere, ‘warm’ simply means: keep the sowing pots outdoors, in a shaded place, and let them follow the natural variations in temperature until winter arrives (keep the pots out of heavy rains, this year seems to be crazy; a shaded spot along the house under eaves, under a patio table, underneath a large shrub…..).

The ‘warm’ period would constitute a problem only for those in the Southern Hemisphere, who currently experience winter.

Advice for those thinking of growing Hepatica for the first time:
Please consider starting with H. acutiloba- pastel mix or any other H. acutiloba.
They usually germinate in the first spring (if instructions are followed), the seedlings are vigorous and
prove to be quite adaptable, including in the garden (H. acutiloba pastel mix seedlings in the featured image).

Hepatica acutiloba ‘Purple Star’ seedlings of last year

Hepatica americana it is a bit more finicky, and some seeds will only germinate in the second year after sowing, regardless that they are moist packed and sown right away.

Please review the Checklist for growing Hepatica from seeds, before purchasing seeds with unrealistic expectations (they may not germinate in the first spring after sowing and it will take 3-4 years until producing the first flower).

Little treasures: dwarf Polygala species

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While waiting for Hepatica seeds to drop into the catching bags, ;) we can admire two dwarf Polygala species. I’m a big fan of Polygalas.

From the garden, flowering for the first time: Polygala amarella, the dwarf milkwort. This is a European species growing on limestone grasslands, slopes and rock ledges, up to subalpine level.

Polygala amarella, cultivated (grown from seeds wild coll. Carpathian Mts)

From our woods: Polygala paucifolia, the gaywings. I showed it many times but it flashes for attention, flowering more or less at the same time with Trillum grandiflorum. It is growing on deciduous and mixed forests, in part-shaded, slightly moist locations.

Polygala paucifolia in wild habitat

Polygala species are not difficult to grow from seeds, it is just that the seeds are very hard to “catch” and thus always in short supply; then the seedlings are best grown in the community pot for 2 years. Flowering can start in the third year and is very rewarding. Polygala vulgaris and P. major are also in line to flower this summer — it doesn’t get any better!

Timeline for Hepatica seeds: collecting maybe in the first week of June.
The offerings are taking shape in the Seeds Shop – check out the Hepatica category; final price/seeds per pck. will be established after collecting.

 

 

Hepatica americana and a checklist

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As soon as the rains allow, small bags will be placed to catch the Hepatica seeds; for both H. americana and H. acutiloba. I mentioned before that catching the seeds is not an easy task. This year the flowering show was partially missed and we cannot be sure about the seeds until later. I will show a few H. americana plants that I have my eyes on:

Hepatica americana #1
I gave it this ‘name’ a few years ago and in a way it remains my favorite. It is a large specimen, reliable flowering (seeds germinating in the first spring) with violet/blue flowers with a narrow white edging.

Hepatica americana ‘#1’

H. americana #1 foliage

H. americana ‘Spring Dawn’
An exciting find with larger than usual flowers with multipetal tendency and also gorgeous foliage. It is a mesmerizing form of H. americana but I don’t know yet if it would come true from seeds.

Hepatica americana ‘Spring Dawn’

H. americana ‘Spring Dawn’ fading flowers

Few forms with pure, white flowers are also marked for collecting.


A bicolor specimen shown below it would be a first time offering. As well, seeds from a small isolated group of plants with white flowers brushed with pink, they should come true from seeds – a seedling in the featured picture.

Hepatica americana bicolor

Maybe also few seeds from a white form and white/lavender forms with multipetal tendency.

H. americana multi white

H. americana 5a-B19

Available seeds will be posted in the shop (in 2-3 few weeks) and announcement will be made here and on FB page (those interested please subscribe to one of them).
Last year extremely cold and rainy spring made it for a disastrous seeds setting so I really hope this season will be better. Fingers crossed!

The checklist posted for H. acutiloba also applies for growing Hepatica americana from seeds.

 

 

Hepatica acutiloba 2020 and a checklist

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What else better on a cold Friday than to look at nice Hepatica acutiloba pictures? This spring the flowering show was partially missed, but there are plenty of pictures from previous years. What forms will be available on the shop is hard to say until the seeds start to form. We can only hope that most will have a good seeds set.

Again, collecting Hepatica seeds is not an easy task. Especially in the wild it requires repeated trips and bagging (this must also be done in the garden) in order to catch the rapidly dispersing seeds.

I would very much like everyone to be successful in growing these beautiful plants. Truth is though, that not everyone has enough patience (and/or skills) to grow from seeds species that require 3+ years to reach a modest flowering stage. So, I put together a checklist.
Checklist for growing Hepatica from seeds; you have to mark OK for all in order to consider growing Hepatica from seeds.
– purchase the seeds preferably as soon as they become available.
– sow the seeds as soon as they arrive, keep the pots under natural conditions in a part-shaded location and water as necessary.
– be prepared to wait until the second spring for germination; i.e. take care one more year of “empty looking” pots.
– transplant and take care of small seedlings.
– wait 2-3 more years to see the first flowers.
– all of the above, while continuing to take care of the plants/pots (they can be also ‘planted’ in the ground/large container)
– all in all, 3-4 years are necessary until able to enjoy the first flowers.

H. acutiloba multi-white

Hepatica acutiloba multi-pink

Hepatica acutiloba fo.rosea

Hepatica acutiloba spring foliage

Hepatica acutiloba foliage

Hepatica acutiloba ‘Purple Star’

Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix3

Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix

Hepatica-acutiloba-pastel-mix6

Hepatica acutiloba 2A-B18

Hepatica acutiloba white, scented

Hepatica acutiloba woodland

More details on Hepatica page, also Transplanting and caring for Hepatica seedlings, plus see the linked posts below.
Again, there will be an announcement with more details when seeds become available (late May-early June).

 

Growing Hydrastis canadensis; work with nature

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Today, I continue to record the cultivation of goldenseal, Hydrastis canadensis, in my garden. A reminder that this is an endangered species in its wild habitat! Last year one plant even produced a small fruit and what to do with few seeds? I sowed them of course; now they are starting to germinate, on the same time the adult plants are emerging from the ground.

The beautiful sight of Hydrastis canadensis emerging from the ground yesterday, May 4th 2020

Especially when growing native species it is important to work in sync with nature in your garden. This is also a good occasion to let you know that there is a wealth of good gardening eBooks on sale until May 21.

Those interested, please see the link below for the Earth Day Special on ALL gardening eBooks!
https://www.gardenfundamentals.com/special-on-hundreds-of-gardening-ebooks/

 

 

Spring in time of Covid V – native species

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A brief garden ‘woodland’ walk to see various species that were basking under the sun a couple of days ago. Again, trying to use locations in the garden that reproduce the native habitat is the key to happiness.
For most parts this means deciduous woods which allow plenty of sun in early to mid -spring and again in the fall. Combined deciduous/coniferous woods allow less light and can also be dryer (except on bottom lands and river valleys).

Of course that some species are more adaptable than others and having seedlings you can try them in various locations to see how they react.
Asarum canadense, the wild ginger, is one of the most easy going species that can be used as a groundcover. I caught it in the act of flowering in a sunny position, while in more shaded area is still in bud. The second picture shows the success I had establishing young plants grown from seeds on a dry slope (also shoots of Maianthemum stellatum showing up).

Asarum canadense, April 2020

Aasarum canadense on a slope


Anemonella thalictroides  (syn. Thalictrum thalictroides), rue anemone, is usually found on slightly moist locations. It is very easy to grow from fresh or moist packed seeds – pictured here are 3 years old flowering plants.

Anemonella thalictroides, garden April 27

Thalictrum thalictroides (Anemonella), May woodland

Another easy going, spreading by self-sowing is Hydrophyllum virginianum, Virginia waterleaf. It can even grow close to old tree trunks (hint for dry shade resistance!). A most loved species by the bees and bumblebees, so a few plants are a must (young seedlings can be easily removed if not desired).

The spring beauty, Claytonia virginica always loves to be close to the trees. A few left in my garden (squirrels love to dig the corms) and a nice patch flowering in the woodlands last year. The woods are still out of reach and seed collecting remains a question mark for now.

Hydrophyllum virginianum, garden April

Hydrophyllum virginianum, woodland

Claytonia virginica, garden

Claytonia virginica

 I will finish for today with these Prosartes lanuginosa seedlings, which are grown in a pot buried in the ground. I have shown this easy method to grow all woodland species from seeds a few times and I repeat it again for all those who recently purchased Caulophyllum thalictroides seeds ;)

Prosartes lanuginosa seedlings, yellow mandarin

Read more about easily growing woodland species from seeds: We got the moist packed seeds – now what?
Purple beasties – Caulophyllum

Until next…

 

Spring in time of Covid IV: native species

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In the last few days I’ve been ‘circling around’ a garden bed which due to the natural land configuration remains temporarily wet, with gradients of wetness and sun to part/sun exposure.
With the warming up I will start adding more species to this area. So let’s see a few native species suitable for such a location. When growing native species (and not only) it is very important to choose a garden spot that best imitates their native habitat.

Iris versicolor (Northern blue flag) is more than happy in such a location; the wetter, the better. Also, a small clump of Iris hookeri will be moved closer hoping for a better flowering. I plan to also try in this location a division of our beautiful dwarf lake Iris, Iris lacustris, which is currently in a drier spot.

Iris versicolor, April

Iris versicolor, late April, May

Iris hookeri, April

Iris hookeri

Iris lacustris, April

Iris lacustris late April/May

Sisyrinchium mucronatum, the slender blue–eyed grass, it is another resident; easy to grow and its fine texture combines beautifully with the Iris leaves.
Parnassia glauca (Marsh grass of Parnassus); any slightly moist place shouldn’t be without a Parnassia! This species gets quite robust after a few years and may even reseed in place. And what a wet area would be without water avens, Geum rivale?

Sysirinchium mucronatum, early April

Sisyrinchium mucronatum, June

Parnassia glauca, summer

Geum rivale, water avens

A bunch of Zigadenus elegans (Mountain death camass) seedlings planted last fall are just coming up. Also, speaking about seedlings, a pot of Lilium philadelphicum (wood lily) awaits the spring planting rush to begin.
One can find this native Lilium in various habitats, including (moist) woodland edges, but I’ve also seen beautiful specimens growing in wet ditches and I will try it this way.

Lilium philadelphicum seedlings

Lilium philadelphicum, summer

Lilium philadelphicum

There are many more other native species that I will gradually add: Castilleja coccinea and Lobelia cardinalis (seeds to be sown ‘in situ’ by fall). Asclepias incarnata is a must, as are Lobelia spicata and Chelone obliqua if the space allows (to mention just a few…).
Grasses and sedges speaking, there is a nice Deschampsia cespitosa (tuft hair grass) and Carex grayi; I would definitely like to grow more grasses.

Take notes for fall sowing ;) and fingers crossed seeds will be collected.

Castilleja coccinea

Asclepias incarnata

Lobelia cardinalis

Lobelia spicata

Carex grayi

Chelone obliqua

 

Spring in time of Covid III: native species

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The first Hepatica started to flower a while ago bringing high hopes of an early spring. Then, cold, bitterly temperatures returned in Ontario and everything has come to a halt. Taking pictures it is always a good way to record the start of growth for various species in the garden and in the wild. It is not only about the pretty flowers ;)

But records apart, I admit it is mostly about the joy seeing the first new shoots and leaves appearing from the ground. After our cold and long winters, the feelings of anticipation and expectation that an early spring brings can hardly be replaced by anything else.

Leaving Hepatica and Caulophyllum aside, I will show early starting NA native species from the garden (most were grown from seeds). The first picture in the gallery is from the garden; second one from the garden or woodland later in the spring/summer (hover for names).

First, the evergreen Geum triflorum (Prairie smoke). It retains a decent foliage all winter long and at the first spring signs will grow new foliage and start flowering. It is quite amazing to have these healthy looking, large clumps in April!

Geum triflorum in April

Geum triflorum in June

Allium tricoccum (Wild leeks, ramps) foliage; mine are young and may not flower this year.

Young Allium tricoccum in April

Allium tricoccum woodland colony, June

Podophyllum peltatum (Mayapple) little umbrellas, as well as the first Sanguinaria canadensis(Bloodroot).

Podophyllum peltatum, April

Podophyllum peltatum colony, June

Sanguinaria canadensis, April

Stylophorum diphyllum (Woodland poppy) emerges with the flower buds, well prepared for an early flowering in May.

Stylophorum diphyllum, April

Stylophorum diphyllum

In the feature image: our beloved Primula mistassinica; this species retains a small rosette over the winter and the flowering stems start growing in early spring.

Primula mistassinica April

Primula mistassinica, late April/May

The native species April-fest will continue soon after I prepare more pictures.
*Note: links are provided for those interested to read more about the species, but of course seeds are not available for many at this time.

 

‘Nadezhda’ and more Pasque flowers

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Even if just for my own pleasure and occasional exchanges with friends, I like to give names to special plants that are obtained from seeds. I don’t spend time thinking for a name; they just dawn on me after a while always in relation with the person who provided the seeds, the origin of the seeds or some important event associated with the flowering, or a special color.

This Corydalis caucasica ex. fo. alba grown from seeds flowered first time last year and now it seems established in the garden. Not fo. alba anymore, even better! I particularly like the mauve lips in combination with the pure white spurs; one of my favorite color combinations, and not only for Corydalis. Its color starts deeper and becomes lighter as the flowers age.

So, I named it ‘Nadezhda’: to remind me of all of the above and about springtime in time of a Covid crisis. (Nadezhda in Russian = Hope in English)

Corydalis caucasica ‘Nadezhda’

Happy Easter Holidays to all celebrating at this time!

Pulsatilla ex. styriaca

Pulsatilla pratensis

Pulsatilla patens ssp. multifida

 

Caulosaurus

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Young Caulosaurus :)

While talking Caulophyllum, here’s something I didn’t get around to show in late September last year: a bunch of Caulophyllum (most probably giganteum) 2 years old seedlings I dug out to replant.

 

As mentioned before, the large seeds of Caulophyllum, which require 2 years for germination, can be easily sowed ‘in situ’ (in the garden, woodland floor) in a shaded area, preferably close to another perennial/shrub. During dry spells some watering is required; otherwise there is nothing else to do.
When ready, they will germinate. If sown well-spaced there is no need to transplant them.

One early spring pleasure is to see the purple shoots erupting from the woodland floor. I still hope to be able to do it. Until then, the little ones from the garden are doing a good job.

 *Attention to the clients who have purchased seeds 4 years ago as C. thalictroides: it is very probable you actually have C. giganteum.

Caulophyllum giganteum seedlings: all seen here were sowed/ growing too close together; it was a good time to dig them up and replant them properly in September

 

 

Transplanting/caring for young Hepatica seedlings 

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We talked about seeds and  Hepatica germination – we need to have patience. Not only the seeds may germinate in the second year after sowing even if they were kept moist, also the seedlings, in most cases, are not very fast to develop.  Some will remain at the cotyledon leaves stage in the first season, others will grow one true leaf. In either case, they can be quite tiny and intimidating.

Let’s see about transplanting.

When to transplant?
One feature of Hepatica is that they put up a good growth in the spring through summer (roots, leaves, seeds, future flower buds) and then they take a ‘break’ until next year. For this reason I like to transplant in early spring or if not, in the fall; at least, the young plants will start the next season already well prepared.

What potting mix to use?
There are various recipes recommended by Hepatica growers. Unfortunately, most are not easy to reproduce exactly here. I’ve tried to mix various products available in the last years and some were better than others. What I want in the end is to have an easy to reproduce recipe using soil brands anyone can buy (in Canada).

I came up with this mix, which I think is pretty good: mix all ingredients in equal parts (1:1:1)
Perlite
Pro-mix potting soil
All-purpose potting mix:  Fafard brand is a good one. Unfortunately this sector of the landscape industry is non-regulated and most brands don’t specify the contents of the potting mix, plus, in almost in all cases they contain too much peat.

As a rule, as long as good drainage is ensured all should be well, so other combinations could be tried.

 Pots

Taller pots are preferable. You can basically use any type/size of pot proportionally sized in regards to the seedlings size and transplant 1-2 seedling/pot.
To avoid handling many individual small pots one can also use a rectangular planter instead. Another option is a compact-tray with a good height.

Hepatica americana container seedlings

Hepatica americana seedlings

Transplanting
Remove the seedlings from the sowing pot and carefully separate them. As seen in the pictures, Hepatica seedlings have a fine root system.
Transfer the seedlings in a new pot, add mix and take care to press only around the roots. The watering will settle down the mix well (add more mix if necessary).

Clockwise: Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix – seedlings removed from the pot; Hepatica japonica transplanted, flowering seedling, H. acutiloba pastel mix seedlings showing the roots; compact-tray with H. nobilis and H. acutiloba seedlings

Location: same like for adult plants, keep the pots/trays in a location with plenty of sun in the spring and shade starting summer. If necessary cover them with a plastic mesh. Water when necessarily (deep watering and let dry between) if the pots are not exposed to rain; a light fertilizer during the spring growth is beneficial.

Planting in the ground:
Usually in the third year the seedlings  can be planted in the ground.
To continue growing in pots transplant again to a larger size pot/container. Hepatica species are fitted for container growing if you have a small garden, or unsuitable soil conditions. You can easily provide sun in the spring and shade starting summer by moving the container in different spots.

Most often also the first flowers will appear in the third year to reward your efforts!

Various forms of Hepatica japonica 3 years-old plants

*I referred in general to Hepatica because in the end there is no difference between various species when it comes to germinating the seeds and transplanting (H. americana, H. acutiloba, H. nobilis, H. japonica and H. henryi).

Slugs and Roscoea

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What do they have in common? Nothing, only that both deterred me from finishing the article on transplanting Hepatica seedlings.

But I don’t want to waste the occasion on showing something about Roscoea scillifolia fo. atropurpurea while I still can. As soon as possible it will be planted in the garden; just couldn’t figure out a proper space for it last year.

Shown here – the way the rhizomes like to bury deep into the pot (the same happens in the ground) and the distinctive ‘whiskers’ around the apical buds of R. scillifolia fo. atropurpurea (a good ID character ;).

Roscoea scillifolia fo. atropurpurea rhizomes; notice how they went deep into the tall pot during growth. The pot was kept in the garage over the winter (no watering).

If you grew Roscoea from seeds and/or have 3-4 years old rhizomes, they can be planted in the ground in late spring. Please read again: Contractile roots- a journey to the centre of the earth where I mentioned why and when this is best done (in a cold climate).

*Keep in mind that most Roscoea are showing up late in the season and more than this, R. scillifolia fo. atropurpurea has small flowers, so it needs a proper location in order to enjoy it.

Roscoea scillifolia fo. atropurpurea flowering in the summer

** The slugs are active now and careful watching for damage signs can help in early detection to avoid further damage to the seedlings and plants. It takes time but worth doing it.

FAQ – Hot water treatment

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We discussed last year about the hot water treatment, a very easy to apply germination method which can successfully replace the use of scarification for the Fabaceae species. However, it is hard to say if it would be effective for all species and if all species will germinate at room temperature afterwards.

In addition, I will provide answers to few common questions and plates with seeds images for all species/genera I personally tried/try with this method.

How much the seeds should/will swell after a hot water treatment?
It depends on the species, the size and shapes of the seeds varies greatly, but usually the seeds can increase in size 2-3 times than the original size. Sometimes you may notice a ‘dramatic’ change in the seeds aspect/size (ex. Lupinus breweri).

Is it possible that no seeds will swell after 1 treatment?
Yes, it can happen, repeat again (for ex. Senna hebecarpa, Oxytropis, Trifolium seeds are slow to react).

How much time should the seeds remain in water?
Usually the next day you will see if the seeds have swollen (and how many), but to be sure you can keep them in the water for 2-3 more days (change the water daily).
In extreme case, seeds may even start to germinate in water after a while! (Hedysarum, Thermopsis).

Will all the seeds swell at once?
No, in the majority of cases after the first treatment only a few seeds will swell. Sow the swollen seeds after each treatment and repeat for the others (2-3+ times).

How soon will the seeds germinate?
It varies greatly with the species, some will start to germinate in few days, others will take a longer time (for ex. various Baptisia were slow to germinate).

Fabaceae – Hot water treatment 2019; notice the increase in size and the differences between species; all were germinated at room temp. afterwards

Current trials:

Fabaceae – Hot water treatment 2020; seeds aspect after 2 treatments. For each species notice seeds still of normal size and also swollen seeds.