Glaucidium palmatum germination wrapping-up and latest seeds (jump to the end of article)

One of the orders this week asking for Glaucidium seeds, reminded me that I haven’t posted my latest adventures regarding Glaucidium germination. I’ll do it now as a final revision for the Germination page.

Glaucidium germinating seeds after GA3 treatment

Having a bit too many older seeds left (2 & 3 years old), last winter I decided to see how they would germinate using GA3. Two and 3 years old seeds are not considered really ‘old’ for most species, but it was good to clarify the matter.
I wrapped all seeds in moist paper towels imbibed with GA3 solution 1000 ppm and left them like that for 1 day (inside a Ziploc bag). After that, I transferred the seeds into other moist paper towels (water), inside a Ziploc bag and kept them on the kitchen countertop. There were too many seeds and I considered this to be the easiest one in order to see what happens.

After about a week, some seeds were starting to germinate (featured image, Feb. 6). Great, I said, I’ll have a pot with seedlings, which is fine. But things were starting to accelerate and by Feb. 13, ALL the seeds were germinating, with the roots growing at the speed of light!

What to do? How to throw them away?! I learned my lesson about keeping too many seedlings of the same species….Still, I potted them up crowding 10+ seeds/pot. They grew for a while like it’s their habit only with cotyledon leaves, and then somewhere in late March/April they started to become dormant (again their habit).  At this point the pots will not look very nice but we have to let them enter dormancy in a ‘normal’ way.

Glaucidium dormant seedlings; if you remove a bit of mix from the top, future growing buds are visible.

Sometimes, after a short dormancy, a few seedlings will start to grow the true leaf; it didn’t happen this time probably due to the lack of soil in pots. ‘Empty’ looking pots were kept relatively moist (but not wet) and in late spring they were put outdoors in a shaded location. At some point in late June, I had a look to see what’s happening – all was well: seedlings in happy dormancy.

In early fall I assumed responsibility for the crowded seedlings, removed all from pots and replanted some in a large rectangle container, and some in other pots. Next spring the seedlings will start growing true leaves and they really need more space.

It is always a wonder how during only a few months of active growth the cotyledon leaves can support the growth of such large rootlets!

Some seedlings were shared bareroot with a friend in the fall, and more will follow next year. I do not plan opening a nursery ;)

So, this is method 1 of germinating Glaucidium palmatum using GA3; easily done. Do not start the seeds too early in the winter like I did.

Glaucidium palmatum dormant seedlings, August, 2023 – bareroot to be transplanted; every group shows how many seedlings grew in a 4 in pot!

Method 2:

GA3 is not absolutely necessary – I posted on another occasion the picture below with the note “a picture is worth a thousand words”. You just need more time for all seeds to germinate.

Glaucidium palmatum 1 and 2 years-old seedlings

The image is self-explanatory: for seeds sown regularly in pots in late fall/winter – some will germinate in the first spring (after cold/moist stratification); the rest of the seeds will germinate only after a warm cycle/followed by cold  – ie. the second spring.

For this reason, you can observe seedlings with cotyledon leaves only and seedlings with the true leaf in the same pot. Do not prick out the germinated seeds in the first year!

In all cases, the seedlings can be repotted easily when dormant in bigger pots. In the 3th year they should be planted in the ground. All rhizomatous species grow much better when they have more space to grow their root system.

The only phase when Glaucidium young seedlings can be lost is during dormancy if they receive too much water (from rains or overwatering).
To avoid this, keep the pots in a box with a lid, close to the house under eavestrough, in a shaded cold frame, or use any other method that would prevent the pots from drying too much (and encourage you to overwater) or to be rained on a lot.

This concludes once and for all experimenting with Glaucidium seeds from various sources. My first experiments were done in 2014!  Nothing else remains to be said.

With or without GA3, Glaucidium seeds are not more difficult to germinate than other rhizomatous species; sometimes they require 2 years for complete germination = patience. You don’t even need super fresh seeds as according with a germination myth about Glaucidium.

Latest seeds:

Two easy to grow perennials: Polemonium caeruleum and Polemonium yezoense ex. ‘Purple Rain Strain’

Two a bit more challenging shrubs, best to be sown asap: Rosa rubrifolia (syn. R. glauca) and Sorbus scopulina var. cascadensis

 

 

 

 

 

Probably the last call (!) for the moist packed seeds; we have again a window of opportunity for shipping, but it won’t last long.

New seeds in stock for today: Hamamelis virginiana,Viburnum lentago (Nannyberry), plus a replenished stock for Triosteum aurantiacum. They can be grown together in the garden as they enjoy similar conditions.

For those unfamiliar with it, a Hamamelis virginiana plant portrait follows next, with the emphasis on a very cool method of seeds dispersal. You can still find the American witch-hazels in flower in the woods, and who knows, maybe even witness a few ‘flying’ seeds!
Having a late October flowering species it is a real treat for the cold climate of Eastern Canada (and not only). It is not a ‘mistake’, it happens every year. The bright yellow flowers with a spicy fragrance that adorn the usual bare branches are very visible at this time of year.

In addition to the odd flowering time, the fruit maturation is also unusual: woody capsules develop over many months into the next year, and then explosively expel two shiny seeds at the same time with the new blooming. The genus name Hamamelis is actually a reference to this, meaning “at the same time” (flowering) and “fruit”.

It is said that the seeds can be expelled at up to 6-10 m distance! This method of seed dispersal reflects another, rarely employed common name: snapping hazelnut. Even more, the seeds spin during their ‘flight’!

This dispersal of seeds is similar for all Hamamelis species (4 of them), and the phenomenon has received a lot of attention. Scientists believe that it could inspire/improve the design of mechanisms for jumping robots. Watch and read the explanations of this cool video recorded by a team from Duke University: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dv0ltUBe_UE

While approaching a group of witch-hazels to smell the flowers last week, I noticed some capsules slightly opened and just showing the seeds.

I collected a few, how to abstain?! I never had the chance before. At home, I placed them in a paper bag, and then popping sounds were heard over the next few days. You can just relax and wait for the seeds to ‘liberate’ themselves in the bag. How nice, compared to cleaning Viburnum seeds!

Hamamelis virginiana leaves are similar in shape to those of European Corylus, the hazelnut, and this combined with the fact that Early European settles observed that Indigenous People used its forked branches to find underground water sources (dowsing), lead to the common name of witch-hazel. It seems that the early name was actually Wicke Hazel (meaning pliant in Old English), and only later it became witch-hazel, although it has nothing to do with the witches :)

American witch-hazel has had long medicinal usage among the Indigenous People, with the bark and leaves being used for insect bites, minor burns, skin irritation, colds and fevers; the astringent extract of witch-hazel is still present on the drugstores shelves.

 A nice small tree with a vase shape, suitable for part-shaded to sun locations (better flowering), and quite adaptable to substrates, with the exception of those too dry. Besides the late fall flowering, the foliage will also take a nice golden hue in the fall. It is less cultivated than the more colorful Asian Hamamelis species/hybrids available on the market, but I think we should give it more attention. After all, how many species do we have in our cold climate to flower in October?!

Propagation by seeds
The seeds require alternate cycles of warm followed by cold for germination. Considering they have just been harvested, if we sow in outdoor pots in late fall/winter, it means they will germinate in the second year after sowing. Or we can try cycles of moist stratification in plastic bags, or – even better, sow the seeds in late spring/summer and let it all happen naturally!

 

There are a few seeds of Gentiana paradoxa hybrid to share this fall, so the time has come to talk about the marvelous group of so called fall Gentianas: Gentiana paradoxa, Gentiana septemfida and their hybrids.

On we go!

Gentiana paradoxa is an endemic species with limited distribution in the Western Caucasus region.
In some cases, pictures shown over the net as Gentiana paradoxa are in fact hybrids. This species cross-pollinates easily with Gentiana septemfida both in the wild and in the garden; and in fact, this is a good thing (https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:368636-1)

Records show that Gentiana paradoxa was named by Russian botanist Nikolai Michailovic Albov in 1894 from specimens collected on the calcareous slopes of Mt. Kherebet Mamdzyhkhara, Abkhazia at 1300 m altitude (various spellings, Mt. Mamdzyshkha).

The specific epithet “paradoxa” means is – “contrary to expectation, paradoxical, marvellous”. It is indeed a marvellous species, with upright stems up to 20-25 cm, linear or narrow lanceolate leaves arranged in whorls and single large, blue, fringed flowers at the top of the stems. A mature specimen is truly magnificent.

I was lucky to received wild collected seeds a few years ago, so the specimen shown here represents the true species. You can easily tell if a Gentiana paradoxa is pure species simply after the foliage, which in optimal conditions turns a beautiful yellow in late fall. Also, there are single flowers at the top of the stems, as opposed to clusters in G. septemfida.

Amazingly, it is not a difficult species in culture. Do not believe the wiki statement “However, it is not particularly easy to grow, requiring moist, well-drained, lime-free soil and a position in full sun.” As you can see, they didn’t do their homework well, like it often happens.

Gentiana septemfida

Gentiana septemfida

It is a more commonly cultivated species and also with a larger geographical distribution: from N. & E. Türkiye to N. Iran, overlapping with Gentiana paradoxa in the Transcaucasus region. It grows from the upper forest to the alpine zones. It was first described from the alpine region of eastern Caucasus. (https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:368901-1)

The flowering stems have a trailing habit with ovoid, ovoid-lanceolate or lanceolate leaves and blue flowers usually in crowded clusters at the top of the stems. There are rare forms mentioned having only one or 2-3 flowers (f. uniflora and f. pauciflora). There are other differences from G. paradoxa flower-wise, but there is no need to go into more botanical details.

Gentiana paradoxa x septemfida hybrids

These two beautiful species easily hybridize in the wild when growing in the same area and also in the garden. The seedlings will display intermediate characters in various degrees, as well as the foliage, flowers and flowering time! By looking at my hybrid clump (a bunch of seedlings were planted together), they tend to take mainly after Gentiana septemfida, flowers and habit wise, having trailing flowering stems.

However, flowering time wise they take more after Gentiana paradoxa, all starting to flower in the first part of August and lasting into September. A Gentiana septemfida, which I also have in the garden, flowers much earlier, in mid-July.

The nr. of flowers/cluster vary, some with up to 8-10 flowers! Something similar goes around under the name of G. paradoxa hybrid ‘Blue Herald’. With Gentiana paradoxa raised from wild collected seeds growing nearby, the possibilities of even more beautiful hybrids are endless. They are going to be the result of a double cross with Gentiana paradoxa!

There is just one problem: the results of pollination were quite poor, both in true Gentiana paradoxa and the hybrids, signaling a limited self-pollination or maybe a lack of enough pollinators. Careful selecting is necessary in order to separate the good seeds.

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid seeds selection. A very small number of good seeds were formed, considering the large number of flowers

Growing these species and their hybrids from seeds

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid seedlings – picture just taken; they were transferred in a bigger pot as a bunch in late summer. Next spring, a delicate division of the seedlings will be done in individual pots.

These beautiful late summer/early fall flowering gentian species and their hybrids are very easy to grow from seeds and they are also quite adaptable as garden plants.

Why doesn’t this phenomenon happen more often?! They deserve a medal of merit especially for enduring well our hot & humid summers!

The seeds germinate in the spring after cold-moist stratification. I usually sow in late fall and leave the pots outdoors over the winter (with some protection, boxes under the snow, cold frame…).  In the first season, the seedlings don’t grow a lot, but then they will make a leap forward.
GA3 treatment is also an option if you want to start them in early spring indoors (beware the elongation of the seedlings though).

The few seeds of last year were sown, and with more plants around, hopefully the pollination and harvest of good seeds may increase. Plus, the more marvelous gentiana plants in the garden, the better!

On we go!
Gentiana paradoxa hybrids
Back in stock
Parnassia glauca
Delphinium exaltatum

The SEEDs LIST

Happy Thanksgiving to all Canadian customers!

I haven’t collected buttonbush seeds in many years. Most people prefer to purchase already grown shrubs and it is understandable. However, after seeing how nice and floriferous a small group of buttonbushes were looking despite the terrible drought, I had a change of heart. After all, most sources indicate that it is an easy to germinate species.

Cephalanthus occidentalis is a deciduous shrub with a rounded, open habit that can reach 3+ m (in optimal conditions), ie. wetlands, ponds and lakes edges, other wetland habitats. The more moisture it gets the larger it will grow.
The Buttonbush takes its common name from the round flower heads formed from many, small tubular flowers with exerted stamens. They flower gradually over a long period and are very fragrant! They attract many insects, especially long-tongue pollinators like bumblebees, butterflies, hummingbirds. The buttonbush is also a ‘honey plant’.
The fruiting heads take an attractive red color in late fall before seeds maturation; the fruits are 2-seeded nutlets (used as food by various waterfowls). So, it is one of those cases when we are actually sowing fruits, not seeds.

Good news is that the Buttonbush adapts well to growing in regular garden soil, except very dry locations. It just won’t grow that tall, which is actually a good thing for our gardens.

Teucrium canadense in early October

Another species recently added to the inventory that also prefers wet places but grows perfectly well in regular soil isTeucrium canadense , the American germander.
Same like the Buttonbush, it performed well during a very dry season, so we shouldn’t be afraid to grow it. I failed to take a picture at its peak flowering time, but believe me that the long flower spikes (light to deep pink) are attractive and good for pollinators. It does well in sun to part-shaded locations; some also call it Wood Salvia.

Speaking about wetland species that perform very well in regular garden conditions, the Carex grayi seeds inventory has also been replenished.

For the last species, Wild Calla, we would really need a small pond or other water feature to be able to grow it. Calla palustris is a great addition to a wetland area due to its handsome foliage, long flowering period and bright, red fruits in the fall. Most years the fruits are hard to reach, so I took advantage of the receding water on the margin of a pond this fall; those interested can now grow their own wild ‘exotic’ Calla! The seeds are kept moist to ensure  good germination.

Calla palustris (Wild Calla, Water Arum)

 

In the last few weeks I have been under the spell of peonies. Every time they flower, the wonder is anew.

Their flowers are most times fleeting (especially when we get 30C in May!), and there is little time to enjoy them. Most Paeonia species have flowered already, and I have had two very nice surprises: first, my first peony grown from seeds has flowered: a sweet P. mlokosewitchii. Second, a couple of divisions gifted to me by a dear friend, have also flowered: a chance cross of P. japonica and P. mascula (which were growing close toghether in her garden).

Paeonia japonica had the chance to flower just before the heat wave and it was superb! P. mascula, a bit late, was rushed through and the same happens now with P. tenuifolia and P. officinalis.

As I write, my only precious Paeonia rockii is in flower: what a peony!

“The peony is this big” / the child’s arms/ outstretched. – Issa

Paeonia anomala and P. lactiflora cultivars will follow shortly and there will be 2 more flowering surprises: a young P. officinalis ssp. huthii and a white tree peony (P. suffrutescens)! They were grown from seeds, and the satisfaction to see them reaching flowering stage can hardly be described.

There are even more peonies youngsters in the garden; each will flower in their own time. And the wonder will be anew…

Then the peonies
Extinguishing all others
Opened their petals.
              –  Basho

 

Well, here we are, the last day in the Pirin Mts. We disembark again from the shuttle at the Vihren hut keeping our eyes up and to the right toward Vihren peak; many others are doing just the same (best to avoid this trail in the weekends). Vihren hut is situated at the bottom of a deep valley below the east face of the massif.

Not everyone makes it to the peak from various reasons; bad weather is usually the main culprit. Vihren (2,914 m) is the highest peak of the Pirin Mts., also called by the locals the ‘Peak of Storms’ and the ‘Lightning-bringer’ (hint, hint…).

But the sun is shining for now so let’s go! – click to open the gallery with descriptions in every picture.

The weather can change very fast at higher altitude; always be prepared (rain coats and warm layer, hats,…). We made a cover from the ponchos and waited for a while. Luckily, the heavy rain stopped after half an hour, so we can proceed further.

Despite the bad weather that suddenly put a stop to the joyous picture taking, it was a successful day with superb mountain landscapes and many new/and familiar plants encountered. For those botanically inclined, I recommend to reserve 2 days for the Vihren climb and exploration.

I hope this was a sweet ‘taste’ of the Pirin Mts. The scenery is gorgeous, the flora rich and the people friendly, so there will be a return someday, hopefully in a near future!

If someone would have just one day available to hike in the area, I would recommend the trail to Muratov lake. This beautiful glacial lake is situated at 2209 m, near the Muratov and Hvoynati peaks (and few others).

Muratov lake in the Pirin Mts.

The trail is not very strenuous and there is so much to see along the way! Plus, there are many options to stray left and right from the trail to botanize and even to continue and explore further from Muratov Lake towards Sinanitza (if time allows or for backpackers). The adventurous and experienced hiker can also climb the Muratov Peak (2669m, nicknamed ‘little Vihren’).

The biggest surprise of the day trip was to find a patch of Crocus veluchensis still in flower among late melting snow at the base of an avalanche chute; for this reason I chose it for the featured image.

To Muratov! In a few words with every picture; click to open the gallery.

Next weekend we will attempt the Vihren peak and relish in a plethora of Saxifraga species.

A cloudy mid-January, lockdowns… I think we deserve a few virtual getaways. I searched the archive and it seems there are no postings from the Pirin Mts. Even if it was only a short trip taken a few years ago, it supplied more than enough pictures to entertain us in such days.

The Pirin Mts. in SW Bulgaria offer a multitude of short/long hiking routes, crossing superb flower meadows, rocky outcrops and glacial lakes. The flora is very rich, sharing elements with other south central European mountain ranges, but also including many endemic species.

You can easily have a ‘taste’ of the region in 4-5 days from a ‘base camp’ in the lovely Bansko. Mainly known as a winter resort, Bansko is a little, quiet town that looks almost deserted in late summer. So, you have the luxury to enjoy some fantastic mountain scenery and botanize, all at a much lower price than in any Alps and Dolomites resorts.

Enough talk, here we go. You don’t even need a car! Wake up in the morning and jump in the reliable shuttle which drives up and down to the Vihren hut every day (avoid the weekends because of the crowds). From there, a few day trips are available.
First, we’ll head for the Banderishki Lakes trail – click to open the gallery.

Tomorrow will hike to Muratovo Lake – Get ready :)

Aristolochia (Dutchman’s pipe) hardy species are not often seen cultivated in the gardens. It is a pity since they are quite interesting.
I wrote before that serepindity made it to grow successfully from seeds two such species: Aristolochia iberica and Aristolochia steupii, both hailing from the Caucasus and surrounding regions.

They are both deciduous, trailing vines of deciduous forests, short in stature though, with ‘pipe-like’ typical flowers (hence the generic name Dutchman’s pipe) along upright leafy stems produced in late spring. The flowers are not large, but they are so unusual they make you want looking at them again, and again…The flowers have hairs which will guide and shortly trap insects, but this doesn’t mean they are carnivorous. The pollinators find their way out after performing the ‘required’ task.

Aristolochia iberica: mature capsule showing the seeds. The seeds germinate best when sown fresh or moist packed

The fruits are egg-shaped, hard capsules which will split and release the seeds on short notice. The seeds bear resemblance to those of other species from the family, like Asarum and Saruma. Like ways, their seeds also require a slightly warm/cold cycle for proper germination; if they get very dry the germination rate is greatly reduced.

Another hardy Dutchman’s pipe is our native Aristolochia durior, which grows tall and needs a support or can ‘hang on’ to a nearby tree. I still have to add this one to the garden.

Meanwhile, even if the spring has been cold and capricious, Aristolochia iberica has produced a few capsules &  good seeds.
Those who want to grow something cool, that almost no one else has, give it a try. Show it off to your garden friends as a ‘rarity’ :)

The seeds will become available on Friday, together with few other moist packed seeds.

They are species for the woodland garden, part sun/shade works best (morning sun), in locations with good, rich substrate where you would water during dry spells. They can be good companions for: Saruma henryi, Asarum, Hepatica acutiloba, evergreen Epimediums, Podophyllum, Helleborus, to mention the few that are in my garden bed; also Arisaema ssp. Uvularia, Trilliums, Hydrastis and so on….
Hold your breath because Hydrastis canadensis seeds will also be available soon!

*Although Aristolochia species have been employed for medicinal purpose to treat various ailments, due to the mutagenic properties of the aristolochic acid (found in all plants of this family), today it is advised not to use any preparations based on Aristolochia species.

While waiting for Hepatica seeds to drop into the catching bags, ;) we can admire two dwarf Polygala species. I’m a big fan of Polygalas.

From the garden, flowering for the first time: Polygala amarella, the dwarf milkwort. This is a European species growing on limestone grasslands, slopes and rock ledges, up to subalpine level.

Polygala amarella, cultivated (grown from seeds wild coll. Carpathian Mts)

From our woods: Polygala paucifolia, the gaywings. I showed it many times but it flashes for attention, flowering more or less at the same time with Trillum grandiflorum. It is growing on deciduous and mixed forests, in part-shaded, slightly moist locations.

Polygala paucifolia in wild habitat

Polygala species are not difficult to grow from seeds, it is just that the seeds are very hard to “catch” and thus always in short supply; then the seedlings are best grown in the community pot for 2 years. Flowering can start in the third year and is very rewarding. Polygala vulgaris and P. major are also in line to flower this summer — it doesn’t get any better!

Timeline for Hepatica seeds: collecting maybe in the first week of June.
The offerings are taking shape in the Seeds Shop – check out the Hepatica category; final price/seeds per pck. will be established after collecting.

 

 

Even if just for my own pleasure and occasional exchanges with friends, I like to give names to special plants that are obtained from seeds. I don’t spend time thinking for a name; they just dawn on me after a while always in relation with the person who provided the seeds, the origin of the seeds or some important event associated with the flowering, or a special color.

This Corydalis caucasica ex. fo. alba grown from seeds flowered first time last year and now it seems established in the garden. Not fo. alba anymore, even better! I particularly like the mauve lips in combination with the pure white spurs; one of my favorite color combinations, and not only for Corydalis. Its color starts deeper and becomes lighter as the flowers age.

So, I named it ‘Nadezhda’: to remind me of all of the above and about springtime in time of a Covid crisis. (Nadezhda in Russian = Hope in English)

Corydalis caucasica ‘Nadezhda’

Happy Easter Holidays to all celebrating at this time!

 

What do they have in common? Nothing, only that both deterred me from finishing the article on transplanting Hepatica seedlings.

But I don’t want to waste the occasion on showing something about Roscoea scillifolia fo. atropurpurea while I still can. As soon as possible it will be planted in the garden; just couldn’t figure out a proper space for it last year.

Shown here – the way the rhizomes like to bury deep into the pot (the same happens in the ground) and the distinctive ‘whiskers’ around the apical buds of R. scillifolia fo. atropurpurea (a good ID character ;).

Roscoea scillifolia fo. atropurpurea rhizomes; notice how they went deep into the tall pot during growth. The pot was kept in the garage over the winter (no watering).

If you grew Roscoea from seeds and/or have 3-4 years old rhizomes, they can be planted in the ground in late spring. Please read again: Contractile roots- a journey to the centre of the earth where I mentioned why and when this is best done (in a cold climate).

*Keep in mind that most Roscoea are showing up late in the season and more than this, R. scillifolia fo. atropurpurea has small flowers, so it needs a proper location in order to enjoy it.

Roscoea scillifolia fo. atropurpurea flowering in the summer

** The slugs are active now and careful watching for damage signs can help in early detection to avoid further damage to the seedlings and plants. It takes time but worth doing it.

Many articles have been published regarding the relationship between the intra/interspecific variation of floral organs and the primary pollinators, and not only for Aquilegia.
So, it seems a bit superfluous to repeat that the length of the nectary spurs in Aquilegia species is an adaptation that has evolved to match the feeding structures of their pollinators (bees, hummingbirds,…and not only). The spurs development is achieved purely through cell-shape anisotropy.

In the case of Aquilegia ecalcarata, the spurless columbine, according to various sources the main pollinators are syrphid flies (with short feeding structures). Not having spurs, doesn’t make it a ‘false’ aquilegia; it is just a classic example of “use it or lose it” evolutionary syndrome :+)

A few studies using ancestral character reconstruction of pollination  syndromes have shown  that  the  ancestor  of  the  genus was pollinated  by  bees/bumblebees (see notes).*
Aquilegia ecalcarata it is the only species that has lost its spurs.


Aquilegia ecalcarata Maximowicz, was reconsidered for a while under the name/genus of Semiaquilegia ecalcarata (Maximowicz) Sprague & Hutchinson; S. ecalcarata f. semicalcarata Schipczinski; S. simulatrix J. R. Drummond & Hutchinson.

Things have changed and, the genus Semiaquilegia Makino, is now recognized as a sister genus to Aquilegia (based on petal evolution and geographical affinities). It includes tuberous , herbaceous plants which differ from the genus Aquilegia L.

To set the record straight, we should use only the name Aquilegia ecalcarata. In keeping with my good sowing tradition for Aquilegia, I just treated a few seeds with GA3 500 ppm solution.** Sowing will follow tomorrow (cold/moist stratification for 1-2 months works very well, I just want to start them early).

* Extended phylogeny of Aquilegia: the bio-geographical and ecological patterns of two simultaneous but contrasting radiations:
http://www.plant-animal.es/pdfs/Bastida.et.al.2010.Pl.Syst.Evol.pdf

**For those in need, a reminder that they can read about GA3 preparation and utilisation on the Germination page: here

By tradition in February I start the so called ‘warm sowings’: species that will germinate at room temperature. The seedlings are grown under lights indoors and by April/early May can already be acclimatize outdoors; in most cases, they are planted in the ground shortly after.

It is also a time when warm germinating species are re-tested for germination. Most species keep good germination rates for +/- 5 years (kept dry/cold) but there is no data available for all.

So, I considered necessary to re-test Ephedra distachya. It seems that the seeds are in good standing, starting to germinate in water in a few days. For those interested – the seeds are back in stock! If you want to grow something beautifully ‘different’, this species is for you.

Watch its journey from seeds to young plants in the plate below. This Ephedra likes hot summers, and it was no surprise that after a slow start in May/June (rainy & cold in 2019), has put up a nice growth from August till late fall.

Ephedra distachya 2019 journey from seeds to young plants in the ground; a reminder that it is a dioecious species – keep and grow a few seedlings for assurance of female/male plants ratio

The ‘warm games’ are declared open at BotanyCa; stay tuned for more seeds/seedlings happenings!

Let’s indulge in few ‘exotic’ late June flowers today. Roscoea species, regardless if they come with small or larger flowers, always bring a ‘tropical’ look to our cold climate gardens.

They are not difficult to grow from seeds, only require patience and I’m happy that more local customers have taken advantage of the seeds offered. Mature plants can be quite expensive when available and I consider that younger tubers will adapt better when planted in the ground.
I gave advice about planting them in this post: Contractile roots – a journey to the center of the earth?.

The tiny R. tibetica fo. atropurpurea fits better in a rockery nook or a container planting. The plant shown below close to Hepatica acutiloba is the result of a ‘location’ experiment; the Hepatica leaf is good for size scale!.

Clockwise: Roscoea scillifolia fo. atropurpurea (small but striking dark purple flowers), striped Roscoea cautleyoides form, Roscoea cautleyoides ‘Kew Beauty’ (flowers of a delicious creamy color) and the tiny Roscoea tibetica fo. atropurpurea ex. B-15 (seeds offered some years)

Here’s a better look at R. tibetica fo. atropurpurea:

OK, few pictures of sunny spring days will do good for a dark and rainy (icy for some) late December. Regular readers here will observe that there is a new one added to the collection!
More, including tubers pictures and how to easily grow them (yes, I will repeat it many times), next time.

All pictures: forms of Corydalis solida and Corydalis malkensis.

Corydalis solida

 

Corydalis malkensis