Spring beauties I: Claytonia and Lindera

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Besides Hepatica, quite a few other spring beauties are usually in flower in April.

Claytonia virginica

The one which literally bears this common name: Claytonia virginica, is a short lived ephemeral. After enchanting us with its cheerful flowers it will retreat in the ground for the rest of the season. It certainly needs a long beauty sleep!
Others though, will remain and provide beauty, shade, shelter and food for the wildlife until late fall.

Among the first native shrubs to flower in our woodlands is Lindera benzoin, the Northern spicebush.

If hiking in moist woods early in the spring and notice a yellow tinge among the otherwise bare trees branches, it is for sure Lindera benzoin in flower (reason why another common name for it is Forsythia of the wilds). It usually grows as an understory small tree/large shrub on bottomland woodlands and river edges. The yellow flowers appear in small ‘bunches’ (there are female & males plants) and are a sign of the long awaited spring being very useful to early pollinators!

Lindera benzoin it is one of the first native shrubs/small tree to flower in the spring; it can be grown in a partly shaded location as a large specimen (by planting few plants together) or in small groups for larger woodland gardens

Northern spicebush puts its best show in early fall when the foliage turns yellow, making a wonderful background for the shiny red, abundant fruits. The fruits provide food for countless birds in the fall, but are always in great abundance and some are always left to be admired. In the garden, you need female and male plants growing together in order to have fruits..

Lindera benzoin, September

Lindera benzoin, fall

The fleshy part of the fruits was/it is chopped and utilized as an allspice (hence the name). The foliage is also aromatic and the leaves and twigs were used to prepare a tea. Not least important, the Spicebush is a favourite larval host for the beautiful Spicebush swallowtail and Promethea silkmoth!

About fruits, seeds and germination:

The seeds are hydrophilic and need to be sown right after collecting or kept moist. After a period of cold/moist stratification they will germinate promptly in the spring (see the post: A late arrival – Lindera benzoin seedlings).

Lindera benzoin, Northern spicebush fruits & seeds

Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix explained

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Last spring I stumbled upon a most beautiful Hepatica acutiloba population I called pastel mix based on the fact that, on a relatively small area, many plants with various flower colours were growing together: white, light pink, pink striped and lilac/light-purple.
Because the specimens are mixed it would be almost impossible to collect seeds individually, and even so, would they come completely true from seeds? Maybe not. Reason why it was offered as the ‘pastel mix’.

Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix population

In the rush and excitement of the spring I only wrote a short post about it. I also forgot to mention that most of them are fragrant, especially those with pink & white flowers. There are also a few specimens showing a tendency to form multipetal flowers.

Quite a few people took advantage and purchased seeds (moist packed and at a good price too!) but still, some remained and germinated in the Ziploc bags by late winter. Excellent germination!

Hepatica acutiloba (H. americana too) most often appear growing in deciduous woods as localized populations. Sometimes you can walk for hours in frustration not to find one plant.
These grouped populations are most likely the result of the way seeds are dispersed by ants (not at long distances), and/or the fact that others will germinate falling close to the mother plants.
Rarely all the plants are of the same colour; also the foliage and flowers can be variable (width/numbers of the tepals, lobes length and shape).


This is good. It means genetic diversity and the fact that in successive generations more interesting forms are bound to appear.
So, don’t be shy to grow from seeds plants of this population. You may never know what you will see flowering 3-4 years later! Anything similar with these would be desirable (click to open the gallery):

Proof of the genetic variability – walking a bit further in the same area the other day, a specimen with light purple, star-like flowers showed up!

Hepatica acutiloba ‘Purple Star’ (it needed a name :)

Hepatica acutiloba page has been updated  (see there another H. acutiloba that was in need of a name).

Friday’s seedlings – skunk cabbage

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Same of the readers may remember that last fall there was a little ‘accident’ with some of the skunk cabbage seeds: they have started to germinate unexpectedly in the moist vermiculite in October (without a cold period – Friday’s-germinated-seeds).
I was planning to return them to their muddy place but cold weather settled in very early, so they remained planted in a pot in the garage.

Symplocarpus foetidus emerging in early spring (in the dark, reason why a bit etiolated)

Spring came, and it is time to take them back to live with their parents. The roots are not too long yet and it’s just a matter of sticking them into the mud.

I can show on a picture from another year what’s the size of the seedlings roots right now.
They are not fast growers, that’s for sure!

Friday’s seedlings – this & that

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A bit of everything today from the indoors seedlings; the outdoors sowings usually start to germinate with the increase of temperatures in late April/May.

Just pricked out: Thermopsis villosa (syn. T. caroliniana, Carolina lupine).
I thought to give it a try this year with the hot water method. Super-easy, some seeds will even start to germinate in the water if you forget about them ;). Rarely seen in the gardens: why? A beautiful leguminous species with yellow lupine-like inflorescences.

The time has also come to prick out the Bukiniczia cabulica seedlings – this is the size when I’ll do it (about 1 month old).

Bukiniczia cabulica seedlings (seeds sown on March 1st)

Update on Erythronium grandiflorum: which is germinating  under lights. The conditions are not ideal because it is a bit too warm and the seedlings start growing too fast and elongate (the sowings outdoors will grow better).

Erythronium grandiflorum seedlings (warm/cold cycles, seeds kept moist)

Until next, a picture with an unexpectedly green apparition in the garden, at a time when only few Crocus and snowdrops are flowering: Papaver bracteatum (seeds sown in the garden last summer). We’ll talk more about poppies and direct sowing in the ground soon.

Papaver bracteatum (April 3, 2019)

 

Warm or cold?

This is the question….Delphinium nudicaule and Iris suaveolens B17Dob make an odd pair for a post but the germination info has to be updated  for both.

Delphinium nudicaule: I wrongly assumed it would be a warm germinator last fall; sorry about this.
My little pot sat under the lights for a few weeks with no action. What to do now? There are two options:

  1. Keep the pot outdoors in your pile of all others 2+ years germinators (I have quite a few of them).
  2. If you don’t have such a pile, place it in the fridge (enclosed in a plastic bag/box to avoid desiccation).

    Cold-moist stratification provided in the fridge

Usually I would do the first and let nature take its course but being a new species for the shop and without reliable info, I want to see precisely how much cold it needs. It went in the fridge as of April 1st (together with few other species).

If you go the ‘fridge way’ don’t forge to mark the date and to open the bag and check the pots periodically.

 

Iris suaveolens B17Dob (offered in the fall/winter of 2017)

With some Irises it is more complicated: many species won’t germinate simply because they have very hard seed coats. Cold/warm cycles will wear down the seed coat and allow the water imbibition and emergence of the radicle. But this doesn’t mean that the species ‘requires’ a cold period, i.e. has a physiological dormancy; often the lines are blurred.

Although I sowed my seeds in early fall (2017), they didn’t germinate in the spring of last year (2018). I don’t know if they will germinate this spring either. All I know is that the seeds are good (viable) and like in the case of many Iris species, it is the hard seed coat that delays the germination.

In late January I tried the ‘forced method’ recommended for aril irises on a small sample of Iris suaveolens B17Dob – not having experience, I destroyed most seeds but one I got right and it’s enough to prove the point: the seeds have a very hard tegument but otherwise it would be a warm germinator (probably like many others). You can open the link to read about this method: http://files.srgc.net/general/ForcedArilIrisGermination.pdf
Remains to see how long it will take for the seeds sown outdoors to germinate.

Conclusion: I emphasize again the advice that gets sent with all seeds orders: “keep your pots for at least 2(3) years”.
It can happen that even species known to germinate at warm or cold will decide not to do it. The collection site/region/mother-plant and few other factors can influence the patterns of the germination.

 

Friday’s seedlings – Aquilegia

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Every year I sow a few Aquilegia species indoors to give them a bit of extra growth time. New species, some to repeat, there are always plenty of seeds to choose from. It is always good to go back to basics.

1. Aquilegia canadensis – short form: I need a new one; last year I put the spade through it by mistake.

2. Aquilegia fragrans: time to see how a fragrant Aquilegia actually smells (old seeds from a seedex).

3. Aquilegia chaplinei: young plants have been devoured last year by the columbine sawfly, twice! This is a lovely dwarf version of A. chrysantha, with delicate bluish-green foliage and yellow flowers with extremely long spurs. I love long spurred Aquilegias!

4. Aquilegia vitalii: from few remaining old seeds; I have a young plant outdoors but who knows after this harsh winter…..

There are also a few A. scopulorum seedlings; I never seem to have enough plants to be able to offer seeds and it’s a pity (Alien vs. Predators).
Last year I grew A. alpina again and A. olympica so there should be a lot of new blues this summer. Not that I can complain, Aquilegia nigricans does a fine job in this regard.

Note: keep your eyes open for the columbine sawfly (Pristiphora rufipes) in late spring.
Last year I had the unfortunate occasion to discover that the larvae, which look like green caterpillars, can consume the entire foliage of one plant in a blink of an eye!
They are hard to notice being green but not difficult to pick up by hand if noticed on time (spraying with insecticidal soap should also work if necessary).
Also, do not believe there is only one generation/year like they say; it depends on the climate.

Contractile roots – a journey to the center of the earth?

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The repotting of Chinese Podophyllums and Roscoea always brings to mind the contractile roots, and Jules Verne’s story ;) It is time to talk about them.

So, what’s with these contractile roots?
Many species from various families and growing in a whole range of habitats are equipped with such roots. By contracting they pull down the plant at the depth considered optimal by the species.

They particularly play a role in good plant anchorage. Also, for many bulbous/tuberous and rhizomatous species they adjust the depth of these organs in the ground where they will be protected from extreme temperatures/drought; another function is to protect the apical buds from being destroyed.

As soon as possible the Podophyllum shown below will be planted out; I felt sorry seeing the long contractile roots circled at the bottom of the container. I have to give it the freedom to go deep down in the ground.

Podophyllum delavayi (syn. Dysosma) grown in a large container – notice the contractile roots, most often they have a cord-like appearance and are unbranched. Imagine how much deeper they would have like to go if planted in the ground!

Roscoea cautleyoides – purple form

It is my opinion that these roots also have a practical implication in regards to planting.

Over the years I noticed that all the Arisaema sp. and Roscoea I planted in the ground in early summer did fine, even if some species are not considered truly hardy for the zone 5. I am sure this is because they had time to go deep down to their desired depth before the cold season started.

Planting too late means that the roots won’t have time to settle at the proper depth, with a possible negative outcome.
Many times we attribute the loss of plants to the fact that they are not hardy, or the drainage wasn’t good enough, and so on….

Conclusion: plant your Roscoea, Chinese Podophyllums and Arisaema species in the ground as soon as possible and no later than June I would say (in a cold, continental climate); if not possible, keep them in pots and wait until next year.
Also, do not grow them in pots longer than necessary, they like to go in exploration towards the center of the earth!

 

Another practical implication when growing these species from seeds: use taller pots, even the young seedlings like to have space for ‘deep’ exploration; it’s in their nature.

Few other Roscoea tubers pictures – the invasion of the Roscoea? :0

* All plants shown in the pictures have been grown from seeds.

You may also want to read – Hunker Down and Hold On: Contractile Roots Give Skunk Cabbage Another Special Trait.

Notes on Erythronium germination II

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An update to the first notes on Erythronium germination from Feb. 9.

Erythronium grandiflorum seeds have started to germinate in moist storage (fridge) last week; they were kept moist through a warm, then cold cycle. I have another pot sown outdoors in late summer; a small sample of seeds was kept on purpose in the fridge to note the germination start.

Erythronium grandiflorum (Glacier lily) germination start (mid March, in the fridge)

And this is how the Erythronium americanum seedlings look right now (under indoor lights). Those who sowed the seeds outdoors should expect the seedlings in late March/April, depending on the weather (they will have a more natural look like in the featured image).

Erythronium americanum (Trout lily) seedlings March 2019 (germinated indoors reason why a bit elongated)

Spring must be coming! And, as usual, it will be fast and furious.
So, I will let you know now what will happen next with the Erythronium seedlings.
They will keep growing for a few months (water well, may use a diluted fertilizer). As some point, they’ll decide to go dormant. Don’t be scared, it is normal. When you notice the foliage starting to yellow, reduce the watering. Keep your pot in a shaded location (cover with a mesh to deter critters from digging, if this applies) and water only once in a while.

You can see in the plate how one year old tubers may look more or less, depending how well you grow them (mine were crowded in the pot).
I made this plate one year ago to show the similarity between the tubers and the seeds (size and shape wise). Interesting, isn’t it?

You can keep raising them in pots for a couple of more years and then plant them in the garden.
I personally plant them out after just one season in pot; nature can take its course after that. The only other Erythronium species I raised from fresh seeds, E. dens-canis, follows the same pattern.

There is so much more to learn about Erythronium and it’s easily done. Anyone can read and/or download Ian Young’s e-book: Erythroniums in Cultivation. Find it here: http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=15212.0

 

 

Notes on Erythronium germination I (from February 9, 2019)

Just a note for those who purchased Erythronium americanum seeds last year (that was a nice crop) – the seeds kept in moist storage at cold (fridge) are germinating! Luckily that I had to look for other moist packed seeds for an order.
Depending where you are, temperature wise, this may be happening in your pot right now! Exciting :)

Erythronium americanum germinating seeds Feb.9 2019

E. grandiflorum seeds are looking OK but no signs of germination yet, after all they were collected much later than E. americanum. I’ll keep you posted.
More sowing to do….

New update: Erythronium grandiflorum seeds germinated well, both in pots and also the seeds that were sown directly in the garden! Sowing Erythronium fresh seeds or seeds that have been kept moist packed it is the ‘secret’ for good germination. Growing the seedlings and having them reach a flowering stage, it is another story…
Most Erythronium species enjoy a moist location (at least for start of the season); trying to grow them in a dry location never gives good results.

Quick note on Calochortus leichtlinii germination

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The first seeds of Calochortus leichtlinii (moist/cold stratified in the fridge) are emerging the radicles.
I noticed them since last week with a magnifying glass and they are big enough now for a picture. I don’t know if they really have to be kept at cold until the radicles start growing but best to be sure (about 10 weeks of cold/moist stratification).

Calochortus leichtlinii seeds starting to germinate after 2.5 months of cold/moist stratification

Calochortus tolmiei seedlings are already above ‘ground’! (vermiculite in this case).

Calochortus tolmiei seedlings

 

Mea culpa – Paeonia brownii germination

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Before the FAQ on pre-ordering, mea culpa for providing wrong advice regarding Paeonia brownii germination.
Seeds arrived at a very busy time last fall (not that this should be an excuse), and after a quick search I wrongly assumed they require a warm cycle for root protruding followed by a cold one for shoot growing, like many other peony species.

I also followed this line of thought and kept my seeds in moist storage at room temperature starting mid-October. By January I felt something was not right and at the beginning of February I put the Ziploc bag containing the seeds in the fridge. One month later few of them already show cracked teguments!

Paeonia brownii seeds after 1 month of cold-moist stratification (fridge)

Good information IS available on the subject if one looks well enough and uses some critical thinking. I am sure that an AI would have come with the right advice in a split second.
Paeonia brownii seeds require 2-3 months of cold/moist stratification in order to germinate.

Those who received seeds last year please click to read the pdf below; better even, download it for your files. It contains a plant profile for Paeonia brownii with everything you need to know. It mentions that the young roots are sensitive, so as soon as I’ll notice the roots growing I will take one more picture, plant them in pots in a well-drained mix, and continue to provide the remaining cold period as such.

Paeonia brownii: distribution, ecology, propagation, cultivation

There is much talk about AI writing these days; I even answered recently a short questionnaire for someone working in AI development, looking to better understand the problems of products/content writing process encountered by on-line businesses.
No doubt, the time will come when they will do all the work for us: faster and competently.

Until then, I shall be excused for continuing to make humanly mistakes.
Who knows, maybe in the future this will remain a ‘signature’ of our writings.
They will inherently contain, somewhere, somehow, an error. 
A tiny mark of our beautifully flawed human nature.

FAQ – Moist packed seeds

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Many NA native species, especially spring flowering, are included in the ‘moist packed seeds‘ category (see also Corydalis & allies category). By late spring this category is almost depleted of available seeds (with exception of Caulophyllum sometimes) because the seeds not sold out during the fall/early winter season, will start to germinate in moist storage. You will find these species listed in green in the SEED LIST.

FAQ
Why are moist packed seeds not available year round?

Because in the eventuality they are not sold out, they start to germinate in moist storage.
Even if large quantities were to be collected, shipping past due germination dates would not be possible.

When do they start to germinate?
Depending on the species, it can happen as early as November (Paris quadrifolia and Asarum canadense) and December (Claytonia) and then gradually till February-March (most other species). In many cases ‘germination’ refers to roots only, with a another cycle of cold or warm/cold required  for complete germination.

When is it best to purchase moist packed species?

As soon as they are announced available in the Shop (please subscribe to the blog) or at any time before they start to germinate or temperatures drop below zero (in the winter), at which point they cannot be shipped safely.
To be on the sure side, I would consider June (for the first species available) and  September/October/early November the ideal times; the seeds are active physiologically and shipping them during deep freezes in the winter can be detrimental.

Various species with limited seeds on offer (most often) sell out fast (Claytonia, Hepatica forms) and it is best to buy them as soon as they are announced in the shop, starting in late May/June, (depending  on the weather).

To facilitate a faster shipping (and easier sowing) the first such fresh seeds of the season are being shipped packed only in glassine envelopes. which are included in plastic bags (with no vermiculite). The method was tested and works very well for the month of June. Later in the summer/fall, the seeds will be shipped in moist vermiculite.
Hepatica seeds are sold in this manner ONLY for a short period after collecting, in June.

For those new to the “moist packing” subject, these postings may answer other questions:
Moist packing – what’s that?
We got the moist packed seeds – now what?

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Seeds collecting in February?

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Yes, it is possible especially if you don’t pay good attention in late fall.

Somehow I didn’t notice the first fruit produced by Calycanthus until last Saturday! It flowered beautifully last spring and then a few green fruits were aborted during late summer. I thought that was it and didn’t pay attention afterwards.
A nice surprise; I received the young plant three years ago from a friend and it was very satisfying for both of us to see it fruitful :)

Calycanthus floridus (Carolina allspice) is an excellent native shrub which can be grown in many situations from sun to shade; fast growing with beautiful shiny foliage, it is rarely affected by any pests. Did I forget to mention the sweetly fragrant, burgundy flowers?
The fruit is an interesting large, brown capsule, which can be mistaken with a fallen leaf/small branch, and holds few large seeds. They are very easy to germinate (read about nicking) and show up with convoluted cotyledon leaves (a rare case).


Speaking NA natives, I put together a short list of other species which flower around the same time in mid April-May, and are suitable for cold climates. They all grow in the same bed with the Calycanthus. If only I would have more space….
T. cuneatum, T. luteum, Uvularia grandiflora, Mitella diphylla, Asarum canadense, Hepatica acutiloba, Trautvetteria caroliniensis

Trillium cuneatum

Trillium luteum

Mitella diphylla1

Asarum canadense

Uvularia grandiflora