OK, few pictures of sunny spring days will do good for a dark and rainy (icy for some) late December. Regular readers here will observe that there is a new one added to the collection!
More, including tubers pictures and how to easily grow them (yes, I will repeat it many times), next time.
All pictures: forms of Corydalis solida and Corydalis malkensis.
Corydalis solida
Corydalis malkensis
It may become a tradition to publish revised notes on Aconitum germination around Christmas time every year; it only depends if new species will be available for trial-outs! My thanks to those making this study possible. Read HERE the starting notes on Aconitum germination.
Again, Aconitum comprises many species which are (in general) difficulty to germinate if the seeds were stored dry, some even after short periods of dry storing. But some species are more recalcitrant than others, and that’s what this study tries to looks at, including the effect of GA3 on improving the germination.
These are the main germination tables revised, Dec. 2019
The conclusion from last winter sowings is that Aconitum moldavicum and Aconitum hemsleyanum are difficult to germinate species even after a relatively short period of storing the seeds dry. It remains to be seen if some of the seeds will germinate in the second spring after sowing.
From the recently sown species there are moist packed seeds to share of Aconitum japonicum
Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix – seeds are starting to germinate! Together with the Aconitum they can be ordered via – Fast shipping option.
Shipping will resume after Dec. 26
Few species with small size seeds
Talking alpines species which usually have fine seeds, I will show a trick for sowing.
As everyone knows, fine seeds require light for germination and they need to be covered lightly; perlite is a good choice, easy to find at almost any garden centre.
But not only I cover the seeds with perlite, I also lay a fine perlite layer on top of the sowing mix and water it lightly before spreading the seeds; this way the seeds will stick to the perlite and not get drawn deep into the mix ;) You can also use vermiculite in the same way.
I would say this is very important for warm germinators. For cold germinators, which will receive their cold/moist stratification outdoors, the light requirement is often replaced by the cold treatment, so you can use regular sowing mix for covering.
Especially when placed outdoors for cold/moist stratification it is good to enclose the pots in a plastic bag/Ziploc/plastic box. The small seeds are easily displaced because of the light mix covering and starting spring with the raise in temperatures, they can also dry out very fast; even a short period of dryness can be fatal if it happens at the exact moment of the germination start.
About Kernera saxatilis, or to use the common French name which is very suggestive: Kernéra des rochers.
This lovely rock garden species offered in the seeds-gift is hailing from mountain ranges of Southern and Central Europe. Generally it is overlooked by many and I feel I should promote it more.
You can find a nook for this delicate species in any rockery, big or small, trough, containers or any other planting holders. The small white flowers will appear on an elongated flower stems in the spring, and will be followed by ornamental beads-like fruits.
It gets even better because the leaves rosettes remain evergreen, a most desirable trait in any cold climate – pictured here in November 30th.
Kernera saxatilis leaves rosettes end of November; these are still young plants which will increase in size over the years.
Did I mention that it is very easy to germinate and grow?
Frilly pink with the long gone fragrance of June summer days – sounds about right for Wednesday.
Have a great one everyone!
It seems that we will have a white week. But it is so easy to make it flower-colorful!
Since Acinos alpinus seeds were packed for few last orders I thought “A” + purple would be perfect for Monday; plus, we can feel the high altitude summer sun!
Acinos alpinus (syn. Calamintha alpina) – an easy to grow species in a rock garden, edge of a flower border; sun and good drainage.
Acinos alpinus – go wild and combine it with any other color!
October ended with a nice surprise. Roscoea schneideriana has flowered beautifully this year and in all honesty I didn’t expect any seeds; it was enough to see it thriving in the garden. Then, one day I noticed that one capsule had burst open and the seeds spilled on the ground.
Roscoea schneideriana with split capsule and seeds in late October
It is always very rewarding when a plant started from seeds reaches the point of flowering well and produces seeds! And Roscoea schneideriana is a special one, with characters a bit unique in its genus (to mention just the leaves arrangement, the length of the staminodes and the round anther appendages). It grows wild in Western China (Sichuan and Yunnan), in mixed forests, open limestone slopes, among rocks and ledges of mountains between 2600-3350 m alt. (from The Genus Roscoea, Jill Cowley).
Roscoea schneideriana flowering in early September; notice the round anther appendages, a good ID character for this species
I know that most people in our climate avoid growing hardy gingers, but they are not difficult to start from seeds.
Most species are warm germinators, or will germinate after a short period of cold/moist stratification (1 month). So, you can sow and start them under lights indoors in February/March, or directly outdoors in April/May (depending on the region).
In the first year the seedlings grow for a few months and then become dormant; do not overwater when dormant. They should be grown in the same pot for 2 years at least until the little tubers can be handled more easily.
As you will see, they form fleshy, elongated tubers which need a bit of extra attention for a couple of years (in most cases I overwinter them in pots in the garage). After that you can plant them in the garden (in a part-shaded, well drained location) and you’re done!
Growing from seeds you always get to play with few seedlings not just one plant, and you can experiment with planting in various locations. I find they are much easier to establish when planting young tubers than fully grown plants. They can get fast to the soil depth of their liking and survive better our harsh winters.
One more thing: don’t wait for them to emerge at spring time. They sit underground chit chatting with the Arisaemas and both forget it is time to show up. And then they all do it in a big hurry!
You can also read about R. auriculata below (the Earth octopus). It also flowered well but no seeds. Maybe next year :)
If for some reason there is someone who doesn’t have at least one Arisaema in the garden, then there is Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense to consider.
Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense is my longest lived Arisaema in the ground, and I’m in love with it. I was a bit in doubt if liubaense until I had to move it and sow the stoloniferous tubers (one difference from A. ciliatum).
It shows up late, somewhere in mid-June and then, in a blink of an eye, purple flowers will peak curiously at you from underneath the umbrella-like leaf. Commonly they are called Cobra lilies but don’t be afraid they are super friendly.
Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense 2019
A nice surprise this year, they showed up in pair and now we have babies :)
It is amazing how fast the fruit matured from green to red in about one week.
Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense fruit
Also to consider: Arisaema amurense, A. flavum and our lovely NA A. triphyllum. All super cold hardy and easy to grow.
A note I considered useful to write before adding the seeds of peony species to the Shop.
Most seasoned gardeners who grow peonies from seeds are well acquainted with the phenomenon of hybridization, a natural process occurring in many species, not just the peonies.
Very simple, it means that when there are other peonies present in the garden, the resulting seedlings may not entirely resemble the plant that produced the seeds (differences can be noted in foliage/flowers). Some species can also hybridize in the wild, when 2 different species grow together in the same area.
A few peony species are known to hybridize more than others (P. peregrina, P. daurica s.l.).
There is no guarantee how the seedlings will look like. The only guarantee is that the seeds were collected from specimens identified and named, as best as possible, based on their botanical characters.
Personally, I will continue to grow them from seeds of different accessions/species because in the end the goal is to obtain good, beautiful plants adapted to your garden conditions. I still have to see an ‘ugly’ peony grown from seeds. Have you?
This is a list with links to the current offerings; 2 pck./order max. please. Click on the names for links to each product page.
Paeonia japonica (as usual)
Paeonia obovata (new accession)
Paeonia wittmanniana hybrid1
Paeonia wittmanniana hybrid2
Paeonia peregrina
Paeonia tenuifolia
Paeonia officinalis
Paeonia officinalis hybrid, new
Paeonia mlokosewitchii (as usual)
Available somewhere next week:
Paeonia rockii
Paeonia delavayi
Paeonia anomala
Young Paeonia mlokosewitchii in my garden, it may flower to be a ‘true’ mlokosewitchii or not, I couldn’t care less…
This fall we got lucky: not only Disporum uniflorum has set fruits but I also got to them before the squirrels did (I suppose one of them was guilty for breaking the stems last year).
A simply gorgeous plant all year long; if I would really have to choose only 3 plants for a part- shade location Disporum uniflorum would be on top of the list.
Few pictures are better than a thousand words…
Disporum uniflorum flowering in my old and new garden
It can also be combined with the American fairy bells, Uvularia grandiflora which flowers at the same time, Helleborus, Trilliums, various Primulas, woodland peonies ;)… to mention just a few.
Dark blue fruits are developing later (not too many, there is a little problem with self-pollination) but even the non-fertilized fruits get dark blue contrasting nicely with the yellowing foliage in mid-September.
Moist- packed seeds sown asap will germinate in late spring (in translation: the requirement for germination is a slightly warm period followed by cold); the seedlings are easy going.
Disporum uniflorum, fall color, fruits, fresh seeds and seedlings :)
In the Seeds shop now right now: Disporum uniflorum
One pck./order please because there aren’t too many and from moist packed seeds germination is 100%. If someone wants to place an order in combination with a friend, let me know please: Contact.
Later in the afternoon – the peonies….stay tuned.
It is always a joyful moment to see various species grown from seeds flowering for the first time. No matter if they are common or ‘rare’ species, natives or not, they bring a different feeling than those acquired from a garden center.
Flowering first time from the shaded side of the garden:
Podophyllum hexandrum (syn. Sinopodophyllum)
Podophyllum hexandrum, Himalayan mayapple
Triosteum pinnatifidum, a species grown for its beautiful foliage and fruits; the flowers are not showy but without them we wouldn’t have fruits ;)
Triosteum pinnatifidum
Lathyrus vernus, grown from own wild collected seeds, which adds to the satisfaction!
Lathyrus vernus
Other species that flowered for the first time in early spring in the shade were: Helleborus purpurascens and Pachyphragma macrophyllum.
Helleborus purpurascens (from wild collected seeds, Carpathian Mts.)
Pachyphragma macrophyllum
More to come. And let’s not forget the sunny side!
A picture with Viola jooi from last week to keep us going through another cold & rainy day.
Viola joy!
Viola jooi, the Transilvanian violet: an acaulescent, limestone loving species, endemic of the Carpathian Mts. (Romania, Ukraine); a new population was also described from NE Serbia
Besides Hepatica, quite a few other spring beauties are in flower right now.
Claytonia virginica
The one which literally bears this common name: Claytonia virginica, is a short lived ephemeral. After enchanting us with its cheerful flowers it will retreat in the ground for the rest of the season.
It certainly needs a long beauty sleep!
Others though, will remain and provide beauty, shade, shelter and food for the wildlife until late fall.
Among the first native shrubs to flower in our woodlands is Lindera benzoin, the Northern spicebush.
If hiking in the woods at this time (in the wetter sides) and notice a yellow tinge among the otherwise bare trees branches, then it is Lindera (reason why another common name is forsythia of the wilds). It usually grows as an understory small tree/large shrub on bottomland woodlands and river edges.
Lindera benzoin it is one of the first native shrubs/small tree to flower in the spring; it can be grown in a partly shaded location as a large specimen (by planting few plants together) or in small groups for larger woodland gardens
The yellow flowers which appear in small ‘bunches’ (female/males plants) are a sign of the long awaited spring and very useful to the early pollinators!
Lindera puts its best show in early fall when the foliage turns yellow; wonderful background for the shiny red, abundant fruits (female and male plants need to grow together). They provide food for countless birds but are always in great abundance and some will be left to be admired.
The fleshy part of the fruits was/it is chopped and utilized as an allspice (hence the name). The foliage is also aromatic and the leaves and twigs were used to prepare a tea. Not least important, the Spicebush is a favourite larval host for the beautiful Spicebush swallowtail and Promethea silkmoth!
About fruits, seeds and germination:
The seeds are hydrophilic and need to be sown right after collecting or kept moist. After a period of cold/moist stratification they will germinate promptly in the spring (see the post: A late arrival – Lindera benzoin seedlings).
Lindera benzoin fruits & seeds
Every year I sow a few Aquilegia species indoors to give them a bit of extra growth time. New species, some to repeat, there are always plenty of seeds to choose from. It is always good to go back to basics.
1. Aquilegia canadensis – short form: I need a new one; last year I put the spade through it by mistake.
2. Aquilegia fragrans: time to see how a fragrant Aquilegia actually smells (old seeds from a seedex).
3. Aquilegia chaplinei: young plants have been devoured last year by the columbine sawfly, twice! This is a lovely dwarf version of A. chrysantha, with delicate bluish-green foliage and yellow flowers with extremely long spurs. I love long spurred Aquilegias!
4. Aquilegia vitalii: from few remaining old seeds; I have a young plant outdoors but who knows after this harsh winter…..
There are also a few A. scopulorum seedlings; I never seem to have enough plants to be able to offer seeds and it’s a pity (Alien vs. Predators).
Last year I grew A. alpina again and A. olympica so there should be a lot of new blues this summer. Not that I can complain, Aquilegia nigricans does a fine job in this regard.
Note: keep your eyes open for the columbine sawfly (Pristiphora rufipes) in late spring.
Last year I had the unfortunate occasion to discover that the larvae, which look like green caterpillars, can consume the entire foliage of one plant in a blink of an eye!
They are hard to notice being green but not difficult to pick up by hand if noticed on time (spraying with insecticidal soap should also work if necessary).
Also, do not believe there is only one generation/year like they say; it depends on the climate.
The repotting of Chinese Podophyllums and Roscoea always brings to mind the contractile roots, and Jules Verne’s story ;) It is time to talk about them.
So, what’s with these contractile roots?
Many species from various families and growing in a whole range of habitats are equipped with such roots. By contracting they pull down the plant at the depth considered optimal by the species.
They particularly play a role in good plant anchorage. Also, for many bulbous/tuberous and rhizomatous species they adjust the depth of these organs in the ground where they will be protected from extreme temperatures/drought; another function is to protect the apical buds from being destroyed.
As soon as possible the Podophyllum shown below will be planted out; I felt sorry seeing the long contractile roots circled at the bottom of the container. I have to give it the freedom to go deep down in the ground.
Podophyllum delavayi (syn. Dysosma) grown in a large container – notice the contractile roots, most often they have a cord-like appearance and are unbranched. Imagine how much deeper they would have like to go if planted in the ground!
Roscoea cautleyoides – purple form
It is my opinion that these roots also have a practical implication in regards to planting.
Over the years I noticed that all the Arisaema sp. and Roscoea I planted in the ground in early summer did fine, even if some species are not considered truly hardy for the zone 5. I am sure this is because they had time to go deep down to their desired depth before the cold season started.
Planting too late means that the roots won’t have time to settle at the proper depth, with a possible negative outcome.
Many times we attribute the loss of plants to the fact that they are not hardy, or the drainage wasn’t good enough, and so on….
Conclusion: plant your Roscoea, Chinese Podophyllums and Arisaema species in the ground as soon as possible and no later than June I would say (in a cold, continental climate); if not possible, keep them in pots and wait until next year.
Also, do not grow them in pots longer than necessary, they like to go in exploration towards the center of the earth!
Another practical implication when growing these species from seeds: use taller pots, even the young seedlings like to have space for ‘deep’ exploration; it’s in their nature.
Few other Roscoea tubers pictures – the invasion of the Roscoea? :0
* All plants shown in the pictures have been grown from seeds.
You may also want to read – Hunker Down and Hold On: Contractile Roots Give Skunk Cabbage Another Special Trait.
Before the FAQ on pre-ordering, mea culpa for providing wrong advice regarding Paeonia brownii germination.
Seeds arrived at a very busy time last fall (not that this should be an excuse), and after a quick search I wrongly assumed they require a warm cycle for root protruding followed by a cold one for shoot growing, like many other peony species.
I also followed this line of thought and kept my seeds in moist storage at room temperature starting mid-October. By January I felt something was not right and at the beginning of February I put the Ziploc bag containing the seeds in the fridge. One month later few of them already show cracked teguments!
Paeonia brownii seeds after 1 month of cold-moist stratification (fridge)
Good information IS available on the subject if one looks well enough and uses some critical thinking. I am sure that an AI would have come with the right advice in a split second.
Paeonia brownii seeds require 2-3 months of cold/moist stratification in order to germinate.
Those who received seeds last year please click to read the pdf below; better even, download it for your files. It contains a plant profile for Paeonia brownii with everything you need to know. It mentions that the young roots are sensitive, so as soon as I’ll notice the roots growing I will take one more picture, plant them in pots in a well-drained mix, and continue to provide the remaining cold period as such.
There is much talk about AI writing these days; I even answered recently a short questionnaire for someone working in AI development, looking to better understand the problems of products/content writing process encountered by on-line businesses.
No doubt, the time will come when they will do all the work for us: faster and competently.
Until then, I shall be excused for continuing to make humanly mistakes.
Who knows, maybe in the future this will remain a ‘signature’ of our writings.
They will inherently contain, somewhere, somehow, an error.
A tiny mark of our beautifully flawed human nature.
I don’t always get the chance to talk more about various species offered in the seeds shop which are not that well known/cultivated for ornamental purpose. This opportunity came unexpectedly for Ephedra distachya.
Ephedra species, commonly known as Mormon tea, joint-fir (and few others) are better known for their medicinal properties.
But not many are aware that Ephedra species are Gymnosperms, a singular genus in Fam. Ephedraceae, which in its turn is the sole Fam. in the Order Ephedrales.
Almost all species are dioecious and growing in dry, rocky/sandy habitats. Considering their evergreen aspect and colorful cones, they also make for interesting garden plants, a quality which should be exploited more.
It is extremely rare to see Ephedra in someone’s garden in our northern temperate climate. And yet, there are hardy species; we just need to be more open to growing new species.
Ephedra distachya is a low-growing shrub from Southern and Central Europe to Central Asia, which prefers rocky places in full sun location. The seeds were collected in 2017 from the Dobrogea region, close to the Black Sea in Romania.
Ephedra distachya, sea grape – female plant with ripe cones
Because not too much info regarding the seeds/germination/viability was available, I recently took it out of the inventory in order to test the seeds. I do this regularly with seeds in their 2-3+ year of storage, but with Ephedra I had one more reason for testing: the seeds I sowed in early fall 2017 soon after collecting, did not germinate by fall 2018.
An easy and fast way to assess the seeds is the ‘cut method’: slice transversally through the seeds and visually (magnifying glass) inspect the ‘insides’, which should be whitish/yellowish in color. This will show that the seeds are not empty (which happens sometimes) and the endosperm/embryo are viable (unless using a microscope is hard to say most of the time if you’ve cut through the endosperm or the embryo).
After this first phase, one can follow with further germination tests, if desired/necessary.
In the case of seeds with a very hard seed coat or slippery, it is easier to cut the soaked seeds. I will elaborate about this method some other time.
Long story short – the seeds soaking started on Jan.3; water was changed daily. Yesterday (Jan. 7) this was the situation: after 5 days of soaking at room temperature, the seeds are starting to germinate! No need for cutting, proceed to sowing :)
Ephedra distachya seeds starting to germinate (radicles emerging)
So, why these seeds have not germinated in the pot?
One explanation would be that I missed the watering of the little pot at some point, which is possible.
It is very easy to leave the pots too dry during the critical point when the germination starts when you don’t actually see the above ground signs of the seedlings.
It wouldn’t be the first time when I missed to properly water pots with seedlings. A good reminder to keep a better eye on the sowings!
Now, who wants to grow something different for their garden?
Ephedra distachya seeds are back in stock and other rarely cultivated species suitable to grow in similar location are still available (like Hedysarum grandiflorum, Astragalus vesicarius,…).
