Spring beauties I: Claytonia and Lindera

, ,

Besides Hepatica, quite a few other spring beauties are in flower right now.

Claytonia virginica

The one which literally bears this common name: Claytonia virginica, is a short lived ephemeral. After enchanting us with its cheerful flowers it will retreat in the ground for the rest of the season.
It certainly needs a long beauty sleep!
Others though, will remain and provide beauty, shade, shelter and food for the wildlife until late fall.

Among the first native shrubs to flower in our woodlands is Lindera benzoin, the Northern spicebush.

If hiking in the woods at this time (in the wetter sides) and notice a yellow tinge among the otherwise bare trees branches, then it is Lindera (reason why another common name is forsythia of the wilds). It usually grows as an understory small tree/large shrub on bottomland woodlands and river edges.

Lindera benzoin it is one of the first native shrubs/small tree to flower in the spring; it can be grown in a partly shaded location as a large specimen (by planting few plants together) or in small groups for larger woodland gardens

The yellow flowers which appear in small ‘bunches’ (female/males plants) are a sign of the long awaited spring and very useful to the early pollinators!

Lindera puts its best show in early fall when the foliage turns yellow; wonderful background for the shiny red, abundant fruits (female and male plants need to grow together). They provide food for countless birds but are always in great abundance and some will be left to be admired.

Lindera benzoin, September

Lindera benzoin, fall

The fleshy part of the fruits was/it is chopped and utilized as an allspice (hence the name). The foliage is also aromatic and the leaves and twigs were used to prepare a tea. Not least important, the Spicebush is a favourite larval host for the beautiful Spicebush swallowtail and Promethea silkmoth!

About fruits, seeds and germination:

The seeds are hydrophilic and need to be sown right after collecting or kept moist. After a period of cold/moist stratification they will germinate promptly in the spring (see the post: A late arrival – Lindera benzoin seedlings).

Lindera benzoin fruits & seeds

Friday’s seedlings – Aquilegia

, ,

Every year I sow a few Aquilegia species indoors to give them a bit of extra growth time. New species, some to repeat, there are always plenty of seeds to choose from. It is always good to go back to basics.

1. Aquilegia canadensis – short form: I need a new one; last year I put the spade through it by mistake.

2. Aquilegia fragrans: time to see how a fragrant Aquilegia actually smells (old seeds from a seedex).

3. Aquilegia chaplinei: young plants have been devoured last year by the columbine sawfly, twice! This is a lovely dwarf version of A. chrysantha, with delicate bluish-green foliage and yellow flowers with extremely long spurs. I love long spurred Aquilegias!

4. Aquilegia vitalii: from few remaining old seeds; I have a young plant outdoors but who knows after this harsh winter…..

There are also a few A. scopulorum seedlings; I never seem to have enough plants to be able to offer seeds and it’s a pity (Alien vs. Predators).
Last year I grew A. alpina again and A. olympica so there should be a lot of new blues this summer. Not that I can complain, Aquilegia nigricans does a fine job in this regard.

Note: keep your eyes open for the columbine sawfly (Pristiphora rufipes) in late spring.
Last year I had the unfortunate occasion to discover that the larvae, which look like green caterpillars, can consume the entire foliage of one plant in a blink of an eye!
They are hard to notice being green but not difficult to pick up by hand if noticed on time (spraying with insecticidal soap should also work if necessary).
Also, do not believe there is only one generation/year like they say; it depends on the climate.

Contractile roots – a journey to the center of the earth?

,

The repotting of Chinese Podophyllums and Roscoea always brings to mind the contractile roots, and Jules Verne’s story ;) It is time to talk about them.

So, what’s with these contractile roots?
Many species from various families and growing in a whole range of habitats are equipped with such roots. By contracting they pull down the plant at the depth considered optimal by the species.

They particularly play a role in good plant anchorage. Also, for many bulbous/tuberous and rhizomatous species they adjust the depth of these organs in the ground where they will be protected from extreme temperatures/drought; another function is to protect the apical buds from being destroyed.

As soon as possible the Podophyllum shown below will be planted out; I felt sorry seeing the long contractile roots circled at the bottom of the container. I have to give it the freedom to go deep down in the ground.

Podophyllum delavayi (syn. Dysosma) grown in a large container – notice the contractile roots, most often they have a cord-like appearance and are unbranched. Imagine how much deeper they would have like to go if planted in the ground!

Roscoea cautleyoides – purple form

It is my opinion that these roots also have a practical implication in regards to planting.

Over the years I noticed that all the Arisaema sp. and Roscoea I planted in the ground in early summer did fine, even if some species are not considered truly hardy for the zone 5. I am sure this is because they had time to go deep down to their desired depth before the cold season started.

Planting too late means that the roots won’t have time to settle at the proper depth, with a possible negative outcome.
Many times we attribute the loss of plants to the fact that they are not hardy, or the drainage wasn’t good enough, and so on….

Conclusion: plant your Roscoea, Chinese Podophyllums and Arisaema species in the ground as soon as possible and no later than June I would say (in a cold, continental climate); if not possible, keep them in pots and wait until next year.
Also, do not grow them in pots longer than necessary, they like to go in exploration towards the center of the earth!

 

Another practical implication when growing these species from seeds: use taller pots, even the young seedlings like to have space for ‘deep’ exploration; it’s in their nature.

Few other Roscoea tubers pictures – the invasion of the Roscoea? :0

* All plants shown in the pictures have been grown from seeds.

You may also want to read – Hunker Down and Hold On: Contractile Roots Give Skunk Cabbage Another Special Trait.

Mea culpa – Paeonia brownii germination

, ,

Before the FAQ on pre-ordering, mea culpa for providing wrong advice regarding Paeonia brownii germination.
Seeds arrived at a very busy time last fall (not that this should be an excuse), and after a quick search I wrongly assumed they require a warm cycle for root protruding followed by a cold one for shoot growing, like many other peony species.

I also followed this line of thought and kept my seeds in moist storage at room temperature starting mid-October. By January I felt something was not right and at the beginning of February I put the Ziploc bag containing the seeds in the fridge. One month later few of them already show cracked teguments!

Paeonia brownii seeds after 1 month of cold-moist stratification (fridge)

Good information IS available on the subject if one looks well enough and uses some critical thinking. I am sure that an AI would have come with the right advice in a split second.
Paeonia brownii seeds require 2-3 months of cold/moist stratification in order to germinate.

Those who received seeds last year please click to read the pdf below; better even, download it for your files. It contains a plant profile for Paeonia brownii with everything you need to know. It mentions that the young roots are sensitive, so as soon as I’ll notice the roots growing I will take one more picture, plant them in pots in a well-drained mix, and continue to provide the remaining cold period as such.

Paeonia brownii: distribution, ecology, propagation, cultivation

There is much talk about AI writing these days; I even answered recently a short questionnaire for someone working in AI development, looking to better understand the problems of products/content writing process encountered by on-line businesses.
No doubt, the time will come when they will do all the work for us: faster and competently.

Until then, I shall be excused for continuing to make humanly mistakes.
Who knows, maybe in the future this will remain a ‘signature’ of our writings.
They will inherently contain, somewhere, somehow, an error. 
A tiny mark of our beautifully flawed human nature.

About Ephedra and cutting seeds

,

I don’t always get the chance to talk more about various species offered in the seeds shop which are not that well known/cultivated for ornamental purpose. This opportunity came unexpectedly for Ephedra distachya.

Ephedra species, commonly known as Mormon tea, joint-fir (and few others) are better known for their medicinal properties.
But not many are aware that Ephedra species are Gymnosperms, a singular genus in Fam. Ephedraceae, which in its turn is the sole Fam. in the Order Ephedrales.

Almost all species are dioecious and growing in dry, rocky/sandy habitats. Considering their evergreen aspect and colorful cones, they also make for interesting garden plants, a quality which should be exploited more.
It is extremely rare to see Ephedra in someone’s garden in our northern temperate climate. And yet, there are hardy species; we just need to be more open to growing new species.

Ephedra distachya is a low-growing shrub from Southern and Central Europe to Central Asia, which prefers rocky places in full sun location. The seeds were collected in 2017 from the Dobrogea region, close to the Black Sea in Romania.

Ephedra distachya, sea grape – female plant with ripe cones

Because not too much info regarding the seeds/germination/viability was available, I recently took it out of the inventory in order to test the seeds. I do this regularly with seeds in their 2-3+ year of storage, but with Ephedra I had one more reason for testing: the seeds I sowed in early fall 2017 soon after collecting, did not germinate by fall 2018.

An easy and fast way to assess the seeds is the ‘cut method’:  slice transversally through the seeds and visually (magnifying glass) inspect the ‘insides’, which should be whitish/yellowish in color. This will show that the seeds are not empty (which happens sometimes) and the endosperm/embryo are viable (unless using a microscope is hard to say most of the time if you’ve cut through the endosperm or the embryo).
After this first phase, one can follow with further germination tests, if desired/necessary.
In the case of seeds with a very hard seed coat or slippery, it is easier to cut the soaked seeds. I will elaborate about this method some other time.

Long story short – the seeds soaking started on Jan.3; water was changed daily. Yesterday (Jan. 7) this was the situation: after 5 days of soaking at room temperature, the seeds are starting to germinate! No need for cutting, proceed to sowing :)

Ephedra distachya seeds starting to germinate (radicles emerging)

 So, why these seeds have not germinated in the pot?
One explanation would be that I missed the watering of the little pot at some point, which is possible.
It is very easy to leave the pots too dry during the critical point when the germination starts when you don’t actually see the above ground signs of the seedlings.
It wouldn’t be the first time when I missed to properly water pots with seedlings. A good reminder to keep a better eye on the sowings!

Now, who wants to grow something different for their garden?
Ephedra distachya seeds are back in stock and other rarely cultivated species suitable to grow in similar location are still available (like Hedysarum grandiflorum, Astragalus vesicarius,…).

A ‘weedy’ Roscoea?!!

, ,

Yes, that’s how I labeled the Roscoea species from these photo for a while.

Roscoea cf. scillifolia purple; photo taken last week (Oct. 17, 2018)

It was grown from seeds which came labeled as ‘R. tibetica narrow leaves’ (seedex).
Given the arrangement of leaves it become clear it was not R. tibetica even before flowering.The flowers resemble on a superficial look but then the way the capsules are formed also differ. So, it got the label Roscoea ‘non-tibetica’.

It proved to be the fastest growing Roscoea I’ve seen and flowered in the second year; also producing seeds. It was a bit hard to believe and the label was changed from Roscoea ‘non-tibetica’ to Roscoea ‘weedy’ :-)

I planted it in the garden two years ago curious to see if it will survive. Not only it did but as seen in the picture it thrives. Last year I didn’t collect any seeds and new seedlings are now added to the initial little clump.

All floral parts were photographed and measured; using the Roscoea Monograph of Jill Cowley it was found to fit into the highly variable Roscoea scillifolia species. Until someone does more work in Roscoea taxonomy, seeds will be offered as such in the shop; cf. because there is not enough data to be 100% sure, purple – to differentiate it from the usual pink and dark- flowered forms of R. scillifolia in culture.

And because it is Friday, here are the seeds:

Roscoea cf. scillifolia purple seeds: “elliptic to triangular, shallowly lacerate”

 

Why not give a try to this ‘weedy’ Roscoea?
Admittedly it is not one of the showiest of the species, but it is hardy, easy to grow and it flowers fast. Plus, let’s not forget that “propagation means conservation” (Prof. Norman Deno)


*R. scillifolia sensu latu, it is supposed to be extinct in the wild at the present.

**Although usually considered more fancy plants, Roscoea species are not hard to germinate and grow, but it takes few years to have them flowering. Also, it is difficult to keep them alive for many years in open ground (the fleshy roots are prone to rot in wet/cold conditions).

 

 

 

Next please – Bukiniczia cabulica

,

Yesterday I had the very good intention to sort out the Bukiniczia cabulica seeds.
It proved out to be not that simple. Just like in the case of various Armeria species (same Plumbaginaceae family), many of the calyces are empty making it very time consuming to go through a large quantity of ‘fruits’.

I said – next please, there are other species waiting in line at this time. Bukiniczia will have to wait; after all it is a warm germinator. But for those interested to know: there will be seeds :)

Bukiniczia cabulica, cute biennial for the rockery; easy to grow from seeds

Moving on to Lilium philadelphicum…

WTA!

, ,

What the Arisaema! :-)

A couple of years ago I stumbled upon an Arisaema triphyllum population with huge leaves; among them, even a specimen with 3 leaves and two fruits.

Arisaema triphyllum – large form; the seeds are in the shop.

I didn’t carry a measuring tape but the length of the leaflets was much more than 1 ft. (30 cm). I also don’t know the colour of the spathe, anyway I failed to collect the fruits that time.

WTA!

I’ve seen other Arisaema triphyllum with leaves this large but the majority of seeds I collect are from more ‘normal’ (smaller) plants. So, I returned this fall and collected some of the fruits already lying on the woodland floor.

Arisaema triphyllum plants are cross pollinated, so it’s only a matter of luck to obtain an interesting form when growing from seeds.

There is great potential here!

 

A note regarding the germination: all A. triphyllum seeds collections from our region proved to be warm germinators; even older seeds. It will be interesting to see about these ones.

Link for the shop

Delphinium tatsienense vs. D. grandiflorum

,

It seems we are naturally ‘inclined’ to want plants that bear names with an exotic resonance.
For example, D. tatsienense may ‘sound’ better than D. grandiflorum; not that the name should be the criterion when choosing what plants to grow.

Few years ago I bought seeds of D. tatsienense, I grew it, boasted about it, collected its seed, until doubts started to creep in about its identity.
I stopped offering seeds but kept some; I grew more seedlings with the precise purpose to have a closer look at it.

The differences between the two species are somewhat minute considering Flora of China (which always gives me the blues when I have to rely on it). Nevertheless, after looking closely and taking meticulous measurements I am pretty sure this is D. grandiflorum; and probably 90% or more, of what goes around in the trades (seeds and plants) as D. tatsienense is actually D. grandiflorum.

The Papilio butterfly, which was busy feeding when I was doing measurements on the cut flowers, gave me the sort of look – “does it really matter?”….Well, it matters for us.

Delphinium grandiflorum and Papilio polyxenes

All that’s needed for ID, if you have plants of either of them, are a strong hand lens & small measuring tape. Flora of China see here – link to Delphinium.
Disclaimer: following the link to the Delphinium keys might give you the blues.
Better grow some plants when the seeds are ready, regardless of the name!

 

Out in the woods – Trillium grandiflorum

,

The time has come to admire again the Large white-flowered Trillium in all its forms and also few other woodland companions.

Although Trillium grandiflorum takes center stage at this time, it doesn’t grow by itself and I will show just a few species that were growing beside it in one particular area: Caulophyllum, Podophyllum peltatum (May apple), Maianthemum racemosum (False Solomon’s Seal), Uvularia grandiflora, Asarum canadense, Viola rostrata, Viola sororia. Others not shown here which associate in the wild/woodland gardens: Actaea species, Polygonatum pubescens, Thalictrum dioicum, Hepatica americana/acutiloba, Sanguinaria, Arisaema triphyllum, Viola pubescens and of course Trillium erectum.
Seeds of all are usually offered in the Seeds Shop by fall.

Caulophyllum and Trillium grandiflorum

Podophyllum peltatum

Maianthemum racemosum

Uvularia grandiflora

Viola rostrata

Viola sororia

 

Glaucidium palmatum – experimenting on germination

,

Opinions seem to differ about the germination of Japanese woodland poppy; of course the time of seed maturation and provenience/origin, age of the seeds, can all lead to different results.
A little while ago, someone asked a question about this and then a discussion started on the Scottish Rock Garden Forum. This being a highly desired and expensive plant, I decided to repeat sowing seeds using GA3/1000 ppm, just like I did a few years ago in order to have a final idea about what’s happening.

Glaucidium palmatum and G. palmatum ‘Album’ (syn. var. leucanthum)
15 seeds of each/2017 season, collected in SW Ontario.
Treatment with GA3 1000 ppm/sowing next day March 23th.
Pictures taken April 18, 19th
*I only had a few seeds from 2016, and not the very best, so I could not look at the potential effect of their age. Last time I had also sown older seeds and they did fine overall but I cannot provide the % of germination.

The following pictures are of Glaucidium palmatum. Glaucidium palmatum ‘Album’ is starting a bit late, only 3 seedlings can be seen at this time. I did enough damage for now, patience…
I had to take pictures fast but they are good enough for our purpose of counting the germinated seeds:

I removed some of the potting mix and we can count 10 seedlings

plus 3 good that fell off here (I broke one root, sorry), plus some leftover seed teguments – probably 2 seeds were empty

All in all – 13 seedlings from 15 sown (2 unaccounted for).

I went further with the experiment (the pot was too small anyway) and took out all the seedlings, recounted and replanted them, 3/pot. It is the first time I transplant such young Glaucidium seedlings and it will be interesting to see how it goes.

Some of the seedlings may produce a first true leaf (I will update this post later) but most will remain at the cotyledon leaves stage.
Don’t worry when at some point the cotyledons start withering, keep the pots in a part-shaded location and water once in a while. Next spring they will emerge with the true leaf!
For better understanding, here are few older images, with seeds sown/GA3 treated, a few years ago.

Glaucidium palmatum seedlings going dormant for the remaining of the season

Glaucidium palmatum – the same seedlings, emerged early next spring, and I grew them under lights for a while

Following other people’s experience, a good alternative to using GA3 is:
– sow in late fall/winter and provide cold outdoors; some seedlings will emerge in the spring, some in the second  year after sowing.

*Others report warm germination with freshly collected seeds sown in early summer. In my opinion this is not time feasible in the Northern Hemisphere because the seeds mature late; by the time you buy the seeds or receive them from seed exchanges, it will be late fall/winter or even early spring. Those who can procure seeds early in the season can give it a try.

 

Hepatica pictures gallery

,

A perfect day to think about the blooms to come!
Click on the picture to enter the gallery.