Spring and fall

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Quite a few species that flowered in the spring are opening (or will do it shortly) their fruits to release the seeds.
The fall blooming Crocus species does the same thing. Interesting, isn’t it?

Many of these species are in the category I once called ‘notorious seeds defectors’ :-)
Hepatica, Corydalis & Pseudofumaria spp., Stylophorum spp., Helleborus, Asarum spp. (gingers), Saruma, Viola ssp., Epimediums, the recently added Dirca palustris and so on… (hover over pictures for the names)

Stay tuned…

Asclepias exaltata and other happenings

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A couple of days ago I found seeds of Asclepias exaltata germinated/overgrown within the moist towel I used for cold/moist stratification; reason why I don’t like to use this method too much (a great space saver though). When using moist vermiculite the roots have the possibility to grow in/attach and even feed a bit from the vermiculite.
 Of course it is my fault I didn’t keep a good eye on the seeds. I managed to gently extract a few of the seedlings and planted them right away.

Asclepias exaltata germinated seeds

Asclepias exaltata seedlings

I probably showed this woodland Asclepias before, but the milkweeds are never enough :) and this one is indeed scarce in my region (SW Ontario). For this reason, I always collect selectively only few seeds and there are never enough for sale.

I am trying to produce more for my native woodland corner to address the issue, plus, to keep the pollinators happy! They are easy to grow, my 3 years old plant (grown from seeds) will flower this year. Meanwhile for those that need a remainder, this is the Poke milkweed.

Asclepias exaltata, Poke milkweed, flowering usually in late June

Speaking of something else, Hydrophyllum virginianum has a nice show in the woods right now, and also in my garden. The bumblebees are happy. Also flowering, Conopholis americana while Viola pubescens capsules are getting closer to maturity.

Hydrophyllum virginianum

And, Erythronium americanum capsules have been collected; this is one of the best collections  I’ve done so far. The seeds will be available in the Seeds Shop next week.

Erythronium americanum capsules

Superb: Dianthus superbus ssp. sajanense

Change of plans; I wanted to write something about Aconitum germination/seedlings, then, wanted to announce the posting of the first seeds of the season, but how can I do anything else before showing this Dianthus superbus ssp. sajanense at peak flowering? Divine fragrance!

Dianthus superbus ssp. sajanense, flowering in the second year from seeds.

 

 

 

 

 

Out in the world

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At the same time Trillium grandiflorum is flowering in the woods, I planted my 3 years old seedlings in the garden (in bunches of 2-4 seedlings).

I don’t have enough space to keep seedlings growing in pots for more than 1 – 3 years (to the extreme). For some it is more than enough, others might like a bit of pampering, but it is what it is – they have to go out and face the ‘world’ :-) : T. erectum, M. stellatum, Allium tricoccum, Asarum canadense (1 year), Lilium canadense, and L. michiganense, Prosartes lanuginosa and probably few others.

Trillium grandiflorum 3 years old

Trillium grandiflorum 3 years old

Maianthemum stellatum, Asarum canadense (wild ginger) and Allium tricoccum (wild garlic) are very tough and I’m sure they’ll do well. For Lilium canadense and Lilium michiganense it will be an experiment to see how it goes if planted in the ground at an early age. Pictures taken before planting out:

Asarum canadense seedlings

Maianthemum stellatum seedlings

Allium tricoccum

Lilium canadense

One concession I make is having a dedicated spot with small plants where it is easier to keep an eye on them; but there are full grown perennials there as well. Most people have a bit of empty space between some larger perennial/shrubs and can do that.

Prosartes lanuginosa, yellow fairy bells, 2 years old – easy to germinate and grow from fresh/moist kept seeds

Growing native species from seeds for your garden and planting out the young seedlings follows well the natural rhythm of nature; from a pot full of seedlings, some will perish and the strongest will survive, perfectly adapted to your garden conditions.

On the feature image: Jeffersonia diphylla young seedlings planted in the ground last year.

 

Hydrastis canadensis – short note

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It seems it is good, if not even required, to document the growing of Hydrastis canadensis (golden seal) with the purpose of selling seeds/plants at some point in the future.
The overharvesting from the wild coupled with the destruction of its natural habitat lead to its inclusion in 1991 on the CITES Appendix II (Convention for International Trade on Endangered Species).

I already showed the seeds, the germination, and here they are the 2 years old plants at the transplanting stage. I expect they would start to grow faster now that they built a little rhizome.

Hydrastis canadensis, goldenseal – 2 years old plants

For those who don’t know about the goldenseal and its medicinal properties, here’s an excerpt from an older post that I will re-write entirely at some point.

“Native Americans introduced European settlers to the medicinal properties of quite a few medicinal plants, among them the Goldenseal – Hydrastis canadensis, which is native to SE Canada and NE United States. The Goldenseal grows in shady, moist woodlands locations. Other common names include: yellow root, eye root, ground raspberry, Indian dye and yellow puccoon. It is a small perennial with a knotty rhizome and deeply divided leaves with 5-7 lobes. The white flowers appear in the spring and are followed by inedible red fruits (raspberry-like) in the fall.

The Cherokee and other tribes used mainly the roots as an antiseptic for inflammation, as a general tonic, to improve appetite, to treat skin problems and as an eyewash for sore eyes. Also they produced from it a golden-yellow dye, hence the common name ‘Indian dye’.

The medicinal properties of the goldenseal are due mainly to two alkaloids (hydrastine and berberine) which have antimicrobial properties. In laboratory conditions berberine has been shown to be toxic to fungal cells and some types of cancer cells.”

Hydrastis canadensis – Köhler’s Medizinal Pflanzen

Out in the woods – Hepatica acutiloba

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Well, I tried recently to visit the population called  Hepatica acutiloba –pastel mix (please read: Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix explained).
Even on sunny days, if it is too cold, the Hepatica flowers don’t open entirely though. No worry, there are many pictures from previous years.

So, I recycle an older post with some added notes and we can review already posted pictures. As explained in the link above, this is a localized population of Hepatica acutiloba with flowers in various pastel colors: white, lilac and pink and leaves with long acuminate lobes, mostly marbled in the fall. They all grow close together and I cannot offer seeds from individual specimens, reason why they are listed as Hepatica acutiloba – pastel mix.

Besides Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix, a specimen with star shaped flowers and narrower leaf lobes was named Hepatica acutiloba ‘Purple Star’ (2019).
Since then I also grew some seedlings from it, and the good news is that they came true to the mother plant!

Hepatica acutiloba ‘Purple Star’

Hepatica acutiloba ex. ‘Purple Star’ seedlings

As I mentioned a few times already, Hepatica acutiloba is a bit easier from seeds than Hepatica americana, plus the seedlings grow and flower faster. I say it is a good beginner’s Hepatica to try.
Prepare your hiking shoes: Sanguinaria canadensis is flowering and Claytonia virginica, Erythronium grandiflorum and Trillium erectum are also starting to flower, depending on the location!

Purple beasties – Caulophyllum

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Spring is evolving fast here in Ontario; Hepatica, Sanguinaria canadensis and Claytonia are flowering in our woods. Also, in some places blackish/purple beasties are erupting from the leaf mulch and growing with the speed of light – I am talking about the blue cohosh, Caulophyllum shoots :)

I wrote few times about Caulophyllum (referring in general to both C. thalictroides and C. giganteum) and its seeds, which are hydrophyllic and slow to germinate.
In this post I would like to bring to your attention two things:
The seeds offered up to this year were collected from a mix population of C. thalictroides and C. giganteum. Later in the season they are indistinguishable. C. giganteum is more desirable because has a deeper purple colour, purple flowers, and it gets taller. Depending on the luck, some may obtain C. giganteum seedlings.

This year the seeds of C, giganteum will be offered separate, from a localized population.

Caulophyllum giganteum in early spring

Caulophyllum giganteum, the shoots are coming up with the flower buds which open right away after few sunny days

Then, about germination: the seedlings are also appearing in my garden, and I can show two easy methods to germinate/grow it, without keeping around pots for 2-3 years until the seeds germinate.

  1. Sow the seeds into a compostable container buried into the ground (close to a large perennial, shrub) where you will water once in a while; cover with a mesh to discourage critters. A layer of leaves mulch can also be used in late fall, to mimic the natural environment.

Caulophyllum seeds sown in compostable container, which can remain in place

Caulophyllum seedlings, a bit hard to notice because of the colour

2. Sow the large seeds directly into the garden, also close to a large perennial or shrub, where you know the soil won’t be disturbed. In my picture the seedlings are growing now among Polygonatum buds.

Caulophyllum seedlings obtained by direct sowing in the ground

In a couple of years they can be dug up and planted at the desired place.

Stay tuned – Hepatica acutiloba and H. americana are in full flowering mode :)

The waterleafs – to each its place

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Hydrophyllum virginianum and Hydrophyllum canadense

Among the Crocuses, reticulate Irises, Corydalis and Hepatica in my garden, the young foliage of the waterleafs also appeared last week: H. virginianum (Virginia waterleaf) and H. canadense (Blunt-leaved waterleaf, maple leaf waterleaf).

It makes sense because these species are among the first to carpet the forest floor in eastern North America before the trees leaf out. The foliage in early spring is very attractive with white/silver spots, hence the common name; it will later turn to green.

Hydrophyllum virginianum – early spring foliage

Hydrophyllum canadense

For H. virginianum, soon after the foliage turns green, the helicoidal inflorescences with ciliate calyces start unfolding to reveal the bell shaped flowers with exerted stamens in a wide range of colours from deep lavender to white. Hydrophyllum canadense flowers later and the white flowers remain hidden under the foliage; a pity, they are so pretty!

Hydrophyllum virginianum

Hydrophyllum canadense flowers

Equally important to their attractiveness, the waterleafs are considered as plants with ‘Special value to Native bees’ by pollination ecologists because they attract a large number of native bees. In my forest walks I rarely see a H. virginianum which is not foraged by the bumble bees.

They also have been used as medicinal plants and the young leaves/shoots are edible (other common name for H. virginianum = Shawnee salad)

H. virginianum grows in part-shade/shade deciduous forests; Hydrophyllum canadense is more common in flood plains forests and along streams.
Both spread by rhizomes and will form colonies; reason why some call them ‘weedy’. In any case, under dry shade you don’t need to worry for H. virginianum.
On the other hand, if a low maintenance ground cover is desired, in proper conditions they can do the job. Actually the ‘weedy’ H. canadense is listed as extremely rare or threatened in few US states.

To each its place….

Let me ask you a question now– with all the buzz and fuss about the pollinator plants, in how many gardens have you seen waterleafs cultivated ?

For Hydrophyllum spp. germination info please read: Lost in translation
The fruits mature gradually and split up when ripen; they are not among the easiest seeds to collect.

 

Glaucidium palmatum – experimenting on germination

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Opinions seem to differ about the germination of Japanese woodland poppy; of course the time of seed maturation and provenience/origin, age of the seeds, can all lead to different results.
A little while ago, someone asked a question about this and then a discussion started on the Scottish Rock Garden Forum. This being a highly desired and expensive plant, I decided to repeat sowing seeds using GA3/1000 ppm, just like I did a few years ago in order to have a final idea about what’s happening.

Glaucidium palmatum and G. palmatum ‘Album’ (syn. var. leucanthum)
15 seeds of each/2017 season, collected in SW Ontario.
Treatment with GA3 1000 ppm/sowing next day March 23th.
Pictures taken April 18, 19th
*I only had a few seeds from 2016, and not the very best, so I could not look at the potential effect of their age. Last time I had also sown older seeds and they did fine overall but I cannot provide the % of germination.

The following pictures are of Glaucidium palmatum. Glaucidium palmatum ‘Album’ is starting a bit late, only 3 seedlings can be seen at this time. I did enough damage for now, patience…
I had to take pictures fast but they are good enough for our purpose of counting the germinated seeds:

I removed some of the potting mix and we can count 10 seedlings

plus 3 good that fell off here (I broke one root, sorry), plus some leftover seed teguments – probably 2 seeds were empty

All in all – 13 seedlings from 15 sown (2 unaccounted for).

I went further with the experiment (the pot was too small anyway) and took out all the seedlings, recounted and replanted them, 3/pot. It is the first time I transplant such young Glaucidium seedlings and it will be interesting to see how it goes.

Some of the seedlings may produce a first true leaf (I will update this post later) but most will remain at the cotyledon leaves stage.
Don’t worry when at some point the cotyledons start withering, keep the pots in a part-shaded location and water once in a while. Next spring they will emerge with the true leaf!
For better understanding, here are few older images, with seeds sown/GA3 treated, a few years ago.

Glaucidium palmatum seedlings going dormant for the remaining of the season

Glaucidium palmatum – the same seedlings, emerged early next spring, and I grew them under lights for a while

Following other people’s experience, a good alternative to using GA3 is:
– sow in late fall/winter and provide cold outdoors; some seedlings will emerge in the spring, some in the second  year after sowing.

*Others report warm germination with freshly collected seeds sown in early summer. In my opinion this is not time feasible in the Northern Hemisphere because the seeds mature late; by the time you buy the seeds or receive them from seed exchanges, it will be late fall/winter or even early spring. Those who can procure seeds early in the season can give it a try.

 

Hepatica: pollination, seeds & germination

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One more section added to the Hepatica page; click on the picture or visit the main page.

One more to go…Let’s hope the ice storm goes easy on us and we can relax with the pictures gallery on the weekend.

Update on Jeffersonia diphylla germination

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Short update on Jeffersonia diphylla germination.
I kept a small batch of seeds in the fridge to see if they will start to germinate at cold; some species do it,  others not.

Those who bought seeds should see the first seedlings appearing somewhere in May :)

 Jeffersonia diphylla – germination start in early April at cold; seeds kept moist at all times, warm, then cold (fridge)

 

Warm Peonies

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Instead of getting warmer the weather seems to go backwards. Good news is that in the cold frames things are definitely moving in the right direction.

I noticed the first little red shoots of Paeonia japonica on April 1st. The seeds were sown last late summer: hypogeal germinators, forming roots during the warm period and the first shoots after the winter cold period (cold/moist stratification).

Paeonia japonica one year old seedlings with the first shoots peeking from the pot gravel, April 2018

This is the reason I recently recommended that seeds of Paeonia species (except Paeonia tenuifolia) to be bought and sown as warm germinators. The sowing can be done throughout summer (up to August in a cold climate).
If sown in late fall or winter nothing bad happens, just that it makes no sense to occupy the space with the pots since the seeds need a warm cycle first, plus in case of a wet winter the seeds may rot.

The summer-fall sowing is very straightforward, just use taller than usual pots, if possible: sow, water very well and protect the pots from the critters. Keep well watered and when the winter arrives, place the pots in a frost free location: cold frames, or ‘plant’ them in the ground.

Keep in mind that even if you don’t see anything there are (should be) roots inside the pots!
In this idea, keep an eye on the pots, not to receive excessive rainfall, especially when it gets very cold; this easily leads to roots rot.

Another sowing method is to provide the warm cycle required by keeping the seeds in moist vermiculite in a Ziploc bag (indoors at room temperature) until they form the roots and then place pot them up and place the pots in the fridge for 2-3 months for the cold period. This method requires more supervision; I did it once and now I think it is best to go with the natural cycles of warm and cold.

But if you purchase the seeds too late in the season or don’t have a cold frame, it is a doable method.

I am also thinking about a third method for those on cold climates who want/need to sow in October-November and don’t like to play with Ziploc bags: sow in pots as usual and keep them in the house until Dec./Jan. for the warm cycle (this would give the 2-3 months required), check gently to see if the roots have grown, then gradually place the pots outdoors under the snow (or in the fridge). Gradually means, first keep them for a while in a cold location (garage…); also keep in mind that we don’t usually have reliable snow cover.

I showed it with another occasion, and it is nothing new about it, but here’s what these peonies seeds are doing during the warm cycle,  no matter if sown in pots or kept in the Ziploc bags. We need to be aware at all times of the roots growing in pots that otherwise don’t show anything visible on top. If you let them dry out excessively or to freeze, of course no shoots will show up in the spring!

Paeonia rockii hybrid, emerging roots after a warm period provided in moist vermiculite; the roots will grow further, so best to use taller pots for sowing

As said in this older post The sleeping beauties, it is worth growing species peonies from seeds: they are beautiful, hard to find and when it happens to be available they are on the expensive side. Not all the seedlings may come true to species because of cross-pollination, but even the hybrids obtained from the species are special.

Little monsters – Podophyllums yet again

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How can one offer unusual seeds/species on a constant base?
Well, by first growing and establishing mother plants from which to collect the seeds, of course.

So, three years ago I engaged in growing from seeds various Chinese Podophyllums (which actually I promised to call Dysosma).
The protocol I use works wonders (see the related posts below) and in short time I ended up with more plants than I could ever plant in my garden. They surely grow like little monsters! After deep meditation, I decided to act like a responsible adult and part ways with a few of them.

Podophyllum versipelle x pleianthum, bare rooted plants, safe to be shipped at this stage

Then, I felt free to proceed sowing the next generation :)) It is a first for Podophyllum mairei!

Podophyllum mairei germinated seeds

Here’s to the next little monsters!

Podophyllum mairei – new sowings

Many warm germinators species have been recently sown as well; we’ll talk about them later…last touches are being made for re-opening the Seeds shop and accepting Pre-orders for the new season!

 

Rainbows in the Spring II

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Spring has arrived; officially. We know that it will arrive, eventually…Except for snowdrops and few early crocus not much is moving.

Few of the newly planted Iris reticulata hybrids have started to flower though (protected at times with a light fleece). They are early and certainly a bit affected by the weather.
All the result of hard working Canadian Iris breeder Alan McMurtrie; learn more about them on his website: http://www.reticulatas.com/

Iris reticulata ‘Chameleon’ (a slight mistake with the bulbs apparently)

There is hope that more of his wonderful hybrids will became available in Canada. They are all hardy, cheerful signs of spring and even slightly fragrant; the ‘North Star’ is very fragrant!

Iris reticulata ‘North Star’

And, close your eyes and imagine sea waves rolling gently towards the shoreline.

Iris reticulata ‘Sea Breeze’

There will be more :)

* The related post I wrote a few years ago (see below), explains the title – Rainbows in the spring.

The pain and joy of dealing with moist stored seeds

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When I embarked on my seeds adventures few years ago, I’ve decided that there will be no DOD’s offered by BotanyCa (DOD = dead on delivery).
Sometimes seeds won’t germinate from unforeseen reasons, abnormalities and so on… Offering seeds that you know from the beginning won’t germinate or will germinate in very low percentage is a completely different story.

So, I accept the losses and the fact that there will always be leftover seeds germinated in the Ziploc bags by early spring.
When it comes to seeds, just like in nature, everything is accomplished with a great waste of energy. Yet, I am always sad when the time comes to end their ephemeral life.

Stylophorum lasiocarpum germinated seeds

Saruma henryi: germinated seeds which cannot be safely shipped anymore

 On the other hand, I imagine the joy of all those who bought moist packed seeds when they start to germinate!

Other species which ALWAYS start to germinate by late February when kept moist are: Asarum ssp,, Claytonia, most Corydalis,  Aconitum, Hepatica, Podophyllum spp., sometimes Maianthemum stellatum and M. canadense.
*If kept dry some of these species may germinate in the second year, in low percentage.
I hope there is be a better understanding now why seeds of these species need to be ordered in early winter!

 

Great expectations

The first Helleborus plants grown from seeds are set to flower this spring; knowing the ‘parents’ I cannot help having great expectations.

Helleborus x hybridus, grown from seeds of double red parents

I started to grow Helleborus from seeds just by accident really – read about the beginning in Helleborus journeying. Considering their high price on the market, it is something worth to grow yourself, especially when more than one plant is desired. And who can stop at one Helleborus?

Helleborus purpurascens grown from wild collected seeds (photo last fall) – it doesn’t seem it will flower this year but starting to look very much like its parents (see photos in the wild in Helleborus journeying)

Just like with the Epimediums, when growing Helleborus from seeds of open pollinated plants you should expect endless flower variations and many nice surprises along the way.
Not so nice surprises are also possible of course – that’s when the compost pile comes in handy ;)

There are more young plants in the pipeline: seedlings of anemone center parents (my favourites) including from H. Cherry Blossoms, various picotee forms, H. argutifolius, and the youngest of all – H. caucasicus (emerging seedlings in the featured image).

Helleborus argutifolius seedlings

Helleborus x hybridus seedlings

A most satisfying journey, indeed.