A bit of everything today from the indoors seedlings; the outdoors sowings usually start to germinate with the increase of temperatures in late April/May.

Just pricked out: Thermopsis villosa (syn. T. caroliniana, Carolina lupine).
I thought to give it a try this year with the hot water method. Super-easy, some seeds will even start to germinate in the water if you forget about them ;). Rarely seen in the gardens: why? A beautiful leguminous species with yellow lupine-like inflorescences.

The time has also come to prick out the Bukiniczia cabulica seedlings – this is the size when I’ll do it (about 1 month old).

Bukiniczia cabulica seedlings (seeds sown on March 1st)

Update on Erythronium grandiflorum: which is germinating  under lights. The conditions are not ideal because it is a bit too warm and the seedlings start growing too fast and elongate (the sowings outdoors will grow better).

Erythronium grandiflorum seedlings (warm/cold cycles, seeds kept moist)

Until next, a picture with an unexpectedly green apparition in the garden, at a time when only few Crocus and snowdrops are flowering: Papaver bracteatum (seeds sown in the garden last summer). We’ll talk more about poppies and direct sowing in the ground soon.

Papaver bracteatum (April 3, 2019)

 

This is the question….Delphinium nudicaule and Iris suaveolens B17Dob make an odd pair for a post but the germination info has to be updated  for both.

Delphinium nudicaule: I wrongly assumed it would be a warm germinator last fall; sorry about this.
My little pot sat under the lights for a few weeks with no action. What to do now? There are two options:

  1. Keep the pot outdoors in your pile of all others 2+ years germinators (I have quite a few of them).
  2. If you don’t have such a pile, place it in the fridge (enclosed in a plastic bag/box to avoid desiccation).

    Cold-moist stratification provided in the fridge

Usually I would do the first and let nature take its course but being a new species for the shop and without reliable info, I want to see precisely how much cold it needs. It went in the fridge as of April 1st (together with few other species).

If you go the ‘fridge way’ don’t forge to mark the date and to open the bag and check the pots periodically.

 

Iris suaveolens B17Dob (offered in the fall/winter of 2017)

With some Irises it is more complicated: many species won’t germinate simply because they have very hard seed coats. Cold/warm cycles will wear down the seed coat and allow the water imbibition and emergence of the radicle. But this doesn’t mean that the species ‘requires’ a cold period, i.e. has a physiological dormancy; often the lines are blurred.

Although I sowed my seeds in early fall (2017), they didn’t germinate in the spring of last year (2018). I don’t know if they will germinate this spring either. All I know is that the seeds are good (viable) and like in the case of many Iris species, it is the hard seed coat that delays the germination.

In late January I tried the ‘forced method’ recommended for aril irises on a small sample of Iris suaveolens B17Dob – not having experience, I destroyed most seeds but one I got right and it’s enough to prove the point: the seeds have a very hard tegument but otherwise it would be a warm germinator (probably like many others). You can open the link to read about this method: http://files.srgc.net/general/ForcedArilIrisGermination.pdf
Remains to see how long it will take for the seeds sown outdoors to germinate.

Conclusion: I emphasize again the advice that gets sent with all seeds orders: “keep your pots for at least 2(3) years”.
It can happen that even species known to germinate at warm or cold will decide not to do it. The collection site/region/mother-plant and few other factors can influence the patterns of the germination.

 

Every year I sow a few Aquilegia species indoors to give them a bit of extra growth time. New species, some to repeat, there are always plenty of seeds to choose from. It is always good to go back to basics.

1. Aquilegia canadensis – short form: I need a new one; last year I put the spade through it by mistake.

2. Aquilegia fragrans: time to see how a fragrant Aquilegia actually smells (old seeds from a seedex).

3. Aquilegia chaplinei: young plants have been devoured last year by the columbine sawfly, twice! This is a lovely dwarf version of A. chrysantha, with delicate bluish-green foliage and yellow flowers with extremely long spurs. I love long spurred Aquilegias!

4. Aquilegia vitalii: from few remaining old seeds; I have a young plant outdoors but who knows after this harsh winter…..

There are also a few A. scopulorum seedlings; I never seem to have enough plants to be able to offer seeds and it’s a pity (Alien vs. Predators).
Last year I grew A. alpina again and A. olympica so there should be a lot of new blues this summer. Not that I can complain, Aquilegia nigricans does a fine job in this regard.

Note: keep your eyes open for the columbine sawfly (Pristiphora rufipes) in late spring.
Last year I had the unfortunate occasion to discover that the larvae, which look like green caterpillars, can consume the entire foliage of one plant in a blink of an eye!
They are hard to notice being green but not difficult to pick up by hand if noticed on time (spraying with insecticidal soap should also work if necessary).
Also, do not believe there is only one generation/year like they say; it depends on the climate.

The repotting of Chinese Podophyllums and Roscoea always brings to mind the contractile roots, and Jules Verne’s story ;) It is time to talk about them.

So, what’s with these contractile roots?
Many species from various families and growing in a whole range of habitats are equipped with such roots. By contracting they pull down the plant at the depth considered optimal by the species.

They particularly play a role in good plant anchorage. Also, for many bulbous/tuberous and rhizomatous species they adjust the depth of these organs in the ground where they will be protected from extreme temperatures/drought; another function is to protect the apical buds from being destroyed.

As soon as possible the Podophyllum shown below will be planted out; I felt sorry seeing the long contractile roots circled at the bottom of the container. I have to give it the freedom to go deep down in the ground.

Podophyllum delavayi (syn. Dysosma) grown in a large container – notice the contractile roots, most often they have a cord-like appearance and are unbranched. Imagine how much deeper they would have like to go if planted in the ground!

Roscoea cautleyoides – purple form

It is my opinion that these roots also have a practical implication in regards to planting.

Over the years I noticed that all the Arisaema sp. and Roscoea I planted in the ground in early summer did fine, even if some species are not considered truly hardy for the zone 5. I am sure this is because they had time to go deep down to their desired depth before the cold season started.

Planting too late means that the roots won’t have time to settle at the proper depth, with a possible negative outcome.
Many times we attribute the loss of plants to the fact that they are not hardy, or the drainage wasn’t good enough, and so on….

Conclusion: plant your Roscoea, Chinese Podophyllums and Arisaema species in the ground as soon as possible and no later than June I would say (in a cold, continental climate); if not possible, keep them in pots and wait until next year.
Also, do not grow them in pots longer than necessary, they like to go in exploration towards the center of the earth!

 

Another practical implication when growing these species from seeds: use taller pots, even the young seedlings like to have space for ‘deep’ exploration; it’s in their nature.

Few other Roscoea tubers pictures – the invasion of the Roscoea? :0

* All plants shown in the pictures have been grown from seeds.

You may also want to read Hunker Down and Hold On: Contractile Roots Give Skunk Cabbage Another Special Trait.

An update to the first notes on Erythronium germination from Feb. 9.

Erythronium grandiflorum seeds have started to germinate in moist storage (fridge) last week; they were kept moist through a warm, then cold cycle. I have another pot sown outdoors in late summer; a small sample of seeds was kept on purpose in the fridge to note the germination start.

Erythronium grandiflorum (Glacier lily) germination start (mid March, in the fridge)

And this is how the Erythronium americanum seedlings look right now (under indoor lights). Those who sowed the seeds outdoors should expect the seedlings in late March/April, depending on the weather (they will have a more natural look like in the featured image).

Erythronium americanum (Trout lily) seedlings March 2019 (germinated indoors reason why a bit elongated)

Spring must be coming! And, as usual, it will be fast and furious.
So, I will let you know now what will happen next with the Erythronium seedlings.
They will keep growing for a few months (water well, may use a diluted fertilizer). As some point, they’ll decide to go dormant. Don’t be scared, it is normal. When you notice the foliage starting to yellow, reduce the watering. Keep your pot in a shaded location (cover with a mesh to deter critters from digging, if this applies) and water only once in a while.

You can see in the plate how one year old tubers may look more or less, depending how well you grow them (mine were crowded in the pot).
I made this plate one year ago to show the similarity between the tubers and the seeds (size and shape wise). Interesting, isn’t it?

You can keep raising them in pots for a couple of more years and then plant them in the garden.
I personally plant them out after just one season in pot; nature can take its course after that. The only other Erythronium species I raised from fresh seeds, E. dens-canis, follows the same pattern.

There is so much more to learn about Erythronium and it’s easily done. Anyone can read and/or download Ian Young’s e-book: Erythroniums in Cultivation. Find it here: http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=15212.0

 

 

Notes on Erythronium germination I (from February 9, 2019)

Just a note for those who purchased Erythronium americanum seeds last year (that was a nice crop) – the seeds kept in moist storage at cold (fridge) are germinating! Luckily that I had to look for other moist packed seeds for an order.
Depending where you are, temperature wise, this may be happening in your pot right now! Exciting :)

Erythronium americanum germinating seeds Feb.9 2019

E. grandiflorum seeds are looking OK but no signs of germination yet, after all they were collected much later than E. americanum. I’ll keep you posted.
More sowing to do….

New update: Erythronium grandiflorum seeds germinated well, both in pots and also the seeds that were sown directly in the garden! Sowing Erythronium fresh seeds or seeds that have been kept moist packed it is the ‘secret’ for good germination. Growing the seedlings and having them reach a flowering stage, it is another story…
Most Erythronium species enjoy a moist location (at least for start of the season); trying to grow them in a dry location never gives good results.

The first seeds of Calochortus leichtlinii (moist/cold stratified in the fridge) are emerging the radicles.
I noticed them since last week with a magnifying glass and they are big enough now for a picture. I don’t know if they really have to be kept at cold until the radicles start growing but best to be sure (about 10 weeks of cold/moist stratification).

Calochortus leichtlinii seeds starting to germinate after 2.5 months of cold/moist stratification

Calochortus tolmiei seedlings are already above ‘ground’! (vermiculite in this case).

Calochortus tolmiei seedlings

 

Before the FAQ on pre-ordering, mea culpa for providing wrong advice regarding Paeonia brownii germination.
Seeds arrived at a very busy time last fall (not that this should be an excuse), and after a quick search I wrongly assumed they require a warm cycle for root protruding followed by a cold one for shoot growing, like many other peony species.

I also followed this line of thought and kept my seeds in moist storage at room temperature starting mid-October. By January I felt something was not right and at the beginning of February I put the Ziploc bag containing the seeds in the fridge. One month later few of them already show cracked teguments!

Paeonia brownii seeds after 1 month of cold-moist stratification (fridge)

Good information IS available on the subject if one looks well enough and uses some critical thinking. I am sure that an AI would have come with the right advice in a split second.
Paeonia brownii seeds require 2-3 months of cold/moist stratification in order to germinate.

Those who received seeds last year please click to read the pdf below; better even, download it for your files. It contains a plant profile for Paeonia brownii with everything you need to know. It mentions that the young roots are sensitive, so as soon as I’ll notice the roots growing I will take one more picture, plant them in pots in a well-drained mix, and continue to provide the remaining cold period as such.

Paeonia brownii: distribution, ecology, propagation, cultivation

There is much talk about AI writing these days; I even answered recently a short questionnaire for someone working in AI development, looking to better understand the problems of products/content writing process encountered by on-line businesses.
No doubt, the time will come when they will do all the work for us: faster and competently.

Until then, I shall be excused for continuing to make humanly mistakes.
Who knows, maybe in the future this will remain a ‘signature’ of our writings.
They will inherently contain, somewhere, somehow, an error. 
A tiny mark of our beautifully flawed human nature.

Yes, it is possible especially if you don’t pay good attention in late fall.

Somehow I didn’t notice the first fruit produced by Calycanthus until last Saturday! It flowered beautifully last spring and then a few green fruits were aborted during late summer. I thought that was it and didn’t pay attention afterwards.
A nice surprise; I received the young plant three years ago from a friend and it was very satisfying for both of us to see it fruitful :)

Calycanthus floridus (Carolina allspice) is an excellent native shrub which can be grown in many situations from sun to shade; fast growing with beautiful shiny foliage, it is rarely affected by any pests. Did I forget to mention the sweetly fragrant, burgundy flowers?
The fruit is an interesting large, brown capsule, which can be mistaken with a fallen leaf/small branch, and holds few large seeds. They are very easy to germinate (
read about nicking) and show up with convoluted cotyledon leaves (a rare case).


Speaking NA natives, I put together a short list of other species which flower around the same time in mid April-May, and are suitable for cold climates. They all grow in the same bed with the Calycanthus. If only I would have more space….
T. cuneatum, T. luteum, Uvularia grandiflora, Mitella diphylla, Asarum canadense, Hepatica acutiloba, Trautvetteria caroliniensis

I don’t aim to repeat here everything written about the gibberellic acid; most is easily accessible on the wide net. Anyone interested in plants knows that gibberellins are plant hormones which control various processes and the synthetic forms of the gibberellic acid are used in the horticultural industry for various purposes: from seed germination to inducing early flowering, fruit set, hybridization, and so on.

For those who never use it and/or are at the beginning of their growing from seeds journey, I will emphasize a few practical aspects about preparing and using a GA3 solution for home sowing by describing precisely what I do.

First, sources of GA3:  google and you shall find :)
Every year there are various on-line offerings of powder GA3. I do not want to advertise for one source or another, just a warning: if something looks too cheap, it may not be the best quality.

How to use GA3

In powder form – many still employ this method although it is not as reliable as a prepared solution. Personally I don’t use the powder treatment; you cannot be sure of the concentration applied and if the seeds will absorb it equally.
 Nevertheless, it’s easy to apply. One of the most common methods is to place the seeds on a moist folded piece of paper towel or a coffee filter and to add the GA3 (the amount taken on a toothpick tip). Place everything inside a plastic bag and keep it there until next day; then, sow the seeds right away.

Solution if you want to be sure about the concentration, it is advisable to use it as a solution. The suitable concentrations to promote seed germination vary among different species, and there are still many species for which we don’t know if their germination would be better with GA3.

Many times you just need to experiment. I noticed from my experience and reading lots of articles on seed germination that good results can be obtained using concentrations from 250 ppm to 1000 ppm.

It is not difficult to prepare your own solution: best is to make a basic 1000 ppm solution and then use it as such or at lower concentrations by dilution.

 How to prepare your basic 1000 ppm GA3 solution (assuming you have GA3 98% purity)

The basic stock solution of 1000 ppm (parts per million) is prepared by dissolving GA3 in water at a rate of 1mg (1000 mg= 1 g) in 1 ml (1000 ml= 1 l).

Therefore, if you buy one packet of 100 mg GA3, it will have to be dissolved in 100 ml of water to obtain a 1000 ppm solution; 200 mg in 200 ml and so on….
For home use I don’t think anyone needs more than 100 ml, so let’s do this:

Have handy: your powder GA3 100 mg, 100 ml distilled water (tap water OK too), little amount of alcohol (purest ethanol possible), and a clean 100 ml (or larger) bottle for the final solution. I use the water at room temperature.

Bottle with GA3 solution

Add the powder and maybe ¼ of the water, plus a few drops of alcohol in the bottle and start shaking well; be patient; add more of the water and keep shaking. If the GA3 doesn’t dissolve well, add a few more drops of alcohol; shaking, shaking….20(30) min. should do it.

If after all this the powder has not entirely dissolved it means the GA3 you bought had many impurities.

So you have your 1000 ppm solution.
Label your 1000 ppm GA3 bottle and keep it in the fridge. Don’t forget that this is a chemical substance after all, and it shouldn’t be kept in containers without a clear label.
The solution remains active for at least 2 years, probably even longer, but of course its efficacy will decrease.

To prepare a 500 ppm solution, extract any given quantity from the 1000 ppm sol. and add the same quantity of water, all in a separate bottle (don’t forget to label it).

What to treat with GA3?

Think first about what kind of seeds you are sowing and which are their germination requirements.

GA3 is often used to replace the cold period required by various species for seeds germination (cold/moist stratification) and to speed up germination in general.
Therefore, if you live in a warm climate, you are running short of time, or want to speed up the process, you can use it for these purposes.
Warning: it does not always work; don’t be disappointed. For some species even very cold winters won’t do the trick to break seeds dormancy.
Also, sometimes, it is necessary to use a combination of treatments.

For those living in a climate with cold winters, it is much simpler and even better to sow and provide the cold/moist stratification outdoors over the winter.

For Aconitum spp. (and other Ranunculaceae species which have seeds with immature embryos), GA3 has been found useful to promoting embryo growth, so indirectly it will improve germination.

It also comes in handy when sowing older seeds, which may have a lower germination capacity.

There is no point to use GA3 for any kind of seeds. For example, in the case of species with very hard/impermeable seed coats (Fabaceae), using GA3 makes no difference because it cannot be absorbed.

Applying the treatment

Prepare a few small containers (bottle caps, small holders, yoghurt cups…), place your seeds inside and pour GA3 solution on top, just enough to cover the seeds. For larger size seeds, you can also use small plastic bags. I usually leave the seeds in solution until next day.
Important: have everything ready and sow the next day after the treatment; water the pots well, and place at warm or cold as required.

GA3 treatment and sowing the seeds afterwards; sow as usual, next day after treating the seeds

For tiny, fine seeds (Saxifraga for example) it’s more practical to place the seeds on a piece of paper towel, soak it with GA3 solution, fold the paper and keep it in a plastic bag until next day; before sowing, just squeeze the paper towel and then it will be easy to shake the seeds on top of the potting mix. Likewise, a pipette/syringe can be used to collect and distribute the small seeds on the mix.

Side effects: one common side effect is that the seedlings will grow elongated and weak, especially if the concentration was too strong and/or the seed coats remain attached to the cotyledons (in this case cover the pot with a moist paper towel, and you can remove the seed coats after they get soft); Gentiana lutea seedlings after GA3 treatment.

 

What I am using it for?

I had my share of using GA3 just for fun, like many others probably. Right now I sometime use GA3:

On experimental purpose when reliable germination info is not available and for older seeds to test the germination capacity, especially for small size seeds.

On a more regular base for:

Glaucidium palmatum: there is a bit of controversy in this case and after I have germinated seeds for a few years and also heard other people’s experiences, it is fair to say that this is a species with combined morpho-physiological dormancy: from any given batch, some seeds will germinate at warm, some only after a cold period. I find that with a GA3 treatment I obtain a better germination at warm (but a few seeds will still germinate only next year after one more warm/cold period).

One can easily sow Glaucidium without GA3 in late fall/winter and provide cold/moist stratification; some seeds will germinate in the following spring, some in the second year.

Podophyllum hexandrum – for the Chinese mayapple,  the treatment with GA3 will induce germination with the true leaves, thus speeding up the process; in the second image – seedlings obtained with GA3 treatment in the first summer.

Aquilegia species:  only because I start my Aquilegia species indoors; I use 500 ppm GA3 to promote a good, uniform germination (but you can easily provide Aquilegia with cold/moist stratification and obtain good germination).Aquilegia nigricans germinated seeds

Sometimes for Gentiana species: some will germinate well when treated with 500- 1000 ppm GA3 (G. lutea, G. purpurea).

 

I also got good results for Rhodiola spp., few Thalictrum species (to speed up the germination), Androsace villosa (and subsp. of villosa).

Germinating right now after GA3 treatment and short term cold/dark – Androsace barbulata. I noticed them a bit too late but they will green up under ligths.

Androsace barbulata seedlings

 

For Aconitum dry stored seeds; some Aconitum species will not germinate after the seeds get too dry, and I am trying to see if/how GA3 can induce/improve their germination; read more and see images: Starting notes on Aconitum germination.

Conclusion: to use it or not to use it?

Keep in mind that GA3 is not a ‘miracle’ solution for all the seeds dormancy/germination related problems.
It is definitely an aid for seeds germination and we can have fun experimenting, but anyone can very well grow plants from seeds without the help of GA3.

 

 

 

A very good day for updates to the hot water treatment (howling winds, blowing snow and ice pellets…).

The first seedlings resulted from the hot water treatment are basking under the lights right now and I can draw the conclusion that although it is necessary to repeat the treatment because not all seeds will imbibe after a first soak, overall this is a very easy and effective treatment.
I recommend it for all the species in Fabaceae family. I did sow Hedysarum in the fall two years ago and got poor germination in the spring.

Various Fabaceae germinating fast after hot water treatment

I just sown the swollen seeds and left the others in water, repeating the treatment. No small surprise, a few seeds will even start to germinate in water (Oxytropis lanata, O. halleri and Hedysarum grandiflorum).

Hedysarum grandiflorum hot water treated seeds

I didn’t show it previously but I also treated Lupinus breweri seeds; they react beautifully (with repeat of the treatment).

Lupinus breweri seeds treated with hot water

One more picture with the first Baptisia seedlings: Baptisia ‘Solar Flare’; it feels good to think about solar flares today!

Baptisia ‘Solar Flare’ seedlings

Notes on Erythronium germination I (February 9, 2019)

Just a note for those who purchased Erythronium americanum seeds last year (that was a nice crop) – the seeds kept in moist storage at cold (fridge) are germinating! Luckily that I had to look for other moist packed seeds for an order.
Depending where you are, temperature wise, this may be happening in your pot right now! Exciting :)

Erythronium americanum germinating seeds Feb.9 2019

E. grandiflorum seeds are looking OK but no signs of germination yet, after all they were collected much later than E. americanum. I’ll keep you posted.
More sowing to do….

With this and that time goes by and the post about GA3 for the seeds treatments series is not ready.
I offer a short preview from the section: What am I using it for?

“I had my share of using GA3 just for fun, like many others probably. Right now I am using GA3 on a regular base just for few species (like Glaucidium, Podophyllum hexandrum…), in experimental purpose when reliable germination info is not available and for older seeds to test their germination capacity/viability (especially for small size seeds)”.

Treated with GA3 and sown experimental: Primula glaucescens, because it’s a bit late for outdoor cold/moist stratification and I found an article reporting good germination using GA3. It is Fridays Seeds, so here’s one more picture with soaked seeds :)

Primula glaucescens seeds soaked in GA3

Testing for: Primula minima and  Soldanella pusilla – wild coll. seeds in 2017. I don’t know how long they keep good germination capacity and before I rush to collect a larger quantity of such seeds it would be good to know.

GA3 seeds treatment and a flower for all readers :)                                             

Explanations in more detail next time…And, more flowers because we need them badly.

Primula minima and Soldanella pusilla in wild habitat, Carpathian Mts.