Hepatica – The queens of the woodlands

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As soon as I saw the first sign of Hepatica buds movement in the garden and the tiny new seedlings of the year, I felt a sense of urgency to organize all the material I’ve been gathering on Hepatica.
The queens of the woodlands will bring the forest floor to life once again in no time!

Having had other posts published and a lot of pictures I thought it would be easy; more than a week later, I was proven wrong.
I am almost done – this is the big purple button leading to their page :)

Explore the world of North American Hepatica!


These are the published sections of the page (you can enter by clicking the pictures as well):

Two more sections to follow shortly:
          Hepatica: Pollination, seeds & germination

          Pictures gallery

 

 

Warm Peonies

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Instead of getting warmer the weather seems to go backwards. Good news is that in the cold frames things are definitely moving in the right direction.

I noticed the first little red shoots of Paeonia japonica on April 1st. The seeds were sown last late summer: hypogeal germinators, forming roots during the warm period and the first shoots after the winter cold period (cold/moist stratification).

Paeonia japonica one year old seedlings with the first shoots peeking from the pot gravel, April 2018

This is the reason I recently recommended that seeds of Paeonia species (except Paeonia tenuifolia) to be bought and sown as warm germinators. The sowing can be done throughout summer (up to August in a cold climate).
If sown in late fall or winter nothing bad happens, just that it makes no sense to occupy the space with the pots since the seeds need a warm cycle first, plus in case of a wet winter the seeds may rot.

The summer-fall sowing is very straightforward, just use taller than usual pots, if possible: sow, water very well and protect the pots from the critters. Keep well watered and when the winter arrives, place the pots in a frost free location: cold frames, or ‘plant’ them in the ground.

Keep in mind that even if you don’t see anything there are (should be) roots inside the pots!
In this idea, keep an eye on the pots, not to receive excessive rainfall, especially when it gets very cold; this easily leads to roots rot.

Another sowing method is to provide the warm cycle required by keeping the seeds in moist vermiculite in a Ziploc bag (indoors at room temperature) until they form the roots and then place pot them up and place the pots in the fridge for 2-3 months for the cold period. This method requires more supervision; I did it once and now I think it is best to go with the natural cycles of warm and cold.

But if you purchase the seeds too late in the season or don’t have a cold frame, it is a doable method.

I am also thinking about a third method for those on cold climates who want/need to sow in October-November and don’t like to play with Ziploc bags: sow in pots as usual and keep them in the house until Dec./Jan. for the warm cycle (this would give the 2-3 months required), check gently to see if the roots have grown, then gradually place the pots outdoors under the snow (or in the fridge). Gradually means, first keep them for a while in a cold location (garage…); also keep in mind that we don’t usually have reliable snow cover.

I showed it with another occasion, and it is nothing new about it, but here’s what these peonies seeds are doing during the warm cycle,  no matter if sown in pots or kept in the Ziploc bags. We need to be aware at all times of the roots growing in pots that otherwise don’t show anything visible on top. If you let them dry out excessively or to freeze, of course no shoots will show up in the spring!

Paeonia rockii hybrid, emerging roots after a warm period provided in moist vermiculite; the roots will grow further, so best to use taller pots for sowing

As said in this older post The sleeping beauties, it is worth growing species peonies from seeds: they are beautiful, hard to find and when it happens to be available they are on the expensive side. Not all the seedlings may come true to species because of cross-pollination, but even the hybrids obtained from the species are special.

Little monsters – Podophyllums yet again

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How can one offer unusual seeds/species on a constant base?
Well, by first growing and establishing mother plants from which to collect the seeds, of course.

So, three years ago I engaged in growing from seeds various Chinese Podophyllums (which actually I promised to call Dysosma).
The protocol I use works wonders (see the related posts below) and in short time I ended up with more plants than I could ever plant in my garden. They surely grow like little monsters! After deep meditation, I decided to act like a responsible adult and part ways with a few of them.

Podophyllum versipelle x pleianthum, bare rooted plants, safe to be shipped at this stage

Then, I felt free to proceed sowing the next generation :)) It is a first for Podophyllum mairei!

Podophyllum mairei germinated seeds

Here’s to the next little monsters!

Podophyllum mairei – new sowings

Many warm germinators species have been recently sown as well; we’ll talk about them later…last touches are being made for re-opening the Seeds shop and accepting Pre-orders for the new season!

 

Rainbows in the Spring II

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Spring has arrived; officially. We know that it will arrive, eventually…Except for snowdrops and few early crocus not much is moving.

Few of the newly planted Iris reticulata hybrids have started to flower though (protected at times with a light fleece). They are early and certainly a bit affected by the weather.
All the result of hard working Canadian Iris breeder Alan McMurtrie; learn more about them on his website: http://www.reticulatas.com/

Iris reticulata ‘Chameleon’ (a slight mistake with the bulbs apparently)

There is hope that more of his wonderful hybrids will became available in Canada. They are all hardy, cheerful signs of spring and even slightly fragrant; the ‘North Star’ is very fragrant!

Iris reticulata ‘North Star’

And, close your eyes and imagine sea waves rolling gently towards the shoreline.

Iris reticulata ‘Sea Breeze’

There will be more :)

* The related post I wrote a few years ago (see below), explains the title – Rainbows in the spring.

The pain and joy of dealing with moist stored seeds

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When I embarked on my seeds adventures few years ago, I’ve decided that there will be no DOD’s offered by BotanyCa (DOD = dead on delivery).
Sometimes seeds won’t germinate from unforeseen reasons, abnormalities and so on… Offering seeds that you know from the beginning won’t germinate or will germinate in very low percentage is a completely different story.

So, I accept the losses and the fact that there will always be leftover seeds germinated in the Ziploc bags by early spring.
When it comes to seeds, just like in nature, everything is accomplished with a great waste of energy. Yet, I am always sad when the time comes to end their ephemeral life.

Stylophorum lasiocarpum germinated seeds

Saruma henryi: germinated seeds which cannot be safely shipped anymore

 On the other hand, I imagine the joy of all those who bought moist packed seeds when they start to germinate!

Other species which ALWAYS start to germinate by late February when kept moist are: Asarum ssp,, Claytonia, most Corydalis,  Aconitum, Hepatica, Podophyllum spp., sometimes Maianthemum stellatum and M. canadense.
*If kept dry some of these species may germinate in the second year, in low percentage.
I hope there is be a better understanding now why seeds of these species need to be ordered in early winter!

 

Great expectations

The first Helleborus plants grown from seeds are set to flower this spring; knowing the ‘parents’ I cannot help having great expectations.

Helleborus x hybridus, grown from seeds of double red parents

I started to grow Helleborus from seeds just by accident really – read about the beginning in Helleborus journeying. Considering their high price on the market, it is something worth to grow yourself, especially when more than one plant is desired. And who can stop at one Helleborus?

Helleborus purpurascens grown from wild collected seeds (photo last fall) – it doesn’t seem it will flower this year but starting to look very much like its parents (see photos in the wild in Helleborus journeying)

Just like with the Epimediums, when growing Helleborus from seeds of open pollinated plants you should expect endless flower variations and many nice surprises along the way.
Not so nice surprises are also possible of course – that’s when the compost pile comes in handy ;)

There are more young plants in the pipeline: seedlings of anemone center parents (my favourites) including from H. Cherry Blossoms, various picotee forms, H. argutifolius, and the youngest of all – H. caucasicus (emerging seedlings in the featured image).

Helleborus argutifolius seedlings

Helleborus x hybridus seedlings

A most satisfying journey, indeed.

Growing Syneilesis aconitifolia from seeds

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Growing Syneilesis from seeds is a straightforward process if the fruits are OK.
The problem of empty fruits it is most likely due to repeated clonal propagation. Syneilesis it is mostly propagated by division which is a much faster method of propagation; however, we end up with large populations having the same genotype.
Syneilesis has bisexual tubular florets (featured image), fertile (according with Flora of China) but like most Compositae it needs cross pollination in order to set seeds. So, in order to obtain a good seed set it is necessary to have in the garden a few plants that were grown from seeds.

For now we will have to contend with the few seeds packets I manage to select from the fruits kindly provided by my friends.
It is really not worth the time selecting those few packets, but I like to do it when I can because not all people have access to buy plants. Their only chance of having this species (and others) in their garden is to grow it from seeds.

Syneilesis is a warm germinator (room temperature) and it can be started indoors under lights or outdoors as soon as the frost danger is gone; the ‘seeds’ germinate in about 10-15 days.

Syneilesis aconitifolia seedlings; they have only one cotyledon and may remain at this stage during their first season.

 

They seem like not growing much in this phase but in fact they grow up good size roots – for this reason it is best not to use very small/short pots for sowing.

After transplanting the seedlings usually go dormant for a while and sometimes put up a true leaf in late summer/fall. Some remain dormant and will grow the true leaves only in the next season.
It is possible that some seedlings will form true leaves right away just like Podophyllums do. This behaviour can be seen in other rhizome forming species as well.
The temperatures and water regime may also have a role in the growth pattern.

Syneilesis aconitifolia seedling showing the first true leaf

I will end with a few pictures from one of the donors’ wonderful garden. The pictures were also kindly donated, so please respect the copyright.

Syneilesis is by definition a foliage plant and you can observe how well it looks in this rich, textural composition with other shade/part shade species.

Syneilesis aconitifolia – late spring; when emerging the leaves are hairy

Syneilesis aconitifolia – summer

Syneilesis aconitifolia – late fall

More Comps flowers and apologies

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I knew this it will happen sooner or later and I knew it will be a damn comp – running short on seeds for an order.
Luckily there are many other species that I can make up with for the missing Aster alpinus seeds.

Aster alpinus – good (upper right corner) and bad ‘seeds’

The embarrassing moment put behind, let’s have a look at a few more Comps flowers.

Compositae (Asteraceae): seeds, achenes and cypselae

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Call them as you wish

Initially I wrote a short post for Growing Syneilesis from seeds for the germination page, and then I thought, wait a minute, it is not the only Compositae with fruits/seeds related problems.
So, I wrote a longer post on the subject and then thought, who’s going to read all this? Finally, I wrote another shorter post, and there will be more flower pictures later.

I think everyone knows that in Compositae (Asteraceae) what seems to be a single flower is actually a cluster – a composite of smaller flowers (florets), usually called a head which contains disk and/or ray flowers; both types can be bisexual or unisexual.
And, many species require cross-pollination in order to set seeds; the pollen has a special presentation mechanism which prevents self-pollination (I will talk more about this for Syneilesis).

Probably many are also aware that what we call ‘seeds’ in Asteraceae are actually fruits. In simple botanical terms they are single-seeded nuts. Scientifically, they have been called achenes by some and cypselae by others (see note).

So, we don’t see, collect and sow the actual seeds, but the whole fruits.
It is often a deceptive situation because copious amount of fruits are formed but most of them are seedless (cypsela is a very good name to illustrate that) – like it often happens in the case of Syneilesis aconitifolia. Another example, from my garden this time, is Achillea ageratifolia ssp. serbica.

Syneilesis aconitifolia – lots of empty fruits

Achillea ageratifolia ssp. serbica, flowering very well last summer, alas just lots of empty cypsalae were formed

Conclusion:

If we call them fruits or seeds is not that important; I myself call them ‘seeds’. The important thing is to understand the distinction and be able to assess the situation when it comes to sowing, namely if you are really sowing ‘seeds’ or just ‘fluff’ (e.g., empty fruits).

This is why it is always a good idea to carefully check the fruits for many species of this family; take a note on Aster spp. and Solidago, Anaphalis, but not only.
Often is easy to select the good ones (which are plump) when observed with the naked eye; sometimes with the use of a magnifier – and a lot of time…The smaller they are, the harder is to distinguish the good ones.
For large quantities of fruits the cut method can be used by selecting samples.

Anthemis carpatica ssp. pyrethriformis – selected good and empty cypselae using a magnifiyng glass

Sowing seedless fruits, no matter what we call them, and no matter the plant family, will never result in germination.
Read about Linnaea borealis and Acer triflorum.

Note: “Fruits of composites have been called “achenes” because they resemble true achenes. Achenes are dry, hard, single-seeded fruits derived from unicarpellate, superior ovaries. Ovaries of composites are bicarpellate and inferior. Fruits derived from ovaries of composites are called cypselae “ – Flora of North America

cypsela – from the Greek kypselé, a box, hollow vessel


 

 

Seedless Friday – Compositae

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Well, not quite seedless – here’s one image. I didn’t have time to finish what I wanted to do for the Compositae family and, taking into consideration the weather here, maybe it is for the best. We can really use some colours at this time!

Centaurea salonitana seeds

So, just a gallery with mostly Centaurea and few others thistle-like species :)
The names are displayed on mouse hover, or click and browse through the gallery

Centaurea jankae

Centaurea salonitana

Centaurea triumfettii ssp. stricta

Centaurea pseudophrygia

Centaurea kotschyana

Centaurea drabifolia

Centaurea kotschyana yellow form

Jurinea mollis

Echinops crispus

Cirsium purpuratum

Cynara cardunculus var. scolymus

Swallowtail on wild Cirsium

 

 

 

Friday’s Seeds – Boraginaceae

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I only have a small collection of genera/species from the  Boraginaceae family. I must work better at this family, that’s for sure.
Here they are for now: Onosma, Omphalodes, Pulmonaria and something a bit more rare, Craniospermum.
And because species placed formerly in Hydrophyllaceae are now included in Boraginaceae, there is also Hydrophyllum.

For names, hover over images or click to open the gallery

Brachybotrys paridiformis Maxim. ex Oliv.

Craniospermum subvillosum lehm.

Hydrophyllum canadense L.

Omphalodes lojkae Sommier & Levier

Onosma caucasica ssp. oligotricha T.N. Popova

Pulmonaria mollis Wulfen ex Hornem.

Only one species/genus is shown, a couple more species are displayed in the new Boraginaceae page.

 

Growing Podophyllum from seeds, including Dysosma and Sinopodophyllum

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While in the Berberidaceae realm, here’s a post where I outlined as best as possible, the process of growing Podophyllums from seeds from A to Z.

The Chinese Podophyllums (syn. Dysosma), share similar seeds and germination requirements as our native Podophyllum peltatum (mayapple). In all cases, the seeds are enclosed inside fleshy fruits. After the fruits are collected, it is important to extract and clean the seeds right away. This can be a bit unpleasant because the inside containing the seeds is gelatinous (use a sieve and lightly rub the seeds out and rinse, rinse and rinse again).

The sowing must be done right away (Sept./October) or the seeds must be placed in moist vermiculite in Ziploc bags until sowing. The seeds are easy to keep in moist vermiculite as long as were well cleaned; you only have to check the moisture level once in a while (one exception noted for Dysosma aurantiocaule, when the seeds got soft fast, but I had a small lot of seeds and cannot really generalize).

I must emphasize that these seeds are hydrophilic, and using dry seeds to sow, in my opinion, is a complete waste of time.

Dysosma seeds in moist storage

The required cycles for germination are: Light WARM (late fall temperatures)/COLD.

  1. Sowing outside: the time would be early to late fall. Sow as usual in pots/large containers, water and keep them over the winter in a cold frame. Easy done, no worries!

Podophyllum peltatum, Mayapple, seedlings germinated outdoors showing the cotyledon leaves; they will remain at this stage in the first year and do not need pricking out. Later in the season, they become dormant (do not throw away the pots!)

  1. Sowing indoors: usually done in the winter/early spring with seeds that have been kept moist and allowed a light warm/cold period. The cold period can be provided in a cold garage/fridge. It is not advisable to use this method unless enough light can be provided for the growing seedlings (light stand, conservatory).

If someone wants to speed up the process, the Ziploc bags with seeds can be taken out of the fridge around late January/February and kept at room temperature; gradually the seeds will start to germinate and can be potted up one by one and placed under the lights.

Dysosma hybrids (pleiantha x versipellis, syn. Podophyllum pleianthum x versipelle) seedlings

Or, leave the Ziploc in the fridge until all seeds start to germinate towards spring (approx. March/April) – as well, pot them up and provide adequate conditions until they can go outside.

Dysosma hybrid, seeds germinated in the fridge, April 21

In most cases, only cotyledon leaves will be formed, in other cases the true leaves will appear as well. Usually, Podophyllum peltatum will form only cotyledon leaves in the first season, grow for a while and then go dormant; the Chinese ones are variable, most will form a true leaf. When growing from seeds there is always great variability.
Keep the seedlings in a part shaded place, water and feed lightly. At some point in the summer they may go dormant, especially if very hot weather.

All the seedlings which didn’t form a true leaf in the first year, will do it in the second year. Be patient, like with all other species that form a rhizome. In general, 3-4 years are necessary to obtain a good young plant; they will grow really fast after the root system has bulked up.

Podophyllum hexandrum (syn. Synopodophyllum hexandrum)

The difference in this case is that the seeds are not hydrophilic, so they can be kept dry in the fridge for quite a few years. Of course, when sown fresh (fall), they will germinate in the spring.

For dry seeds, a GA3 treatment followed by sowing at room temperature usually will result in rapid germination, and sometimes most seedlings will present the true leaf. 

Podophyllum hexandrum seedling with true leaf

Important for all species: in the first 1-2 years they put lots of energy into forming their radicular system; this translates in the fact that the seedlings need enough space to develop. So, either sow fewer seeds per pot or transplant them in the early stage in individual pots.
I think my pictures show very well what I mean; learn from my mistakes ;) If you sowed to dense and didn’t prick them early, don’t panic; when still dormant (very early spring), shake the soil, untangle the roots gently and repot in a fresh mix in large size pots.

Podophyllum hexandrum crowded seedlings after one season growth  in the same pot

Podophyllum hexandrum one-year seedlings prepared for repotting, notice the variation in size

Again, there is always variation when growing from seeds; we cannot expect all the seeds, even from the same batch, to grow the same: the collection site, mother-plant, ambient factors, all have an influence in germination & growth of the seedlings. This picture with one year old Dysosma plants shows it very well:

Dysosma hybrid one year old plants, prepared to be repotted

I hope this will be helpful for all wanting to grow any Podophyllum/Dysosma species from seeds – Happy Podos growing!

Friday’s seeds – Berberidaceae

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This Friday I indulge in one of my favourite plant families; say it out loud – Berberidaceae!

It is a large family and here I emphasize of course, the ornamental side of it. Many known and beloved garden perennials (usually for the woodland gardens) belong to this family: Epimediums, Vancouveria, Achlys, Podophyllums, Jeffersonia, Ranzania, Diphylleia and so on. From the woody species, Berberis and Mahonia are widely cultivated.

What else they have in common, seeds speaking and referring to the perennials, is the fact that in most cases, these are hydrophilic (i.e. do not tolerate desiccation) and so for optimum results they need to be sown fresh or kept in moist storage.
The pattern required for germination in most cases is WARM/COLD, sometimes with multiple cycles (see Caulophyllum).
Hover over pictures for names

Two genera, Caulophyllum and Gymnospermium, present another rarely seen feature in Angiosperms, namely that the ovary walls burst open and the seeds develop and ripen in a ‘naked’ state (they look like fruits, but nonetheless are just seeds). Fascinating.

Gymnospermium altaicum (Pall.)Spach

Caulophyllum thalictroides (L.) Michx.

For more please see the newly published Berberidaceae page, the 10th in line!

I know seeds are boring (but how else can we obtain plants?), so here are few plant pictures, mostly to show species I don’t have seeds yet: Vancouveria hexandra, Achlys triphylla,   a nice, fat Dysosma and a hybrid Epimedium raised from ‘Amber Queen’ seeds (hybrid). For others like Caulophyllum, Jeffersonia, Podophyllum…I already showed pictures many times and they are also featured in the Seeds shop.

Vancouveria hexandra, garden cultivated; the fruits and seeds are very close with those of Epimedium.

Achlys triphylla, Vanilla leaf (Deer foot) in wild habitat, Victoria Island, BC.

Dysosma versipellis (syn. Podophyllum versipelle) at Butchart Gardens, BC

Epimedium ex. ‘Amber Queen’, a 3-years old plant flowering in my garden (for Epimedium only hybrids will be obtained when growing from seeds)

Only one more picture, more for the purpose to emphasize the name that should be used for Jeffersonia dubia – guilty of charge myself; I’ll try to go the right way from now on.

Plagiorhegma dubium (syn. Jeffersonia dubia)

Additional pictures will be posted later on FB in order to save space here on the website.

 

 

Fridays Seeds in lieu of flowers – Pulsatilla

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I don’t remember if I’ve already done a Friday’s seeds about Pulsatilla; in any case this is more to draw attention to the Pulsatilla species from the shop.

There are not many, but all are fresh of this year and this is the best time to sow!
See them here in the Pulsatilla category.

I don’t have many pictures of these gorgeous species, reason why I have to show the seeds. I know they are not as attractive as the flowers but what can I do, and in any case, they can be used for ID purpose.

Pulsatilla albana ssp. armena – the Pulsatilla ‘seeds’ are actually fruits – achenes with “fluffy tails”.

Pulsatilla vernalis


 A good idea is to admire pictures while also reading advice on their germination at the same time – all on the Scottish Rock Garden forum! This is the link to Pulsatilla 2013 thread, but there are more topics on Pulsatilla: http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=9988.0

Note: I’ve already sown my batch (I have to practice on this genus) and there are few leftover seeds of Pulsatilla alpina var. alpina, which will come attached as a gift to the first order containing other Pulsatillas.

Pulsatilla alpina ssp. alpina (large, white flowers)

 While talking Ranunculaceae seeds that need to be sown asap, I recommend to also have a look at  Adonis vernalis.

Adonis vernalis

Winter getaway – Dobrogea II

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Continuing the Dobrogea I with other species which call this particular and beautiful region home.
I hope you already got a taste of it; this should make it easier when growing some of these species from seeds and also help selecting the garden location.

First a mention for two endemic species:

Campanula romanica:

Campanula romanica growing on a lichen covered rock outcrop, North Dobrogea, Romania

Centaurea jankae: a species with few populations known only to exist in Romania and Bulgaria. Good luck (and broken stems by wind/animals) made it to find a few late flowers to photograph.

Centaurea jankae

Remembering the sunny days of past summer, the flowers, the rocks and wildlife:

Stachys atherocalyx, very similar with Stachys recta that I offered seeds from Carpathian Mts.

Stachys atherocalyx

Hedysarum grandiflorum, as well just one late flowering stem was waiting to be immortalized :)

Hedysarum grandiflorum

Hedysarum grandiflorum habitat

Convolvulus cantabrica, perfect in a rockery and probably hardy in our area (Ontario) with reliable snow covered. I have a two-year old Convolvulus tragacanthodes growing in the rockery, we’ll see how it comes out from this winter.

Convolvulus cantabrica in wild habitat

Cephalaria uralensis

Cephalaria uralensis

The Dobrogean tortuga for a variation

Dobrogean tortuga, Testudo graeca

Thymus zygioides, found growing in the company of Paronychia cephalotes

Thymus zygioides

One more view from Macin Mts.

And a little lizard (Lacerta) basking in the sun

There were many other species of course; maybe more to follow when the next wave of arctic air hits us!

 

Fridays Seeds and much more about the fuzzy wild bean – Strophostyles

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I wanted something special for this arctic day and the woolly seeds of Strophostyles helvola are just perfect; I will stress again the woolly :)

Strophostyles helvola coiled pods and seeds

Strophostyles helvola, trailing wild bean (or amberique bean)  is an annual vine native to eastern Canada and the US; the pea-like flowers are light pink/lilac and they form pods very similar with those of Phaseolus vulgaris; the pod coils when it dries up to release 4-8 woolly  seeds.
The stems will trail on other plants, or if not, will inter-twine with each other on the ground, just like Amphicarpaea bracteata does (google images).

This species has had various medicinal uses for the Native Peoples, and there are also indications that the seeds were used as a food source; they were found in a few archeological sites in NA.

Those interested can read more about this in the curriculum of the Advanced Paleoethnobotany Seminar from Washington University: https://pages.wustl.edu/fritz/strophostyles-helvola-l.-elliot

And, while talking wild foods, it’s winter so new ideas are always welcomed – have a look at this article which recommends other edible species found on the coastal habitat (same where Strophostyles can also be found):

https://ncseagrant.ncsu.edu/coastwatch/previous-issues/2011-2/summer-2011/coastal-wild-edibles-stalking-the-wild-sea-lettuce/

What about: amberique-bean humus with cattails au gratin?
Go foraging this year! :))