Little treasures: dwarf Polygala species

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While waiting for Hepatica seeds to drop into the catching bags, ;) we can admire two dwarf Polygala species. I’m a big fan of Polygalas.

From the garden, flowering for the first time: Polygala amarella, the dwarf milkwort. This is a European species growing on limestone grasslands, slopes and rock ledges, up to subalpine level.

Polygala amarella, cultivated (grown from seeds wild coll. Carpathian Mts)

From our woods: Polygala paucifolia, the gaywings. I showed it many times but it flashes for attention, flowering more or less at the same time with Trillum grandiflorum. It is growing on deciduous and mixed forests, in part-shaded, slightly moist locations.

Polygala paucifolia in wild habitat

Polygala species are not difficult to grow from seeds, it is just that the seeds are very hard to “catch” and thus always in short supply; then the seedlings are best grown in the community pot for 2 years. Flowering can start in the third year and is very rewarding. Polygala vulgaris and P. major are also in line to flower this summer — it doesn’t get any better!

Timeline for Hepatica seeds: collecting maybe in the first week of June.
The offerings are taking shape in the Seeds Shop – check out the Hepatica category; final price/seeds per pck. will be established after collecting.

 

 

‘Nadezhda’ and more Pasque flowers

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Even if just for my own pleasure and occasional exchanges with friends, I like to give names to special plants that are obtained from seeds. I don’t spend time thinking for a name; they just dawn on me after a while always in relation with the person who provided the seeds, the origin of the seeds or some important event associated with the flowering, or a special color.

This Corydalis caucasica ex. fo. alba grown from seeds flowered first time last year and now it seems established in the garden. Not fo. alba anymore, even better! I particularly like the mauve lips in combination with the pure white spurs; one of my favorite color combinations, and not only for Corydalis. Its color starts deeper and becomes lighter as the flowers age.

So, I named it ‘Nadezhda’: to remind me of all of the above and about springtime in time of a Covid crisis. (Nadezhda in Russian = Hope in English)

Corydalis caucasica ‘Nadezhda’

Happy Easter Holidays to all celebrating at this time!

Pulsatilla ex. styriaca

Pulsatilla pratensis

Pulsatilla patens ssp. multifida

 

Slugs and Roscoea

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What do they have in common? Nothing, only that both deterred me from finishing the article on transplanting Hepatica seedlings.

But I don’t want to waste the occasion on showing something about Roscoea scillifolia fo. atropurpurea while I still can. As soon as possible it will be planted in the garden; just couldn’t figure out a proper space for it last year.

Shown here – the way the rhizomes like to bury deep into the pot (the same happens in the ground) and the distinctive ‘whiskers’ around the apical buds of R. scillifolia fo. atropurpurea (a good ID character ;).

Roscoea scillifolia fo. atropurpurea rhizomes; notice how they went deep into the tall pot during growth. The pot was kept in the garage over the winter (no watering).

If you grew Roscoea from seeds and/or have 3-4 years old rhizomes, they can be planted in the ground in late spring. Please read again: Contractile roots- a journey to the centre of the earth where I mentioned why and when this is best done (in a cold climate).

*Keep in mind that most Roscoea are showing up late in the season and more than this, R. scillifolia fo. atropurpurea has small flowers, so it needs a proper location in order to enjoy it.

Roscoea scillifolia fo. atropurpurea flowering in the summer

** The slugs are active now and careful watching for damage signs can help in early detection to avoid further damage to the seedlings and plants. It takes time but worth doing it.

Aquilegia ecalcarata: use it or lose it syndrome

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Many articles have been published regarding the relationship between the intra/interspecific variation of floral organs and the primary pollinators, and not only for Aquilegia.
So, it seems a bit superfluous to repeat that the length of the nectary spurs in Aquilegia species is an adaptation that has evolved to match the feeding structures of their pollinators (bees, hummingbirds,…and not only). The spurs development is achieved purely through cell-shape anisotropy.

In the case of Aquilegia ecalcarata, the spurless columbine, according to various sources the main pollinators are syrphid flies (with short feeding structures). Not having spurs, doesn’t make it a ‘false’ aquilegia; it is just a classic example of “use it or lose it” evolutionary syndrome :+)

A few studies using ancestral character reconstruction of pollination  syndromes have shown  that  the  ancestor  of  the  genus was pollinated  by  bees/bumblebees (see notes).* Aquilegia ecalcarata it is the only species that has lost its spurs.


Aquilegia ecalcarata Maximowicz, was reconsidered for a while under the name/genus of Semiaquilegia ecalcarata (Maximowicz) Sprague & Hutchinson; S. ecalcarata f. semicalcarata Schipczinski; S. simulatrix J. R. Drummond & Hutchinson.

Things have changed and, the genus Semiaquilegia Makino, is now recognized as a sister genus to Aquilegia (based on petal evolution and geographical affinities). It includes tuberous , herbaceous plants which differ from the genus Aquilegia L.

To set the record straight, we should use only the name Aquilegia ecalcarata. In keeping with my good sowing tradition for Aquilegia, I just treated a few seeds with GA3 500 ppm solution.** Sowing will follow tomorrow (cold/moist stratification for 1-2 months works very well, I just want to start them early).

* Extended phylogeny of Aquilegia: the bio-geographical and ecological patterns of two simultaneous but contrasting radiations:
http://www.plant-animal.es/pdfs/Bastida.et.al.2010.Pl.Syst.Evol.pdf

**For those in need, a reminder that they can read about GA3 preparation and utilisation on the Germination page: here

Ephedra distachya revisited

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By tradition in February I start the so called ‘warm sowings’: species that will germinate at room temperature. The seedlings are grown under lights indoors and by April/early May can already be acclimatize outdoors; in most cases, they are planted in the ground shortly after.

It is also a time when warm germinating species are re-tested for germination. Most species keep good germination rates for +/- 5 years (kept dry/cold) but there is no data available for all.

So, I considered necessary to re-test Ephedra distachya. It seems that the seeds are in good standing, starting to germinate in water in a few days. For those interested – the seeds are back in stock! If you want to grow something beautifully ‘different’, this species is for you.

Watch its journey from seeds to young plants in the plate below. This Ephedra likes hot summers, and it was no surprise that after a slow start in May/June (rainy & cold in 2019), has put up a nice growth from August till late fall.

Ephedra distachya 2019 journey from seeds to young plants in the ground; a reminder that it is a dioecious species – keep and grow a few seedlings for assurance of female/male plants ratio

The ‘warm games’ are declared open at BotanyCa; stay tuned for more seeds/seedlings happenings!

Tuesday exotica

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Let’s indulge in few ‘exotic’ late June flowers today. Roscoea species, regardless if they come with small or larger flowers, always bring a ‘tropical’ look to our cold climate gardens.

They are not difficult to grow from seeds, only require patience and I’m happy that more local customers have taken advantage of the seeds offered. Mature plants can be quite expensive when available and I consider that younger tubers will adapt better when planted in the ground.
I gave advice about planting them in this post: Contractile roots – a journey to the center of the earth?.

The tiny R. tibetica fo. atropurpurea fits better in a rockery nook or a container planting. The plant shown below close to Hepatica acutiloba is the result of a ‘location’ experiment; the Hepatica leaf is good for size scale!.

Clockwise: Roscoea scillifolia fo. atropurpurea (small but striking dark purple flowers), striped Roscoea cautleyoides form, Roscoea cautleyoides ‘Kew Beauty’ (flowers of a delicious creamy color) and the tiny Roscoea tibetica fo. atropurpurea ex. B-15 (seeds offered some years)

Here’s a better look at R. tibetica fo. atropurpurea:

Aconitum germination revised: 2019

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It may become a tradition to publish revised notes on Aconitum germination around Christmas time every year; it only depends if new species will be available for trial-outs! My thanks to those making this study possible. Read HERE the starting notes on Aconitum germination.

Again, Aconitum comprises many species which are (in general) difficulty to germinate if the seeds were stored dry, some even after short periods of dry storing. But some species are more recalcitrant than others, and that’s what this study tries to looks at, including the effect of GA3 on improving the germination.

These are the main germination tables revised, Dec. 2019

The conclusion from last winter sowings is that Aconitum moldavicum and Aconitum hemsleyanum are difficult to germinate species even after a relatively short period of storing the seeds dry. It remains to be seen if some of the seeds will germinate in the second spring after sowing.

Aconitum kusnezoffii seedlings

Aconitum krylowii seedlings

Aconitum kirinense seedlings (2)

Aconitum kusnezoffii seedlings (2)

From the recently sown species there are moist packed seeds to share of Aconitum japonicum

Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix – seeds are starting to germinate! Together with the Aconitum they can be ordered via – Fast shipping option.

Shipping will resume after Dec. 26

Merry Christmas to all!

Kernera and a trick for sowing fine seeds

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Few species with small size seeds

Talking alpines species which usually have fine seeds, I will show a trick for sowing.
As everyone knows, fine seeds require light for germination and they need to be covered lightly; perlite is a good material choice, easy to find at almost any garden centre. Another good option it is to use vermiculite.
But not only I cover the seeds with perlite or vermiculite, I also lay a fine perlite layer on top of the sowing mix and water it lightly before spreading the seeds; this way the seeds will stick to the perlite and not get drawn deep into the mix ;) You can also use vermiculite in the same way.
I would say this is very important for warm germinators. For cold germinators, which will receive their cold/moist stratification outdoors, the light requirement is often replaced by the cold treatment, so you can use regular sowing mix for covering.

Saxifraga corymbosa seeds sowing

Light sensitive seeds sowing

Especially when placed outdoors for cold/moist stratification it is good to enclose the pots in a plastic bag/Ziploc/or plastic boxes. The small seeds are easily displaced because of the superficial mix covering and starting spring with the raise in temperatures, they can also dry out very fast; even a short period of dryness can be fatal if it happens at the exact moment of the germination start.

About Kernera saxatilis, or to use the common French name which is very suggestive: Kernéra des rochers.

This lovely rock garden species offered in the seeds-gift is hailing from mountain ranges of Southern and Central Europe. Generally it is overlooked by many and I feel I should promote it more.

You can find a nook for this delicate species in any rockery, big or small, trough, containers or any other planting holders. The small white flowers will appear on an elongated flower stems in the spring, and will be followed by ornamental beads-like fruits.

Kernera saxatilis flowers

Kernera saxatilis garden

Kernera saxatilis fruits

Kernera saxatilis seeds

It gets even better because the leaves rosettes remain evergreen, a most desirable trait in any cold climate – pictured here in November 30th.

Kernera saxatilis leaves rosettes end of November; these are still young plants which will increase in size over the years.

Did I mention that this is a very easy to germinate and grow plant?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pink

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Frilly pink with the long gone fragrance of June summer days – sounds about right for Wednesday.
Have a great one everyone!

 

 

Colors for a white week: Acinos

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It seems that we will have a white week. But it is so easy to make it flower-colorful!
Since Acinos alpinus seeds were packed for few last orders I thought “A” + purple would be perfect for Monday; plus, we can feel the high altitude summer sun!

Acinos alpinus (syn. Calamintha alpina) – an easy to grow species in a rock garden, edge of a flower border; sun and good drainage.

Acinos alpinus – go wild and combine it with any other color!

 

 

Surprise, surprise! Roscoea schneideriana

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Plus, growing Roscoea from seeds

October ended with a nice surprise. Roscoea schneideriana has flowered beautifully this year and in all honesty I didn’t expect any seeds; it was enough to see it thriving in the garden. Then, one day I noticed that one capsule had burst open and the seeds spilled on the ground.

Roscoea schneideriana with split capsule and seeds in late October

It is always very rewarding when a plant started from seeds reaches the point of flowering well and produces seeds! And Roscoea schneideriana is a special one, with characters a bit unique in its genus (to mention just the leaves arrangement, the length of the staminodes and the round anther appendages). It grows wild in Western China (Sichuan and Yunnan), in mixed forests, open limestone slopes, among rocks and ledges of mountains between 2600-3350 m alt. (from The Genus Roscoea, Jill Cowley).

Roscoea schneideriana flowering in early September; notice the round anther appendages, a good ID character for this species

I know that most people in our climate avoid growing hardy gingers, but in fact they are not difficult to start from seeds and many species are cold hardy.

Most species are warm germinators, or will germinate after a short period of cold/moist stratification (1 month). So, you can sow and start them under lights indoors in February/March, or directly outdoors in April/May (depending on the region).

In the first year after sowing, the seedlings will grow only for a few months and then become dormant! For this reason, try to grow them well watering and applying a light fertilizer once in a while. Do not prick out the seedlings! If necessary you will transplant them in a larger pot after they become dormant.

When the leaves start yellowing, reduce the watering and try to not overwater the pots when they are complet dormant; only keep them slightly moist.
The seedlings should be grown in the same pot (the sowing pot) for 2(3) years at least until the little tubers can be handled more easily. 

As noticed, the seedlings form fleshy, elongated tubers (various forms depending on the species). They need a bit of extra attention for a couple of years (in most cases I overwinter them in pots in the garage). Again, transplanting of the tubers in bigger pots should be done only when dormant, in very late fall or better in early summer (Roscoea always they start growing very late in the season).
After approx. 3 years you can plant them in the garden (in a part-shaded, well drained location – this is very important) and you’re done!

Roscoea schneideriana seeds (2)

Roscoea scheideriana seedlings

Roscoea schneideriana tuber

Roscoea tibetica young tubers

Growing from seeds you always get to play with a few seedlings not just one plant. The advantage is that we can experiment with planting young plants in various locations in the hope to finding the best one.

Roscoea are much easier to establish in the garden when planting young (3 years old) tubers in the summer just before they start growing. During the season the tubers can lower themselves to the soil depth of their liking (which can be quite low) and thus survive better our harsh winters.

One more thing: don’t wait for them to emerge at spring time. They sit underground chit chatting with various Arisaemas and both forget it is time to show up. And then they all do it in a big hurry in mid-summer!

You can also read about R. auriculata below (Earth octopus). 

Not one garden without an Arisaema

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If for some reason there is someone who doesn’t have at least one Arisaema in the garden, then there is Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense to consider.

Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense is my longest lived Arisaema in the ground, and I’m in love with it. I was a bit in doubt if liubaense until I had to move it and sow the stoloniferous tubers (one difference from A. ciliatum).

It shows up late, somewhere in mid-June and then, in a blink of an eye, purple flowers will peak curiously at you from underneath the umbrella-like leaf. Commonly they are called Cobra lilies but don’t be afraid they are super friendly.

Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense 2019

A nice surprise this year, they showed up in pair and now we have babies :)
It is amazing how fast the fruit matured from green to red in about one week.

Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense fruit

Also to consider: Arisaema amurense, A. flavum and our lovely NA A. triphyllum. All super cold hardy and easy to grow.