About Ephedra and cutting seeds

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I don’t always get the chance to talk more about various species offered in the seeds shop which are not that well known/cultivated for ornamental purpose. This opportunity came unexpectedly for Ephedra distachya.

Ephedra species, commonly known as Mormon tea, joint-fir (and few others) are better known for their medicinal properties.
But not many are aware that Ephedra species are Gymnosperms, a singular genus in Fam. Ephedraceae, which in its turn is the sole Fam. in the Order Ephedrales.

Almost all species are dioecious and growing in dry, rocky/sandy habitats. Considering their evergreen aspect and colorful cones, they also make for interesting garden plants, a quality which should be exploited more.
It is extremely rare to see Ephedra in someone’s garden in our northern temperate climate. And yet, there are hardy species; we just need to be more open to growing new species.

Ephedra distachya is a low-growing shrub from Southern and Central Europe to Central Asia, which prefers rocky places in full sun location. The seeds were collected in 2017 from the Dobrogea region, close to the Black Sea in Romania.

Ephedra distachya, sea grape – female plant with ripe cones

Because not too much info regarding the seeds/germination/viability was available, I recently took it out of the inventory in order to test the seeds. I do this regularly with seeds in their 2-3+ year of storage, but with Ephedra I had one more reason for testing: the seeds I sowed in early fall 2017 soon after collecting, did not germinate by fall 2018.

An easy and fast way to assess the seeds is the ‘cut method’:  slice transversally through the seeds and visually (magnifying glass) inspect the ‘insides’, which should be whitish/yellowish in color. This will show that the seeds are not empty (which happens sometimes) and the endosperm/embryo are viable (unless using a microscope is hard to say most of the time if you’ve cut through the endosperm or the embryo).
After this first phase, one can follow with further germination tests, if desired/necessary.
In the case of seeds with a very hard seed coat or slippery, it is easier to cut the soaked seeds. I will elaborate about this method some other time.

Long story short – the seeds soaking started on Jan.3; water was changed daily. Yesterday (Jan. 7) this was the situation: after 5 days of soaking at room temperature, the seeds are starting to germinate! No need for cutting, proceed to sowing :)

Ephedra distachya seeds starting to germinate (radicles emerging)

 So, why these seeds have not germinated in the pot?
One explanation would be that I missed the watering of the little pot at some point, which is possible.
It is very easy to leave the pots too dry during the critical point when the germination starts when you don’t actually see the above ground signs of the seedlings.
It wouldn’t be the first time when I missed to properly water pots with seedlings. A good reminder to keep a better eye on the sowings!

Now, who wants to grow something different for their garden?
Ephedra distachya seeds are back in stock and other rarely cultivated species suitable to grow in similar location are still available (like Hedysarum grandiflorum, Astragalus vesicarius,…).

First Fridays Seeds 2019

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Best wishes to all readers for successful plant growing and beautiful gardens in 2019!

For today, a germinating seed of Paeonia wendelboi – a bridge between the past year and the present one.

Paeonia wendelboi germinating seed (at warm); the root appeared in winter 2018 (it was very tiny but nothing escapes my magnifying glass, or so I like to think). The shoot will start to grow only after a cold period, the way it goes with most peonies.

And a message, seeds speaking generally:

Do not forget  that this is the perfect time for sowing species which require cold/moist stratification!
If done too late, especially in the case of a mild winter, the cold period won’t suffice and the seeds will need one more cold cycle to germinate.

I would like to draw your attention especially to a few moist packed seeds.
Beside the fact that for a very good price you can get seeds which will most likely germinate, by comparison with sowing them dry, some, like Aconitum spp. , may be an one time offer. Others, like Thalictrum thalictroides, which require more driving to the collection site, will be offered only on alternate years.

Even with the garden collected seeds, it can happen to miss the seeds of species like Saruma henryi.
Thus, it is always best to get these kind of seeds when available.

You can easily find them all by browsing the Moist packed Seeds and Corydalis Seeds categories.

Belated Fridays Seeds: Paeonia brownii

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I forgot about the Fridays Seeds :o
In my defense, I was trying to finish the first batch of winter sowings, before other/new seeds arrive. Being end of the month I also had to check all the remaining moist packed seeds, kept at cold or warm.

A leisurely Saturday is a good occasion to show the seeds of Paeonia brownii.
I didn’t show them before because all seeds that arrived were presold and none of them made it to the online shop inventory. With more requests left unsatisfied I didn’t want to aggravate the situation.

Paeonia brownii is one of the only two North American peony species and it has different seeds than the ones we are more used seeing. I would call it the Cinderella of the peonies (seeds wise) because they are nothing but attractive, especially when dry: brownish and large with an irregular shape.

In the rush of the moment I even missed to take pictures of the dry seeds; the ones shown here are already in moist packing since late October (kept at warm).

Paeonia brownii seeds: kept in moist storage since late October. Moist seeds should not be left to dry out at any moment, hence only a quick picture with the seeds on moist towel ;)

Those interested can read more and see pictures of this intriguing peony species HERE.

Sowing seeds = Exercising hope

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Like all respectable seeds/plant addict I already started sowing and will continue to do so well into the New Year.

Same like weeding, I feel sowing seeds will easily get you into meditation mood; quietly filling pots and laying out the little ‘beads’ on top, covering, watering; automated like motions….
A large part of the seeds will germinate but only some of the seedlings will get to ‘adulthood’ and even fewer will get to be planted in the garden. This is good. Otherwise, we won’t be able to continue the ‘exercise’.

Full tray with sowings almost ready to go outside: Aconitum spp., Penstemons, Zizia, Leptarrhena, Romanzoffia…to mention just a few

That’s what I came to believe this is all about: the hopeful expectation of seeing the tiny, green sprouts showing up one day; managing to grow the actual plants is secondary. If it happens, fine, but even if does not, we will gladly continue, year after year to repeat the process. It is like exercising hope.

By exercising, one always gets better. See what I’m getting at? :) Keep exercising hope!

Seeds of Aconitum moldavicum and Aconitum cf. kusnezoffii are available now for those interested: moist packed after a short period of dry keeping. To maximize the chances of germination this coming spring you can also treat them with GA3.

 

Friday’s Seeds – Callirhoe and the mericarps

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I always strive to make sure the quality of seeds at BotanyCa is top notch. When a few seeds remain available for a given species, it becomes even more an important issue. Such was the case for Callirhoe digitata (Fam. Malvaceae) yesterday.

What we usually call seeds are actually mericarps, parts of a dry fruit called schizocarp; they contain 1 seed each. However, some mericarps can be empty or contain a malformed seed; not too many were left, so a closer look was necessary.

I would like to emphasize that for the purpose of sowing it’s not necessary to extract the seeds from the mericarps.
Reason I did this: to make sure how many good seeds are still available and, to take & show pictures with the actual seeds.

Callirhoe digitata (Fringed poppy mallow, standing wine cup) – mericarps and seeds

Another similar species, seeds wise, is Iliamna rivularis – Streambank wild hollyhock.
In this case each mericarp contains 2-3(4) seeds, shown below.

Iliamna rivularis seeds

Iliamna rivularis flowers

 

The return to Bukiniczia

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With the help of a new magnifier lamp (a super dark November had something to do with this), I went slowly through all the Bukiniczia calyces (which are usually called ‘seeds’: read Next please – Bukiniczia cabulica).
I did not count precisely but I can tell that +/-20% of them presented seeds. This percentage may of course be different for other clones.

You can find the seeds in the shop now – Bukiniczia cabulica
2 pck/order are allowed; this way those who don’t desire other seeds can order using the low shipping rates.

This is how Bukiniczia SEEDS look like:

Bukiniczia cabulica seeds

*A reminder that products in The Seeds List can display out of stock temporarily until the inventory is replenished.

**When you receive whole calyces as ‘seeds’ for Bukiniczia, Armeria, Limonium, Acantholimon (and possibly others from Plumbaginaceae), check to see if there are actually any seeds before sowing.

Gift cards

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It is cold and, thanks to Canada Post union, slow going, so I use the occasion to announce the newly posted Gift Cards category – up and running on the shop.

In short: they can be used any time, sent to the purchaser or to the gift recipient or as a pdf file to be downloaded.
The only condition is that the whole value has to be redeemed in one purchase.

Click on the card to read the whole info

Stay tuned for the Friday’s seeds; we will play a ‘seeds game’ to keep us entertained.
The winner’s prize – a 25$ Gift card!

Maybe a consolation prize too; I’m not done yet with the logistics…

 

No magic trick – Paris quadrifolia

This is a very busy time so I will say it straight – there is no magic trick like I believed three years ago (see: The magic trick).
It happens every year with Paris quadrifolia: seeds coll. in August and kept moist will always start to germinate at once, root only, end of Oct. – beginning of November. Leaves will follow in early spring after the winter cold. Don’t let others trick you otherwise.

Paris quadrifolia germinated seeds

It is easy to grow; keep it in the same pot for two years in a shaded place then plant in the garden. It combines beautifully with Polygonatum, Trillium species, Primulas, Corydalis…

Paris quadrifolia seedlings

Paris quadrifolia 2 years old seedlings

Paris quadrifolia – May

Paris quadrifolia

One more note on other moist packed seeds, germination wise: no magic tricks as well, all are on time:
Asarum canadense – germinated (roots)
Trillium grandiflorum – partly germinated seeds, as usual.
Corydalis ophiocarpa – starting to germinate.

Friday’s Seeds – Fernleaf peony

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A late but timely arrival of the fernleaf peony seeds – Paeonia tenuifolia. It is a most beautiful peony for dry, sunny areas, I don’t really think is necessary to praise more its qualities; fairly expensive to buy even as a small plant.

As an exception to the regular germination pattern of other peonies (delayed hypogeal, warm-cold); Paeonia tenuifolia germinates after cold/moist stratification, i.e. sowing in late fall/early winter; in the spring, roots and shoots appear at the same time. Isn’t that nice?

Paeonia tenuifolia, Fernleaf peony: spring buds, flower, 2 years-old plant and seeds

Another note: very young seedling leaves don’t usually show the same fine foliage of a mature plant (and the foliage can be ‘ferny’ in various degrees depending on the source).

Growing it from seeds is so easy and plus, you will have a few seedlings to play around with! Got a few too many myself but this is a desirable plant and easy to share ;)

 

A ‘weedy’ Roscoea?!!

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Yes, that’s how I labeled the Roscoea species from these photo for a while.

Roscoea cf. scillifolia purple; photo taken last week (Oct. 17, 2018)

It was grown from seeds which came labeled as ‘R. tibetica narrow leaves’ (seedex).
Given the arrangement of leaves it become clear it was not R. tibetica even before flowering.The flowers resemble on a superficial look but then the way the capsules are formed also differ. So, it got the label Roscoea ‘non-tibetica’.

It proved to be the fastest growing Roscoea I’ve seen and flowered in the second year; also producing seeds. It was a bit hard to believe and the label was changed from Roscoea ‘non-tibetica’ to Roscoea ‘weedy’ :-)

I planted it in the garden two years ago curious to see if it will survive. Not only it did but as seen in the picture it thrives. Last year I didn’t collect any seeds and new seedlings are now added to the initial little clump.

All floral parts were photographed and measured; using the Roscoea Monograph of Jill Cowley it was found to fit into the highly variable Roscoea scillifolia species. Until someone does more work in Roscoea taxonomy, seeds will be offered as such in the shop; cf. because there is not enough data to be 100% sure, purple – to differentiate it from the usual pink and dark- flowered forms of R. scillifolia in culture.

And because it is Friday, here are the seeds:

Roscoea cf. scillifolia purple seeds: “elliptic to triangular, shallowly lacerate”

 

Why not give a try to this ‘weedy’ Roscoea?
Admittedly it is not one of the showiest of the species, but it is hardy, easy to grow and it flowers fast. Plus, let’s not forget that “propagation means conservation” (Prof. Norman Deno)


*R. scillifolia sensu latu, it is supposed to be extinct in the wild at the present.

**Although usually considered more fancy plants, Roscoea species are not hard to germinate and grow, but it takes few years to have them flowering. Also, it is difficult to keep them alive for many years in open ground (the fleshy roots are prone to rot in wet/cold conditions).

 

 

 

Next please – Bukiniczia cabulica

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Yesterday I had the very good intention to sort out the Bukiniczia cabulica seeds.
It proved out to be not that simple. Just like in the case of various Armeria species (same Plumbaginaceae family), many of the calyces are empty making it very time consuming to go through a large quantity of ‘fruits’.

I said – next please, there are other species waiting in line at this time. Bukiniczia will have to wait; after all it is a warm germinator. But for those interested to know: there will be seeds :)

Bukiniczia cabulica, cute biennial for the rockery; easy to grow from seeds

Moving on to Lilium philadelphicum…

Fridays seed – Acanthus hungaricus and the retinaculum

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I thought it would be interesting to present the fruit and seed of Acanthus hungaricus this Friday; after all, what’s the fun of going through a bunch of spiny, dry flowering stems without sharing? ;)

Acanthus hungaricus; mature specimen, flowering stem with capsule, seeds and the retinaculum.

The fruit of Acanthus (bear’s breeches) is a two parted capsule with an explosive opening.
The seeds inside the capsule are attached to a stalk called funicular retinacula (retinaculum or jaculator) which helps to propel them outside the capsule. This is, of course, an adaptation for seed dispersal. See the plate below.
In our climate it seems the mechanism doesn’t work to well, or it may happen in very late fall, in any case there are usually very few good seeds formed (I emphasize ‘good’).

The thing is Acanthus may lack its principal pollinator in our region; on the flowering stems I worked with, most of the capsules were empty; just few of them were bearing one seed.
It is very probable that the capsule needs to be full with seeds in order to build enough pressure inside and stimulate the retinaculum to eject them outside (just my theory…).

A mature,  flowering bear’s breeches is absolutely spectacular, like seen in the picture (alas, not in my garden). It takes a few years but I would say it’s worth the wait. Even in the happy event that you will find it at a garden center it will also be a young one.

Here’s one seedling that was planted in the ground last week; I sown 4 leftover seeds in February of this year and now I have 4 seedlings (some bigger than the others).

Acanthus hungaricus seedling; I recommend to use tall pots because they start to form robust roots at a young age.