A ‘weedy’ Roscoea?!!

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Yes, that’s how I labeled the Roscoea species from these photo for a while.

Roscoea cf. scillifolia purple; photo taken last week (Oct. 17, 2018)

It was grown from seeds which came labeled as ‘R. tibetica narrow leaves’ (seedex).
Given the arrangement of leaves it become clear it was not R. tibetica even before flowering.The flowers resemble on a superficial look but then the way the capsules are formed also differ. So, it got the label Roscoea ‘non-tibetica’.

It proved to be the fastest growing Roscoea I’ve seen and flowered in the second year; also producing seeds. It was a bit hard to believe and the label was changed from Roscoea ‘non-tibetica’ to Roscoea ‘weedy’ :-)

I planted it in the garden two years ago curious to see if it will survive. Not only it did but as seen in the picture it thrives. Last year I didn’t collect any seeds and new seedlings are now added to the initial little clump.

All floral parts were photographed and measured; using the Roscoea Monograph of Jill Cowley it was found to fit into the highly variable Roscoea scillifolia species. Until someone does more work in Roscoea taxonomy, seeds will be offered as such in the shop; cf. because there is not enough data to be 100% sure, purple – to differentiate it from the usual pink and dark- flowered forms of R. scillifolia in culture.

And because it is Friday, here are the seeds:

Roscoea cf. scillifolia purple seeds: “elliptic to triangular, shallowly lacerate”

 

Why not give a try to this ‘weedy’ Roscoea?
Admittedly it is not one of the showiest of the species, but it is hardy, easy to grow and it flowers fast. Plus, let’s not forget that “propagation means conservation” (Prof. Norman Deno)


*R. scillifolia sensu latu, it is supposed to be extinct in the wild at the present.

**Although usually considered more fancy plants, Roscoea species are not hard to germinate and grow, but it takes few years to have them flowering. Also, it is difficult to keep them alive for many years in open ground (the fleshy roots are prone to rot in wet/cold conditions).

 

 

 

Next please – Bukiniczia cabulica

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Yesterday I had the very good intention to sort out the Bukiniczia cabulica seeds.
It proved out to be not that simple. Just like in the case of various Armeria species (same Plumbaginaceae family), many of the calyces are empty making it very time consuming to go through a large quantity of ‘fruits’.

I said – next please, there are other species waiting in line at this time. Bukiniczia will have to wait; after all it is a warm germinator. But for those interested to know: there will be seeds :)

Bukiniczia cabulica, cute biennial for the rockery; easy to grow from seeds

Moving on to Lilium philadelphicum…

Fridays seed – Acanthus hungaricus and the retinaculum

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I thought it would be interesting to present the fruit and seed of Acanthus hungaricus this Friday; after all, what’s the fun of going through a bunch of spiny, dry flowering stems without sharing? ;)

Acanthus hungaricus; mature specimen, flowering stem with capsule, seeds and the retinaculum.

The fruit of Acanthus (bear’s breeches) is a two parted capsule with an explosive opening.
The seeds inside the capsule are attached to a stalk called funicular retinacula (retinaculum or jaculator) which helps to propel them outside the capsule. This is, of course, an adaptation for seed dispersal. See the plate below.
In our climate it seems the mechanism doesn’t work to well, or it may happen in very late fall, in any case there are usually very few good seeds formed (I emphasize ‘good’).

The thing is Acanthus may lack its principal pollinator in our region; on the flowering stems I worked with, most of the capsules were empty; just few of them were bearing one seed.
It is very probable that the capsule needs to be full with seeds in order to build enough pressure inside and stimulate the retinaculum to eject them outside (just my theory…).

A mature,  flowering bear’s breeches is absolutely spectacular, like seen in the picture (alas, not in my garden). It takes a few years but I would say it’s worth the wait. Even in the happy event that you will find it at a garden center it will also be a young one.

Here’s one seedling that was planted in the ground last week; I sown 4 leftover seeds in February of this year and now I have 4 seedlings (some bigger than the others).

Acanthus hungaricus seedling; I recommend to use tall pots because they start to form robust roots at a young age.

 

 

Out in the glowing woods

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Last weekend it was the perfect time for an outing in the woods; they are basking in the golden glow of the sugar maples these days (Acer saccharum).
Other trees foliage also contribute to a beautiful autumnal display: Fraxinus, Fagus, Carya, Juglans, Amelanchier, Prunus, while on the ground floor Thalictrum dioicum, Smilax, and Aralia nudicaulis foliage reflect the same golden colour.

Acer saccharum – Sugar maple, rock maple

Here and there, attractive ‘candies’ of various species can still be enjoyed:  Viburnum acerifolium,  Maianthemum species, Euonymus obovatus and Smilax herbacea. Others, like those of Amphicarpaea bracteata are not that visible, and you need a sharp eye to find them.

It is also a good time to reflect at the natural associations of these woodland species; we can easily reproduced them in the garden. Amphicarpaea flowering stems were threading over Euonymus obovatus (featured image), Hepatica americana and a nearby Smilax; notice the beautiful clump of Hepatica americana surrounded by the dry foliage of Uvularia grandiflora and the Maianthemum berries shining through Thalictrum dioicum foliage.

Maianthemum racemosum fruits

Smilax herbacea

Viburnum acerifolium fall

Hepatica americana and Uvularia

Some of these ‘candies’ are already in the shop.
New ones were just added:
Amphicarpaea bracteata
Zizia aurea
Lobelia siphilitica
Lilium michiganense

For the moist packed category in quite small quantities this year: Maianthemum canadense, M. racemosum, M. stellatum and Polygonatum pubescens.

*Native species wise, there will be more seeds to come; the collection goes on until the end of the month. Most species are listed on the Seeds List and will be posted after the seeds are collected and sorted out.

 

WTA!

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What the Arisaema! :-)

A couple of years ago I stumbled upon an Arisaema triphyllum population with huge leaves; among them, even a specimen with 3 leaves and two fruits.

Arisaema triphyllum – large form; the seeds are in the shop.

I didn’t carry a measuring tape but the length of the leaflets was much more than 1 ft. (30 cm). I also don’t know the colour of the spathe, anyway I failed to collect the fruits that time.

WTA!

I’ve seen other Arisaema triphyllum with leaves this large but the majority of seeds I collect are from more ‘normal’ (smaller) plants. So, I returned this fall and collected some of the fruits already lying on the woodland floor.

Arisaema triphyllum plants are cross pollinated, so it’s only a matter of luck to obtain an interesting form when growing from seeds.

There is great potential here!

 

A note regarding the germination: all A. triphyllum seeds collections from our region proved to be warm germinators; even older seeds. It will be interesting to see about these ones.

Link for the shop

Saturday morning Calochortus

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During a short trip to SE BC this summer I have had the chance to admire my first ever mariposa lily – Calochortus apiculatus, Baker’s mariposa lily – shown here in the featured image. Of course, I’ve seen many pictures of various species, but it’s never the same like experiencing them in the wild.

Next minute, a little voice was screaming in my head – I want to grow a mariposa! Not all Calochortus species are actually named mariposa lilies, but that’s how I call them.
I indulged, and together with a few other Western North American species I brought in, for my little voice and for the shop, 2 Calochortus species.

Not having pictures with the flowers I will introduce them through their seeds.
Calochorthus leichtlinii – the Smokey mariposa, which is found growing at high elevations in Oregon, California and Nevada, would be the one to try in zone 6. It has white to pale blue flowers with yellow/black centers.
With good luck and stellar drainage it may do well. The seeds were collected on Eisenheimer Ridge, Plumas Co. at 2135 m alt.

Calochortus leichtlinii seeds

The very cute Calochortus tolmiei (Tolmie star-tulip, pussy ears) would be best left for those living in a warmer climate, or grown in a pot in the alpine house. The flowers are light purple/lavender and are very hairy – you could grow it as a pet :)
I will test  the germination and who knows, maybe even end up with few plants to grow in a container.

Calochortus tolmiei seeds

For lots of mesmerizing pictures (wild, culture) and growing advice for various Calochortus species, please visit the PBS page: https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Calochortus

Find the seeds on the Seeds list.

Back to the routine

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Friday’s seeds

It is time to get back to the routine :) We’ll start slowly with a known species – Glaucidium palmatum, Fam. Ranunculaceae (well, there were debates, but it is still there).

The first fruits are ready, more to come, so just a short stop to admire how neatly the seeds are arranged in the follicle. Two carpels with multiple ovules for Glaucidium – and we get two follicles and many seeds inside.

Let’s count the seeds in this one follicle: you don’t say, precisely enough for 1 pck.!

Glaucidium palmatum fruit and seeds

Shop for Glaucidium seeds

The bundle flower – Desmanthus illinoensis

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How about a perennial species with mimosa-like foliage for a cold region (zone 5)?
I bet everyone will ask you what’s that species in your garden bed and would want to touch the foliage.

Illinois Bundle flower (or prairie mimosa) is the one.

Desmanthus illinoensis, Illinois bundle flower, prairie mimosa

Unlike the real mimosa plant, the prairie mimosa leaflets will not fold inward when touched, they do it only in the evening and during very hot periods to retain the moisture.
White, globular flowers appear in June/July followed by clusters of pods, which have a beautiful flowery look early on.

Desmanthus illinoensis cluster of pods

It is definitely an interesting plant to mix in a flower bed not to mention that like all Fabaceae it is a nitrogen fixing plant and will naturally enrich the garden soil.

For those interested in the ethnobotanical aspects,  the root bark has been found to contain various substances similar to those used in mix preparation of hallucinogenic drinks (like other species from the mimosa family).

I’ll say let’s keep it for the garden ;)

Link to the shop

Candy – for the eyes and soul, peony seeds

Without further ado, the peonies seeds are here! I tried my best to place them fast in the inventory; sown right away they may start to germinate this coming spring (warm/cold cycle required). Please see the Seeds list for all available species in stock, and from there access each species.

This year we have to give thanks again to the seeds donors, which give all others the possibility to grow these wonderful species of peonies which would be otherwise difficult to obtain (at least for some of us). Despite a very dry summer, there are more P. japonica and P. mlokosewitschii seeds, and so the nr. seeds/pck. has been increased with no quantity limitation.
There is nothing difficult in growing peonies from seeds :)

Paeonia japonica emerging in the spring

Paeonia japonica seedlings late August

 

Single delights – Moneses uniflora

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“Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better.”
Some may argue that this famous Samuel Beckett’s quote is not an inspiration for trying and grow very difficult species, but I differ. With every failure we will, at least, learn something a bit more about them.

This long overdue post is about mycorrhizal species, included in the Orchids & other mycorrhizals shop category and especially about Moneses uniflora – the single delight. It always keeps one to want more ;)

Some people are more adventurous than others when it comes to growing from seeds – this is the reason I collect and offer, when possible, a few almost impossible to germinate/grow species. The cost of seeds is really insignificant; it’s all about the quest and desire to go beyond what’s easy.
In other words, for those loving to grow plants from seeds – it’s also fun!

Moneses uniflora is a little, evergreen species growing in shady, cool places, and not often encountered. Managing to grow it in the garden, it would be nothing short of a miracle but nothing is impossible.
Like all species from the above mentioned category, it requires a specific mycorrhizal fungus at least for germination and maybe even later for growth.

This one single delight was spotted growing on top of decaying, exposed roots covered in moss in the Lizard Mts., BC. In my opinion, this may offer a hint about the way one could go about when trying to germinate it.

Moneses uniflora, single delight (red arrow pointing)

This is my advice for sowing Moneses uniflora (Pyrola and Chimaphila as well):

Collect a piece of decomposed wood together with some moss from the woods; place them in the garden, half buried in the ground to stay moist in a shady location; sprinkle the very fine seeds on top and water well to washed them in the moss. Keep the spot moist at all the time and….fingers crossed.

Few years ago I tried sowing in the same way Pyrola elliptica (same category) with the decomposed wood/moss placed in a pot. I noticed tiny, green sprouts in late spring but then it slipped my attention and got dry at some point, so I cannot draw a real conclusion; must repeat it in the ground in a good shaded place where I water regularly (under a Chinese Epimedium, for example).

Try again :)

Delphinium tatsienense vs. D. grandiflorum

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It seems we are naturally ‘inclined’ to want plants that bear names with an exotic resonance.
For example, D. tatsienense may ‘sound’ better than D. grandiflorum; not that the name should be the criterion when choosing what plants to grow.

Few years ago I bought seeds of D. tatsienense, I grew it, boasted about it, collected its seed, until doubts started to creep in about its identity.
I stopped offering seeds but kept some; I grew more seedlings with the precise purpose to have a closer look at it.

The differences between the two species are somewhat minute considering Flora of China (which always gives me the blues when I have to rely on it). Nevertheless, after looking closely and taking meticulous measurements I am pretty sure this is D. grandiflorum; and probably 90% or more, of what goes around in the trades (seeds and plants) as D. tatsienense is actually D. grandiflorum.

The Papilio butterfly, which was busy feeding when I was doing measurements on the cut flowers, gave me the sort of look – “does it really matter?”….Well, it matters for us.

Delphinium grandiflorum and Papilio polyxenes

All that’s needed for ID, if you have plants of either of them, are a strong hand lens & small measuring tape. Flora of China see here – link to Delphinium.
Disclaimer: following the link to the Delphinium keys might give you the blues.
Better grow some plants when the seeds are ready, regardless of the name!

 

We got the moist packed seeds – now what?

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Some have decided to buy moist packed seeds, and not only– many thanks to all!

I know that sowing in late fall/winter comes naturally for many people, but how about the summer/early fall sowing of moist packed seeds?
So, I will outline a few good practices; better to be safe than sorry :)

The received moist packed seeds need to be sown ASAP; keeping them for a couple of days at room temp after arriving is OK. The natural condition they are in right now is ‘warm’ cycle –  do NOT place them in the fridge!

Many of the early summer seeds/fruits collections have a ‘green’ appearance or elaiosomes. After a few weeks the seed coats mature turning brown-blackish and the elaiosomes dry out/shrivel.
So, yes, the seeds I packed yesterday, shown in the featured image, look OK; there is nothing wrong with them.

Being kept slightly moist, these seeds are more delicate (i.e., the seeds coats can be soft) so handle them gently; do not rub between fingers. Prepare a pot(s) with your usual sowing mix (mine is a mix made from Promix with a bit of 3 in one 1 or black soil added) and spread the whole content of the pack on the mix; there is no need to remove the vermiculite.
Cover with one more thin layer of the same mix, and if available top up with grit/vermiculite/small gravel – highly recommended for the summer sowings. Water thoroughly (meaning watering a few times or place the pot(s) in a shallow tray with water).

What to do with the pots? They only need to be watered at intervals, and you don’t want them in the way the whole summer; some may even germinate in the second spring from sowing (Hepatica, Sanguinaria).
Of course that everything here also applies for sowing dry seeds.

I know that not everyone has a dedicated area for sowings/seedlings, so here are few solutions:
1-5 species/pots
Include the pots in a plastic bag/large Ziploc for easy handling, to keep the moisture level even and avoid weeds. Not my favorite method, although I used it in the past for fall sowings. A SHADED position is a must! Don’t forget to open the bags to check moisture once in a while; moss may become a problem. Recently I keep all summer sowing pots in plastic boxes (in a shaded position) and it works better.

An easy method is to include few pots in a plastic bag and keep it in a shaded location (just an example, I don’t use it anymore)

My favourite is the ‘space saving method’ – bury the pots/or even larger containers in the ground (cover them with a mesh). I detailed this in the  Growing Jeffersonia from seeds post – please read more HERE.

A small, rectangle container (plastic or degradable) can be used for ‘community’ sowing, shown here already with grown seedlings (Maianthemum, Trillium… they were planted in the ground already).

You can go even further and place individual pots in a larger container (soil was added on the bottom of the container so the humidity level remains uniform); put your imagination to work!

Hepatica young seedlings, individual pots/large container – you can also use this method for sowing

A full tray of pots or more
You probably have a frame in this case :) but if not, choose one area somewhere in the shade (can be between other plants garden) where you can place the trays wrapped in a fine mesh.

Even better, if you have an available small spot around the backyard, make a simple wooden frame (you can also arrange flat rocks in a box-like shape) and place the pots inside with soil or sand underneath and in between; thus it is easy to cover them with a mesh and to keep the humidity constant during the summer months.
This is also good for keeping pots with summer dormant species like Corydalis, Claytonia and/or species that need more than one year to germinate.

Wood box-frame with dormant seedlings and new sowings

I realize that I forgot to mention the absolute most easiest method, which is: sowing the seeds ‘in situ’. It works wonderful for larger seeds like Caulophyllum, Uvularia but also feasible for Asarum, Sanguinaria and other species. Sow the seeds in the same location where you would plant them, water very well and cover with a mesh to deter the critters from digging them out. You have to pay particular attention to the sowing spot and water the seedlings during the first 1-2 seasons!

To end this long but hopefully useful post, keep in mind that the moist stored seeds are very fragile and, like all the other seeds, they are alive! Letting the pots dry out for an extended period during summer would surely result in no-germination next spring.

“When you think about it, seeds are improbable things. They don’t really seem alive, but of course they are, in a hidden kind of way….” – W. Cullina.