Cold announcements

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Ontario went from summer-like fall weather to winter in a blink of an eye!

First, the shipping of the moist packed seeds has been cancelled as of today!
With apologies to the few people who had them included in the recent orders; there is no point to ship non-viable seeds.

Second, are your seedlings prepared for the winter? We cannot leave our ‘precious’ unprotected. Besides new fall sowings, there are always young seedlings still in pots.
We touched on this subject here and there, but I think it is best to do a resume; this is for people living in a cold climate, zone 6 and below.

We are talking about 1-2(3) years-old seedlings still in pots and newly sown seeds.
Those who have a proper cold frame, know what to do with them, so let’s see what other holding conditions can be improvised.

Seedlings winter protection – the easy way

The easiest, if you have just a few pots: find a place between perennials in the garden, and dug them in. Place a mesh on top to discourage the critters and a pile of leaves/or mulch on top. Water the pots well one more time before doing this!

For a larger quantity of pots, you need a larger empty area somewhere in your garden.
Water well, gather all the pots together and have various materials handy: bubble wrap, fleece, shading/frost black cloth, tarps.

As seen in the picture, some of my pots (2 years old dormant seedlings and ungerminated seeds of last year) are in plastic boxes. This already offers them a bit of protection. Seedlings of this year are wrapped in cloth. The wooden frame is not really necessary (although very easy to do); and way smaller for my needs!

Arrange everything tight together and start adding layers, finishing with the tarp.

Sowings winter protection

Seedlings in the trays covered with black cloth

Sowings and seedlings winter protection

Instead of one big pile, you can do 2: one for new sowings, one for young seedlings (these need more protection). I was in a hurry and there will be warmer periods when the big pile can be rearranged.

Ideally, it will snow on top of the pile and that would seal the deal. If not, fingers crossed….
It is not that these pots won’t freeze at all; they will, believe me (I would find them frozen in the spring even in the cold frame). But we hope to attenuate the extreme low temperatures: -3C is OK, but -10C is already a different story.

Notes: make the pile in a place where the snow gathers well (for example, under big evergreen trees there is always less snow). If possible, the area should be in the shade, so the snow won’t melt too fast during the sunny days.

You are not prepared to protect your seedlings yet?
Take them all in the garage or any other cool area until you have everything ready. Night temperatures of -9C have been announced for the end of the week, for few days in a row!

Other method I know in use: arrange all pots/flats within a pile of compost and tarp it (this is a bit dangerous if you have mice on your property though).

I’ll end with a Helleborus foetidus image; always a happy looking plant, no matter the temperature. Plus, look at those fatty flower buds just awaiting for spring!

Fairy bells

Disporum uniflorum

Disporum uniflorum, Korean Fairy Bells, had a good season despite the drought – and the seeds were just placed in the inventory!

We already had a plant portrait for this species: Korean Fairy Bells, plus a Friday’s Seeds, so there is no point for a whole new discussion. I found this Disporum to be a particularly handsome plant. As the saying goes, the beauty is in the eye of the beholder…

The same can be said for Uvularia grandiflora, our North American Fairy Bells.
Both species actually flower at the same time, usually at the beginning of May, to the delight of the early bumblebees! Easy to germinate (sown right away or moist packed seeds) and fast growing, they are great species for the spring garden and not only, the foliage remains beautiful until fall.

Disporum uniflorum, even if not as drought resistant as Uvularia grandiflora, certainly beats many other woodland plants in this regard. You cannot go wrong with adding these two yellow bells to your garden!

Talking about fairy bells, few seeds of Yellow Fairy Bells, Prosartes lanuginosa (formerly Disporum) are also available for a limited time – being particularly sensitive to moist packing, they are kept dry and should be sown asap. Available for purchase or to be given away to the first person who buys Disporum uniflorum seeds (ask for them in the note).

To celebrate the beginning of fall – all orders containing both species: Disporum uniflorum AND Uvularia grandiflora, receive a free packet with Corydalis nobilis seeds!

Disporum and Uvularia flowering in May with few companions:

Disporum uniflorum, May 2022

Uvularia grandiflora

Corydalis nobilis

Lathyrus, Primula sieboldii

Stylophorum diphyllum

Jeffersonia dubia

More seeds announcements on Friday; hint for those who want to wait to combine in one order: Gillenia, Maianthemum racemosum and M. canadense, Euonymus obovatus.

Catch them if you can II

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I finally had the pleasure a couple of days ago to collect seeds from my own Jeffersonia dubia! I knew that it is part of the ‘catch me if you can’ club, so I was prepared.

There are not too many (hopefully we will get ‘help’ from someone else with more seeds) but it is always exciting when you collect seeds from a plant that was grown from seeds. The circle is now complete :)
Our native Jeffersonia diphylla (Twinleaf) also flowered and now has a first capsule (yet to mature) – to many more next year!

Jeffersonia fruit is a green capsule which only changes to light yellow-green at maturity at which point the suture near the top opens like a lid. After opening, the capsule dries out fast and it turns downwards spreading the seeds on the ground. The seeds are equipped with elaiosomes, which you can notice that in case of Jeffersonia dubia have frilly appendages. The purpose of the elaiosomes is to attract the ants which help with the seeds dispersal.

Jeffersonia dubia opened capsule and seeds

Jeffersonia diphylla capsule

Do not expect your friends to gift you small divisions of these species because, like other species from the barberry family (Berberidaceae), they grow from a tight rhizome which is difficult to divide. Some specialty nurseries are selling them, but otherwise one has to grow them from seeds.
Luckily they are easy to germinate from fresh or moist packed seeds and not difficult to grow.

The beautiful Helleborus caucasicus is also close to ‘throwing out’ its seeds; same for Helleborus purpurascens and Stylophorum diphyllum.

Soon enough a new ‘wave’ of species from the category “best results when sown fresh” will be posted on the inventory. They will be announced. The on-going seeds collections are now posted on the front page on the Announcement corner (bottom, right corner).

Jeffersonia dubia

Helleborus caucasicus, April 2022

Helleborus caucasicus seeds

Helleborus purpurascens, April 2022

Corydalis Easter edition 2022

I cannot envisage springtime without Corydalis flowering. Usually around Easter they are in bloom or just about. The first to flower this year is Corydalis malkensis, a species with large, white-cream flowers. Corydalis paczoskii followed closely, while Corydalis solida and Caucasica caucasica are just beginning.
Until I can take more pictures, there are plenty already uploaded on the website so we can have a colorful Corydalis view for our cold Easter weekend ahead.

Corydalis marschalliana (C. cava ssp. marschalliana) and Corydalis cava are also set to flower soon, for the first time. We’ll talk about them in a next post soon and have a comparison, also in relation with C. solida. Sometimes C. solida and C. cava are mistaken, although they are easy to distinguish.

Corydalis solida

Corydalis solida red

Corydalis solida purple

Corydalis solida and Dicentra

Corydalis malkensis with Lathyrus vernus

Corydalis solida ‘Wild heart mix’

Corydalis paczoskii

Corydalis marschalliana

Corydalis bracteata

For those unfamiliar with these delightful ephemeral species please read: Growing Corydalis solida and allies from seeds. Using the Search tab you will, of course, find more writings on Corydalis. There is no point to repeat things already written.

Some call them weedy. We know better… We also know that some species, especially Corydalis solida, don’t come true to color/form when grown from seeds. No matter what seeds you sow there is a good chance to obtain a nice range of colors and even some hybrids.

To those celebrating this weekend, a Happy Easter with hope for peace, kindness and good understanding among all people!

*I cannot know if/what Corydalis seeds will be available this year. As usual, “a call for seeds” will be made in June, if any available.

Conservation through propagation

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A short note for those who purchased Hydrastis canadensis (goldenseal) seeds last year and kept them in moist storage, as advised: it is time to sow the seeds! Then, put the pot outdoors and the seeds should germinate sometime in May.
You can read about the goldenseal and why I recommended this method below:
Goldenseal: Conservation through propagation

Hydrastis canadensis seeds aspect after warm/cold moist stratification, April 8, 2022

Every time I look at goldenseal and/or its seeds, the motto: “Conservation through propagation” comes to mind.
Driving through the outskirts of any city, you will probably notice large areas ‘cleaned’ up, leveled and ready for more buildings: homes, shopping plazas….True that they are necessary ‘evils’ but we are steadily pushing away, sometimes into oblivion, various plant species, invertebrates and all others living things related one to another.

Trillium erectum growing in a small woodland corridor in a nearby neighborhood a few years ago. Vanished by now….

Some may argue that Canada is a large country with a fortunate expanse of territories. However, many species are particularly adapted and grow only in certain regions/specific habitats.

What we can do is to offer refuge in our small urban gardens to as many native species as possible; at least to those that adapt well to garden cultivation. From personal experience, it is possible to harmoniously grow native and non-native species together, without having to give up your collectable, or ‘rare’ garden treasures.

Growing them from seeds involves more work, but preferable because it sustains the genetic variability. This is very important for their long-term survival and adaptation.  If not a seeds officionado, this spring look at your garden centre for offerings of native plants. Every little bit helps.

*Bloodroot seedlings from few years ago shown in the featured image. How long until we also declare Sanguinaria, Trillium erectum (and other species) endangered?

 

How it begins

Theoretically, we know that during germination the radicle emerges at the micropylar end of the seeds; in practice, it is not that easy to figure out where that would be, especially for Aristolochia seeds which look a bit peculiar. Just few seeds of Aristolochia steupii remained in moist storage (it happens in many cases) and so we now have the answer. In some species of Aristolochia (birthworts) the seeds present an aril on the dorsal side, practically a ‘strophiole’ (see the note).

Aristolochia germinated seed

Aristolochia steupii germinated seed, dorsal side showing aril

Apart the nerdy seed stuff, I am glad to announce that ahead of the new season I managed to revamp a bit the front page. I hope the new look brings more to ‘front’ and into focus, the wealth of information that has been gathered on the website about seeds and germination and particularly about the species with hydrophilic seeds = moist packed seeds category, and how to handle them for the best outcome: https://botanicallyinclined.org/

Many North American wildflowers are included in this category and, despite the huge amount of work, we remain committed to providing good quality seeds to ensure the best possible germination. No DOD’s from BotanyCa!

Don’t forget, there is also the Search button which can be easily used to retrieve info about a particular subject. For example, writing Aristolochia in the search tab on the front page/blog will bring out 12 results (meaning Aristolochia name was used in 12 writing/products).

Despite the weather, the spring is here and more and more seeds, seedlings and plants are realizing this.
So, there will be less writing and more ‘doing’. Short announcements will be made about flowering and other spring happenings (what seeds will be available we can only know much later into the season).

*Strophiole: http://www.mobot.org/mobot/latindict/keyDetail.aspx?keyWord=strophiole

 

Aconitum and Saruma

The last two remaining species that will be available soon, as moist packed seeds, are Saruma henryi and Aconitum moldavicum.

Saruma henryi, the upright wild ginger is a nice, foliage-wise perennial species complemented by yellow flowers in early summer. It goes well with various Arisaema, Aconitums, Podophyllum, Glaucidium, Deinanthe…to mention just a few.
A tough plant, perfect in a part-shaded location; with too much shade it becomes leggy (it can be sheared). It will self-seed in a proper location, just like Stylophorum and I recommend to always keep 1-2 seedlings as a reserve.

Saruma henryi

Saruma henryi

Saruma henryi seeds

Aconitum moldavicum

Aconitum is the main subject of this post though.
Only seeds of Aconitum moldavicum A. lycoctonum ssp. moldavicum) will be available. But regular readers of the blog may remember that few years ago I embarked in a journey regarding Aconitum germination. Just few years later, I ended up with too many young plants that I could deal it!

See the link: Aconitum germination revised.

The conclusion remains: Aconitum species have very good germination when fresh or moist packed seeds are sown.
Most species will germinate to some extent from dry seeds (kept for 6-12 months), but in low percentage. Some may not germinate at all.

All this being studied and repeatedly mentioned, it is a surprise that not many people take advantage when fresh and /or moist packed seeds are offered. I consider most Aconitum species wonderful garden plants (wolf’s banes by general common name): they come in a wide variety as flowering time, growth habit, and flower color. Yes, they are toxic/also medicinal when used properly, but animals know to stay away from such plants. Only having very young children around the garden might pose a problem.

Aconitum moldavicum (syn. A. lycoctonum ssp. moldavicum) is a beautiful species native of the Carpathian Mts. with purplish, long hooded flowers on tall flowering stems. Usually found growing on siliceous substrates but it adapts well in cultivation. Habit and flowers wise it is similar with the widely cultivated A. lycoctonum. On a superficial look can also be mistaken with Aconitum vulparia (open the gallery to see pictures from the wild and also from cultivation).

Aconitum moldavicum, garden

Aconitum moldavicum, Fagaras Mts.

Aconitum vulparia maybe, cultivated

Aconitum vulparia, Carpathian Mts.

Aconitum lyctotonum, garden

Aconitum 2 years-old plants

It is always a good idea to double check your Aconitum at flowering/fruiting time, especially if grown from seeds; proper identification is not an easy task, to say the least.

Lindera and the blue cohosh

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Lindera benzoin, Northern spicebush, Forsythia of the wilds

Early in the spring (mid-April in some years) the flowering of Lindera, which grows as an understory, lightens up the deciduous woodlands. The small, abundant, bright yellow flowers are a sign of the long awaited spring and very useful to the early pollinators! The species it is also a favorite larval host for the beautiful Spicebush swallowtail and Promethea silkmoth.

Later in the fall, the foliage turns yellow providing a wonderful background for the shiny red, abundant fruits (female and male plants need to be grown together). They provide food for countless bird species.

The fleshy part of the fruits was/it is chopped and utilized as an allspice, hence the common name.
Read more about it and its fruits, seeds and germination: Here

Lindera benzoin, early spring

Lindera benzoin, fall

Lindera benzoin, one-year old seedlings

Caulophyllum thalictroides, Blue cohosh

How many times I have written about Caulophyllum? One of my favourite wildflower because of the purple shoots that emerge in early spring and the beautiful foliage: a well grown plant of Caulophyllum can be easily taken for a peony. It is also an important medicinal plant.

The desire to grow it from seeds for my garden lead to an in depth study on its seeds and germination pattern. The seeds are hydrophilic to extreme! I repeat it, because people are still trying to grow it from dry seeds = dead seeds.

Caulophyllum giganteum, early spring

Caulophyllum thalictroides, early spring foliage

Caulophyllum thalictroides, summer

Caulophyllum and Trillium grandiflorum

Caulophyllum thalictroides seeds

Caulophyllum giganteum seedlings

Few other posts on Caulophyllum: Purple beasties, Berberidaceae seeds and embryos, Caulosaurus

I will end with a picture taken last year in the garden. One more writing tomorrow and we’re done, spring is nearing and there are so many things to be done seedlings wise, before the purple beasties emerge :)

Caulophyllum giganteum garden grown, about 5 years old

Early August seeds collections

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The latest seeds collected: Uvularia grandiflora, Trillium flexipes, Paeonia officinalis, Paeonia mascula and Delphinium fissum.

The first seeds are also ripening on Roscoea schneideriana – in the image above; the green capsules of Roscoea will split up unexpectedly, watch them closely if you need to collect the seeds.

Speaking about species which need to be sown asap or kept moist packed, a couple of weeks ago, together with Streptopus amplexifolius, by good chance, seeds of Erythronium grandiflorum, the glacier lily, were also collected (in the mountains of SE BC).
Don’t miss the chance, such species are collected and offered only every 2-3 years (at the very best).

Erythronium grandiflorum

Erythronium grandiflorum in habitat

Streptopus amplexifolius

The first version of the Seeds list will emphasize on species which require to be sown by late summer/early fall for best germination results.

Stay tuned….

Growing Corydalis solida & allies from seeds

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Ephemerals at superlative, spring Corydalis species emerge fast, flower, set seeds and then quietly disappear in early summer. But for that brief time, they will fill your heart with unconditional love for the years to come. The ferny-looking foliage and long spurred, tube-shaped flowers are adorable providing the much needed burst of colors after our long winters; also, precious food for early pollinators. They are not a good fit for very ‘tidy’ gardeners, but for all of us wild at heart, they are on the list of  ‘plants we cannot live without’.

Every spring I look fwd to the first Corydalis solida (and others) to start poking through the ground. With the same excitement I await for the first bumblebees to arrive; the 2 events are tightly linked.
A little while ago, someone wrote to me to happily announce that his Corydalis seeds have germinated; the message was also somehow showing disbelief to see the seeds germinating and I wondered why? I showed and wrote so many times how easy it is to grow them from freshly sowed or moist packed seeds.

As it turns out, I wrote small bits here and there but there is no post with a clear title: Growing Corydalis from seeds on the Germination page. So, here it is one where I tried to put together everything I have. When they are in flower and later, there is little time left for writing.

Other species I’ve personally grown from seeds beside Corydalis solida, are: Corydalis malkensis, Corydalis caucasica, Corydalis paczoskii, Corydalis bracteata, C. intermedia, C. kusnetzovii, C. ambigua…. Also, Corydalis nobilis it is easily grown using the same method and probably other Corydalis species from any temperate/cold climate.

To start from the beginning: you need to sow fresh seeds or seeds that have been kept moist.
The seeds are ready sometime in late May/June in our climate. The capsules easily split open when mature and eject the seeds, so if you want to catch the seeds is best to go around the garden every day to collect the seeds. Even if they reseed easily, if you want to actively increase your stock, it is still the best to collect the seeds; otherwise, the ants will carry them maybe to places where not all the seeds may be able to germinate (the seeds present elaiosomes which attract ants).

The exact moment requires some practice to observe. After a while you will learn to ‘see’ when the right moment arrives. Be wary of collecting them too early! In the majority of cases, the seeds are black and shiny at maturity. You can sow them right away, or keep them for short periods of time. For this, place them in a small paper bag or in coffee filters. Coffee filters work great for keeping freshly collected seeds and you can even fold them to make small packets!

Corydalis solida mature capsules splitting

Corydalis solida seeds collecting

Corydalis solida seeds with elaiosomes

For best results the seeds need to be sown fresh or kept in slightly moist vermiculite for later sowing. By fresh, I don’t mean sowing the next day. The seeds can withstand a few weeks dry; placing them in moist vermiculite right away will lead to rot.

The seeding habit of Corydalis in nature gives us information about their germination requirements: cycles of summer-fall-winter temperatures, in moist conditions (warm/cold).

Sow the seeds as usual, using a slightly ‘heavier’ sowing mix: for example combine a sowing mix with some garden soil. Regular sowing mix contains too much peat and dries out excessively. It is never good for seeds/seedlings that are meant to stay in pots for 2-3 years.
 Also, because the seedlings will be grown in the same pot for 2-3 years, use slightly larger pots when sowing: 3,5 x 3,5 in or 4 x 4 in work well.  The seedlings will not be pricked out.
Add a layer of small gravel/grit, water well and place the pots in a shaded area. If critters are a problem, covering them with a mesh is a great idea. Water once is a while throughout the season, especially during the dry spells. Don’t forget that the seeds are ‘alive’ in the pots.
For the winter, leave the pots outdoors under snow, a cold frame, or make a little special area for your sowings, which can be covered with a fleece and a tarp until spring.

Likewise, you can dig a small trench and ‘plant’ the pots in it. That’s what I did when I had a large Corydalis sowing collection a few years ago. The soil around the pots maintains the humidity more constant. It is like sowing seeds directly in the ground, but with a bit more control.

Corydalis paczoksii germination

Corydalis spring seedlings

Corydalis solida: 1 and 2 years seedlings

Corydalis and other sowings

C. solida 2 years old seedlings

Corydalis solida 2 years old tubers

Freshly sown seeds will promptly germinate in the following spring, grow for a few months and then go dormant (you will notice the leaves yellowing from which point be careful not to overwater). Another season of ‘empty looking pots’ that need caring will follow.

My method is to grow them in the same pot for 2 years, and at the end of the second cycle, I plant the small tubers in the ground (sometime in July/August). In most cases, the first flowers will appear in the third year.
Of course, you can grow them in pots until flowering, if space is not a problem, although frankly I killed more ephemeral species in pots than when planted in the ground. It is much easier to let nature take care of them.

For those having no experience with sowing, I think the best is to sow the seeds directly in the ground (mix them in the top layer of soil), and let nature take its course. Like I explained with other occasions, when sowing directly in the garden, choose a location close to an establish large perennial, where you would water during dry spells. Don’t scatter the seeds over a large area, you can move them after 2-3 years when they get bigger (you can do the same for Erythronium and Trillium species).

Corydalis solida – ground seedlings

Corydalis nobilis- ground seedlings

Erythronium grandiflorum- ground seedlings

 

Corydalis solida cross-pollinate freely, which means that growing it from seeds, there is no guarantee you will obtain the same seedlings as the mother plants. The same is valid for a few other species. However, if you collect seeds from a population of the same color, then the chances of obtaining seedlings true to the mother-plant increase.

With this in mind, take it with a grain of salt when purchasing Corydalis tubers and proudly sticking the labels in the ground. The only way to have true to name cultivars is to propagate them vegetatively and that is not always the case.
On the positive side, cross pollination leads naturally to interesting forms; all one has to do is pay attention and select them.

How spring would look like without various Corydalis? I can’t imagine that. A short preview of the good things to come.

Corydalis solida emerging (April usually)

Corydalis solida

Corydalis solida and bumble bee1

Corydalis solida

Corydalis solida purple

Corydalis solida peach color

Corydalis malkensis mix

Corydalis bracteata

Corydalis paczoksii

Corydalis caucasica

Corydalis caucasica ‘Nadezhda’

Corydalis nobilis

We are well prepared now; waiting for them to flower again and if possible, provide more seeds!

Mandatory readings

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The first moist packed seeds of the season are flying to various destinations. I want everyone to be successful in germinating and growing these species.
I cannot devise a test but few previous writings are actually mandatory for all purchasing any moist packed seeds:

Moist packing – what’s that?

We got the moist packed seeds – now what?

Hepatica: pollination, seeds and germination

The inventory on Hepatica seeds will be updated tomorrow and few other seeds of warm germinating species will be added to the Spring Shipping rate category!

Until then, I’ll leave you all with the mandatory readings ;) and an image with juicy seeds of Erythronium americanum.

Erythronium americanum fresh seeds

 

FAQ – Moist packed seeds

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Many NA native species, especially spring flowering, are included in the ‘moist packed seeds‘ category (see also Corydalis & allies). By late spring this category is almost depleted of available seeds (with exception of Caulophyllum sometimes) because
the seeds not sold out during the fall/early winter season, will start to germinate in moist storage. You will find these species listed in green in the SEED LIST.

FAQ
Why are moist packed seeds not available year round?

  1. Because in the eventuality they are not sold out, they start to germinate in moist storage.
    Even if large quantities were to be collected, shipping past due germination dates would not be possible.
  2. When do they start to germinate?
    Depending on the species, it can happen as early as November (Paris quadrifolia and Asarum canadense) and December (Claytonia) and then gradually till February-March (most other species). In some cases ‘germination’ refers to roots only, with a another cycle of cold or warm/cold required  for complete germination.
  3. When is it best to purchase moist packed species?

As soon as they are announced available in the Shop (please subscribe to the blog) or at any time before they start to germinate or temperatures drop below zero (in the winter), at which point they cannot be shipped safely.
To be on the sure side, I would consider June (for the first species available) and  September/October/November ideal; these seeds are active physiologically and shipping them during deep freezes in the winter can be detrimental.

Various species with limited seeds on offer sell out fast (Claytonia, Hepatica forms) and it is best to buy them as soon as they are announced in the shop, starting in late May/June, (depending  on the weather).

To facilitate a faster shipping (and easier sowing) the first such fresh seeds of the season are being shipped packed only in glassine envelopes. which are included in plastic bags (with no vermiculite). The method was tested and works very well for the month of June.
For this reason we usually have a ‘flash’ sale in June for Hepatica, Claytonia and Corydalis when you can purchase them slightly discounted. Hepatica seeds are sold in this manner ONLY for a short period after collecting.

For those new to the “moist packing” subject, these postings may answer other questions:
Moist packing – what’s that?
We got the moist packed seeds – now what?

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We got the moist packed seeds – now what?

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Some have decided to buy moist packed seeds, and not only– many thanks to all!

I know that sowing in late fall/winter comes naturally for many people, but how about the summer/early fall sowing of moist packed seeds?
So, I will outline a few good practices; better to be safe than sorry :)

The received moist packed seeds need to be sown ASAP; keeping them for a couple of days at room temp after arriving is OK. The natural condition they are in right now is ‘warm’ cycle –  do NOT place them in the fridge!

Many of the early summer seeds/fruits collections have a ‘green’ appearance or elaiosomes. After a few weeks the seed coats mature turning brown-blackish and the elaiosomes dry out/shrivel.
So, yes, the seeds I packed yesterday, shown in the featured image, look OK; there is nothing wrong with them.

Being kept slightly moist, these seeds are more delicate (i.e., the seeds coats can be soft) so handle them gently; do not rub between fingers. Prepare a pot(s) with your usual sowing mix (mine is a mix made from Promix with a bit of 3 in one 1 or black soil added) and spread the whole content of the pack on the mix; there is no need to remove the vermiculite.
Cover with one more thin layer of the same mix, and if available top up with grit/vermiculite/small gravel – highly recommended for the summer sowings. Water thoroughly (meaning watering a few times or place the pot(s) in a shallow tray with water).

What to do with the pots? They only need to be watered at intervals, and you don’t want them in the way the whole summer; some may even germinate in the second spring from sowing (Hepatica, Sanguinaria).
Of course that everything here also applies for sowing dry seeds.

I know that not everyone has a dedicated area for sowings/seedlings, so here are few solutions:
1-5 species/pots
Include the pots in a plastic bag/large Ziploc for easy handling, to keep the moisture level even and avoid weeds. Not my favorite method, although I used it in the past for fall sowings. A SHADED position is a must! Don’t forget to open the bags to check moisture once in a while; moss may become a problem. Recently I keep all summer sowing pots in plastic boxes (in a shaded position) and it works better.

An easy method is to include few pots in a plastic bag and keep it in a shaded location (just an example, I don’t use it anymore)

My favourite is the ‘space saving method’ – bury the pots/or even larger containers in the ground (cover them with a mesh). I detailed this in the  Growing Jeffersonia from seeds post – please read more HERE.

A small, rectangle container (plastic or degradable) can be used for ‘community’ sowing, shown here already with grown seedlings (Maianthemum, Trillium… they were planted in the ground already).

You can go even further and place individual pots in a larger container (soil was added on the bottom of the container so the humidity level remains uniform); put your imagination to work!

Hepatica young seedlings, individual pots/large container – you can also use this method for sowing

A full tray of pots or more
You probably have a frame in this case :) but if not, choose one area somewhere in the shade (can be between other plants garden) where you can place the trays wrapped in a fine mesh.

Even better, if you have an available small spot around the backyard, make a simple wooden frame (you can also arrange flat rocks in a box-like shape) and place the pots inside with soil or sand underneath and in between; thus it is easy to cover them with a mesh and to keep the humidity constant during the summer months.
This is also good for keeping pots with summer dormant species like Corydalis, Claytonia and/or species that need more than one year to germinate.

Wood box-frame with dormant seedlings and new sowings

I realize that I forgot to mention the absolute most easiest method, which is: sowing the seeds ‘in situ’. It works wonderful for larger seeds like Caulophyllum, Uvularia but also feasible for Asarum, Sanguinaria and other species. Sow the seeds in the same location where you would plant them, water very well and cover with a mesh to deter the critters from digging them out. You have to pay particular attention to the sowing spot and water the seedlings during the first 1-2 seasons!

To end this long but hopefully useful post, keep in mind that the moist stored seeds are very fragile and, like all the other seeds, they are alive! Letting the pots dry out for an extended period during summer would surely result in no-germination next spring.

“When you think about it, seeds are improbable things. They don’t really seem alive, but of course they are, in a hidden kind of way….” – W. Cullina.

 

Moist packing – what’s that?

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As I was packing seeds today, I thought that maybe some people who never bought or they buy for the first time moist packed seeds may wonder what they would get.

Sometimes I get questions as well, so although I have shown pictures in previous posts, it is good to tell again. There is no secret; seeds that are known to be hydrophilic (to make a long story short – these are seeds which need to be sown right away after collecting or if not, kept moist to preserve their viability), are cleaned from the fruits and stored in slightly moist vermiculite in Ziploc bags. And no, there is no need to spray the seeds with anything chemical.

For shipping, the portion of seeds is placed in smaller bags with a bit of the moist vermiculite (*exception for some AU and NZ orders, when the seeds may be packed with a piece of moist paper towel). These seeds are to be sown right away after receiving.

Asarum canadense moist packed seeds for shipping

These small bags are not intended for storing the seeds long term!!! (I know someone tried to do that, that’s why I mention it). If you really want to keep the seeds longer, and /or provide stratification in the fridge instead of sowing, you need to transfer them in larger bags with added moist vermiculite (slightly moist peat works as well).

Very small seeds, like those of Coptis shown in the picture, are easily sown by spreading the content of the bag on top of the potting mix (no need to pick the seeds from the vermiculite). Even larger seeds are better sown this way.

Coptis trifolia moist packed seeds

In case of hydrophilic seeds, if kept dry they will either not germinate at all, or will germinate poorly/over a longer period of time. Keeping them moist and allowed the required cycles that mimic the natural conditions will result most times, in 100% germination in the spring. It is a lot of extra work but worth doing it.

Corydalis solida seedlings

Jeffersonia diphylla seedlings

Jeffersonia diphylla seedlings

Claytonia virginica seedlings

Claytonia virginica seedlings

Hepatica americana seedlings

Sanguinaria canadensis seedlings

Stylophorum diphyllum

Thank you! – Merci! to all our customers

 

The Lord of the Corydalis

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I someone would ask me, I would say that no garden is complete without at least one member of the ephemeral genus of Corydalis. The more common is the delightful Corydalis solida and varieties but wait until you meet the lord of the genus: Corydalis nobilis. If lucky to be able to drive you can see it in flower at Lost Horizons Nursery  (not applying anymore, the nursery has closed down). It does not look quite like a Corydalis and it is hard to believe that it will  become dormant in early summer.

Corydalis nobilis in early spring

Sometimes called Siberian Corydalis, Corydalis nobilis (Fam. Fumariaceae) was introduced in cultivation in Sweden in 1765 due to a fortunate mistake. The  seeds received by Linnaeus were collected from Siberia (Altai mountain range) and believed to be of Lamprocapnos spectabilis. This wonderful Corydalis still grows happily in Carl Linnaeus’ gardens at Upsalla and at Hammarby. Unfortunately, the prediction of  “a great horticultural future” for this species has not become true yet. Not being very easy to propagate might have something to do with this. It is available only from a few specialty nurseries in Europe and North America, and of course some years at Lost Horizons.

Corydalis nobilis is very hardy and will start growing quite fast in the spring achieving a 30-50 cm tall clump with juicy stems and green-blue ferny leaves. It produces lots of inflorescences, very dense, with 20-35 flowers, golden yellow with the inner petals dark violet at the top. Flowering lasts for about three weeks in April-May, and it has a spicy fragrance.

Corydalis nobilis inflorescence

Origin: NW. Siberia, Kazakhstan, Mongolia, N. Xinjiang (China). Propagated by seed (sown immediately when ripe, otherwise the ants will run away with them to feed on the elaiosomes) or by division in the fall. Corydalis nobilis has an irregularly branched, fragile rootstock, not easy to divide; you can see it here (courtesy of Rare Books – Missouri Botanical Garden Library). It can grow in full sun or shade, but will thrive best in a place reasonable dry during the summer. A focal point in the spring garden, the Lord of the genus Corydalis never fails to attract attention and questions from the visitors.

Corydalis nobilis in the Display Garden at Lost Horizons