One more section added to the Hepatica page; click on the picture or visit the main page.
One more to go…Let’s hope the ice storm goes easy on us and we can relax with the pictures gallery on the weekend.
Short update on Jeffersonia diphylla germination.
I kept a small batch of seeds in the fridge to see if they will start to germinate at cold; some species do it, others not.
Those who bought seeds should see the first seedlings appearing somewhere in May :)
Jeffersonia diphylla – germination start in early April at cold; seeds kept moist at all times, warm, then cold (fridge)
As soon as I saw the first sign of Hepatica buds movement in the garden and the tiny new seedlings of the year, I felt a sense of urgency to organize all the material I’ve been gathering on Hepatica.
The queens of the woodlands will bring the forest floor to life once again in no time!
Having had other posts published and a lot of pictures I thought it would be easy; more than a week later, I was proven wrong.
I am almost done – this is the big purple button leading to their page :)
These are the published sections of the page (you can enter by clicking the pictures as well):
Two more sections to follow shortly:
Hepatica: Pollination, seeds & germination
Pictures gallery
When I embarked on my seeds adventures few years ago, I’ve decided that there will be no DOD’s offered by BotanyCa (DOD = dead on delivery).
Sometimes seeds won’t germinate from unforeseen reasons, abnormalities and so on… Offering seeds that you know from the beginning won’t germinate or will germinate in very low percentage is a completely different story.
So, I accept the losses and the fact that there will always be leftover seeds germinated in the Ziploc bags by early spring.
When it comes to seeds, just like in nature, everything is accomplished with a great waste of energy. Yet, I am always sad when the time comes to end their ephemeral life.
Stylophorum lasiocarpum germinated seeds
Saruma henryi: germinated seeds which cannot be safely shipped anymore
On the other hand, I imagine the joy of all those who bought moist packed seeds when they start to germinate!
Other species which ALWAYS start to germinate by late February when kept moist are: Asarum ssp,, Claytonia, most Corydalis, Aconitum, Hepatica, Podophyllum spp., sometimes Maianthemum stellatum and M. canadense.
*If kept dry some of these species may germinate in the second year, in low percentage.
I hope there is be a better understanding now why seeds of these species need to be ordered in early winter!
I knew this it will happen sooner or later and I knew it will be a damn comp – running short on seeds for an order.
Luckily there are many other species that I can make up with for the missing Aster alpinus seeds.
Aster alpinus – good (upper right corner) and bad ‘seeds’
The embarrassing moment put behind, let’s have a look at a few more Comps flowers.
While in the Berberidaceae realm, here’s a post where I outlined as best as possible, the process of growing Podophyllums from seeds from A to Z.
The Chinese Podophyllums (syn. Dysosma), share similar seeds and germination requirements as our native Podophyllum peltatum (mayapple). In all cases, the seeds are enclosed inside fleshy fruits. After the fruits are collected, it is important to extract and clean the seeds right away. This can be a bit unpleasant because the inside containing the seeds is gelatinous (use a sieve and lightly rub the seeds out and rinse, rinse and rinse again).
The sowing must be done right away (Sept./October) or the seeds must be placed in moist vermiculite in Ziploc bags until sowing. The seeds are easy to keep in moist vermiculite as long as were well cleaned; you only have to check the moisture level once in a while (one exception noted for Dysosma aurantiocaule, when the seeds got soft fast (but I had a small lot of seeds and cannot really generalize).
I must emphasize that these seeds are hydrophilic, and using dry seeds to sow, in my opinion, is a complete waste of time.
Dysosma seeds in moist storage
The required cycles for germination are: Light WARM (late fall temperatures)/COLD (winter)
- Sowing outside: the time would be early to late fall. Sow as usual in pots/large containers, water and keep them over the winter in a cold frame. Easy done, no worries!
Podophyllum peltatum, Mayapple, seedlings germinated outdoors showing the cotyledon leaves; they will remain at this stage in the first year and do not need pricking out. Later in the season, they become dormant (do not throw away the pots!)
- Sowing indoors: usually done in the winter/early spring with seeds that have been kept moist and allowed a light warm/cold period. The cold period can be provided in a cold garage/fridge. It is not advisable to use this method unless enough light can be provided for the growing seedlings (light stand, conservatory).
If someone wants to speed up the process, the Ziploc bags with seeds can be taken out of the fridge around late January/February and kept at room temperature; gradually the seeds will start to germinate and can be potted up one by one and placed under the lights.
Dysosma hybrids (pleiantha x versipellis, syn. Podophyllum pleianthum x versipelle) seedlings
Or, leave the Ziploc in the fridge until all seeds start to germinate towards spring (approx. March/April), pot them up and provide adequate conditions until they can go outside.
Dysosma hybrid, seeds germinated in the fridge, April 21
In most cases, only cotyledon leaves will be formed, in other cases the true leaves will appear as well. Usually, Podophyllum peltatum will form only cotyledon leaves in the first season, grow for a while and then go dormant; the Chinese ones are variable, most will form a true leaf. When growing from seeds there is always great variability.
Keep the seedlings in a part shaded place, water and feed lightly. At some point in the summer they may go dormant, especially in very hot weather.
All the seedlings which didn’t form a true leaf in the first year, will do it in the second year. Be patient, like with all other species that form a rhizome. In general, 3-4 years are necessary to obtain a good young plant; they will grow really fast after the root system has bulked up.
Podophyllum hexandrum (syn. Synopodophyllum hexandrum)
The difference in this case is that the seeds are not hydrophilic, so they can be kept dry in the fridge for quite a few years. Of course, when sown fresh (fall), they will germinate in the spring.
For dry seeds, a GA3 treatment followed by sowing at room temperature usually will result in rapid germination, and sometimes most seedlings will present the true leaf (but not always).
Podophyllum hexandrum seedling with true leaf
Important for all species: in the first 1-2 years lots of energy is put into forming the radicular system; this translates in the fact that the seedlings need enough space to develop. So, either sow fewer seeds per pot or transplant them in individual pots as soon as possible (in dormant stage!).
I think my pictures show very well what I mean; learn from my mistakes ;) If you sowed too dense don’t panic; when the seedlings are dormant (in very early spring), shake the soil, untangle the roots gently and pot them in a fresh mix in larger size pots.
Podophyllum hexandrum crowded seedlings after one season growth in the same pot
Podophyllum hexandrum one-year seedlings prepared for repotting, notice the variation in size
Again, there is always variation when growing from seeds; we cannot expect all the seeds, even from the same batch, to grow the same: the collection site, mother-plant, ambient factors, all have an influence in germination & growth of the seedlings. This picture with one year old Dysosma plants shows it very well:
Dysosma hybrid one year old plants, prepared to be repotted in early spring
I hope this will be helpful for all wanting to grow any Podophyllum/Dysosma species from seeds – Happy Podos growing!
I wanted something special for this arctic day and the woolly seeds of Strophostyles helvola are just perfect; I will stress again the woolly :)
Strophostyles helvola coiled pods and seeds
Strophostyles helvola, trailing wild bean (or amberique bean) is an annual vine native to eastern Canada and the US; the pea-like flowers are light pink/lilac and they form pods very similar with those of Phaseolus vulgaris; the pod coils when it dries up to release 4-8 woolly seeds.
The stems will trail on other plants, or if not, will inter-twine with each other on the ground, just like Amphicarpaea bracteata does (google images).
This species has had various medicinal uses for the Native Peoples, and there are also indications that the seeds were used as a food source; they were found in a few archeological sites in NA.
Those interested can read more about this in the curriculum of the Advanced Paleoethnobotany Seminar from Washington University: https://pages.wustl.edu/fritz/strophostyles-helvola-l.-elliot
And, while talking wild foods, it’s winter so new ideas are always welcomed – have a look at this article which recommends other edible species found on the coastal habitat (same where Strophostyles can also be found):
What about: amberique-bean humus with cattails au gratin?
Go foraging this year! :))
To finalize the query about the new Viola I was talking last week, pictures of seeds were taken (more detailed than usual): size, surface, colour, aril size and aspect are all useful characters for identification.
Viola cf. declinata seeds
Unfortunately, not having a term of comparison the identity is still uncertain. So, until I grow a few plants it will be offered as Viola cf. declinata.
While at it, why not see about other Viola spp. seeds? And, of course, why not have a Violaceae page in the Seeds Library? Have a look and notice the subtle differences between Viola renifolia and Viola macloskeyi seeds (these two native species are a bit hard to differentiate).
And how about a Viola category in the seeds shop? :)) On this occasion, I ‘discovered’ I forgot to add the Viola pubescens, as well as Viola jooi seeds to the inventory.
It’s so good to have everything in one place!
Having too many seeds makes it hard to choose which one to show/write about.
I am going the easy way with the last species uploaded to the shop – the Kalm’s St. John’s wort, a (sub)shrub native of the Great Lakes region in Canada and US.
Hypericum kalmianum seeds – Kalm’s St. John’s wort (Fam. Hypericaceae)
Cultivated to some extent, this Hypericum has narrow bluish-green leaves and cheerful, large golden flowers with extruded stamens in late summer; the capsules mature very late.
It is a showy, adaptable plant; evergreen (or partly) and as one can guess after its wild habitat, with excellent cold hardiness. Another attractive feature is the brown/reddish bark which peels off.
Lots of qualities!
The specific epithet honors Pehr Kalm, one of Linnaeus’ disciples ; an explorer, botanist and naturalist, he traveled to and lived for a while in North America in mid-17th , discovering and writing about plants, animals, insects, Niagara Falls, and in general about the life of American colonies at the time.
Another species that can be found with H. kalmianum, bearing the same name is Lobelia kalmii shown in the gallery.
Days are short now so you can start to read more about Pehr in the wiki stub and then follow other links: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pehr_Kalm
Honestly, I had no intention to write another post so soon, but plants need to be shown at their best moments. And, Amsonia hubrichtii, the Arkansas bluestar is absolutely radiant right now.
Amsonia hubrichtii in late fall
Depending how much sun receives it may also take a russet hue (notice the capsules).
I won’t wonder again about why is not cultivated more; the images speak for themselves. It is a foliage plant by definition, the thread- like leaves will combine beautifully with almost anything else; those who want more flowery display should plant other perennials close to it and let them complement/weave through the delicate foliage.
The flowers are pale blue, not very noticeable but a nice addition.
With Delphinium likiangense; probably larkspurs (Consolida regalis) would make for a nice combination as well.
Without thinking much, one year I planted Dahlia coccinea behind it; now it has become the rule.
The seeds are quite particular, like of other Amsonias (Fam. Apocynaceae); the fruits (capsules) can be spotted in one image above.
Amsonia hubrichtii seeds
PS. It is a bit late to emerge in the spring; planting a bunch of small spring bulbs & daffodils close to the clump will do the trick ;)
Another belated Friday’s seeds would have been unacceptable, so a plant portrait instead (seeds included ;) about the cranberry – Vaccinium macrocarpon, American cranberry.
The Cranberry is a North American symbol. If you have the chance to hike in northern region you’ll have the chance to see it growing wild, most often on wet areas on acidic substrates. First time I encounter it, I wondered how many people actually know how the plant looks like, despite the fact they often eat the fruits dried/fresh and also as part of other products?
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit
It is very surprising to see that the large fruits are formed on thin, graceful trailing branches. Is this indeed The Cranberry? (shown in the picture trailing on a sphagnum moss carpet during the fall).
Vaccinium macrocarpon, growing over a sphagnum moss carpet in the fall
Yes, it is; after all ‘macrocarpon’ means ‘large fruit’. So, it is a small size plant with big fruits :)
Another species, Vaccinium oxycoccos, the small cranberry, is very similar and distinguishable by its pointed leaves (and few other details). The cranberries are specific wetlands species: they grow on swamps, fens, and occasionally on glacial deposits in kettle holes on shorelines (like shown in the picture). Usually will form mats on Sphagnum moss. The leaves are shiny green/glaucous beneath and turn bright red in the fall.
In Canada, the American cranberry can be found from Manitoba to Newfoundland, and south into the mid-western and eastern U.S. Probably in some areas the fruits are still collected in the wild but most came from commercial operations now. It was one of the first medicinal plant crop to be grown commercially in the U.S.; maybe in Canada as well.
Traditionally, Indigenous People have gathered and consumed the fresh fruits for their vitamin C content and also used them dried and mixed with fat/dried meat and fish.
To note only few of the more ‘modern’ utilizations: juice and pie making, jams, dried fruits, and in many naturopathic preparations (mostly for bladder and kidney infections).
Have a bog/wet, acidic area in the garden? – do not hesitate to grow this lovely North American shrub!
Never enough gentians….
In my opinion the bumble bees did a great job with Gentiana andrewsii. There are enough seeds for Canada 150 Celebration sale, and also for the seeds exchanges! :)
Bumble bee pollinating Gentiana andrewsii
A well done job
