Easy species to grow from seeds – Edraianthus graminifolius

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I’ve started to put together a list with species easy to grow from seeds as a way to provide info and encouragement to those who are at the beginning of their seeds adventures. The list will see additions as we go.

First, a short plant portrait fro Edraianthus graminifolius.

Edraianthus graminifolius, Grassy bells, belongs to the Campanula family and like its name suggests, has linear, grassy-looking leaves and large,

Edraianthus graminifolius

blue flowers, in terminal clusters in May-June. The foliage remains tight and low at about 15 cm but the flowering stems are spreading/trailing so it needs its space ;) A delightful, easy going plant, as long as grown in full sun/well drained locations. You don’t really need a rock garden for it; just keep in mind its growth habit and place it in a suitable spot.

Growing for the first time from seeds, or just want to try something easy? Try something from the list below.
‘Easy to grow from seeds’ means:
– easy to germinate & in large percentage
– seedlings that aren’t fussy to grow
– also, easy going plants in the garden, as long as provided with the required conditions.

I will avoid the so called two-stage germinators (although all you have to do is wait, for ex. Helleborus) or others that I never germinate/grown myself, also species with naturally low germination rates, those where the seedlings need special care and plants I’m not quite sure about. For sure there could be more species added to this list.

Easy species to grow from seeds
(they will germinate at room temperature or after being sown outdoors in the spring; aka. warm germinators)

Acinos alpinus
Allium thunbergii and few other Allium
Aquilegia canadensis and most other Aquilegia
Amphicarpaea

Arenaria (most species)
Arabis species
Anthemis carpatica and other Anthemis species (first, check very well the seeds!)
Arisaema triphyllum
Arisaema flavum and other Arisaema
Astragalus (with HWT)
Asphodeline lutea
Asphodeline taurica
Aurinia saxatilis
Alyssum
Baptisia australis (using the HWT)
Berkheya purpurea
Bukiniczia cabulica

Campanula, many species
Capnoides sempervirens
Caragana (HWT)
Carlina acaulis
Calycanthus floridus (after nicking the seeds)
Centaurea triumfettii, Centaurea orientalis, and other Centaurea species
Cerastium alpinum ssp. lanatum
Cercis canadensis
Cirsium spp. (some species, C. canuum)

Draba species
Delphinium grandiflorum and other species
Dianthus ssp.

Echinops crispus and other Echinops
Edraianthus graminifolius and other Edraianthus (not all species though)
Erinus alpinus
Erythranthe guttata

Gentiana cruciata, G. dahurica
other Gentiana spp. from Cruciata section
Gypsophila species

Hedysarum (using the HWT)
Hieracium lanatum

Ipomopsis rubra
Iris dichotoma
Iris domestica
Kalmia
Kernera saxatilis
Lathyrus vernus (light scarification)
Lilium formosanum var.pricei
Linaria spp.
Lychnis ssp.

Erythranthe guttata
Minuartia, some species
Mitella diphylla
Monarda
Mimulus lewisii
Oxytropis with HWT (or scarification)
Papaver species
Paronychia cephalotes
Phyteuma scheuchzeri and other Phyteuma
Platycodon

Primula japonica and other Primula spp. (some exceptions)
Pulsatilla vulgaris, other species, hybrids,
Physochlaina orientalis
Rhodiola
Most Rhododendron species
Roscoea species

Sedum ssp., Sempervivums
most Silene species
Scabiosa caucasica, other Scabiosa spp.
Scutellaria pontica and other ssp.
Stylophorum diphyllum (fresh or moist kept seeds)

Thermopsis (using HWT)
Thalictrum cf. foetidum
Thalictrum rochebruneanum and few other Thalictrum
Thymus species
Viola – some species

HWT – it means applying the hot water treatment before sowing; it can be replaced by light scarification.

Friday’s Seeds and plant portrait – Amsonia hubrichtii

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Honestly, I had no intention to write another post so soon, but plants need to be shown at their best moments. And, Amsonia hubrichtii, the Arkansas bluestar is absolutely radiant right now.

Amsonia hubrichtii in late fall

Depending how much sun receives it may also take a russet hue (notice the capsules).

I won’t wonder again about why is not cultivated more; the images speak for themselves. It is a foliage plant by definition, the thread- like leaves will combine beautifully with almost anything else; those who want more flowery display should plant other perennials close to it and let them complement/weave through the delicate foliage.

The flowers are pale blue, not very noticeable but a nice addition.

With Delphinium likiangense; probably larkspurs (Consolida regalis) would make for a nice combination as well.

Without thinking much, one year I planted Dahlia coccinea behind it; now it has become the rule.

The seeds are quite particular, like of other Amsonias (Fam. Apocynaceae); the fruits (capsules) can be spotted in one image above.

Amsonia hubrichtii seeds

PS. It is a bit late to emerge in the spring; planting a bunch of small spring bulbs & daffodils close to the clump will do the trick ;)

 

The cranberry

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Another belated Friday’s seeds would have been unacceptable, so a plant portrait instead (seeds included ;) about the cranberry – Vaccinium macrocarpon, American cranberry.

The Cranberry is a North American symbol. Recently I’ve seen it growing in the wild and asked myself how many people actually know how the plant looks like?

Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit

It is very surprising to see that the large fruits are formed on a small trailing vine, which has thin, graceful branches. Is this indeed The cranberry?

Vaccinium macrocarpon

Yes, it is; after all ‘macrocarpon’ means ‘large fruit’.
Another species, Vaccinium oxycoccos, the small cranberry, is very similar and distinguishable by its pointed leaves (and few other details). The cranberries are specific wetlands species: they grow on swamps, fens, and occasionally on glacial deposits in kettle holes on shorelines (like shown in the picture). Usually will form mats on Sphagnum moss; leaves are shiny green/glaucous beneath and turn bright red in the fall.

Vaccinium macrocarpon habitat

Vaccinium macrocarpon

Vaccinium macrocarpon seeds

The American cranberry can be found from Manitoba to Newfoundland, and south into the mid-western and eastern U.S. Probably in some areas fruits are still collected in the wild but most came from commercial operations. It was one of the first medicinal plant crop to be grown commercially in the U.S.; maybe in Canada as well.

Traditionally, Native people have gathered and consumed the fresh fruits for their vitamin C content and also used them dried and mixed with fat/dried meat and fish.
To note only few of the modern utilizations: they are used mainly for juice and pie making, jams, dried fruits, and for naturopathic preparations (bladder and kidney infections).

Have a bog/wet, acidic area in the garden? – do not hesitate to grow this lovely North American shrub!

 

Overheating – Roscoea tibetica f. atropurpurea

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In this part of the world, the heat & humidity combined together can be quite unbearable. Today, we reached around 38C, with the humidex!
Even the little Roscoea tibetica f. atropurpurea couldn’t take it anymore and the first capsule bursted out in desperation. Two more to follow…

Roscoea tibetica f. atropurpurea with split capsule

I talked about this Roscoea a few times; a cute little thing and a curiosity. It shows up very late (June), produces only few flowers and it is so small that it needs a special place to be seen. Plus, the capsules split in a most unattractive way. Still, I found it charming :) Don’t you?

Roscoea tibetica f. atropurpurea – measured last year

The Goldthread

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One little species I’ve just managed to collect seeds from, although not an easy task, is the Goldthread – Coptis trifolia.

A member of Ranunculaceae with circumboreal distribution, Coptis enjoys cooler, moist conditions in deciduous or coniferous forests and often grows on mossy bumps on the wetland edges together with other species like Medeola, Clintonia, Viola macloskeyi, Trientalis borealis, Skunk cabbage…

Coptis trifolia, Goldthread; the name goldthread comes from the golden-yellow, thin rhizomes that were chewed by Native Americans to treat mouth sores, and later used as ingredients in gargles for sore throats and eye washes.

Almost every year I have the privilege to admire the white, rich in nectar flowers early in the spring, at the same time when Hepatica is in flower (in SW Ontario). It will put up new shiny, evergreen trifoliate leaves after is done flowering and setting seeds.

About the seeds, well, being a Fam. Ranunculaceae member, usually the germination may be a bit difficult. Going deeper into the subject, it seems that the tiny seeds contain an even tinier underdeveloped embryo. Like other Ranunculaceae with similar seed collection times and underdeveloped embryos, for best germination I recommend a slightly warm/moist stratification period (meaning sowing in early fall asap) followed by a cold/moist stratification (winter). Even so, it is possible to require a second warm/cold cycles and the germination to occur in the second year after sowing.

 

Coptis trifolia capsules and seeds (1 mm grid)

Coptis trifolia growing on moss covered decayed stump, with Medeola virginiana and Canada Mayflower (Maianthemum canadense).

Given the small size of the seeds and considering the way is naturally growing, it can be tried by sowing the seeds in moss, as described for Gaultheria procumbens.

Note: Coptis trifolia was first described as Helleborus trifolius by Linnaeus in 1753.  

Refreshing – Aconitum ‘Ivorine’

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White on blue is a refreshing combo. Yesterday, amidst the heat wave I took few pictures of Aconitum ‘Ivorine’ just starting flowering.
Pure white, tinged with green flowers on sturdy stems make this Aconitum very appealing.  The bluish background provided by Juniperus ‘Wichita’ is pure serendipity – most of my plants were planted where I could find a proper space in this new garden without much thinking of colour combinations.

Aconitum septentrionale ‘Ivorine’

It doesn’t clump excessively, which is unfortunate; I could use more seeds, so this is the next ‘ivory’ generation! Very easy to germinate if the seeds are sown fresh or kept moist and allowed a warm/cold cycle. The pots can be brought indoors around February to germinate and grown under lights will achieve a better growth by June. I had no more space available this year so they germinated outside somewhere beginning of May.

Aconitum septentrionale ‘Ivorine’ freshly transplanted seedlings

 

 

 

Exception – Sedum atratum

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Growing annual plants is very satisfying – they germinate, grow, flower and set seeds in one season; some will also self-seed themselves for the next year; nothing to worry about throughout the winter…I can understand the attraction. But I still like to grow perennials ;))

Sometimes I make exceptions – and Sedum atratum is one notable because I collected the seeds from a place in the Carpathians that is not easy to reach; it reminds me about ‘my mountain’, and belongs to the ‘little plants’ category.

Sedum atratum ssp. atratum in the Carpathian Mts.

Last year some nocturnal animal took a snack from a little clump growing at the edge of the rockery; luckily a few seeds were already into the safety of the tufa rocks and I can continue to enjoy it. Maybe even collect a few seeds later.

Sedum atratum ssp. atratum among Dryas octopetala ‘Tundra Pygmy’

Sedum atratum ssp. atratum is an annual species, with the mention that I’ve seen non-flowering rosettes and most likely also behaves as a biennial; from the mountains of South and Central Europe.
It is great in a rockery or scree area, showing here in there, without bothering other species; small, fleshy stems and leaves, which turn deep red later in the season.
Best to scatter the seeds in the desired place, in late fall or early spring.

 

Back to basics – Aquilegia

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Most probably the first plant I grew successfully from seeds (that is, which I saw it flowering :) was an Aquilegia. I don’t remember precisely which one and it doesn’t matter; I like them all very much. They are easy to grow, provide a whole array of heights/colours and are good pollinator plants.

Yes, some are short lived, and yes, most will be attacked by leafminer, and of course, they hybridize and not all seedlings come true to the mother plant, but I still like them very much.

Aquilegia flabellata var. pumila has few of the above mentioned flaws: it usually comes true from seeds, and the thick, leathery foliage won’t be affected by the leafminer (or very weak attack); all ‘flabellatas’ could be grown just for their handsome, fan-shaped foliage.

Aquilegia flabellata var.pumila – cute as a ‘button’ ; grown from seeds of course

 

A. flabelata ‘Nana Alba’ will be flowering soon…
Update – and it did, not a ‘nana’ but very beautiful!

 

Snowflakes by design: Mitella diphylla

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The genus name Mitella comes from the Greek ‘mitra’= cap and the common name bishop’s cap or mitrewort refers to the cap-shaped fruit.

Myriads of Mitella diphylla flowers are still falling from the sky; I mean snowflakes of course. Not too many people are familiar with this dainty North American woodlander; what a pity…

It can be found growing in deciduous woodlands in part shaded areas, most often at the edges of the forest. It is easily noticeable despite its small flowers, somewhere at the beginning of May. A better timetable is to consider that it flowers at the same time with Trillium grandiflorum, Uvularia grandiflora and Coptis trifolia.

Mitella diphylla, Two-leaved bishop’s cap (Fam. Saxifragaceae) – Tall flowering stems carrying small, fringed, snowflakes shaped flowers above a pair of leaves. Fruits are dehiscent capsules with many small, black seeds.

Mitella is not an easy subject to capture on camera

What I like even more about Mitella is that the basal leaves are evergreen; a most useful character in our climate with long flowerless periods. I cannot take a picture in the garden right now, but I have one from the previous garden showing it together with Cyclamen hederifolium and Hepatica in late November.

Mitella diphylla, Cyclamen and Hepatica foliage in November

Propagation: very easy from seeds (sown in the fall). My seedlings have started to flower in the third year. After it gets established it can also be divided (it forms a rather tight clump so there is no worry about potential invasiveness).

Mitella diphylla seeds

 

Surprise, surprise! – Iris pumila

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Growing from seeds is always full of surprises, especially for first time sowings, like in this case for Iris pumila.

Iris pumila – a dwarf, early spring flowering, bearded Iris with a wild distribution from Central Europe to the Caucasus. The large flowers can be violet, blue, purple, yellow, or in various combinations like it naturally happens in wild populations; it is super hardy and excellent for the rockery, or a sunny border.

For best germination, most sources suggest soaking the seeds and providing about 4 weeks warm and then a longer (few months) cold period. So, my plan was to keep the sowings the furnace room for 3-4 weeks (+/- 23C day/ 17C night) and then place the pots outside under snow for the remaining of the winter. I sowed on Dec. 19th – and a couple of days ago (Jan. 5)…surprise! I found some pots with the first shoots were out. The plan has changed of course, and my light stand will be up very soon :)

Iris pumila – seeds soaked, sown on Dec.19th at warm – first signs of germination Jan. 5th (few even sooner)

The pots contain seeds of differently coloured specimens, although this little Iris can provide even more surprises colour-wise!

I don’t know if the seeds will germinate in the same way after going into a deeper dormancy, but this is still a good time to sow – and few fresh seeds are still available in the shop!

Plants of the Canadian West Coast

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Sooke Coast Trail – part 1

At this time of year we are in need of sunny/flowery images, so I’ll quit the propagation stories for a while (I am sure some readers got heavily bored ;). Chance made it that I got to visit Victoria (situated on the southern part of Vancouver Island) in late May, but never got to sort through the many pictures; few posts will take care of this now ;)

A short note for those who are not familiar with the region: the southern part of Vancouver Island constitutes the northern growing limit for many species, which are common otherwise on the US west coast down to the Californian coastal mountains. Victoria is considered the mildest city in Canada and enjoys a sub-mediterranean climate (yes you hear me well!) with mild winters (snow is a very rare event), rainy springs and falls and dry summers (hardiness considered, zone 7-8).

The first highly recommended hiking destination, in a short driving distance from Victoria, is the Sooke area. There are a few trails available, which can be done partially or entirely. The Coast Trail in East Sooke Regional Park was particularly impressive (follow link to see map and read more).

view-from-sooke-coast-trail-2

View from Sooke Coast Trail

Excellent views are opening all along the trail, which follows the rocky coast, only with a few passages going deep into the forest (usually to go around a pocket beach). In between taking pictures and stopping to admire the wild, rugged landscape, time flies; I would say that at least two days are necessary to get a good grasp of its beauty.  It is very hard to choose only a few pictures to show.

view-from-sooke-coast-trail

View from Sooke Coast Trail

Plants speaking, the first species that makes you go – WoW! Is the Pacific Madrone – Arbutus menziesii. Any time I encounter in the wild a species previously known only from picture, there is a special feeling, same like meeting a person known previously only from correspondence. I couldn’t shake hands with the Arbutus :) but I was happy to brush my hand over the exquisite cinnamon/red, exfoliating bark.

arbutus-menziesii

Arbutus menziesii on Sooke Coast Trail – Pacific Madrone, Arbutus

Pacific Madrone/Arbutus is an evergreen tree with many other qualities, glossy leaves and creamy clusters of flowers (attracting many pollinators) followed by red fruits; all making for a most beautiful tree. And there is more – the trunk and branches are twisting in various ways, to the point that sometimes they will hug and gracefully slide along the rocks’ contour. Its native range extends from:  SW  Vancouver Island to south Baja California. It is found growing in dry open forests, rocky slopes, on coarse or shallow soils.

arbutus-menziesii-1

Arbutus menziesii

A. menziesii-bark

A. menziesii -flowers

A. menziesii -foliage

Another ‘staple’ species of the region is Sedum spathulifolium – the broadleaf stonecrop. It seems able to grow absolutely everywhere: on moss-layered rocks, decomposed tree trunks, wind blasted rocks in full sun or cascading over shaded boulders. Truly spectacular! Probably half of my pictures contain this Sedum in various plant-associations. I liked it best together with Cladonia or a Cladina sp. (the reindeer moss); the white-silvery, lacy lichen bringing out the beauty of the bluish foliage and the contrasting red stems & yellow flowers.

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Sedum spathulifolium and reindeer moss on Sooke Coast Trail

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Sedum spathulifolium 

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Sedum spathulifolium tumbling over the rocks

This post is getting a bit too long so more to follow…

Growing Jeffersonia from seeds

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You can apply the same technique for growing the Asian counterpart of our Jeffersonia, Jeffersonia dubia. 

I’ve repotted some fine young Jeffersonia seedlings two weeks ago and now it took me a great pleasure to write this post (year 2016 :). Jeffersonia diphylla (Twinleaf) is a wonderful NA species that should be mandatory for all gardens; the pictures show it in its glory at Aspen Grove Gardens.

A delight from early spring (April) to fall, and notice that although it is a woodland species, it can be grown with a fair amount of sun. At least sun in the spring when it flowers it is best.

Jeffersonia diphylla in April

Jeffersonia diphylla- late June

Jeffersonia diphylla fruits

Just like other bulbous/tuberous species that form rhizomes, Jeffersonia species need 2-3+ years to develop their root system before they will start flowering. The faster & better their rhizome grows, the sooner they will flower. Again, it is very easy to underestimate the size of a seedling root system. This is why the repotting is very important and can be done either in the fall or spring. Each period has its pros and cons, also depending on your winter storage possibilities.

 I will outline the whole process from sowing to repotting the seedlings:

  • Sow the seeds as soon as possible after collecting/receiving them. Otherwise, they have to be keep in moist storage at room temperature during the summer, and then in cold/moist storage. One observation is that these seeds don’t keep too well in moist storage, and they are usually available (if) for a short period.
  • Sow as usual in individual pots or use my ‘space saving method’ – also very practical for someone who doesn’t want to have one pot sitting around by itself. Sow all the seeds in one larger pot and ‘plant’ the pot in the ground (in late fall I added some mulch on top, removed in early spring).

Tip: ‘plant’ the pot close to a shrub/tall perennial plant that will shelter and shade the seedlings; also close to the house so you won’t forget about it (the seedlings require extra watering during dry spells). Mine was close/beneath an old Peony, unfortunately I don’t have a picture.

  • The seeds are germinating somewhere in May, depending on the locality and have very good germination capacity. Foliage wise, not much will happen the first season besides the one shoot with the cotyledon leaves. But keep in mind that underground the root system keeps growing!
Jeffersonia diphylla seedlings

Jeffersonia diphylla seedlings

  • Use a diluted fertilizer once in a while (only if you remember…), water regularly; nothing else to do till late fall.
  • By late October- early November watch for signs of dormancy and let the pot dry out a bit.
  • If you want to transplant them in late fall, tip off the whole content and gently separate the seedlings (don’t forget to congratulate yourself, take pictures, eat some chocolate/cake…)
jeffersonia-diphylla-one-year-seedlings-in-late-fall

Jeffersonia diphylla: one-year old seedlings ‘extracted’ from the pot

  • Repot them in a fresh potting mix (I don’t have any ‘special’ formulas); one or more seedlings/pot. Planting 2-3 seedlings/larger pot will make a ‘clump’ faster.
jeffersonia-diphylla-one-year-seedlings-in-late-fall1

Jeffersonia diphylla seedlings showing an extensive root system after one season of growth and a well formed bud.

  • Water well, and if it’s late November, that’s all they need.
  • Winter storage for the pots: in a cold frame, or again, ‘plant’ the pot(s) in the ground and throw mulch/few leaves on top.
jeffersonia-diphylla-repotted-one-year-seedlings

Jeffersonia diphylla: repotted seedlings ( I have 2-3/pot)

  • Another good option is to transplant the seedlings in the spring or grow them one more year in the same pot; this way the seedlings will be larger in size and easier to handle, especially for those who are not used with transplanting little seedlings.

Young Jeffersonia diphylla plants in late April.

Waiting for the first flowers in 3-4 years! Until then, both species have a very nice foliage, colorful in early spring, then with interesting leaves.

Special thanks to Robert Pavlis @ Aspen Grove Gardens, for growing this beautiful, ‘photogenic’ species and providing the material for this post, i.e. the Jeffersonia seeds :)

Update: More on Jeffersonia germination