I don’t aim to repeat here everything written about the gibberellic acid; most is easily accessible on the wide net. Anyone interested in plants knows that gibberellins are plant hormones which control various processes and the synthetic forms of the gibberellic acid are used in the horticultural industry for various purposes: from seed germination to inducing early flowering, fruit set, hybridization, and so on.
For those who never use it and/or are at the beginning of their growing from seeds journey, I will emphasize a few practical aspects about preparing and using a GA3 solution for home sowing by describing precisely what I do.
First, sources of GA3: google and you shall find :)
Every year there are various on-line offerings of powder GA3. I do not want to advertise for one source or another, just a warning: if something looks too cheap, it may not be the best quality.
How to use GA3
In powder form – many still employ this method although it is not as reliable as a prepared solution. Personally I don’t use the powder treatment; you cannot be sure of the concentration applied and if the seeds will absorb it equally.
Nevertheless, it’s easy to apply. One of the most common methods is to place the seeds on a moist folded piece of paper towel or a coffee filter and to add the GA3 (the amount taken on a toothpick tip). Place everything inside a plastic bag and keep it there until next day; then, sow the seeds right away.
Solution – if you want to be sure about the concentration, it is advisable to use it as a solution. The suitable concentrations to promote seed germination vary among different species, and there are still many species for which we don’t know if their germination would be better with GA3.
Many times you just need to experiment. I noticed from my experience and reading lots of articles on seed germination that good results can be obtained using concentrations from 250 ppm to 1000 ppm.
It is not difficult to prepare your own solution: best is to make a basic 1000 ppm solution and then use it as such or at lower concentrations by dilution.
How to prepare your basic 1000 ppm GA3 solution (assuming you have GA3 98% purity)
The basic stock solution of 1000 ppm (parts per million) is prepared by dissolving GA3 in water at a rate of 1mg (1000 mg= 1 g) in 1 ml (1000 ml= 1 l).
Therefore, if you buy one packet of 100 mg GA3, it will have to be dissolved in 100 ml of water to obtain a 1000 ppm solution; 200 mg in 200 ml and so on….
For home use I don’t think anyone needs more than 100 ml, so let’s do this:
Have handy: your powder GA3 100 mg, 100 ml distilled water (tap water OK too), little amount of alcohol (purest ethanol possible), and a clean 100 ml (or larger) bottle for the final solution. I use the water at room temperature.
Bottle with GA3 solution
Add the powder and maybe ¼ of the water, plus a few drops of alcohol in the bottle and start shaking well; be patient; add more of the water and keep shaking. If the GA3 doesn’t dissolve well, add a few more drops of alcohol; shaking, shaking….20(30) min. should do it.
If after all this the powder has not entirely dissolved it means the GA3 you bought had many impurities.
So you have your 1000 ppm solution.
Label your 1000 ppm GA3 bottle and keep it in the fridge. Don’t forget that this is a chemical substance after all, and it shouldn’t be kept in containers without a clear label. The solution remains active for at least 2 years, probably even longer, but of course its efficacy will decrease.
To prepare a 500 ppm solution, extract any given quantity from the 1000 ppm sol. and add the same quantity of water, all in a separate bottle (don’t forget to label it).
What to treat with GA3?
Think first about what kind of seeds you are sowing and which are their germination requirements.
GA3 is often used to replace the cold period required by various species for seeds germination (cold/moist stratification) and to speed up germination in general.
Therefore, if you live in a warm climate, you are running short of time, or want to speed up the process, you can use it for these purposes.
Warning: it does not always work; don’t be disappointed. For some species even very cold winters won’t do the trick to break seeds dormancy.
Also, sometimes, it is necessary to use a combination of treatments.
For those living in a climate with cold winters, it is much simpler and even better to sow and provide the cold/moist stratification outdoors over the winter.
For Aconitum spp. (and other Ranunculaceae species which have seeds with immature embryos), GA3 has been found useful to promoting embryo growth, so indirectly it will improve germination.
It also comes in handy when sowing older seeds, which may have a lower germination capacity.
There is no point to use GA3 for any kind of seeds. For example, in the case of species with very hard/impermeable seed coats (Fabaceae), using GA3 makes no difference because it cannot be absorbed.
Applying the treatment
Prepare a few small containers (bottle caps, small holders, yoghurt cups…), place your seeds inside and pour GA3 solution on top, just enough to cover the seeds. For larger size seeds, you can also use small plastic bags. I usually leave the seeds in solution until next day.
Important: have everything ready and sow the next day after the treatment; water the pots well, and place at warm or cold as required.
GA3 treatment and sowing the seeds afterwards; sow as usual, next day after treating the seeds
For tiny, fine seeds (Saxifraga for example) it’s more practical to place the seeds on a piece of paper towel, soak it with GA3 solution, fold the paper and keep it in a plastic bag until next day; before sowing, just squeeze the paper towel and then it will be easy to shake the seeds on top of the potting mix. Likewise, a pipette/syringe can be used to collect and distribute the small seeds on the mix.
Side effects: one common side effect is that the seedlings will grow elongated and weak, especially if the concentration was too strong and/or the 
seed coats remain attached to the cotyledons (in this case cover the pot with a moist paper towel, and you can remove the seed coats after they get soft); Gentiana lutea seedlings after GA3 treatment.
What I am using it for?
I had my share of using GA3 just for fun, like many others probably. Right now I sometime use GA3:
On experimental purpose when reliable germination info is not available and for older seeds to test the germination capacity, especially for small size seeds.
On a more regular base for:
Glaucidium palmatum: there is a bit of controversy in this case and after I have germinated seeds for a few years and also heard other people’s experiences, it is fair to say that this is a species with combined morpho-physiological dormancy: from any given batch, some seeds will germinate at warm, some only after a cold period. I find that with a GA3 treatment I obtain a better germination at warm (but a few seeds will still germinate only next year after one more warm/cold period).
One can easily sow Glaucidium without GA3 in late fall/winter and provide cold/moist stratification; some seeds will germinate in the following spring, some in the second year.
Podophyllum hexandrum – for the Chinese mayapple, the treatment with GA3 will induce germination with the true leaves, thus speeding up the process; in the second image – seedlings obtained with GA3 treatment in the first summer.
Aquilegia species: only because I start my Aquilegia species indoors; I use 500 ppm GA3 to promote a good, uniform germination (but you can easily provide Aquilegia with cold/moist stratification and obtain good germination).
Sometimes for Gentiana species: some will germinate well when treated with 500- 1000 ppm GA3 (G. lutea, G. purpurea).
I also got good results for Rhodiola spp., few Thalictrum species (to speed up the germination), Androsace villosa (and subsp. of villosa).
Germinating right now after GA3 treatment and short term cold/dark – Androsace barbulata. I noticed them a bit too late but they will green up under ligths.
Androsace barbulata seedlings
For Aconitum dry stored seeds; some Aconitum species will not germinate after the seeds get too dry, and I am trying to see if/how GA3 can induce/improve their germination; read more and see images: Starting notes on Aconitum germination.
Conclusion: to use it or not to use it?
Keep in mind that GA3 is not a ‘miracle’ solution for all the seeds dormancy/germination related problems.
It is definitely an aid for seeds germination and we can have fun experimenting, but anyone can very well grow plants from seeds without the help of GA3.
Spring beauties I: Claytonia and Lindera
Plant portraits, Propagation, Wildflowers of North AmericaBesides Hepatica, quite a few other spring beauties are in flower right now.
Claytonia virginica
The one which literally bears this common name: Claytonia virginica, is a short lived ephemeral. After enchanting us with its cheerful flowers it will retreat in the ground for the rest of the season.
It certainly needs a long beauty sleep!
Others though, will remain and provide beauty, shade, shelter and food for the wildlife until late fall.
Among the first native shrubs to flower in our woodlands is Lindera benzoin, the Northern spicebush.
If hiking in the woods at this time (in the wetter sides) and notice a yellow tinge among the otherwise bare trees branches, then it is Lindera (reason why another common name is forsythia of the wilds). It usually grows as an understory small tree/large shrub on bottomland woodlands and river edges.
Lindera benzoin it is one of the first native shrubs/small tree to flower in the spring; it can be grown in a partly shaded location as a large specimen (by planting few plants together) or in small groups for larger woodland gardens
The yellow flowers which appear in small ‘bunches’ (female/males plants) are a sign of the long awaited spring and very useful to the early pollinators!
Lindera puts its best show in early fall when the foliage turns yellow; wonderful background for the shiny red, abundant fruits (female and male plants need to grow together). They provide food for countless birds but are always in great abundance and some will be left to be admired.
Lindera benzoin, September
Lindera benzoin, fall
The fleshy part of the fruits was/it is chopped and utilized as an allspice (hence the name). The foliage is also aromatic and the leaves and twigs were used to prepare a tea. Not least important, the Spicebush is a favourite larval host for the beautiful Spicebush swallowtail and Promethea silkmoth!
About fruits, seeds and germination:
The seeds are hydrophilic and need to be sown right after collecting or kept moist. After a period of cold/moist stratification they will germinate promptly in the spring (see the post: A late arrival – Lindera benzoin seedlings).
Lindera benzoin fruits & seeds
Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix explained
Propagation, Wildflowers of North AmericaLast spring I stumbled upon a most beautiful Hepatica acutiloba population I called pastel mix based on the fact that, on a relatively small area, many plants with various flower colours were growing together: white, light pink, pink striped and lilac/light-purple.
Because the specimens are mixed it would be almost impossible to collect seeds individually, and even so, would they come completely true from seeds? Maybe not. Reason why it was offered as the ‘pastel mix’.
Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix population
In the rush and excitement of the spring I only wrote a short post about it. I also forgot to mention that most of them are fragrant, especially those with pink & white flowers. There are also a few specimens showing a tendency to form multipetal flowers.
Quite a few people took advantage and purchased seeds (moist packed and at a good price too!) but still, some remained and germinated in the Ziploc bags by late winter. Excellent germination!
Hepatica acutiloba (H. americana too) most often appear growing in deciduous woods as localized populations. Sometimes you can walk for hours in frustration not to find one plant.
These grouped populations are most likely the result of the way seeds are dispersed by ants (not at long distances), and/or the fact that others will germinate falling close to the mother plants.
Rarely all the plants are of the same colour; also the foliage and flowers can be variable (width/numbers of the tepals, lobes length and shape).
This is good. It means genetic diversity and the fact that in successive generations more interesting forms are bound to appear.
So, don’t be shy to grow from seeds plants of this population. You may never know what you will see flowering 3-4 years later! Anything similar with these would be desirable (click to open the gallery):
Proof of the genetic variability – walking a bit further in the same area the other day, a specimen with light purple, star-like flowers showed up!
Hepatica acutiloba ‘Purple Star’ (it needed a name :)
Hepatica acutiloba page has been updated (see there another H. acutiloba that was in need of a name).
Double Friday’s seedlings – Calochortus leichtlinii
Propagation, Wildflowers of North AmericaNot many seedlings remain under lights indoors at this time; most were taken out for acclimation.
Calochortus leichtlinii was taken out from the fridge late and this are the seedlings after about 1 week under lights. I learned my lesson and sow it thin since it will grow in the same pot for 2 years.
Calochortus leichtlinii seedlings
As opposed to C. tolmiei, not all C. leichtlinii seeds will emerge radicles at cold, so just go ahead and sow the seeds after about 2 months of cold/moist stratification.
There will be more seeds towards the fall.
Watch out for: Corydalis, Hepatica, Jeffersonia….
Propagation, Wildflowers of North AmericaThere is an innate sync between species emergence/flowering and their seeds germination. For most spring flowering species the seeds start to germinate around the time the mature plants are flowering/ emerge from the ground.
It is almost sure to happen in case of a mother plant and its seeds sown in the same location: for example, when Corydalis solida starts flowering in my garden, at the same time the seeds are germinating; always.
Differences are more pronounced depending where (climate/location) and how the seeds were sowed.
Hepatica acutiloba- pastel mix seeds just starting to germinate
In any case, Hepatica seeds sown outdoors are also germinating (some forms), at the same time when the mother plants are starting, better said trying to flower.
It is impossible to sow all Hepatica forms offered in the shop, but I couldn’t abstain to sow the beautiful H. acutiloba – pastel mix found last spring.
(Hepatica americana and H. acutiloba – white are also germinated).
I also noticed young plants of Jeffersonia diphylla (3 years old) and Jeffersonia dubia (2 years old) starting to grow; the seeds should follow soon…
Jeffersonia diphylla 3 years old, planted in the ground
Jeffersonia dubia 2 years old
Conclusion: watch out for your sowings because many seeds should start to germinate soon (if not already): Asarum, Corydalis nobilis, Podophyllum, Claytonia, Stylophorum, Maianthemum, Caulophyllum (2+ years)…to mention just a few talking about the moist packed seeds!
Keep the sowings watered and don’t start digging into the pots looking for the seedlings – the emerging cotyledons are very delicate; be patient!
And of course a Happy Easter to all celebrating!
Friday’s seedlings – skunk cabbage
Propagation, Wildflowers of North AmericaSame of the readers may remember that last fall there was a little ‘accident’ with some of the skunk cabbage seeds: they have started to germinate unexpectedly in the moist vermiculite in October (without a cold period – Friday’s-germinated-seeds).
I was planning to return them to their muddy place but cold weather settled in very early, so they remained planted in a pot in the garage.
Symplocarpus foetidus emerging in early spring (in the dark, reason why a bit etiolated)
Spring came, and it is time to take them back to live with their parents. The roots are not too long yet and it’s just a matter of sticking them into the mud.
I can show on a picture from another year what’s the size of the seedlings roots right now.
They are not fast growers, that’s for sure!
Friday’s seedlings – this & that
Propagation, Wildflowers of North AmericaA bit of everything today from the indoors seedlings; the outdoors sowings usually start to germinate with the increase of temperatures in late April/May.
Just pricked out: Thermopsis villosa (syn. T. caroliniana, Carolina lupine).
I thought to give it a try this year with the hot water method. Super-easy, some seeds will even start to germinate in the water if you forget about them ;). Rarely seen in the gardens: why? A beautiful leguminous species with yellow lupine-like inflorescences.
The time has also come to prick out the Bukiniczia cabulica seedlings – this is the size when I’ll do it (about 1 month old).
Bukiniczia cabulica seedlings (seeds sown on March 1st)
Update on Erythronium grandiflorum: which is germinating under lights. The conditions are not ideal because it is a bit too warm and the seedlings start growing too fast and elongate (the sowings outdoors will grow better).
Erythronium grandiflorum seedlings (warm/cold cycles, seeds kept moist)
Until next, a picture with an unexpectedly green apparition in the garden, at a time when only few Crocus and snowdrops are flowering: Papaver bracteatum (seeds sown in the garden last summer). We’ll talk more about poppies and direct sowing in the ground soon.
Papaver bracteatum (April 3, 2019)
Warm or cold?
PropagationThis is the question….Delphinium nudicaule and Iris suaveolens B17Dob make an odd pair for a post but the germination info has to be updated for both.
Delphinium nudicaule: I wrongly assumed it would be a warm germinator last fall; sorry about this.
My little pot sat under the lights for a few weeks with no action. What to do now? There are two options:
Cold-moist stratification provided in the fridge
Usually I would do the first and let nature take its course but being a new species for the shop and without reliable info, I want to see precisely how much cold it needs. It went in the fridge as of April 1st (together with few other species).
If you go the ‘fridge way’ don’t forge to mark the date and to open the bag and check the pots periodically.
Iris suaveolens B17Dob (offered in the fall/winter of 2017)
With some Irises it is more complicated: many species won’t germinate simply because they have very hard seed coats. Cold/warm cycles will wear down the seed coat and allow the water imbibition and emergence of the radicle. But this doesn’t mean that the species ‘requires’ a cold period, i.e. has a physiological dormancy; often the lines are blurred.
Although I sowed my seeds in early fall (2017), they didn’t germinate in the spring of last year (2018). I don’t know if they will germinate this spring either. All I know is that the seeds are good (viable) and like in the case of many Iris species, it is the hard seed coat that delays the germination.
In late January I tried the ‘forced method’ recommended for aril irises on a small sample of Iris suaveolens B17Dob – not having experience, I destroyed most seeds but one I got right and it’s enough to prove the point: the seeds have a very hard tegument but otherwise it would be a warm germinator (probably like many others). You can open the link to read about this method: http://files.srgc.net/general/ForcedArilIrisGermination.pdf
Remains to see how long it will take for the seeds sown outdoors to germinate.
Conclusion: I emphasize again the advice that gets sent with all seeds orders: “keep your pots for at least 2(3) years”.
It can happen that even species known to germinate at warm or cold will decide not to do it. The collection site/region/mother-plant and few other factors can influence the patterns of the germination.
Friday’s seedlings – Aquilegia
Plant portraits, Propagation, Wildflowers of North AmericaEvery year I sow a few Aquilegia species indoors to give them a bit of extra growth time. New species, some to repeat, there are always plenty of seeds to choose from. It is always good to go back to basics.
1. Aquilegia canadensis – short form: I need a new one; last year I put the spade through it by mistake.
2. Aquilegia fragrans: time to see how a fragrant Aquilegia actually smells (old seeds from a seedex).
3. Aquilegia chaplinei: young plants have been devoured last year by the columbine sawfly, twice! This is a lovely dwarf version of A. chrysantha, with delicate bluish-green foliage and yellow flowers with extremely long spurs. I love long spurred Aquilegias!
4. Aquilegia vitalii: from few remaining old seeds; I have a young plant outdoors but who knows after this harsh winter…..
There are also a few A. scopulorum seedlings; I never seem to have enough plants to be able to offer seeds and it’s a pity (Alien vs. Predators).
Last year I grew A. alpina again and A. olympica so there should be a lot of new blues this summer. Not that I can complain, Aquilegia nigricans does a fine job in this regard.
Note: keep your eyes open for the columbine sawfly (Pristiphora rufipes) in late spring.
Last year I had the unfortunate occasion to discover that the larvae, which look like green caterpillars, can consume the entire foliage of one plant in a blink of an eye!
They are hard to notice being green but not difficult to pick up by hand if noticed on time (spraying with insecticidal soap should also work if necessary).
Also, do not believe there is only one generation/year like they say; it depends on the climate.
Contractile roots – a journey to the center of the earth?
Plant portraits, PropagationThe repotting of Chinese Podophyllums and Roscoea always brings to mind the contractile roots, and Jules Verne’s story ;) It is time to talk about them.
So, what’s with these contractile roots?
Many species from various families and growing in a whole range of habitats are equipped with such roots. By contracting they pull down the plant at the depth considered optimal by the species.
They particularly play a role in good plant anchorage. Also, for many bulbous/tuberous and rhizomatous species they adjust the depth of these organs in the ground where they will be protected from extreme temperatures/drought; another function is to protect the apical buds from being destroyed.
As soon as possible the Podophyllum shown below will be planted out; I felt sorry seeing the long contractile roots circled at the bottom of the container. I have to give it the freedom to go deep down in the ground.
Podophyllum delavayi (syn. Dysosma) grown in a large container – notice the contractile roots, most often they have a cord-like appearance and are unbranched. Imagine how much deeper they would have like to go if planted in the ground!
Roscoea cautleyoides – purple form
It is my opinion that these roots also have a practical implication in regards to planting.
Over the years I noticed that all the Arisaema sp. and Roscoea I planted in the ground in early summer did fine, even if some species are not considered truly hardy for the zone 5. I am sure this is because they had time to go deep down to their desired depth before the cold season started.
Planting too late means that the roots won’t have time to settle at the proper depth, with a possible negative outcome.
Many times we attribute the loss of plants to the fact that they are not hardy, or the drainage wasn’t good enough, and so on….
Conclusion: plant your Roscoea, Chinese Podophyllums and Arisaema species in the ground as soon as possible and no later than June I would say (in a cold, continental climate); if not possible, keep them in pots and wait until next year.
Also, do not grow them in pots longer than necessary, they like to go in exploration towards the center of the earth!
Another practical implication when growing these species from seeds: use taller pots, even the young seedlings like to have space for ‘deep’ exploration; it’s in their nature.
Few other Roscoea tubers pictures – the invasion of the Roscoea? :0
* All plants shown in the pictures have been grown from seeds.
You may also want to read – Hunker Down and Hold On: Contractile Roots Give Skunk Cabbage Another Special Trait.
Notes on Erythronium germination II
Propagation, Wildflowers of North AmericaAn update to the first notes on Erythronium germination from Feb. 9.
Erythronium grandiflorum seeds have started to germinate in moist storage (fridge) last week; they were kept moist through a warm, then cold cycle. I have another pot sown outdoors in late summer; a small sample of seeds was kept on purpose in the fridge to note the germination start.
Erythronium grandiflorum (Glacier lily) germination start (mid March, in the fridge)
And this is how the Erythronium americanum seedlings look right now (under indoor lights). Those who sowed the seeds outdoors should expect the seedlings in late March/April, depending on the weather (they will have a more natural look like in the featured image).
Erythronium americanum (Trout lily) seedlings March 2019 (germinated indoors reason why a bit elongated)
Spring must be coming! And, as usual, it will be fast and furious.
So, I will let you know now what will happen next with the Erythronium seedlings.
They will keep growing for a few months (water well, may use a diluted fertilizer). As some point, they’ll decide to go dormant. Don’t be scared, it is normal. When you notice the foliage starting to yellow, reduce the watering. Keep your pot in a shaded location (cover with a mesh to deter critters from digging, if this applies) and water only once in a while.
You can see in the plate how one year old tubers may look more or less, depending how well you grow them (mine were crowded in the pot).
I made this plate one year ago to show the similarity between the tubers and the seeds (size and shape wise). Interesting, isn’t it?
You can keep raising them in pots for a couple of more years and then plant them in the garden.
I personally plant them out after just one season in pot; nature can take its course after that. The only other Erythronium species I raised from fresh seeds, E. dens-canis, follows the same pattern.
That’s all I know to share about Erythronium germination for now. But there is so much more to learn about Erythronium and it’s easily done. Anyone can read and/or download Ian Young’s e-book: Erythroniums in Cultivation. Find it here: http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=15212.0
Notes on Erythronium germination I (from February 9, 2019)
Just a note for those who purchased Erythronium americanum seeds last year (that was a nice crop) – the seeds kept in moist storage at cold (fridge) are germinating! Luckily that I had to look for other moist packed seeds for an order.
Depending where you are, temperature wise, this may be happening in your pot right now! Exciting :)
Erythronium americanum germinating seeds Feb.9 2019
E. grandiflorum seeds are looking OK but no signs of germination yet, after all they were collected much later than E. americanum. I’ll keep you posted.
More sowing to do….
Quick note on Calochortus leichtlinii germination
Propagation, Wildflowers of North AmericaThe first seeds of Calochortus leichtlinii (moist/cold stratified in the fridge) are emerging the radicles.
I noticed them since last week with a magnifying glass and they are big enough now for a picture. I don’t know if they really have to be kept at cold until the radicles start growing but best to be sure (about 10 weeks of cold/moist stratification).
Calochortus leichtlinii seeds starting to germinate after 2.5 months of cold/moist stratification
Calochortus tolmiei seedlings are already above ‘ground’! (vermiculite in this case).
Calochortus tolmiei seedlings
Update on Calochortus tolmiei germination
Propagation, Wildflowers of North AmericaFor those who purchased seeds of Calochortus tolmiei, and are keeping them in moist storage (vermiculite or moist towel) – please don’t forget to check on them.
Seeds kept in moist/cold stratification (fridge) from Jan. 4 – showed roots on Feb. 26 (well maybe few days earlier). So, they need 7-8 weeks of cold/moist for roots emergence. After that they require a warm period to complete their germination.
Calochortus tolmiei germinating seeds; they can now be potted and kept at warm
Some sources indicate the necessity of 1 month of cold; we know now that the pattern of germination varies greatly depending on the collection site, garden versus wild collected, mother-plant status, and so on…
* Calochortus leichtlinii – the seeds were also placed in cold/moist stratification on Jan. 4, they are very swollen but no signs of radicles yet.
More updates to follow…
Mea culpa – Paeonia brownii germination
Plant portraits, Propagation, Wildflowers of North AmericaBefore the FAQ on pre-ordering, mea culpa for providing wrong advice regarding Paeonia brownii germination.
Seeds arrived at a very busy time last fall (not that this should be an excuse), and after a quick search I wrongly assumed they require a warm cycle for root protruding followed by a cold one for shoot growing, like many other peony species.
I also followed this line of thought and kept my seeds in moist storage at room temperature starting mid-October. By January I felt something was not right and at the beginning of February I put the Ziploc bag containing the seeds in the fridge. One month later few of them already show cracked teguments!
Paeonia brownii seeds after 1 month of cold-moist stratification (fridge)
Good information IS available on the subject if one looks well enough and uses some critical thinking. I am sure that an AI would have come with the right advice in a split second.
Paeonia brownii seeds require 2-3 months of cold/moist stratification in order to germinate.
Those who received seeds last year please click to read the pdf below; better even, download it for your files. It contains a plant profile for Paeonia brownii with everything you need to know. It mentions that the young roots are sensitive, so as soon as I’ll notice the roots growing I will take one more picture, plant them in pots in a well-drained mix, and continue to provide the remaining cold period as such.
There is much talk about AI writing these days; I even answered recently a short questionnaire for someone working in AI development, looking to better understand the problems of products/content writing process encountered by on-line businesses.
No doubt, the time will come when they will do all the work for us: faster and competently.
Until then, I shall be excused for continuing to make humanly mistakes.
Who knows, maybe in the future this will remain a ‘signature’ of our writings.
They will inherently contain, somewhere, somehow, an error.
A tiny mark of our beautifully flawed human nature.
FAQ – Moist packed seeds
Moist packed seeds, Wildflowers of North AmericaMany NA native species, especially spring flowering, are included in the ‘moist packed seeds‘ category (see also Corydalis & allies). By late spring this category is almost depleted of available seeds (with exception of Caulophyllum sometimes) because
the seeds not sold out during the fall/early winter season, will start to germinate in moist storage. You will find these species listed in green in the SEED LIST.
FAQ
Why are moist packed seeds not available year round?
Even if large quantities were to be collected, shipping past due germination dates would not be possible.
Depending on the species, it can happen as early as November (Paris quadrifolia and Asarum canadense) and December (Claytonia) and then gradually till February-March (most other species). In some cases ‘germination’ refers to roots only, with a another cycle of cold or warm/cold required for complete germination.
As soon as they are announced available in the Shop (please subscribe to the blog) or at any time before they start to germinate or temperatures drop below zero (in the winter), at which point they cannot be shipped safely.
To be on the sure side, I would consider June (for the first species available) and September/October/November ideal; these seeds are active physiologically and shipping them during deep freezes in the winter can be detrimental.
Various species with limited seeds on offer sell out fast (Claytonia, Hepatica forms) and it is best to buy them as soon as they are announced in the shop, starting in late May/June, (depending on the weather).
To facilitate a faster shipping (and easier sowing) the first such fresh seeds of the season are being shipped packed only in glassine envelopes. which are included in plastic bags (with no vermiculite). The method was tested and works very well for the month of June.
For this reason we usually have a ‘flash’ sale in June for Hepatica, Claytonia and Corydalis when you can purchase them slightly discounted. Hepatica seeds are sold in this manner ONLY for a short period after collecting.
For those new to the “moist packing” subject, these postings may answer other questions:
Moist packing – what’s that?
We got the moist packed seeds – now what?
Seeds collecting in February?
Propagation, Wildflowers of North AmericaYes, it is possible especially if you don’t pay good attention in late fall.
Somehow I didn’t notice the first fruit produced by Calycanthus until last Saturday! It flowered beautifully last spring and then a few green fruits were aborted during late summer. I thought that was it and didn’t pay attention afterwards.
A nice surprise; I received the young plant three years ago from a friend and it was very satisfying for both of us to see it fruitful :)
Calycanthus floridus (Carolina allspice) is an excellent native shrub which can be grown in many situations from sun to shade; fast growing with beautiful shiny foliage, it is rarely affected by any pests. Did I forget to mention the sweetly fragrant, burgundy flowers?
The fruit is an interesting large, brown capsule, which can be mistaken with a fallen leaf/small branch, and holds few large seeds. They are very easy to germinate (read about nicking) and show up with convoluted cotyledon leaves (a rare case).
Speaking NA natives, I put together a short list of other species which flower around the same time in mid April-May, and are suitable for cold climates. They all grow in the same bed with the Calycanthus. If only I would have more space….
T. cuneatum, T. luteum, Uvularia grandiflora, Mitella diphylla, Asarum canadense, Hepatica acutiloba, Trautvetteria caroliniensis
Trillium cuneatum
Trillium luteum
Mitella diphylla1
Asarum canadense
Uvularia grandiflora
Friday’s seeds with the GA3
Friday's Seed(s), PropagationI don’t aim to repeat here everything written about the gibberellic acid; most is easily accessible on the wide net. Anyone interested in plants knows that gibberellins are plant hormones which control various processes and the synthetic forms of the gibberellic acid are used in the horticultural industry for various purposes: from seed germination to inducing early flowering, fruit set, hybridization, and so on.
For those who never use it and/or are at the beginning of their growing from seeds journey, I will emphasize a few practical aspects about preparing and using a GA3 solution for home sowing by describing precisely what I do.
First, sources of GA3: google and you shall find :)
Every year there are various on-line offerings of powder GA3. I do not want to advertise for one source or another, just a warning: if something looks too cheap, it may not be the best quality.
How to use GA3
In powder form – many still employ this method although it is not as reliable as a prepared solution. Personally I don’t use the powder treatment; you cannot be sure of the concentration applied and if the seeds will absorb it equally.
Nevertheless, it’s easy to apply. One of the most common methods is to place the seeds on a moist folded piece of paper towel or a coffee filter and to add the GA3 (the amount taken on a toothpick tip). Place everything inside a plastic bag and keep it there until next day; then, sow the seeds right away.
Solution – if you want to be sure about the concentration, it is advisable to use it as a solution. The suitable concentrations to promote seed germination vary among different species, and there are still many species for which we don’t know if their germination would be better with GA3.
Many times you just need to experiment. I noticed from my experience and reading lots of articles on seed germination that good results can be obtained using concentrations from 250 ppm to 1000 ppm.
It is not difficult to prepare your own solution: best is to make a basic 1000 ppm solution and then use it as such or at lower concentrations by dilution.
How to prepare your basic 1000 ppm GA3 solution (assuming you have GA3 98% purity)
The basic stock solution of 1000 ppm (parts per million) is prepared by dissolving GA3 in water at a rate of 1mg (1000 mg= 1 g) in 1 ml (1000 ml= 1 l).
Therefore, if you buy one packet of 100 mg GA3, it will have to be dissolved in 100 ml of water to obtain a 1000 ppm solution; 200 mg in 200 ml and so on….
For home use I don’t think anyone needs more than 100 ml, so let’s do this:
Have handy: your powder GA3 100 mg, 100 ml distilled water (tap water OK too), little amount of alcohol (purest ethanol possible), and a clean 100 ml (or larger) bottle for the final solution. I use the water at room temperature.
Bottle with GA3 solution
Add the powder and maybe ¼ of the water, plus a few drops of alcohol in the bottle and start shaking well; be patient; add more of the water and keep shaking. If the GA3 doesn’t dissolve well, add a few more drops of alcohol; shaking, shaking….20(30) min. should do it.
If after all this the powder has not entirely dissolved it means the GA3 you bought had many impurities.
So you have your 1000 ppm solution.
Label your 1000 ppm GA3 bottle and keep it in the fridge. Don’t forget that this is a chemical substance after all, and it shouldn’t be kept in containers without a clear label. The solution remains active for at least 2 years, probably even longer, but of course its efficacy will decrease.
To prepare a 500 ppm solution, extract any given quantity from the 1000 ppm sol. and add the same quantity of water, all in a separate bottle (don’t forget to label it).
What to treat with GA3?
Think first about what kind of seeds you are sowing and which are their germination requirements.
GA3 is often used to replace the cold period required by various species for seeds germination (cold/moist stratification) and to speed up germination in general.
Therefore, if you live in a warm climate, you are running short of time, or want to speed up the process, you can use it for these purposes.
Warning: it does not always work; don’t be disappointed. For some species even very cold winters won’t do the trick to break seeds dormancy.
Also, sometimes, it is necessary to use a combination of treatments.
For those living in a climate with cold winters, it is much simpler and even better to sow and provide the cold/moist stratification outdoors over the winter.
For Aconitum spp. (and other Ranunculaceae species which have seeds with immature embryos), GA3 has been found useful to promoting embryo growth, so indirectly it will improve germination.
It also comes in handy when sowing older seeds, which may have a lower germination capacity.
There is no point to use GA3 for any kind of seeds. For example, in the case of species with very hard/impermeable seed coats (Fabaceae), using GA3 makes no difference because it cannot be absorbed.
Applying the treatment
Prepare a few small containers (bottle caps, small holders, yoghurt cups…), place your seeds inside and pour GA3 solution on top, just enough to cover the seeds. For larger size seeds, you can also use small plastic bags. I usually leave the seeds in solution until next day.
Important: have everything ready and sow the next day after the treatment; water the pots well, and place at warm or cold as required.
GA3 treatment and sowing the seeds afterwards; sow as usual, next day after treating the seeds
For tiny, fine seeds (Saxifraga for example) it’s more practical to place the seeds on a piece of paper towel, soak it with GA3 solution, fold the paper and keep it in a plastic bag until next day; before sowing, just squeeze the paper towel and then it will be easy to shake the seeds on top of the potting mix. Likewise, a pipette/syringe can be used to collect and distribute the small seeds on the mix.
Side effects: one common side effect is that the seedlings will grow elongated and weak, especially if the concentration was too strong and/or the
seed coats remain attached to the cotyledons (in this case cover the pot with a moist paper towel, and you can remove the seed coats after they get soft); Gentiana lutea seedlings after GA3 treatment.
What I am using it for?
I had my share of using GA3 just for fun, like many others probably. Right now I sometime use GA3:
On experimental purpose when reliable germination info is not available and for older seeds to test the germination capacity, especially for small size seeds.
On a more regular base for:
Glaucidium palmatum: there is a bit of controversy in this case and after I have germinated seeds for a few years and also heard other people’s experiences, it is fair to say that this is a species with combined morpho-physiological dormancy: from any given batch, some seeds will germinate at warm, some only after a cold period. I find that with a GA3 treatment I obtain a better germination at warm (but a few seeds will still germinate only next year after one more warm/cold period).
One can easily sow Glaucidium without GA3 in late fall/winter and provide cold/moist stratification; some seeds will germinate in the following spring, some in the second year.
Podophyllum hexandrum – for the Chinese mayapple, the treatment with GA3 will induce germination with the true leaves, thus speeding up the process; in the second image – seedlings obtained with GA3 treatment in the first summer.
Podophyllum hexandrum seeds -GA3
Podophyllum hexandrum seedlings GA3
Aquilegia species: only because I start my Aquilegia species indoors; I use 500 ppm GA3 to promote a good, uniform germination (but you can easily provide Aquilegia with cold/moist stratification and obtain good germination).
Sometimes for Gentiana species: some will germinate well when treated with 500- 1000 ppm GA3 (G. lutea, G. purpurea).
I also got good results for Rhodiola spp., few Thalictrum species (to speed up the germination), Androsace villosa (and subsp. of villosa).
Germinating right now after GA3 treatment and short term cold/dark – Androsace barbulata. I noticed them a bit too late but they will green up under ligths.
Androsace barbulata seedlings
For Aconitum dry stored seeds; some Aconitum species will not germinate after the seeds get too dry, and I am trying to see if/how GA3 can induce/improve their germination; read more and see images: Starting notes on Aconitum germination.
Conclusion: to use it or not to use it?
Keep in mind that GA3 is not a ‘miracle’ solution for all the seeds dormancy/germination related problems.
It is definitely an aid for seeds germination and we can have fun experimenting, but anyone can very well grow plants from seeds without the help of GA3.