We got the moist packed seeds – now what?

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Some have decided to buy moist packed seeds, and not only– many thanks to all!

I know that sowing in late fall/winter comes naturally for many people, but how about the summer/early fall sowing of moist packed seeds?
So, I will outline a few good practices; better to be safe than sorry :)

The received moist packed seeds need to be sown ASAP; keeping them for a couple of days at room temp after arriving is OK. The natural condition they are in right now is ‘warm’ cycle –  do NOT place them in the fridge!

Many of the early summer seeds/fruits collections have a ‘green’ appearance or elaiosomes. After a few weeks the seed coats mature turning brown-blackish and the elaiosomes dry out/shrivel.
So, yes, the seeds I packed yesterday, shown in the featured image, look OK; there is nothing wrong with them.

Being kept slightly moist, these seeds are more delicate (i.e., the seeds coats can be soft) so handle them gently; do not rub between fingers. Prepare a pot(s) with your usual sowing mix (mine is a mix made from Promix with a bit of 3 in one 1 or black soil added) and spread the whole content of the pack on the mix; there is no need to remove the vermiculite.
Cover with one more thin layer of the same mix, and if available top up with grit/vermiculite/small gravel – highly recommended for the summer sowings. Water thoroughly (meaning watering a few times or place the pot(s) in a shallow tray with water).

What to do with the pots? They only need to be watered at intervals, and you don’t want them in the way the whole summer; some may even germinate in the second spring from sowing (Hepatica, Sanguinaria).
Of course that everything here also applies for sowing dry seeds.

I know that not everyone has a dedicated area for sowings/seedlings, so here are few solutions:
1-5 species/pots
Include the pots in a plastic bag/large Ziploc for easy handling, to keep the moisture level even and avoid weeds. Not my favorite method, although I used it in the past for fall sowings. A SHADED position is a must! Don’t forget to open the bags to check moisture once in a while; moss may become a problem. Recently I keep all summer sowing pots in plastic boxes (in a shaded position) and it works better.

An easy method is to include few pots in a plastic bag and keep it in a shaded location (just an example, I don’t use it anymore)

My favourite is the ‘space saving method’ – bury the pots/or even larger containers in the ground (cover them with a mesh). I detailed this in the  Growing Jeffersonia from seeds post – please read more HERE.

A small, rectangle container (plastic or degradable) can be used for ‘community’ sowing, shown here already with grown seedlings (Maianthemum, Trillium… they were planted in the ground already).

You can go even further and place individual pots in a larger container (soil was added on the bottom of the container so the humidity level remains uniform); put your imagination to work!

Hepatica young seedlings, individual pots/large container – you can also use this method for sowing

A full tray of pots or more
You probably have a frame in this case :) but if not, choose one area somewhere in the shade (can be between other plants garden) where you can place the trays wrapped in a fine mesh.

Even better, if you have an available small spot around the backyard, make a simple wooden frame (you can also arrange flat rocks in a box-like shape) and place the pots inside with soil or sand underneath and in between; thus it is easy to cover them with a mesh and to keep the humidity constant during the summer months.
This is also good for keeping pots with summer dormant species like Corydalis, Claytonia and/or species that need more than one year to germinate.

Wood box-frame with dormant seedlings and new sowings

I realize that I forgot to mention the absolute most easiest method, which is: sowing the seeds ‘in situ’. It works wonderful for larger seeds like Caulophyllum, Uvularia but also feasible for Asarum, Sanguinaria and other species. Sow the seeds in the same location where you would plant them, water very well and cover with a mesh to deter the critters from digging them out. You have to pay particular attention to the sowing spot and water the seedlings during the first 1-2 seasons!

To end this long but hopefully useful post, keep in mind that the moist stored seeds are very fragile and, like all the other seeds, they are alive! Letting the pots dry out for an extended period during summer would surely result in no-germination next spring.

“When you think about it, seeds are improbable things. They don’t really seem alive, but of course they are, in a hidden kind of way….” – W. Cullina.

 

Arisaema show off

All these were raised from seeds and for some I’ve waited 4 years to flower; a little show off should be understandable  :)

I also have A. triphyllum seedlings but non-flowering this year; together with A. ciliatum and A. flavum, they are the easiest to grow species (in the ground) and very hardy; good for a cold climate.

Not your tiny violet – Viola canadensis

Beautiful and underused in gardens, as it often happens, Canada violet can grow to 1 ft. tall with a round, bushy look habit. Vey floriferous, it looks great in combination with other shade perennials. It prefers a moist location and a few hours of sun will make it remain compact; can be sheared after flowering.

Although listed as growing throughout Canada and most of the U.S, it is rather scarce in the wild and even listed as an endangered species in the Illinois (US).
There are 3 varieties of V. canadensis listed in Flora of North America – those interested can read more:
http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=1&taxon_id=250100903

Viola canadensis in cultivation

After a good flowering period, the capsules are starting to mature and I’ve collected the first seeds.
Viola spp. capsules display an explosive behavior, reason why collecting the seeds can be a frustrating endeavor, especially from the wild.
In the figures below you can see the way capsules signal the near (1-2 days) release of seeds.

Viola canadensis seeds maturation

The next stage that follows:

A bit too late ;)

Other Viola species can be monitored for seeds collecting in the same way.

Spring and fall

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Quite a few species that flowered in the spring are opening (or will do it shortly) their fruits to release the seeds.
The fall blooming Crocus species does the same thing. Interesting, isn’t it?

Many of these species are in the category I once called ‘notorious seeds defectors’ :-)
Hepatica, Corydalis & Pseudofumaria spp., Stylophorum spp., Helleborus, Asarum spp. (gingers), Saruma, Viola ssp., Epimediums, the recently added Dirca palustris and so on… (hover over pictures for the names)

Stay tuned…

Asclepias exaltata and other happenings

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A couple of days ago I found seeds of Asclepias exaltata germinated/overgrown within the moist towel I used for cold/moist stratification; reason why I don’t like to use this method too much (a great space saver though). When using moist vermiculite the roots have the possibility to grow in/attach and even feed a bit from the vermiculite.
 Of course it is my fault I didn’t keep a good eye on the seeds. I managed to gently extract a few of the seedlings and planted them right away.

Asclepias exaltata germinated seeds

Asclepias exaltata seedlings

I probably showed this woodland Asclepias before, but the milkweeds are never enough :) and this one is indeed scarce in my region (SW Ontario). For this reason, I always collect selectively only few seeds and there are never enough for sale.

I am trying to produce more for my native woodland corner to address the issue, plus, to keep the pollinators happy! They are easy to grow, my 3 years old plant (grown from seeds) will flower this year. Meanwhile for those that need a remainder, this is the Poke milkweed.

Asclepias exaltata, Poke milkweed, flowering usually in late June

Speaking of something else, Hydrophyllum virginianum has a nice show in the woods right now, and also in my garden. The bumblebees are happy. Also flowering, Conopholis americana while Viola pubescens capsules are getting closer to maturity.

Hydrophyllum virginianum

And, Erythronium americanum capsules have been collected; this is one of the best collections  I’ve done so far. The seeds will be available in the Seeds Shop next week.

Erythronium americanum capsules

Superb: Dianthus superbus ssp. sajanense

Change of plans; I wanted to write something about Aconitum germination/seedlings, then, wanted to announce the posting of the first seeds of the season, but how can I do anything else before showing this Dianthus superbus ssp. sajanense at peak flowering? Divine fragrance!

Dianthus superbus ssp. sajanense, flowering in the second year from seeds.

 

 

 

 

 

Out in the world

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At the same time Trillium grandiflorum is flowering in the woods, I planted my 3 years old seedlings in the garden (in bunches of 2-4 seedlings).

I don’t have enough space to keep seedlings growing in pots for more than 1 – 3 years (to the extreme). For some it is more than enough, others might like a bit of pampering, but it is what it is – they have to go out and face the ‘world’ :-) : T. erectum, M. stellatum, Allium tricoccum, Asarum canadense (1 year), Lilium canadense, and L. michiganense, Prosartes lanuginosa and probably few others.

Trillium grandiflorum 3 years old

Trillium grandiflorum 3 years old

Maianthemum stellatum, Asarum canadense (wild ginger) and Allium tricoccum (wild garlic) are very tough and I’m sure they’ll do well. For Lilium canadense and Lilium michiganense it will be an experiment to see how it goes if planted in the ground at an early age. Pictures taken before planting out:

Asarum canadense seedlings

Maianthemum stellatum seedlings

Allium tricoccum

Lilium canadense

One concession I make is having a dedicated spot with small plants where it is easier to keep an eye on them; but there are full grown perennials there as well. Most people have a bit of empty space between some larger perennial/shrubs and can do that.

Prosartes lanuginosa, yellow fairy bells, 2 years old – easy to germinate and grow from fresh/moist kept seeds

Growing native species from seeds for your garden and planting out the young seedlings follows well the natural rhythm of nature; from a pot full of seedlings, some will perish and the strongest will survive, perfectly adapted to your garden conditions.

On the feature image: Jeffersonia diphylla young seedlings planted in the ground last year.

 

Out in the woods – Trillium grandiflorum

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The time has come to admire again the Large white-flowered Trillium in all its forms and also few other woodland companions.

Although Trillium grandiflorum takes center stage at this time, it doesn’t grow by itself and I will show just a few species that were growing beside it in one particular area: Caulophyllum, Podophyllum peltatum (May apple), Maianthemum racemosum (False Solomon’s Seal), Uvularia grandiflora, Asarum canadense, Viola rostrata, Viola sororia. Others not shown here which associate in the wild/woodland gardens: Actaea species, Polygonatum pubescens, Thalictrum dioicum, Hepatica americana/acutiloba, Sanguinaria, Arisaema triphyllum, Viola pubescens and of course Trillium erectum.
Seeds of all are usually offered in the Seeds Shop by fall.

Caulophyllum and Trillium grandiflorum

Podophyllum peltatum

Maianthemum racemosum

Uvularia grandiflora

Viola rostrata

Viola sororia

 

Hydrastis canadensis – short note

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It seems it is good, if not even required, to document the growing of Hydrastis canadensis (golden seal) with the purpose of selling seeds/plants at some point in the future.
The overharvesting from the wild coupled with the destruction of its natural habitat lead to its inclusion in 1991 on the CITES Appendix II (Convention for International Trade on Endangered Species).

I already showed the seeds, the germination, and here they are the 2 years old plants at the transplanting stage. I expect they would start to grow faster now that they built a little rhizome.

Hydrastis canadensis, goldenseal – 2 years old plants

For those who don’t know about the goldenseal and its medicinal properties, here’s an excerpt from an older post that I will re-write entirely at some point.

“Native Americans introduced European settlers to the medicinal properties of quite a few medicinal plants, among them the Goldenseal – Hydrastis canadensis, which is native to SE Canada and NE United States. The Goldenseal grows in shady, moist woodlands locations. Other common names include: yellow root, eye root, ground raspberry, Indian dye and yellow puccoon. It is a small perennial with a knotty rhizome and deeply divided leaves with 5-7 lobes. The white flowers appear in the spring and are followed by inedible red fruits (raspberry-like) in the fall.

The Cherokee and other tribes used mainly the roots as an antiseptic for inflammation, as a general tonic, to improve appetite, to treat skin problems and as an eyewash for sore eyes. Also they produced from it a golden-yellow dye, hence the common name ‘Indian dye’.

The medicinal properties of the goldenseal are due mainly to two alkaloids (hydrastine and berberine) which have antimicrobial properties. In laboratory conditions berberine has been shown to be toxic to fungal cells and some types of cancer cells.”

Hydrastis canadensis – Köhler’s Medizinal Pflanzen

Out in the woods – Hepatica acutiloba

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Well, I tried recently to visit the population called  Hepatica acutiloba –pastel mix (please read: Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix explained).
Even on sunny days, if it is too cold, the Hepatica flowers don’t open entirely though. No worry, there are many pictures from previous years.

So, I recycle an older post with some added notes and we can review already posted pictures. As explained in the link above, this is a localized population of Hepatica acutiloba with flowers in various pastel colors: white, lilac and pink and leaves with long acuminate lobes, mostly marbled in the fall. They all grow close together and I cannot offer seeds from individual specimens, reason why they are listed as Hepatica acutiloba – pastel mix.

Besides Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix, a specimen with star shaped flowers and narrower leaf lobes was named Hepatica acutiloba ‘Purple Star’ (2019).
Since then I also grew some seedlings from it, and the good news is that they came true to the mother plant!

Hepatica acutiloba ‘Purple Star’

Hepatica acutiloba ex. ‘Purple Star’ seedlings

As I mentioned a few times already, Hepatica acutiloba is a bit easier from seeds than Hepatica americana, plus the seedlings grow and flower faster. I say it is a good beginner’s Hepatica to try.
Prepare your hiking shoes: Sanguinaria canadensis is flowering and Claytonia virginica, Erythronium grandiflorum and Trillium erectum are also starting to flower, depending on the location!

Purple beasties – Caulophyllum

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Spring is evolving fast here in Ontario; Hepatica, Sanguinaria canadensis and Claytonia are flowering in our woods. Also, in some places blackish/purple beasties are erupting from the leaf mulch and growing with the speed of light – I am talking about the blue cohosh, Caulophyllum shoots :)

I wrote few times about Caulophyllum (referring in general to both C. thalictroides and C. giganteum) and its seeds, which are hydrophyllic and slow to germinate.
In this post I would like to bring to your attention two things:
The seeds offered up to this year were collected from a mix population of C. thalictroides and C. giganteum. Later in the season they are indistinguishable. C. giganteum is more desirable because has a deeper purple colour, purple flowers, and it gets taller. Depending on the luck, some may obtain C. giganteum seedlings.

This year the seeds of C, giganteum will be offered separate, from a localized population.

Caulophyllum giganteum in early spring

Caulophyllum giganteum, the shoots are coming up with the flower buds which open right away after few sunny days

Then, about germination: the seedlings are also appearing in my garden, and I can show two easy methods to germinate/grow it, without keeping around pots for 2-3 years until the seeds germinate.

  1. Sow the seeds into a compostable container buried into the ground (close to a large perennial, shrub) where you will water once in a while; cover with a mesh to discourage critters. A layer of leaves mulch can also be used in late fall, to mimic the natural environment.

Caulophyllum seeds sown in compostable container, which can remain in place

Caulophyllum seedlings, a bit hard to notice because of the colour

2. Sow the large seeds directly into the garden, also close to a large perennial or shrub, where you know the soil won’t be disturbed. In my picture the seedlings are growing now among Polygonatum buds.

Caulophyllum seedlings obtained by direct sowing in the ground

In a couple of years they can be dug up and planted at the desired place.

Stay tuned – Hepatica acutiloba and H. americana are in full flowering mode :)

The waterleafs – to each its place

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Hydrophyllum virginianum and Hydrophyllum canadense

Among the Crocuses, reticulate Irises, Corydalis and Hepatica in my garden, the young foliage of the waterleafs also appeared last week: H. virginianum (Virginia waterleaf) and H. canadense (Blunt-leaved waterleaf, maple leaf waterleaf).

It makes sense because these species are among the first to carpet the forest floor in eastern North America before the trees leaf out. The foliage in early spring is very attractive with white/silver spots, hence the common name; it will later turn to green.

Hydrophyllum virginianum – early spring foliage

Hydrophyllum canadense

For H. virginianum, soon after the foliage turns green, the helicoidal inflorescences with ciliate calyces start unfolding to reveal the bell shaped flowers with exerted stamens in a wide range of colours from deep lavender to white. Hydrophyllum canadense flowers later and the white flowers remain hidden under the foliage; a pity, they are so pretty!

Hydrophyllum virginianum

Hydrophyllum canadense flowers

Equally important to their attractiveness, the waterleafs are considered as plants with ‘Special value to Native bees’ by pollination ecologists because they attract a large number of native bees. In my forest walks I rarely see a H. virginianum which is not foraged by the bumble bees.

They also have been used as medicinal plants and the young leaves/shoots are edible (other common name for H. virginianum = Shawnee salad)

H. virginianum grows in part-shade/shade deciduous forests; Hydrophyllum canadense is more common in flood plains forests and along streams.
Both spread by rhizomes and will form colonies; reason why some call them ‘weedy’. In any case, under dry shade you don’t need to worry for H. virginianum.
On the other hand, if a low maintenance ground cover is desired, in proper conditions they can do the job. Actually the ‘weedy’ H. canadense is listed as extremely rare or threatened in few US states.

To each its place….

Let me ask you a question now– with all the buzz and fuss about the pollinator plants, in how many gardens have you seen waterleafs cultivated ?

For Hydrophyllum spp. germination info please read: Lost in translation
The fruits mature gradually and split up when ripen; they are not among the easiest seeds to collect.

 

Glaucidium palmatum – experimenting on germination

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Opinions seem to differ about the germination of Japanese woodland poppy; of course the time of seed maturation and provenience/origin, age of the seeds, can all lead to different results.
A little while ago, someone asked a question about this and then a discussion started on the Scottish Rock Garden Forum. This being a highly desired and expensive plant, I decided to repeat sowing seeds using GA3/1000 ppm, just like I did a few years ago in order to have a final idea about what’s happening.

Glaucidium palmatum and G. palmatum ‘Album’ (syn. var. leucanthum)
15 seeds of each/2017 season, collected in SW Ontario.
Treatment with GA3 1000 ppm/sowing next day March 23th.
Pictures taken April 18, 19th
*I only had a few seeds from 2016, and not the very best, so I could not look at the potential effect of their age. Last time I had also sown older seeds and they did fine overall but I cannot provide the % of germination.

The following pictures are of Glaucidium palmatum. Glaucidium palmatum ‘Album’ is starting a bit late, only 3 seedlings can be seen at this time. I did enough damage for now, patience…
I had to take pictures fast but they are good enough for our purpose of counting the germinated seeds:

I removed some of the potting mix and we can count 10 seedlings

plus 3 good that fell off here (I broke one root, sorry), plus some leftover seed teguments – probably 2 seeds were empty

All in all – 13 seedlings from 15 sown (2 unaccounted for).

I went further with the experiment (the pot was too small anyway) and took out all the seedlings, recounted and replanted them, 3/pot. It is the first time I transplant such young Glaucidium seedlings and it will be interesting to see how it goes.

Some of the seedlings may produce a first true leaf (I will update this post later) but most will remain at the cotyledon leaves stage.
Don’t worry when at some point the cotyledons start withering, keep the pots in a part-shaded location and water once in a while. Next spring they will emerge with the true leaf!
For better understanding, here are few older images, with seeds sown/GA3 treated, a few years ago.

Glaucidium palmatum seedlings going dormant for the remaining of the season

Glaucidium palmatum – the same seedlings, emerged early next spring, and I grew them under lights for a while

Following other people’s experience, a good alternative to using GA3 is:
– sow in late fall/winter and provide cold outdoors; some seedlings will emerge in the spring, some in the second  year after sowing.

*Others report warm germination with freshly collected seeds sown in early summer. In my opinion this is not time feasible in the Northern Hemisphere because the seeds mature late; by the time you buy the seeds or receive them from seed exchanges, it will be late fall/winter or even early spring. Those who can procure seeds early in the season can give it a try.

 

Hepatica pictures gallery

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A perfect day to think about the blooms to come!
Click on the picture to enter the gallery.

Hepatica: pollination, seeds & germination

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One more section added to the Hepatica page; click on the picture or visit the main page.

One more to go…Let’s hope the ice storm goes easy on us and we can relax with the pictures gallery on the weekend.

Update on Jeffersonia diphylla germination

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Short update on Jeffersonia diphylla germination.
I kept a small batch of seeds in the fridge to see if they will start to germinate at cold; some species do it,  others not.

Those who bought seeds should see the first seedlings appearing somewhere in May :)

 Jeffersonia diphylla – germination start in early April at cold; seeds kept moist at all times, warm, then cold (fridge)