Happy New Year to all again! As the saying goes: out with the old and in with the new, which also means making order in various aspects of one’s life. Website wise, besides deleting older posts with no real significance long term, more important pieces are brought together and pinned on the Germination page.
The cold (moist) stratification as a germination treatment was mentioned many times when talking about germinating various species and how to store your sowing and seedlings over the winter. However, I think one more detailed, only seeds-related post is needed.
First, briefly about seeds dormancy, mostly for those new to germinating seeds. We cannot talk about cold (moist) stratification without a few notes on dormancy.

Easy germination of various non-dormant seeds (species)
As we know, many annuals, and also various perennials, will germinate easily in proper conditions related to light, temperature and humidity. These are non-dormant seeds and we wish all were like this! Examples would fill a whole page: Silene spp., most Dianthus, Bukiniczia, Erinus,some Campanula ssp., Papaver…
On the other hand, in the same conditions, many other seeds stubbornly refuse to germinate; sometimes even after being ‘attacked’ with various so called germination treatments. This is because of the so called seeds dormancy, which we courageously attempt to ‘break’.
The seeds dormancy is commonly described as possible to be: physical, physiological in various levels, morphological and morphophysiological. Gradients between types of dormancy are possible. Many times the seeds may in fact have a combination of these: for example physical + physiological dormancy.
Without going into details (AI can help with that), the physiological dormancy is found in seeds of many species including many perennial plants, also shrubs and trees, and most often it can be broken by the use of a cold (moist) stratification period. It can be: non deep, intermediate and deep, and I found the naming self-explanatory. We can understand why some species will germinate after 1 week of cold (moist) stratification and others after 4 months (those with deep physiological dormancy). One example: Lewisia rediviva with germination after a +/- 1 month of cold stratification and Lindera bezoin with germination after 3+ months. I won’t go into details about the others, will give examples in part 2.
Something else to note is that in some cases even non-dormant seeds can become dormant due to environmental conditions; also dormant seeds can enter a second-dormancy making it even more difficult to ‘break them’.

Hepatica japonica 1 and 2 years old seedlings
Another useful bit: in a given lot of seeds, not all need to have the same type of dormancy. For example, part of the seeds can have physiological, while another part can have morphophysiological dormancy.
In translation – not all seeds will always break dormancy and germinate at the same time (examples: Glaucidium palmatum, Sanguinaria canadensis, Hepatica…).
Back to the cold (moist) stratification which is most commonly required for breaking seeds dormancy in many species, be it as a single treatment or in combination with a warm (moist) stratification (multiple cycles may be required), or in combination with other treatments.
Once upon a time, before we had a million studies about seeds dormancy and its classifications, people would sow seeds in the fall and in most cases they would germinate in some percentage in the spring. In translation – the seeds were applied a natural cold (moist) stratification during the winter.
In nature, most often seeds/fruits fall on the ground when they mature, which can happen from early summer to late fall. The ecological approach to seeds germination always takes this into account.
For example, eeeds maturing in early summer will naturally undergo a warm stratification before the fall arrives and the cold stratification starts, so it makes sense to treat those seeds in the same way when we collect and sow them. If we collect and store them under improper conditions in our home until sowing in the fall, is not the same. It should be no wonder that they react differently and maybe will not germinate in the spring. Examples: Corydalis species, also Erythroniums and other early spring flowering species.
Unfortunately, many studies on seeds germination do not follow an ecological approach. Hence, the contradictory germination results for various species. The same applies for some germination experiments done by gardeners.
Another useful info I would like to share on the subject is that after seeds dormancy was broken, different conditions may be required (for some seeds) to stimulate the germination.
I’ve read it long time ago, but it has taken time for me to really understand the concept. I noticed that some seeds (species) kept in the fridge (vermiculite or moist paper towels) will start growing roots after a while (usually toward the spring) while others not, germinating only after they were taken out the fridge.
Translation 1 – the conditions suitable for dormancy break and germination may or may not be the same, depending on the species.
Translation 2: maybe the seeds are not dormant anymore, but they won’t germinate due to unfavourable conditions.
The general idea I am trying to convey is that some of those little grains we are trying to ‘break’ out of dormancy, may have many reasons for refusing to germinate. There are still many unknowns related to the dormancy and germination, plus there are many differences between the many plant species!

Smilax tamnoides seeds, dormant – keep quiet :)
Something to meditate on until part 2 is ready:
“The dormant-seed stage in the life cycle of many plant species should be visualized as a period of time when things are happening in the seed, e.g., physiological/biochemical and morphological/anatomical changes, growth of the embryo, mobilization of food reserves and certainly activation and deactivation of genes.” (Baskin & Baskin, 2014)
Next in part 2 – we’ll get back to the practical approaches for providing the cold (moist) stratification for seeds (boxes, snow and all that…).
Cold stratification – part 2, FAQ
PropagationThe post prepared for today was too long (not again! I hear) so here’s just half of it. A FAQ and few interesting facts about snow insulation.
FAQ
First, which are the plant species that require this treatment in order to germinate well? Many of them, too many to list them here. There is data available for many of the cultivated species. In our seeds offerings these species have the germination info saying: sow in late fall/early winter or, cold-moist stratification required.
How long the cold stratification has to be?
Theoretically, the length of the required cold period can vary from a couple of weeks to a few months (see the last post). In some cases, it is impossible to tell the exact length period because it depends on the type of dormancy, the temperature applied and other factors.
How cold it has to be for the cold stratification to be effective?
break and only some species (best known those from fam. Ranunculaceae, various Gentiana. probably other species as well) will actually require below 0C stratification.
It has been proven that for many species regular fridge temperature around 0-4C is OK for the dormancy
However, not all species I’ve tried in the fridge reacted to the treatment. Not only the temperature matters, but also how it is applied. In nature, the temperatures vary during the winter months, and also from day to night. We cannot ‘reproduce’ this in our home fridge and this may be the reason why not all the species react well to stratification in the fridge.
How low is too low, temperature wise?
This question has preoccupied my for quite a while because I usually sown and keep all my pots outdoors. I still do not know the answer; probably no one has gone into this level of details.
In any case, keeping in mind that these seeds are imbibed in water, and in part some physiological processes are already happening inside the seeds, we can assume that for example a range of: -10C, -15C would be too low.
Do we really need snow?
It depends on the stratification method and your location in regards with the winter minimum temperatures. Probably gardeners on the west coast do not need to worry about snow. The insulating benefits of snow are well-known, especially the fluffy kind of snow because the air that is trapped in between the flakes.
Doing a quick search AI kindly informs us that:
“Snow acts as a natural insulator, like a blanket, because its intricate crystals trap a large amount of air (90-95%), which slows heat transfer from the soil to the cold atmosphere, protecting plant roots and soil life from extreme temperature fluctuations and winds. The effectiveness depends on snow quality: fresh, fluffy snow is a great insulator, while hard, compacted snow is a poor one”.
There is also good info on various aspect like:
Depth thresholds: For significant insulation, a certain thickness is required. Measurable warming effects typically begin at 25–30 cm of snowpack. Research in 2026 suggests site-specific thresholds for ground stabilization can be as low as 4–7 cm in alpine regions.
Allium thunbergii ‘Ozawa’, Jan. 15, 2026
Albedo effect: Snow’s high reflectivity (albedo) reflects 80–90% of sunlight back into space, keeping the surface cool during the day.
Average conditions: In moderate winter climates, 10 cm of snow can maintain ground surface temperatures up to 9°C higher than bare ground.
Extreme cold: Studies show that while air temperatures might drop drastically (e.g., to -15°C), the soil under just 10 cm of snow often stays near or slightly below freezing (0°C to -5°C), creating a difference of 10°C or more.
Apparently, 10 cm of snow has an R-value of approximately R-4 (roughly R-1 per inch; comparable to the insulating value of a layer of wood or a thin layer of fiberglass insulation).
We do not always have winters so cold like this one and we are lucky to also have copious amounts of snow, just like last year. So, even if the low was -14C in our area yesterday, with the +/-30 cm of snow the temperature at ground level should have remained decent!
Apparently, even 10 cm of snow are enough to do that.
It explains why the frozen pots I always find in very early spring, either buried in the ground or in the cold frame (while I had it), were not negatively affected germination and/or seedlings growth wise.
Cold stratification, Corydalis 2019
Hepatica nobilis frozen seedlings in the cold frame
Corydalis malkensis, always the first to appear in early spring; frozen ground.
It also explains the buds apparition of the very early flowering species seemingly from the frozen ground in late February or early March, depending on the snow melt: the snowdrops, various Corydalis, Cyclamen coum, Eranthis, some peonies buds and even Helleborus.
In between the snowfalls, temporarily thaws are happening; we just had one last week. The snow melts in some degree and sheets of ice are forming. They are not good insulators and also the weight can be considerable (especially on top of pots above ground). But do not worry, over the years I noticed that there will be no damage.
Above ground container with Sarracenia purpurea two days ago and today. Drosera seeds were also sown in it in late fall – the easiest method of providing cold-moist stratification for seeds :)
Next in Part 3 – cold stratification, the practicals
Cold stratification: part 1, dormancy
PropagationHappy New Year to all again! As the saying goes: out with the old and in with the new, which also means making order in various aspects of one’s life. Website wise, besides deleting older posts with no real significance long term, more important pieces are brought together and pinned on the Germination page.
The cold (moist) stratification as a germination treatment was mentioned many times when talking about germinating various species and how to store your sowing and seedlings over the winter. However, I think one more detailed, only seeds-related post is needed.
First, briefly about seeds dormancy, mostly for those new to germinating seeds. We cannot talk about cold (moist) stratification without a few notes on dormancy.
Easy germination of various non-dormant seeds (species)
As we know, many annuals, and also various perennials, will germinate easily in proper conditions related to light, temperature and humidity. These are non-dormant seeds and we wish all were like this! Examples would fill a whole page: Silene spp., most Dianthus, Bukiniczia, Erinus,some Campanula ssp., Papaver…
On the other hand, in the same conditions, many other seeds stubbornly refuse to germinate; sometimes even after being ‘attacked’ with various so called germination treatments. This is because of the so called seeds dormancy, which we courageously attempt to ‘break’.
The seeds dormancy is commonly described as possible to be: physical, physiological in various levels, morphological and morphophysiological. Gradients between types of dormancy are possible. Many times the seeds may in fact have a combination of these: for example physical + physiological dormancy.
Without going into details (AI can help with that), the physiological dormancy is found in seeds of many species including many perennial plants, also shrubs and trees, and most often it can be broken by the use of a cold (moist) stratification period. It can be: non deep, intermediate and deep, and I found the naming self-explanatory. We can understand why some species will germinate after 1 week of cold (moist) stratification and others after 4 months (those with deep physiological dormancy). One example: Lewisia rediviva with germination after a +/- 1 month of cold stratification and Lindera bezoin with germination after 3+ months. I won’t go into details about the others, will give examples in part 2.
Something else to note is that in some cases even non-dormant seeds can become dormant due to environmental conditions; also dormant seeds can enter a second-dormancy making it even more difficult to ‘break them’.
Hepatica japonica 1 and 2 years old seedlings
Another useful bit: in a given lot of seeds, not all need to have the same type of dormancy. For example, part of the seeds can have physiological, while another part can have morphophysiological dormancy.
In translation – not all seeds will always break dormancy and germinate at the same time (examples: Glaucidium palmatum, Sanguinaria canadensis, Hepatica…).
Back to the cold (moist) stratification which is most commonly required for breaking seeds dormancy in many species, be it as a single treatment or in combination with a warm (moist) stratification (multiple cycles may be required), or in combination with other treatments.
Once upon a time, before we had a million studies about seeds dormancy and its classifications, people would sow seeds in the fall and in most cases they would germinate in some percentage in the spring. In translation – the seeds were applied a natural cold (moist) stratification during the winter.
In nature, most often seeds/fruits fall on the ground when they mature, which can happen from early summer to late fall. The ecological approach to seeds germination always takes this into account.
For example, eeeds maturing in early summer will naturally undergo a warm stratification before the fall arrives and the cold stratification starts, so it makes sense to treat those seeds in the same way when we collect and sow them. If we collect and store them under improper conditions in our home until sowing in the fall, is not the same. It should be no wonder that they react differently and maybe will not germinate in the spring. Examples: Corydalis species, also Erythroniums and other early spring flowering species.
Unfortunately, many studies on seeds germination do not follow an ecological approach. Hence, the contradictory germination results for various species. The same applies for some germination experiments done by gardeners.
Another useful info I would like to share on the subject is that after seeds dormancy was broken, different conditions may be required (for some seeds) to stimulate the germination.
I’ve read it long time ago, but it has taken time for me to really understand the concept. I noticed that some seeds (species) kept in the fridge (vermiculite or moist paper towels) will start growing roots after a while (usually toward the spring) while others not, germinating only after they were taken out the fridge.
Translation 1 – the conditions suitable for dormancy break and germination may or may not be the same, depending on the species.
Translation 2: maybe the seeds are not dormant anymore, but they won’t germinate due to unfavourable conditions.
The general idea I am trying to convey is that some of those little grains we are trying to ‘break’ out of dormancy, may have many reasons for refusing to germinate. There are still many unknowns related to the dormancy and germination, plus there are many differences between the many plant species!
Smilax tamnoides seeds, dormant – keep quiet :)
Something to meditate on until part 2 is ready:
“The dormant-seed stage in the life cycle of many plant species should be visualized as a period of time when things are happening in the seed, e.g., physiological/biochemical and morphological/anatomical changes, growth of the embryo, mobilization of food reserves and certainly activation and deactivation of genes.” (Baskin & Baskin, 2014)
Next in part 2 – we’ll get back to the practical approaches for providing the cold (moist) stratification for seeds (boxes, snow and all that…).
Happy cold-moist stratification!
PropagationHappy New Year to all! Good health, happiness, good germination, beautiful plants and gardens in 2026!
We all hope for a better year and there is nothing more hopeful than sowing seeds and waiting for their germination in the spring!
Using a plastic box is not mandatory, but it will just prevent critters scratching the pots during the snowless periods and in the early spring (a mesh fixed on top works the same).
I continue to use the term ‘cold-moist stratification’ to make the process clear and because I noticed that some people use it with a wrong meaning: “stratification” per se implies a moist medium. Keeping dry seeds in the fridge do not equal stratification.
For many seeds (species) that’s all they need to germinate properly: 2-3 months of cold (moist) stratification, preferably with variations in temperatures throughout the cycle.
Not all the species need it to be as cold as it is right now, but certainly those from the Ranunculaceae family are having a blast this winter!
*What happens if species that are actually warm germinators are sown in the fall/winter? Nothing bad, good seeds (attention to most species from fam. Asteraceae) should germinate in late spring with the raise of temperature (with the exceptions of the ‘two-stage’ germinators that first require a warm cycle followed by a cold one in order to germinate – those I keep advocating to be sown in July-August at the latest).
Short review April 2025
PropagationContinuing the review, at the beginning of April, spring was still slow to start; the Corydalis were trying to join the snowdrops without much success. Another very early
spring flowering, Physochlaina orientalis, boosted by the snowmelt, was waiting for the first pollinators.
Then, like it often happens in this area, a sudden rise of temperatures in mid April resulted in the overlapping flowering of many spring wildflowers: Corydalis, Hepatica, Helleborus, Jeffersonia dubia, Draba and Primula species, Pulsatilla….
Corydalis in their many forms and colors were showcased many times in the past, but ‘new’ for this year was a beautiful patch of Corydalis malkensis mixed with Corydalis solida purple, due to my unintentional replanting: a nice mix for our Corydalis ‘Wildheart mix’!
Their ‘relative’, Dicentra cucullaria (a cultivated form), had an exceptional good flowering this year. The white form of Jeffersonia dubia flowered for the first time, reason why I selected it for this article’s cover image.
Erythronium albidum tried to flower more than its usual, Primula glaucescens usually struggling with the not-moist enough location flowered timidly while Fritillaria collina not only flowered well, also produced seeds for the first time later in the year. From the many nice seedlings obtained from the Helleborus ‘Cherry Blossom’ it is enough to show only one :)
Physochlaina orientalis, April 2025
Pulsatilla styriaca pink, 2025
Primula mistassinica, 2025
Paeonia ex. wendelboi, 2025
Primula glaucescens
Erythronium albidum, 2025
Helleborus ‘Cherry Blossom’ seedling 2025
Corydalis ‘WM’ 2025
Hepatica americana #2, 2025
Besides plenty of snow melt, there was also rain in April, and most importantly, no late frosts coming into May! Not too many sunny days, but otherwise it was a very good start of the ‘real’ spring.
Early spring 2025 review
PropagationGalanthus elwesii and Helleborus x hybridus flowers buds in the background
Believe it or not, the year’s end is fast approaching. Looking back at the gardening season is always a reason of joy, sprinkled with little disappointments for things that didn’t go as expected. We learn and move forward!
As I said in a previous early spring review (2022), keeping pictures-records of your garden can serve many purposes besides showing off on social media.
Use them to: compare the emergence of species over the years, decide planting/transplanting locations for various species, understand which of the species are the most resilient and useful to add/propagate more for an early spring show. Every June, I gather all snowdrops capsules and carefully sow the seeds in pots or directly in the garden.
Pictures taken in the spring of 2025, show a very late start of the season, with the snow lingering late into March in parts of Ontario. In this context, all very early bloomers are always a blessing for our winter frozen souls.
Just a few images from March 2025, to better illustrate what species you should grow for early ‘signs of life’ and flowers in a similar climate. The first red shoots of various Paeonia peeking through the ground are equally valuable for me like the blooming snowdrops (Galanthus), Crocuses, winter aconites (Eranthis) and Iris reticulata (‘Katharine Hodgkin’ remains the more reliable). And what’s the very fresh looking rosette right from under the snow? A Capnoides sempervirens 😊
Paeonia mlokosewitchii, March17 2025
Eranthis, March 2025
Crocus March 17, 2025
Iris ‘Katharine Hodgkin’ 2025
Helleborus purpurascens, 2025
Capnoides sempervirens March, 2025
Perennial cold hardy Adonis species are a big bonus. The first Adonis amurensis raised from seeds has timidly bloomed this spring, keeping company to Adonis ramosa. If you manage to add them in your garden do not hesitate; it is worth waiting for them to grow up. The same goes for the tiny Cyclamen coum.
Adonis ramosa, March 27
Adonis amurensis, March 27, 2025
Cyclamen coum March 17, 2025
*This is still an excellent time to sow various species for cold/moist stratification, keep the pots in the house a bit and then bury them under the snow!
My latest sowings: Viola rostrata (in order to have more seeds we need more plants!) and Clematis alpina ssp. sibirica (wild collected seeds are precious).
Winter ready
PropagationWe are all now preparing our gardens, sowings and seedlings for the winter. I already provided a few easy solutions for storing various pots in a previous post, available on the Germination page: How to prepare your sowings and potted seedlings for the winter.
I just took few more pictures while arranging my pots with seedlings, sowings and leftover potted plants in the past days. I do not longer use a cold frame, so back to the basics: ‘planting’ the pots in the ground and/or bunching them together and later cover with a fleece/tarp. It is the best, easy method to provide the cold/moist stratification required by various species. Easy-peasy, everyone has some space in the garden between perennials and shrubs that can be used this way: sown this fall Diphylleia, Daphne mezereum and few others (species that require cold/moist stratification), pots with Hepatica and Helleborus seedlings, young, potted Thalictrum petaloideum planted for the winter.
Sowings for cold/moist stratification: Diphylleia, Daphne…
Helleborus seedlings, Hepatica
Thalictrum petaloideum
New for this fall, I am using a tall container that was filled with annuals during the season, to ‘plant’ some old and new sowings little pots. While cleaning away the petunias and others, the large empty space was begging for few pots to be buried in it. Being above the ground I don’t know how it will work but worth to give it a try .
We’ll see how it goes.
Friday’s seeds special mix
PropagationA mix bag of seeds for today. After the first snow, usually we start thinking about the stocking stuffers. These are all seeds from garden grown plants, in limited quantities, that were just added in the inventory. Maybe you will find something special for you and your gardening friends 😊in our SEED LIST.
Something for the Gentiana lovers:
Gentiana paradoxa – flowering by itself this year, so the seedlings will be true to species: Marvellous Gentiana
Plus, Swertia perennis which got a great start in late spring before the drought arrived, so
the seeds are very limited.
Gentiana paradoxa 2023
Swertia perennis
Something for those looking after really interesting rockery plants (show them to your buddies or on social media kind):
I took advantage of the bad weather and sorted out through the Bukiniczia cabulica ‘fruits’.
We discussed about Bukiniczia ‘seeds’ a few times. A very easy to germinate biennial plant, IF the seeds are good.
Physoplexis comosa – new to our SEED LIST, where you can also find other special plants.
A plant portrait and more details about this interesting rock garden species on the product page.
Bukiniczia cabulica
Physoplexis comosa 2025
For those looking to extend their fall flowering season:
Lomelosia olgae ; we already talked about it here: Friday’s seeds and a plant portrait
For the wild orchids aficionados (micropropagation ‘in vitro’):
Cypripedium acaule, the Mocassin flower.
Lomelosia olgae, October
Cypripedium acaule
Reminder:
*The priority at this time is to first sow all species that require a cold/moist stratification and organize a place for the pots outdoors.
** There are still some moist packed seeds left in the inventory, do not wait for much longer; the shipping window is getting smaller by the day!
Friday’s seed with Water arum
Plant portraits, PropagationMucilage enclosing the seeds of Calla palustris
The abundance of red fruits of the Water arum, Calla palustris, draw my attention the past weekend while looking for (and not finding) skunk cabbage fruits.
Although the last, bad experience of extracting the seeds from the Water arum berries was still vivid in my mind, I took a couple of them.
The fruits are clusters of red berries; each berry contains a few seeds, enclosed in a mucilage, which is almost impossible to get rid off. The seeds are best extracted by squeezing the end of the berry; even so, the ‘blobs’ of mucilage seem to have a long life of their own :O
The Water arum is a very hardy and reliable flowering species for any wet areas in cold climates, easily growing and forming colonies in still, shallow waters like ponds, streams edges; it can also be cultivated in large water-containers.
Like other members from the Araceae family, the ‘flowers’ are formed from a showy white spathe surrounding a cylindrical spadix bearing the greenish-white, small real flowers.
Calla palustris
Calla palustris
Calla palustris fruits
I will not repeat the experience too soon, so those with proper garden conditions do not miss this opportunity. Very important, the seeds need to be kept moist packed!
Other native species added to the inventory:
Aruncus dioicus – new
Asclepias exaltata
Latest for October
Wildflowers of North AmericaCeanothus americanus in bloom
The latest seeds collected and added/replenished in the inventory belong to the following native species:
Ceanothus americanus, New jersey tea
Desmodium nudiflorum, Naked flowered tick-trefoil
Euonymus obovatus, Running strawberry-bush and
Smilax herbacea, Herbaceous carrion flower
These are all drought resistant species and are good options for those looking to add new native species to their easy-maintenance shade garden.
The New Jersey tea in particular, is an extremely adaptable small size shrub, growing very well in poor soils, with white, fragrant, pollinator friendly flowers. You can also grab a few leaves from the garden when you run out of tea!
Add the strawberry-bush as a ground cover around it and you are done for a really simple, maintenance free plants combination!
Euonymus obovatus in late fall
The time to shine for the Running strawberry-bush is in late fall, when the green foliage becomes more visible on the woodland floor showing the conspicuous red capsules with orange seeds.
The same goes for Smilax herbacea; in good years, the foliage turns bright yellow showcasing the black fruits clusters (in the featured image).
* This fall the Hamamelis capsules were damaged by the weevil larvae (Pseudanthonomus hamamelidis).
**From other species with late fruits/seeds maturation I also hope to collect Clematis virginiana and Cephalanthus occidentalis in the near future, if possible.
Due to the extensive summer drought, most likely there won’t be any skunk cabbage fruits this fall (for those who asked).
Friday’s seed with Uvularia
PropagationPacking Uvularia grandiflora (Large-flowered bellwort) for orders in the past days I noticed few seeds with already emerged radicles – shown in the image above. From any given lot of seeds, some are always in a hurry to germinate; the others will follow over time. These seeds have been kept in moist storage at room temperature since being collected in early August (warm/moist cycle). When the seeds are kept moist or sown right away after collecting, the radicles will start to emerge and also form a tiny rhizome in the fall; the leaves will follow in the spring after a cold/moist cycle (winter).
For those who already sowed Uvularia seeds – this is happening right now, deep down in your pots!
Things are simple, fruit and seeds wise, when it comes to Uvularia species: the seeds are enclosed in a capsule which will open to release them at maturity; usually they mature somewhere in August in SW Ontario. They are equipped with elaiosomes which attract ants (and maybe other insects) that contribute to their dispersal.
The capsules will get from green to greenish-white to white before splitting to release the seeds: Uvularia al dente.
One reward for the work of collecting and offering moist-packed seeds is the fact that more people start growing and enjoying in their garden various native species not readily available to purchase.
Uvularia grandiflora is one of them. Like many other rhizomatous species that require a few years to reach a ‘saleable size’, it is rarely seen on offer at the regular garden centers, although it is easy to grow from seeds and it grows quite fast.
It emerges early in the spring already showing the flowers, at a time when it is quite ‘empty’ in our woodlands. The first pollinators do not take for granted this plant!
The large, yellow flowers are very showy and make good companions for many other woodland plants. It often forms colonies, sometimes on rocky slopes, being drought resistant.
Uvularia grandiflora in early spring
Uvularia grandiflora in habitat, early May
Uvularia grandiflora
The foliage remains nice looking for the rest of the summer and fall, in good years even taking a nice golden color.
So, what are you waiting for? For those ‘afraid’ of pots – the seeds are large enough and can be sown directly in the ground, in the garden in a proper location.
For sowing directly in the ground please review: Growing Caulophyllum from seeds the easy way
Moist packed seeds update
Wildflowers of North AmericaAs announced, we are ‘back to business’, thanks to Canada Post resuming activity. It seems that all works well for the time being.
The regular check-up on the moist packed seeds yesterday revealed the first signs of germination on Trillium grandiflorum. No surprise here.
Those new to our blog can read about the Large flowered Trillium germination in a few older posts: No- DOD’s, Check and skotomorphogeneticals.
Also as expected, few of the Daphne mezereum seeds show grown radicles, while the white flowered form, Daphne mezereum ex. ‘Bowles White’ seeds are only in the initial stage of radicles emergence. Needless to say that this may be the last chance to purchase and sow the Daphne seeds! The seeds with grown radicles cannot be safely shipped afterwards.
Daphne mezereum germinated seeds
Daphne mezereum ‘Bowles White’ germination
From all other moist-packed seeds, Asarum canadense (wild ginger) is the next one expected to start germination (roots only) somewhere in November; hurry up!
For all the above mentioned species, I refer to the radicles growth as ‘germination’ for convenience. The actual complete germination will happen in the spring, after a cold/moist cycle, when the first leaves will start growing.
As usual, all moist packed seeds will remain available until temperatures start to drop sharply below zero (it could be in late November, December…). Newly added to the Seed List:
Clematis viorna
Clematis integrifolia
Physostegia virginiana
Friday’s seed and plant portrait – Lomelosia olgae
PropagationAll late fall flowering species are precious, not only for our solace (the winter is coming!) but also for the pollinators; the food sources are getting scarce at this time.
Lomelosia olgae, garden cultivated, October
Lomelosia olgae is one of them.
Looking like a Scabiosa but not quite the same, this species hails from the North Caucasus and Transcaucasus regions.
The flowers and the fruits are very similar with those of a Scabiosa. The foliage though is quite particular, with gray-green entire lanceolate leaves, felty (pubescent) underneath. The flowering stems are decumbent, a habit which I think is not only because of my garden conditions.
Pictures on inaturalist,images taken in the wild habitat, often show it with the same growing habit in most cases.
https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/777648-Lomelosia-olgae/browse_photos
Lomelosia olgae foliage
We can get inspired by these wild images and cultivate it over a stone wall, or in a large rockery flowing down among boulders.
Having neither of them in my garden, it contents with the edge of a slightly raised plant bed. It grows well in full sun or part-shade and proves to be drought resistant.
There are still flower buds developing in October, which is another character I appreciate: the long flowering period, staggered over a few weeks in late fall.
We will only know later in the season if there will be enough fruits/seeds to be offered on the Seed List this year.
Lomelosia olgae – involucels with achenes; showing removed and damaged achenes (bottom)
The Lomelosia fruit is an achene, enclosed in a persistent involucel, and usually it is sown as a whole. This involucel serves a protective function for the fruit. The achene can be removed by gently squeezing the involucel but most often it will be damaged (like seen in the image to the left).
The calyx of the flower remains attached and it looks like a coronet on top of the involucel; an achene with a crown :)
So, again, we do not see the actual seeds when sowing, we don’t even see the fruits! Not all flowers get pollinated and sometimes the involucels contain no fruits (not always easy to observe).
Germination wise, Lomelosia olgae, it is a warm germinator (at room temperature) just like Scabiosa species.
*Named in honor of Olga Alexandrovna Fedchenko, Russian botanist (1845-1921) with immense contributions especially to Flora of Central Asia.
**New orders are accepted starting Monday October 20th!