Plant portrait: Centaurea jankae D. Brândză

Centaurea jankae growing on the steep, rocky shore of Lake Razelm; Dobrogea, Romania.

Only about Centaurea jankae today; this species is too important to be mixed with other announcements.
Centaurea jankae is an endemic and extremely rare species, which can be found growing in steppe habitats only in Dobrogea, Romania and Bulgaria. In fact, two small populations exist in both countries.
It is a tall species with beautiful deeply-pinnately leaves and a multitude of large, magenta-red flowers, all summer long into late fall (the last flower was recorded in November).

I acquired very few, precious seeds by chance 5 years ago on the shoreline of Lake Razelm in Dobrogea, and understandably I was very happy for the chance to grow it.

Since then, it has flowered twice in my garden, every time as solitary plants. Despite the long flowering period and many pollinators visiting the flowers, no achenes were produced in both years. Self-incompatibility is often a problem in the Asteraceae family.
After flowering, it didn’t return in the spring, acting like a monocarpic species, and so the chances of maintaining it in cultivation were vanishing.

Update 2023: there are more plants now :) and of course more seeds. Not all plants behave monocarpic, it may differ if the garden location is suitable.

It is known that self-incompatibility is often exacerbated in very small populations, including for other Centaurea species, and in extreme cases it can even contribute to local extinction. In plain language, a very small population will contain too many ‘brothers’ and ‘sisters’ (of the same mother plant).

Luckily I had 2-3 seeds germinating every year; the germination is very easy (warm germinator) and the plants will flower after 2-3 years. This summer, 2 plants reached flowering stage. I was anxious, but…we got seeds (achenes)!

A lot of achenes can be empty and required very careful selection. However, a few seeds are all we need in most cases to perpetuate a species in cultivation.

Centaurea jankae

Centaurea jankae foliage

Centaurea jankae, June

Those having a sunny, well drained location in their garden, have the occasion now to follow me in growing the rare and beautiful Centaurea jankae! Conservation through propagation is one of our goals.

*The author of the species was Dimitrie Brândză, Romanian botanist and founder of the Botanical Garden of Bucharest.
**The specific epithet honors Victor Janka – Austrian military officer and botanist, which collected plants extensively throughout the former Austro-Hungarian Empire.

 

Seeds and marshmallows

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Few more species have been added to the inventory; mostly seeds that arrived from friends, with many thanks:
Dianthus deltoides, Phlomis tuberosa, Ratibida pinnata, Althaea officinalis, Primula florindae and Gentiana asclepiadea (a wonderful mix of colors :-).

Also Rosa acicularis ssp. sayi, Iris tectorum ‘Album’ and Silene uniflora ‘Compacta’, of which I forgot to post earlier. I am sure that after I finish processing all the seeds for cold storage placement, there will still be few to add to the list.

All are easily found through the Seeds List with the links leading to descriptions and all other necessary info. During our long winter we will get to talk in more detail about few of them for sure.

Right now, given the cold weather and snow, I feel like rambling about Althaea officinalis, the Marsh mallow.

I don’t think there is a medicinal garden or medicinal section of any Botanical Garden in the world that doesn’t display Althaea officinalis. The roots are rich in polysaccharides which can be extracted with cold water resulting in a mucilaginous substance with emollient and anti-inflammatory properties; the leaves are also edible and the dried flowers can be used in teas.

A group of Althaea officinalis plants. The wild form has whitish-rose flowers; there are cultivars in other colors as well.

According to various sources, the sap extracted from its roots has been used to make ‘honey candies’ since Ancient Egyptians. Romans and Greeks were also using them for coughs and sour throats. Like many other medicinal species, later it has jumped into the ornamental gardens. Nowadays it is escaped from cultivation in many regions of the world. It is a good plant for wildflowers gardens or the back of a border, with hibiscus-like flowers along the stems, enjoyed by pollinators.

An old botanical illustration showing the roots

Back to the marshmallows – you may have guessed, the real ones were made from the candied roots of this plant, hence the name.
Today in North America the marshmallow is a sweet product that only retained the former name. The composition may vary a bit but in general it reads: high glucose corn syrup, gelatin (to replace the mallow root extract), sugar, modified corn starch, dextrose, water, TSPP, Blue1, natural and artificial flavors. A few other additives are permitted in Canada since “Marshmallows are an unstandardized food, like most confectionery items with the exception of chocolate products and mixed nuts”.

Hmmm, what a ‘yummy’ sweet poison…

The French also produced their marshmallows at the beginning of 19th century under the name Pâte de Guimauve (Guimauve being the common name for Althaea in French).
The dessert was prepared from a mixture of Althaea roots sap, egg whites and sugar, beaten by hand for hours and was destined to royalties.

Good news is that Althaea officinalis is a perennial plant that it is easy to grow from seeds (or by division) and it develops a nice root system quite fast. The roots are whitish yellowish on the outside and white on the inside. It is easy to harvest a few pieces of roots, scrub them clean and process them into ‘candies’ or even easier for a non-sugar option: cut in small pieces and dry them (or process further into a powder). The extraction of the mucilage is quite simple, by maceration in cold water. Drink it up afterwards to soothe your throat or cough; there are benefits for other ailments as well. The mucilage and the leaves can also be used in external applications for skin inflammations.

PS. I am testing the GA3, stay tuned.

Cold announcements

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Ontario went from summer-like fall weather to winter in a blink of an eye!

First, the shipping of the moist packed seeds has been cancelled as of today!
With apologies to the few people who had them included in the recent orders; there is no point to ship non-viable seeds.

Second, are your seedlings prepared for the winter? We cannot leave our ‘precious’ unprotected. Besides new fall sowings, there are always young seedlings still in pots.
We touched on this subject here and there, but I think it is best to do a resume; this is for people living in a cold climate, zone 6 and below.

We are talking about 1-2(3) years-old seedlings still in pots and newly sown seeds.
Those who have a proper cold frame, know what to do with them, so let’s see what other holding conditions can be improvised.

Seedlings winter protection – the easy way

The easiest, if you have just a few pots: find a place between perennials in the garden, and dug them in. Place a mesh on top to discourage the critters and a pile of leaves/or mulch on top. Water the pots well one more time before doing this!

For a larger quantity of pots, you need a larger empty area somewhere in your garden.
Water well, gather all the pots together and have various materials handy: bubble wrap, fleece, shading/frost black cloth, tarps.

As seen in the picture, some of my pots (2 years old dormant seedlings and ungerminated seeds of last year) are in plastic boxes. This already offers them a bit of protection. Seedlings of this year are wrapped in cloth. The wooden frame is not really necessary (although very easy to do); and way smaller for my needs!

Arrange everything tight together and start adding layers, finishing with the tarp.

Sowings winter protection

Seedlings in the trays covered with black cloth

Sowings and seedlings winter protection

Instead of one big pile, you can do 2: one for new sowings, one for young seedlings (these need more protection). I was in a hurry and there will be warmer periods when the big pile can be rearranged.

Ideally, it will snow on top of the pile and that would seal the deal. If not, fingers crossed….
It is not that these pots won’t freeze at all; they will, believe me (I would find them frozen in the spring even in the cold frame). But we hope to attenuate the extreme low temperatures: -3C is OK, but -10C is already a different story.

Notes: make the pile in a place where the snow gathers well (for example, under big evergreen trees there is always less snow). If possible, the area should be in the shade, so the snow won’t melt too fast during the sunny days.

You are not prepared to protect your seedlings yet?
Take them all in the garage or any other cool area until you have everything ready. Night temperatures of -9C have been announced for the end of the week, for few days in a row!

Other method I know in use: arrange all pots/flats within a pile of compost and tarp it (this is a bit dangerous if you have mice on your property though).

I’ll end with a Helleborus foetidus image; always a happy looking plant, no matter the temperature. Plus, look at those fatty flower buds just awaiting for spring!

November seeds

We are all enjoying the gorgeous weather of November. However, and I hate to spoil the mood, winter is fast approaching and there is no escape from it.

So, I did a check-up on the moist packed seeds to place one more call for the remaining seeds in stock! Do not wait any longer for the weather to take a bad turn. Keep in mind that some species are not offered every year.

 Moist packed seeds

I would also like to point again to the Germination page, where I share from my experience of growing from seeds. Take a moment to browse through it, who knows, there might be something new to learn. I hope to update it more during the winter time. For sowing at this point and going into the early winter – please see: Practical considerations for sowing in late fall / winter.

Asclepias tuberosa seeds

Asclepias tuberosa seeds were trying to escape their pods yesterday – now they wait in the inventory. I am sure Asclepias exaltata seeds are awaiting in the woods, maybe for a weekend collection. It is possible to also find Triosteum aurantiacum with fruits – not so long ago I collected the first 3 fruits :-) from my Triosteum grown from seeds.

From the non-native, thanks to generous friends Glaucidium palmatum seeds, of both colors, are now in stock.

Time has been short this week, so about few more species next time.
Those who have the intention to germinate Glaucidium using GA3, wait a ‘second’, there will be GA3 offered soon, in limited quantity and only for the customers who are purchasing seeds.

Until next….

Friday’s updates with Amsonia

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While seeds are still collected into late fall, we continue with the updates of the Seeds List and occasional plant portraits.

I introduce two more new North American species this season:
Amsonia illustris, Shining Bluestar, Ozark Bluestar
Veronicastrum virginicum, Culvert’s root

Both of them are well known and present in our gardens, but Amsonia needs more promotion. Most Amsonia species are native in Central and SE US with only a couple species from Asia and SE Europe; all are known under the collective name of Bluestars, from their characteristic light blue, star-like flowers. Amsonia illustris and A. tabernaemontana and A. hubrichtii are probably the most cultivated species.

Ozark Bluestar takes its common name from the shiny, thick, willow-like leaves – one of its greatest feature! They persist well into late fall, with the same clean, green shiny look, before turning yellow; remarkably, with no sign of pests damage (being a member of Apocynaceae family pays off :) Clusters of light blue, star-like flowers appear in June and are enjoyed by various pollinators.

Amsonia illustris foliage

Amsonia illustris flowers

If a plant can look so healthy, and also flower and produce seeds after the dry season we have had in SW Ontario, then nothing more to be said for its advertisement.

Amsonia illustris fruits & seeds

The slender fruits are somewhat hidden among the foliage and mature in late October. The fruit is a type of dry capsule called follicle (drooping in this case) and contains 6-9 brown, textured seeds – so we also had a Friday’s seeds!

This Amsonia will get larger in size from one year to another – think of Baptisia australis and Dictamnus albus and you will understand what I mean.
It can be grown in full sun to part shade locations and it is drought resistant after it gets established.

Also, the seeds stock has  been replenished for:
Hibiscus moscheutos
Penstemon digitalis
Smilax herbacea

 

 

 

Veronicastrum virginicum

Penstemon digitalis

Hibiscus moscheutos

The Buttonbush & companions

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I haven’t collected buttonbush seeds in many years. Most people prefer to purchase already grown shrubs and it is understandable. However, after seeing how nice and floriferous a small group of buttonbushes were looking despite the terrible drought, I had a change of heart. After all, most sources indicate that it is an easy to germinate species.

Cephalanthus occidentalis is a deciduous shrub with a rounded, open habit that can reach 3+ m (in optimal conditions), ie. wetlands, ponds and lakes edges, other wetland habitats. The more moisture it gets the larger it will grow.
The Buttonbush takes its common name from the round flower heads formed from many, small tubular flowers with exerted stamens. They flower gradually over a long period and are very fragrant! They attract many insects, especially long-tongue pollinators like bumblebees, butterflies, hummingbirds. The buttonbush is also a ‘honey plant’.
The fruiting heads take an attractive red color in late fall before seeds maturation; the fruits are 2-seeded nutlets (used as food by various waterfowls). So, it is one of those cases when we are actually sowing fruits, not seeds.

Cephalanthus occidentalis flowering in July

Cephalanthus occidentalis, fruiting heads before maturation

Good news is that the Buttonbush adapts well to growing in regular garden soil, except very dry locations. It just won’t grow that tall, which is actually a good thing for our gardens.

Teucrium canadense in early October

Another species recently added to the inventory that also prefers wet places but grows perfectly well in regular soil isTeucrium canadense , the American germander.
Same like the Buttonbush, it performed well during a very dry season, so we shouldn’t be afraid to grow it. I failed to take a picture at its peak flowering time, but believe me that the long flower spikes (light to deep pink) are attractive and good for pollinators. It does well in sun to part-shaded locations; some also call it Wood Salvia.

Speaking about wetland species that perform very well in regular garden conditions, the Carex grayi seeds inventory has also been replenished.

For the last species, Wild Calla, we would really need a small pond or other water feature to be able to grow it. Calla palustris is a great addition to a wetland area due to its handsome foliage, long flowering period and bright, red fruits in the fall. Most years the fruits are hard to reach, so I took advantage of the receding water on the margin of a pond this fall; those interested can now grow their own wild ‘exotic’ Calla! The seeds are kept moist to ensure  good germination.

Calla palustris (Wild Calla, Water Arum)

 

Back in stock, again

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As announced, we travel local this weekend trough Eastern and Central North American woodlands with:

Amphicarpaea bracteata, American hog-peanut
Asclepias exaltata, Poke Milkweed
and Aronia melanocarpa, Black Chokeberry – counting as new for this season, so we’ll stop for a few seconds to talk about it.

The Black Chokeberry is a great shrub for the wildlife garden, with white flowers in the spring, glossy green leaves which turn red in the fall and black/blue edibles berries. It usually grows as a shrub and it also spreads by root suckers.

Black Chokeberry is a very tough shrub that can be grown in full sun or part-shade, and adapts well to a wide range of soils; the more moisture has the more vigorous will grow.
Usually seen growing/sold as a medium size shrub, in less than optimal conditions in the wild, it can be dwarfed by the winds and snow. So, we have the option to keep it pruned and use it as a featured shrub in a large rockery, for example (or other garden situations).

Mitchella repens (Partridge berry) stock was almost depleted, and more seeds are also now available. The same goes for Lilium michiganense. The partridge berry (in the featured image) is a hard to beat evergreen, very low groundcover for rather moist locations.

The Seeds List

Happy Thanksgiving to all celebrating!

Seeds traveling

For this weekend we do an imaginary travel to Japan for the elegant Sanguisorba tenuifolia ‘Alba’, with a stop in the Caucasus for the robust Dioscorea caucasica, and we return via some of the European alpine meadows where the gorgeous Anemonastrum narcissiflorum thrives (syn. Anemone narcissiflora, Narcissus anemone).

Sanguisorba tenuifolia ‘Alba’

Anemone narcissiflora (Anemonastrum)

Dioscorea caucasica (2)

Salvia viridis (2)

Given the cool nights, I added a warm, violet splash of the Mediterranean Salvia viridis (annual clary), which is still ‘flowering’ in my garden (the colorful ‘stuff’ are bracts not flowers; the flowers look like any other Salvia flowers, are small and light purple in color).

A ‘seeds/flowering weekend escape’ at its best!

Later next week we can hope for more local traveling with few native species (Amphicarpaea, Asclepias exaltata, Asclepias tuberosa…); the arrival of cold nights has slowed down the seed maturation.
*Disappointingly, Sanguisorba canadensis, despite a beautiful flowering did not set seeds; there may be self-incompatibility involved.

Fairy bells

Disporum uniflorum

Disporum uniflorum, Korean Fairy Bells, had a good season despite the drought – and the seeds were just placed in the inventory!

We already had a plant portrait for this species: Korean Fairy Bells, plus a Friday’s Seeds, so there is no point for a whole new discussion. I found this Disporum to be a particularly handsome plant. As the saying goes, the beauty is in the eye of the beholder…

The same can be said for Uvularia grandiflora, our North American Fairy Bells.
Both species actually flower at the same time, usually at the beginning of May, to the delight of the early bumblebees! Easy to germinate (sown right away or moist packed seeds) and fast growing, they are great species for the spring garden and not only, the foliage remains beautiful until fall.

Disporum uniflorum, even if not as drought resistant as Uvularia grandiflora, certainly beats many other woodland plants in this regard. You cannot go wrong with adding these two yellow bells to your garden!

Talking about fairy bells, few seeds of Yellow Fairy Bells, Prosartes lanuginosa (formerly Disporum) are also available for a limited time – being particularly sensitive to moist packing, they are kept dry and should be sown asap. Available for purchase or to be given away to the first person who buys Disporum uniflorum seeds (ask for them in the note).

To celebrate the beginning of fall – all orders containing both species: Disporum uniflorum AND Uvularia grandiflora, receive a free packet with Corydalis nobilis seeds!

Disporum and Uvularia flowering in May with few companions:

Disporum uniflorum, May 2022

Uvularia grandiflora

Corydalis nobilis

Lathyrus, Primula sieboldii

Stylophorum diphyllum

Jeffersonia dubia

More seeds announcements on Friday; hint for those who want to wait to combine in one order: Gillenia, Maianthemum racemosum and M. canadense, Euonymus obovatus.

Carnivorously fragrant

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I am always on the lookout for carnivorous plants seeds for the small but dedicated group of ‘carnivorously inclined’ that follows the blog/seeds offerings.

Drosera intermedia; great idea for a ‘moist crevice’ garden!

This late summer I was pleased to find a Drosera intermedia population with seeds at the right moment, growing together with Utricularia cornuta, Horned bladderwort, also with seeds at the right moment!
Once in a while I have the occasion to witness mass flowering of Utricularia cornuta but I can rarely be there at the right moment to collect seeds. Last time they were offered about 6 years ago.

The Horned bladderwort is a species found growing in various regions of North America, curiously enough, in colder and also warmer regions (warm like in Cuba!).
As opposed to Drosera, the mechanisms for catching the prey (traps) are situated underground; above the ground we can only notice its presence during flowering when thin flowering stems adorned with large, yellow flowers appear; sometime in large numbers (depending on location).
The flowers are also very, very fragrant! It is no wonder that various pollinators are attracted to them.

Utricularia cornuta, Horned baldderwort

Utricularia cornuta with Drosera linearis

You can read more about the Horned bladderwort by clicking on the links provided. As well for Drosera intermedia.
This year, despite low expectations, there are also good amounts of Drosera linearis and Pinguicula vulgaris seeds.
All you need is a moist location (a pond edge would make a wonderful place) and the will to grow them! And don’t forget to also add Sarracenia purpurea to the group!

Pinguicula vulgaris

Drosera linearis with Pinguicula vulgaris

Sarracenia purpurea pitchers

Word goes around that we should also consider Triantha as being a ‘partially carnivorous’ plant, but seeds-wise we have to wait till later in the fall to see if they will be available.

Sowing in moss – part II

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Medeola virginiana seeds have just been placed in the inventory. The Indian cucumber is a species that germination speaking “breaks with the tradition” (Breaking the tradition- Medeola germination).

New foliage of Medeola virginiana in the spring, growing in moss with Coptis trifolia (previous year leaves) and Canada Mayflower.

In some places it can be found growing on mossy decomposed tree trunks together with Coptis trifolia, the goldthread and Maianthemum canadensis (Canada Mayflower).

This is a great occasion to emphasize that Coptis trifolia should also be sown asap! Like many other species from the Ranunculaceae family, and those from the moist-packed seeds category, for the best germination it requires a slightly warm/moist stratification period before the winter arrives (ie. the cold/moist stratification period). Otherwise, germination will happen in the second year.

I decided to also sow Coptis seeds; hands-on experience is like no other :) And why not sow like the nature does many times in moist places? Meaning in moss. I already described and recommended this method for Gaultheria and Saxifraga cuneifolia: Green inspiration – sowing in moss.
The method can certainly be used for other species like Coptis, Trientalis, Medeola, Clintonia, Cornus canadensis. And surely 2-3 species could be sown together in a larger pot.

Medeola germination is already tested so let’s try the bunchberry (Cornus canadensis) this time.

 

Prepare a pot: add regular garden soil and a tuft of moss and saturate with water. Next day, have the seeds handy, remove the moss and press the larger seeds in the soil (Medeola, Cornus…), put back the chunk of moss and sprinkle the finer seeds on it (Coptis, Gaultheria, Trientalis); water slowly to push the finer seeds into the moss. Keep the pot in a shaded place, water when necessary. Depending on the situation: many critters, hot summers, you can also enclose the pot in a loose plastic bag. *Preferably use a larger pot that the one seen here.

Especially for species that take 2+ years to germinate, I think it is a wonderful method of sowing: the moss will help keep the pot content evenly moist, plus that it looks nice all year long!
Have yourself a nice hike and collect a little bit of moss :-)

 

September seeds

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Seeds of the following native species have been added to the Shop. We can consider them ‘new’ since last time they were offered in 2016, and not from lack of trying. You can read more about each of them by clicking on the links provided.

Cornus canadensis, the lovely bunchberry; also read more about it Here

Aralia hispida – Britsly sarsaparilla, which is coming in full splendor in September when the fruits change color

Cornus canadensis fruits

Aralia hispida

Lobelia spicata, Pale- blue Lobelia – a choice, delicate species, that can be grown in a variety of situations. For a nice ‘native combo’ you can grow this Lobelia together with the Harebell and Solidago simplex var. ontarioense; they are often found growing close by.

Campanula rotundifolia, the ubiquitous Harebell, that has a place in any garden; the dainty flowers appear from early summer till fall and are better displayed in a rockery.
*The names harebell and witched thimble are said to come from a folk belief that witches used the plant to transform themselves into hares. If we are to believe more folklore, a superstition also says that the harebell flowers will ring to warn rabbits of foxes :)

Lobelia spicata (3)

Campanula rotundifolia

I am happy that my message got through to more people, but I would like to emphasize once more that it is best to first hurry up with all the species from the moist-packed seeds category, peonies, Helleborus, Actaea, Aralia, Lilium, Cornus canadensis… it is still enough time for them to undergo the slightly warm/moist period (required for germination) before the winter arrives (the cold/moist stratification). You will hear me repeating this a few more times!

Speaking about the Moist packed seeds – this fall, both our native Jeffersonia diphylla and its Asian counterpart Jeffersonia dubia are on the Seeds List. Not easy to find to buy the plants, and expensive when it happens; plus they are very difficult to divide. On top of all this, the seeds are difficult to keep in moist storage (all good till now).

Jeffersonia dubia

Jeffersonia diphylla in April

More seeds to come….

 

BotanyCa Shop reopening – fall 2022

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The Seeds Shop is open!

It has been a very dry, tough summer in SW Ontario; also in other regions weather has been very capricious this year, to say the least. The seed set has been affected in general, not only in the wild areas, but also in the gardens.

We remain committed to only collecting a small quantity of seeds from the wild areas, and only from well-established populations. Therefore, more than ever we have to be less wasteful and learn to make due with less, including seeds speaking.

BotanyCa operates as a seeds provider for the hobby gardeners and specialized nurseries.
With regret, we cannot provide large quantities of seeds for naturalizations or other large scale garden projects.
From the beginning, the desire and goal of this business was for regular gardeners to have access to native species not commonly offered by other sources in Canada (or offered as DOD); and also to non-native, more unusual species which come at a high price as plants and are best grown from seeds.

With this in mind, species with limited seeds in stock can only be ordered as 1 pck./person like in previous years. Also, all the other species, at least for the beginning of the season, can be purchased in max. 2 pck. /person.
There are enough seeds in 1-2 pck. of seeds  not only to grow enough seedlings for an average garden, but also, in most cases, to share them with friends!

Direct access to various plant categories

This being said, I extend again many thanks to all those who continue to make the effort of growing plants from seeds and provide a refuge in their gardens to various species, some of which are only grown by specialized nurseries (the dwindling number of them), or not at all.

Many thanks as well to those few who generously contribute with seeds, enriching our offerings.
I would be happy to hear from other knowledgeable people willing to collect seeds of native species, especially from other provinces than ON (Contact form).

The real reward of a small scale seeds business is actually seeing more people trying to grow plants from seeds. Propagation by seeds will always help the conservation of biodiversity, not only of plant species, but all other life forms with which they are tightly interconnected; for this reason we have to persevere.

It is a continuous learning process and an experience like no other.

Thank you again. To the seeds and sowing!

Shipping and Delivery terms BotanyCa Seeds List

 

 

 

The cure for insanity

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Before the announcement for the Shop re-opening, I have good reason to ‘recycle’ and update a post about the lovely Cornus canadensis (bunchberry, dwarf cornel) from a few years ago.
Reason is that fruits have just been collected and, together with few other species, they await the seeds extraction.
So, keep in mind that a new group of species will be posted in the inventory later next week. Among them: Aralia hispida, Lobelia spicata, Drosera intermedia, an Utricularia species and few others.
By a good chance, seeds of another species that wasn’t offered in quite a few years: Coptis trifolia, the goldthread were also collected.

Cornus canadensis

Usually the name Cornus makes us think of trees and shrubs. But the bunchberry is a lovely perennial dogwood, which grows only to 15-20 cm tall, with leaves arranged in whorls of 4 or 6. The flowers, typical for a Cornus, are easy recognizable after the 4 large, white petal-like bracts. The fruit is an attractive, red, globe-shaped drupe, persistent, and also edible (small mammals, birds).

Good as a groundcover in shaded, moist locations, underneath small trees or shrubs; lovely to grow underneath Rhododendrons for example. I have also seen it growing on old tree stumps on top of moss, which would be great to try to ‘reproduce’ if possible (Coptis trifolia and Medeola virginiana can be grown the same way). It also needs a slightly acidic substrate and a cool location.  Usually it can be found in the company of Linnaea borealis, Trientalis borealis, Coptis trifolia, Maianthemum canadense and few others.

Cornus canadensis

 

Propagation from seeds is slow and the best protocol I found suggests: a period of warm/moist stratification for 45 days; followed by cold-moist stratification for 140 days (ie. 4-5 months or two winters). I think we can try to replace 1 winter by doing the following:
warm/moist stratification 1 month + GA3 treatment + cold/moist stratification (2-3 months = 1 winter).

Among its uses by the Indigenous People I found the mention of fruits consumption as a cure for insanity ;) I will chew some while extracting the seeds; who knows, I might get cured of the insanity of trying to maintain this seeds business during a time of increasing world-wide practices of restricting gardeners access to seeds, or better said, rules favoring the large, multinational companies in detriment of small scale operations. Sounds familiar?

Until tomorrow…

 *I cannot miss the chance to post this link where the unique pollination mechanism found in Cornus canadensis is described: THE EXPLOSIVE POLLINATION MECHANISM IN CORNUS CANADENSIS L. – https://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/ben/ben194.html

 

 

Latest seeds; recap on Trillium germination

First, in the idea that a picture is worth a thousand words: Trillium grandiflorum leftover seeds from 2021, germinating after following a warm (summer-fall 2021)- cold (winter 2021-2022) – warm (spring-summer 2022) cycles regime. 
They took me by surprise, usually the rootlets start to grow somewhere in September.

Trillium grandiflorum germinated seeds from 2021 harvest; they need one more cold cycle (winter 2022) for the leaves to appear

As I mentioned before, from any batch of Trillium grandiflorum seeds, part of them always germinate (root) in the first fall and the remaining seeds will germinate in the second fall. So, those who purchased T. grandiflorum  seeds last year may have in their pots a combination of seedlings with the first leaves plus only germinated seeds (root only, like in the picture). It is also possible to have only germinated seeds (like seen in the picture).

Other Trillium species follow the same pattern (complete germination in 2 years), others germinate entirely in the first season, and others only germinate in the second year (e.g., Trillium erectum usually only germinates in the second year after sowing).


Latest seeds collected:
Caulophyllum thalictroides and Actaea pachypoda fo. rubrocarpa (wild)

Edraianthus graminifolius, Roscoea schneideriana and Roscoea tibetica  (garden)
Clematis occidentalis and Clematis alpina (on-going) – these are early spring flowering species.

Edraianthus graminifolius, Aurinia

Clematis occidentalis

Clematis alpina

Roscoea tibetica

The Seeds Shop will be open for orders starting August 29th. There will be another announcement with few a important details on Sunday (Aug. 28th) before the re-opening.

The Seeds List has been updated as much as possible. Plus, there is a tab with various announcements at the top. It is always a work in progress: some species get sold out fast and for others the seeds are ready only later in the fall.

The first species that require attention/sowing right away are the following:
ALL Moist Packed seeds, Paeonia, Helleborus, Lilium species, Actaea, Aralia, Hydrophyllum.

Besides using the Seed List, on the main page click on the SEEDS SHOP tab on top-right for a direct access to various categories.

There is hope for more seeds collecting to be done this week. Until next…

Fine grasses for shade & companions

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Not so long ago, when collecting seeds of Viola pubescens var. scabriuscula, I noticed that on a few clumps of Carex rosea (the Rosy sedge or Curly sedge) the seeds were ready. I intended to collect seeds of it a while ago but it was never the right time. Many times you need to get down to the ground to observe the ‘finer’ things.

I love the wonderful ‘grass-like’ fine carpets the curly sedge forms in many deciduous woods. It can grow in a wide range of situations from dry to moist substrates. The ‘curly’ alludes to the fact the stigmas of the flowers are curled (good eyesight or magnifying lens required). *There are few other species included in Carex rosea group.

Carex rosea, summer

Carex rosea seeds

It was a hot day and I enjoyed the shade for a while observing the other species growing nearby & among the Rosy sedge clumps. Besides the Violas there were a couple of Uvularia grandiflora seedlings and Trillium grandiflorum, Maianthemum canadense, a woodland Galium and a Smilax youngster to the right, plus Hepatica americana. What a perfect grouping for a garden woodland micro-habitat!

Not as often cultivated as they should be, the woodland sedges and other relatives (like the woodrushes, Luzula) are among the first ‘green’ messengers present on the woodland floors after the spring snowmelt and also the last one before the snow starts falling in the winter. They can serve the same function in our gardens, complementing the few evergreens and perennials that keep their leaves green throughout the winter (Hepatica, Gaultheria, Mitchella, Helleborus, Polystichum and other ferns).

Carex rosea, Trillium, Uvularia…

Hepatica americana and Carex rosea

Carex rosea group, December

Carex pennsylvanica, early spring

Spring woodland floor

Luzula acuminata

Carex eburnea

Carex plantaginea

Carex on woodland trail, late fall

 There are many other sedges that can be grown in the shaded garden. To mention only the superfine Carex eburnea (Bristle leaf sedge), the Plantain leaf sedge (Carex plantaginea) and another favourite of mine: Carex pensylvanica, Pennsylvania sedge.
We just need more seeds & more nurseries to grow them.  Some species can be purchased on occasion; when it happens do not miss the chance. In any case, they are in the ‘very easy to grow from seeds’ category.

Melica uniflora

This fall you will also find on the Seeds List another favorite grass of mine for shade/to part shade locations: Melica uniflora (syn. M. nutans), the Woodland Melic grass.
I had to grow it from seeds, since I’ve never seen it offered around here: easy to grow and clumps up fast in a part-shade, well drained location. The fine textured foliage comes with the added bonus of the gracious spikelets fluttering in the early summer breeze.

The third fine grass for shade, already offered last year: Patis racemosa (Blackseed rice grass) also deserves a mention. I still have to grow this one for the garden especially that the wild population is quite small and just few seeds can be collected. We don’t have many ‘bamboo-looking’ native grasses.

All these species are forming rhizomes, but are not the aggressive type; just enough so we can split them once in a while and replant the divisions or share them with the lucky friends.