Propagation – Page 5 – Botanically Inclined

Let me explain about evergreen Epimediums

While waiting for Jeffersonia diphylla capsules to open and the heat dome to go away, I will write a bit about the evergreen Epimedium species. Seeds will be offered soon and I know that not everyone is familiar with them/growing from seeds.
Years ago I had quite a few articles about some Chinese Epimediums on the website which I subsequently deleted because of the amount of spam generated by the tags attached. Because you see, the evergreen Epimedium species, which are of Chinese origin, are commonly called fairy-wings or barenworts (like the European and Japanese Epimediums), and also horny-goats weeds, supposedly because one of theirs medicinal properties ;) Enough said…

From all Epimediums I particularly like this group of species because of their evergreen, leathery handsome foliage and spidery-looking flowers. Musing on species that maintain a nice presence over the winter, I once described the evergreen Epimediums the next best thing to the Helleborus: Winter joys II.

Then, ‘the best is yet to come’ with the new spring foliage being incredibly ornamental in various shades of purple, salmon, or mottled, before turning green later. The spidery flowers might be a personal like, but I noticed that other people enjoy them too.

Epimedium ‘Amber Queen’

Epimedium lishihchenii

Epimedium acuminatum

I acquired a few of the available species, and after a few years when I noticed capsules on Epimedium ‘Amber Queen’, I said: how about trying to grow more from seeds? I had no idea about their requirements for germination and there was little to no info about the subject. This fantastic cultivar is in fact a hybrid resulted from a cross: E. wushanense ’Caramel’ x Epimedium flavum.

The most prolific seeds producer was/is always Epimedium ‘Amber Queen’ which I suspect it cross-pollinated, at the beginning, with Epimedium lishihchenii planted nearby.
Now there are more hybrids around the garden, and it may be a swarm of cross-hybridization going around. There is no ‘ flight control tower’ for the bumblebees :-) Which takes me to the third reason I love them: the flowers with long spurs are in high demand in the spring (around May here) for the long tongue pollinators.
Other evergreen species growing in the garden are Epimedium acuminatum, Epimedium stellulatum and Epimedium brachyrrhizum, so there are more cross-pollinations possibilities.

To state the obvious: all plants grown from seeds will be the result of cross-pollination.

Growing from seeds it is also the method of obtaining new commercially cultivars after careful selection. In the garden, one can keep whatever finds suitable and discard away the unwanted (flowers-wise). Most will produce a few flowers in 3-4 years so it’s a quick process.

I also found myself in the position to giving names to a few of the most deserving specimens, all chance seedlings; labels are needed when sharing divisions with friends :-)

Epimedium ‘New Horizons’

Epimedium ‘Freckles’

Epimedium ‘Raspberry Fudge’

Garden cultivation: plant them in part-shaded locations (especially shade for the afternoon in a hot climate). After many years, I consider the most commonly cultivated species to be quite drought resistant (occasional watering during drought), just that they will flower better having more moisture.
The evergreen foliage can became unsightly by early spring (depending on climate and in snowless winters); remove it only in late spring because it protects the flowering stems, which show up at ground level early and can be damaged by late frosts.
Most species grow from a tight rhizome, so if you want to divide them, dig out the whole clump and carefully take out a rhizome ‘slice’ in late spring/summer and grow it in a pot until fall to build up the roots. The spreading types are more easily divided, but even so they require a season or two to get back in shape.

Very fresh (green) and a few days ‘old’ Epimedium seeds

Propagation by seeds: the seeds seem to be hydrophilic and require a warm stratification followed by a cold stratification in order to germinate; sow them fresh in the summer and then allow a cold (winter) period.

As shown in the image, they are still green when the capsule splits open and are equipped with large elaiosomes, which will dry out in a few days, while the seed coats will mature and become brownish. For sowing we should follow the same procedures as with Hepatica seeds.

It seems that the seeds only need +/- 2 month of cold stratification, so if you keep the pots in a cold garage, for example, they may start to germinate in February (even earlier depending on the climate). To avoid this, keep the pots outdoors for the winter for spring germination. Self-sown seedlings appear in the spring every year now.

If you use indoor lighting, you can get a head start for the season; the seedlings grow fast and are very easy-going under lights.

Epimedium seedlings with cotyledon and first true leaves

Again, as a thank you to all customers (ask in the note) seeds will be offered complementary with all orders coming in with the next wave of fresh seeds (while quantities last).

Likewise, those who only want Epimedium seeds will be able to purchase them.
I hope to convert at least few people of growing them from seeds. Nice surprises await those willing to try!

June 20, 2024

All done

Propagation

The newly added Hepatica seeds are available. Links are provided for easy access on the top section of the SEED List.

There are still Corydalis seeds available, Claytonia virginica and notice the latest collection – Pachyphragma macrophyllum

Those wishing to obtain nice Pulsatilla seedlings right away this summer: have a look at Pulsatilla styriaca and Pulsatilla ex. styriaca pink.

ALL Hepatica, Corydalis and Claytonia seeds will be available only until June 15^th.

Many thanks again to all who are trying to grow from seeds our native Hepatica species and all other ‘best if sown right away’ species. My effort to provide these fresh seeds is equalled only by your effort to sow and take care of the seedlings.

May 31, 2024

A first

Propagation

It is the first time when I collected a nice amount of seeds from Corydalis nobilis, the ‘lord’ of the Corydalis species, also called Siberian corydalis. This species is self-incompatible, i.e. needs a partner or two, in order to produce good seeds. So, I counted on friends for seeds a few years – many thanks, while I grew and planted a couple more (actually there are 4 specimens now).

The first time when I mused about this species was in 2012 (thanks to WordPress organizing folders): The lord of the Corydalis.

Then, in 2016 I wasn’t worried about it becoming a ‘weed’ in my new garden. One can tell I am very fond of this Corydalis :)
“I read somewhere (most probably in an AGS Journal) about an old, neglected garden where C. nobilis had taken hold of and was growing everywhere like a weed. It can maybe happen in time; say 30 years from now on. Sounds like a good plan…”: In charge – Corydalis nobilis.

The lord of Corydalis species didn’t click as expected with the regular gardeners. The collectors know best. True that only a picture with the yellow flowers may induce just a ‘meh’ reaction.
This Corydalis has to be experienced from the very early spring apparition to the flowering end: to wonder at the expanding fleshy, bluish foliage (extremely cold hardy), at the ‘cones- like’ future inflorescences and later smile at the bumblebees foraging with delight the spicy flowers.
Plant it in the back/side of another larger perennial (Lathyrus vernus, Paeonia, Aconitum…) if you worry about having empty spots after it goes dormant.

Corydalis nobilis early spring

Corydalis nobilis spring foliage

Corydalis nobilis, Siberian Corydalis

Corydalis nobilis rhizome of a mature specimen; moving/transplanting can be easily done after the plant goes completely dormant.

It is not a rarity because it flowers later than the bulbous Corydalis species and the specialized nurseries have the occasion to show it when they open in the spring.

So, if you can find to buy a young one do not hesitate, the display will only get better as it grows up.

If not, it is easy to grow from fresh seeds like all other Corydalis species. Keep a couple of them and gift the rest to friends. It forms a large rhizome in time, making it fairly easy to move it around the garden in search for a good place (do it in late summer/fall when it is dormant).

Hepatica speaking, the seeds collecting is under way. As I know what seeds will be available, they are gradually displayed on the SEED List – Spring seeds section.

Also a first, there will be a small offering of Hepatica transsilvanica seeds; plus other regulars like Hepatica americana ‘Apple Blossoms’ , Hepatica americana blue mix, and we’ll see what else….. I even managed to catch few Claytonia virginica seeds, so the spring ‘seeds assortment’ will be complete. The sale will be announced.

May 24, 2024

Welcome May

Propagation

Hepatica japonica magenta form

All possible Corydalis seeds have been collected; we will wait a few more days to start the sale because the few Hepatica japonica forms which started to flower very early in an exposed location are also almost ready to shed their seeds.

So, we’ll group them together while waiting for all the other Hepaticas. This year the seeds of Hepatica americana and Hepatica acutiloba and some of the Hepatica nobilis forms will mature a bit later; the variations in temperatures play a big role, also the sun exposure.

For example, although Hepatica transsilvanica was one of the first to start flowering this spring, the seeds are not mature yet because it grows in a very shaded location.

Meanwhile, welcome May, much to admire, do, and so little time….

May 10, 2024

Adieu to April

Propagation

…and to bulbous Corydalis

Due to a mild winter this year, the first picture of Corydalis malkensis starting to flower was recorded on March 20^th! This is the first Corydalis to flower in our climate. Corydalis paczoskii followed shortly then along the month of April, more and more flowers appeared throughout the garden. As usual, they fared well though a few cold snaps and brief snowy periods. The latest to flower was as always Corydalis cava, which may be also due to its more shaded position.

Corydalis solida

In general, the flowering of bulbous Corydalis has been much better this spring.
I was excited to see flowering well a Corydalis solida of a nice peachy (or coral) color, with dense flowers on short stems. It may receive a name :)

Also, for a solitary clump of a very fragrant Corydalis, of kusnetzovii origin (it may also be a hybrid, although it sets seeds) with densely packed, powdery purple flowers (shown in the gallery).

A few Corydalis solida flowers are still hanging on, but it won’t be for long. As we know, when they prepare to go dormant it is time to check for the seeds and don’t forget that the capsules mature gradually and ‘explode’ to release the seeds.

The first seeds of Corydalis malkensis and Corydalis packzoskii were collected on April 25 and I’m working on Corydalis solida right now.

At BotanyCa, Corydalis solida and allies seeds are provided fresh only, so we may have to start the seeds sale before the Hepatica this year! The start of the sale will be announced as soon as all seeds are collected (there is a special section on top of the Seeds List general offerings).

There are so many posts about bulbous Corydalis, pictures included, on this website that one would wonder if we need any more. I do it as a ritual of passage from early to late spring. They are on my ‘plants I cannot live without’ list, and also on the same list for the spring mama-bumblebees. For all you need to know, click here: Growing Corydalis solida & allies from seeds

Adieu to April and to bulbous Corydalis; welcome May!
To all celebrating this weekend, a Happy Easter with hope for peace, kindness and love among all people!

Corydalis ex. kusnetzovii fragrant, 2024

May 3, 2024

Transplanting seedlings #2

Propagation

We sowed the seeds, took care of the smallest seedlings and they grew up. I am talking about the indoor started sowings in this post. Those who are sowing outdoors will follow the same procedures later, somewhere in June.

For seeds started early under indoor lights, late March-April is the time to prick out (or transplant) some of them*. It all depends of course on the size of the seedlings.
*Some species that you shouldn’t prick out in the first year: Arisaema, most monocots in general – Corydalis, Erythronium, Lilium ssp., Fritillaria, Alliums, Crocus, Roscoea; plus other species that only produce cotyledon leaves in the first season like Podophyllum spp. and Glaucidium.

There already is a post on this subject on the Germination page: Pricking – transplanting seedlings.

Phyteuma scheuchzeri seedlings ready to be transplanted

But let’s talk more about it since the final goal is to obtain good plants we can plant in the garden. Most often you will find the popular advice to transplant the seedlings after the first true leaves appear. Maybe it stemmed up from annual vegetables growing.

For perennial species, it is best to treat the seedlings from case to case. Large, fast growing seedlings can be pricked out after the first true leaves grow: Centaurea, Delphinium, Salvia, Helleborus, most Campanula species and others like them.

Another case when it is best to transplant the seedlings quite fast is for the species that grow long roots and those that dislike transplanting (many from Fabaceae family: Astragalus, Oxytropis…).

For many species though the seedlings remain quite small, tiny better said sometimes, even after the first leaves appear, like it happened with Phyteuma scheuchzeri for example. In these cases, I find it best to wait until the seedlings grow up a bit more, especially if there is space enough in the sowing pot.

Keep in mind that we do not need a lot of seedlings of the same species for our gardens. So, be mindful how many you transplant: 2-4 pots are more than enough, unless you plan on sharing with friends! Concentrate on the quality rather than the quantity.
Too many pots, and soon you’ll find impossible to take care of all the seedlings, especially when the season starts outdoors.

Consider transplanting bunches of seedlings/pot (like shown in the image for Phyteuma), this way you will obtain nice clumps faster.

My favorite method for most alpine plants who like to be planted at the final location when young: skip the transplanting and plant the whole sowing pot in the rockery (in case you started them very early indoors). That’s my standard for Draba species: sow, grow for a while, acclimatize outdoors and plant in the rockery.

Regardless if you prick out or not the seedlings from the sowing pot, you have to start to gradually acclimatize them outdoors in the spring. Take the trays out for fresh air when it is warming out, and bring them back in the house for the night.

Repeat a few times, while enjoying the spring flowers (April 2024)!

Corydalis solida

Draba dedeana

Hepatica americana, 2024

Pulsatilla ex. styriaca pink

Jeffersonia dubia

Helleborus ‘Cherry Blossoms’

Fritillaria collina, 2024

Pachyphrama macrophyllum

Primula macrocalyx, Lathyrus

April 26, 2024

Out in the woods – Hepatica americana

Propagation

…for admiring the second North American native Hepatica: Hepatica americana.
Again, even if there is a whole page dedicated to the Queen of the woodlands on the website and other images with these beauties, this is a celebratory period worth noticing.

In various shades of blue, white, sometimes purple and rarely pink, these little woodland wildflowers of spring are amongst the loveliest plants to be encountered when walking into the forest.
The only problem in April is to find a nice, sunny day when the flowers open (they remain close on rainy and cold days).

The pollination is preponderantly done by wind, although sometime early insects are tricked by the beautiful flowers on sunny days and accidentally may carry pollen to other flowers nearby (the flowers do not have nectar).

I have included on purpose an image where Hepatica americana among Gaultheria procumbens, also Chimaphila umbellata nearby, to emphasize that this species require a slightly acidic substrate for growing well.

Hepatica americana 2024-1

Hepatica americana 2024-2

Hepatica americana 2024-9

Hepatica americana 2024-3

Hepatica americana 2024-5

Hepatica americana 2024-4

Hepatica americana 2024-7

Hepatica americana ‘Apple Blossoms’

Hepatica americana 2024-8

Take a few minutes to read about Hepatica in general, and think about growing a few of these spring beauties in your garden, before fresh seeds become available (somewhere in late May-June).

Please also have a look at the Checklist for growing Hepatica from seeds.

The flower color may change in intensity from buds to the open flowers, and usually is more vivid in colder springs. This is a Hepatica color chart I’ve done one year to make sure we all speak the same ‘color language’ when talking about Hepatica americana and Hepatica acutiloba flower colors ;)

April 19, 2024

Reading seed coats

Propagation

Last week we had the simple answer to the ‘up’ and ‘down’ of a seed – sowing wise. Again, do not worry about the position of the seeds when sowing. Due to gravitropism, the radicles will always go ‘down’ and the cotyledon leaf(ves) ‘up’.

https://www.mobot.org/mobot/research/apweb/top/glossarya_h.html#A

For those willing to know more about this subject, theoretically we would be able to tell the up and down of a seed by ‘reading’ the few scars that remain on the seed coat during the seed formation (after fertilisation).

To explain more, a few botanical terms that may not be familiar to all will be used. For clarification I provide links to the excellent botany glossary developed on the Angiosperm Phylogeny Website from Missouri Botanical Garden.

I quote a paragraph from the introductory notes, because I think it should give us all a moment of meditation. Keep in mind that in nature nothing is ‘white & black’, there are endless variations to all situations.

Here we go.

On the seed coat we can identify 2 main scars: the micropyle and the hilum (in most species, but there are exceptions) that can be used to identify the ‘up’ and ‘down’ of a seed. In some cases we can also see a sort of ‘suture’ along the seed, called raphe, and various excrescences like the caruncle, which is usually near the micropyle.

It is useful to know from what type of ovule the seed was formed. For the vast majority of flowering plants the seeds are born from an anatropous ovule, so we will consider it as default. In this case, the micropyle is very close to the hilum.

Post-fertilization the micropyle remains as a small pore in the seed coat, which facilitates the entry of oxygen and water into the seed during germination. The radicle of the embryo will emerge through the micropyle.
So, by locating the micropyle on the seed surface, one would know which side is up and which one is down.
What’s simple in theory many times, it is not the same in practice. The micropyle doesn’t persist in all seeds, or it is impossible to see it with the naked eye. But the hilum is often a larger scar (at least on larger seeds), and we can search for it.

We can take Caulophyllum as an example, because for monitoring the embryo development I took many seeds images years ago.

*Also, keep in mind that for practical purposes sometimes we call various fruits ‘seeds’ (the achenes for examples). What we see in this case is the fruit surface not that of the seed coats.

In very rare cases the seeds are ‘born’ from an orthotropous (atropous) ovule. In this case the micropyle is on the same line, opposed to the hilum. A well-known species whose seeds are formed from such an ovule is Symplocarpus foetidus, the skunk cabbage. Same goes for Arisaema (and most of Araceae family).

The germination of skunk cabbage has intrigued me when I first observed it, because the radicle emerge almost at the same time or after with the shoots through the hilum. This has to do also with the fact that the seed embryo can have different sizes and positions in the seed: it can be straight, curved, convoluted and so on.

In the case of the skunk cabbage seeds, you would think there is no up and down at the beginning, but they figure it out soon after germination :-)

Without going into details, there are other sub-variants of the anatropous and orthotropus ovules; it is also worth noticing that in flowering plants most of the ovules are curved.

A simple example is the campylotropus ovule found in the legume family. In this case, the micropyle is almost touching the hilum (see Lespedeza germination).

So, in theory it looks good but imagine looking for the micropyle on a poppy seed :-) On the following plate, we can observe though that on the small seeds of Primula sieboldii, the micropyle/hilum area is visible.

A reminder about the SEEDs LIBRARY where those interested can try to locate, where possible, the micropyle/hilum area on various seeds.

1. Arisaema triphyllum (orthotropus ovule); From anatropus ovules 2. Amphicarpaea bracteata; 3. Disporum; 4. Streptopus amplexifolius; 5. Chamaecytisus hirsutus (with caruncle); 6. Primula sieboldii.

We have a particular situation in the Liliaceae family where by looking at the seeds through a backlight, usually we can see the embryo; even more so after the seeds are imbibed with water. So, it is fairly easy to tell the ‘up’ and the ‘down’ (at pointed end).

Lilium embryo

Fritillaria pudica seeds (imbibed)

Based on other images I have in my ‘germination library’, it looks like most times the root will emerge from the ‘pointed’ side of the seeds; however, not all seeds have such a side.

Asarum canadense germinated seeds

Paeonia suffruticosa germinated seeds

Asclepias exaltata germinated seeds

Epimedium ‘Amber Queen’ OP germination (warm,cold)

Trillium grandiflorum germinating seeds Oct. 7, 2017

Paris quadrifolia germinated seeds

To conclude, sometimes we could tell the up and down of a seed by ‘reading’ the seed coat, especially for medium size and large seeds, but this is not always the case. From the point of view of sowing I don’t think it matters, even for larger seeds. In nature, no one arranges them when they fall on the ground.
A nice weekend to all. Enjoy the season of ten thousand flowers!

April 5, 2024

Ups and downs

Propagation

I know that seeds germination is in the mind of all gardeners in early spring.
So, I will try to answer a question someone recently directed (as a comment): “Does anybody know the orientation of the root vs plant ends on the seeds?”

Due to spam attacks, I have been trying to block the comments, because of the huge amount of time needed to sort through the junk for the ‘good’ ones. Somehow they are sneaking through anyway. The above question seemed to be from a legitimate IP address, so let’s have a look at it.

If the question was related to sowing, here’s a simple answer. No matter how you place the seeds in the pots they will find their way, down and up! The roots will always orient in a downward direction and the shoots upwards due to gravitropism. It will not affect the germination or the health of the seedlings. Exceptions may apply only in case of very large seeds (next time about the skunk cabbage germination case); when in doubt, place them sideways.

The easiest way to exemplify this is by looking at seeds germinated out of pots from my ‘germination library’. Notice the Gentiana lutea germinating seeds in a Petri dish positioning by themselves with the roots ‘down’ and the plumule ‘up’. Also, an old image of a Sanguinaria canadensis seedling (part) found in the plastic bag ‘hanging’ to a vermiculite particle. An even better illustration comes from a ‘piece’ of Stylophorum lasiocarpum seedlings grown together in vermiculite in the stratification bag. No one arranged or told them which side is ‘up’ and which is ‘down’.

Gentiana lutea germinated seeds with GA3 solution

Sanguinaria canadensis germinated seed in moist vermiculite

Stylophorum lasiocarpum germinated seeds in Ziploc bag

A couple more images showing germinated seeds of Helleborus caucasicus and Podophyllum peltatum (Mayapple) in moist towel.
I added a few explanatory notes (click to open the gallery): regardless of the the position the seeds, the radicles are always heading ‘down’ (meaning the ‘down’ of towel). The seeds who were not in the ideal position, start curving their radicle immediately to grow it in the ‘right direction’. This is one of the reasons I do not germinate seeds in moist towel anymore: the radicles get tangled easily in the towel and are very easy to break when taken out.

Podophyllum peltatum germinated seeds 3

Helleborus caucasicus germinated seeds 2

Next time we’ll talk a bit more ‘serious’ about this subject, with a recap of the plant ovules and the post-fertilization marks that can be ‘read’ on the seedcoat surface. Maybe that will scare the spammers away ;-)

Meanwhile, Happy Easter to all celebrating with a message of peace, joy, hope and happiness!

March 29, 2024

Happy sowings

Propagation

An update for this previous post, to show some newly emerged seedlings after using the Miracle Gro mix instead of the Fafard sowing mix: Minuartia michauxii, Silene saxifraga and Silene suecica. There is no need of so many seedlings, reason why I always say – take care when sowing very fine seeds.

Minuartia michauxii seedlings

Silene saxifraga seedlings

Silene suecica seedlings

It is also the time to prick out some of the grown-up seedlings before they become too crowded. Those who need help in this regard please see the: Transplanting and pricking seedlings post from 2020.

With the cold snap upon us, these are very good days to do a bit more warm sowings ;) and/or transplant seedlings.
Mimulus lewisii seedlings (from wild coll. seeds in BC and offered in the fall Seeds List); they should have been transplanted ‘yesterday’, so it’s their turn today.

Mimulus lewisii seedlings

March 22, 2024

Re-starting warm sowings

Propagation

Minuartia michauxii, Stiff sandwort, germinated, fast elongated seedlings in the Fafard mix (all vanished in 2 days)

A weird phenomenon is happening with my indoor sowings one species after another: the seedlings would start to elongate excessively right away after germination, just to vanish in a blink of an eye afterwards (exemplified with Minuartia michauxii). Species like Minuartia, Silene, Luetkea and others like them have done the worst; a few more vigorous ones like Campanula alliarifolia and C. glomerata have surviving seedlings that will be pricked out soon.

It is not the regular damping off of seedlings; I had it happening as well over the years, albeit very rarely. You can read in the following post, how to avoid the damping off for indoor sowing: https://www.gardenmyths.com/damping-off-disease-prevention-treatment/#Preventing_Damping_Off_Disease

I started to analyze what’s different than in the previous years. I am using the same method of sowing, clean pots, the same indoor lights (set at the same height) and the room temperature is as usual.

There is only one thing different: the sowing mix! This year, not having my usual around I used a Fafard I recently purchased. I went to look at the bag more closely. My usual sowing media in the last years has been the Miracle Gro or Pro Mix, to which I added vermiculite or perlite. Comparing the two, we can see the ratio of fertilizers the Fafard mix has. Another difference is that it contains coconut husk but that usually improves the mix drainage and aeration and it shouldn’t be a problem.

Fertilizers ratio comparison (N:P:K) I think this Fafard mix should read: Soil mix for sprouts to eat, like they show in the picture.

I see no other explanation for the excessive and rapid elongation of newly germinated seedlings: the excess of nitrogen and the salt concentration in the little sowing pot cause the fast ‘melting’ of the seedlings. When the concentration of fertilizer is too high in a larger pot, it can be washed out and reduced with each watering, but newly germinated seedlings do not need a lot of watering.

I do not want to waste my time investigating further. In Canada, unfortunately, we do not have standards for the bagged sowing and potting soils, anything goes. It is of course also my fault for not watching closely what’s written on the bag. How many people are doing it? You just grab the bag on the way to the check-out.

Newly germinated seedlings, talking mostly perennials for rockery here not tomatoes and petunias, do not actually need any fertilizer for a while. The introduction of a diluted fertilizer is welcomed later after they have grown up a while, or after pricking. What can one do besides complaining? I sowed again yesterday in Miracle Gro (where seeds still were still available) plus we can learn from my mistake. I will post an update later.

I mentioned before that it is not good to sow a whole pck. of seeds (keep ½ in case ‘accidents’ happen), now I will add the following to the general sowing advice: have a good look at the added fertilizers in the sowing mix and before sowing a whole flat of pots, better do a trial with a few seeds that germinate very fast. Wait a week to see how the seedlings do and only go full blown sowing after that.

To finish on the bright side, the first seeds of Hepatica are starting to germinate (kept outdoors) and Hepatica transsilvanica is starting to bloom :)

March 15, 2024

Timing the sowing in springtime

Propagation

The Crocuses, snowdrops, the first Hepatica in bloom and others announce that spring is in the air, a bit too early this year. It is an exciting time with renewed hope when we all think about new plants to add to the garden and new ones to start from seeds.

Some people plan well ahead about what to grow from seeds; others purchase seeds and plants on the impulse of the moment or after they see nice spring flowering pictures. Then, there are always seeds arriving late from seed exchanges.

Usually late spring orders have in common a combination of species, warm and cold germinators, so I feel obliged to repeat how to proceed at this time in order to obtain the best results with minimum effort. Good timing for sowing is important because seeds can also enter sometimes a second dormancy if not handled improperly.

This is a repeat of an older post with some updates. If you don’t need advice, jump to the end of the post for the first flowers of spring 2024 :-)

Species that are indicated to germinate at warm (15-20C) can be sown right away if you use indoor lighting for growing seedlings or later (April/early May) if you intend to keep the pots outdoors, or to sow the seeds directly on the ground (‘in situ’).
Species that can be sowed ‘in situ’ (Papaver, Lobelia, Campanulastrum, some Viola species.…) – wait until April/early May and cast the seeds in place, incorporating lightly (most such seeds are fine and need light to germinate), keep the area moist and if there are too many critters around you have to place a mesh on top of the sowing location.

Various Fabaceae can be treated with the ‘hot water treatment’ and considered warm germinators. Testing gave good to excellent results for Hedysarum, Oxytropis, Astragalus, Baptisia, Thermopsis, Lupinus*. It seems that Anthyllis and Lespedeza violacea seeds also reacts to this treatment, only that it has to be repeated many times.
See in the pictures below, how large the Lespedeza seeds that imbibe with water look like; only one seed from that batch is ready to be sown. The roots appear in about a week after that.

Lespedeza violacea after HWT

Lespedeza violacea germination start

The alternative to the HWT is of course the old fashioned method of scarification using sheets of sandpaper.

Species indicated: sow in the fall/winter or as cold/moist stratification – I advise you to keep the seeds packets in the fridge until fall, and then proceed with sowing (in pots or ‘in situ’). You can of course try to provide cold/moist stratification in the fridge, but don’t expect the same good results. Also, you may end up with seeds germinating in June/July and young seedlings by late fall which will withstand poorly the winter cold.

Species indicated to have double dormancy which require first a slightly warm cycle, followed by a cold one in order to germinate (like Hydrophyllum, Euonymus, Actaea and most peonies species) should be sown later in the summer (late June/July/August). This will give them more than enough time to develop the roots until late fall, before the cold cycle begins in the winter. The same goes for two stage warm germinating Lilium species (L. michiganense, L. canadense, L. kesselringianum…).
Again, these cycles can be provided in the house + fridge, but it is too late now to obtain good seedlings by late fall. It is of course anyone’s choice, I can only recommend the best method.

Moist packed seeds: are not sold at this time of the year, with the exception of two years germinators (Caulophyllum, Medeola, when stock supply and temperatures allow). When to sow and how to handle them has been outlined in other posts.

Orchids and other mycorrhizals (Chimaphila, Conopholis): if not using ‘in vitro’ equipment, there is a slight chance that by incorporating the seeds in the garden close to where other orchids/preferred hosts thrive will be successful. This method gave good results also for Castilleja but with the seeds sowed in late fall.