Green hedgehogs addendum

Dianthus nardiformis, winter look

Lacking inspiration, I thought let’s see what was published in January of previous years; and the Green hedgehogs post from Jan 2022 was just what I needed. It seems we have longer and longer snowless periods in the winter, so all perennials and shrubs that retain their ‘good looks’ all year long are now more precious than ever.
*All pictures shown in these posts are from early spring or late fall/winter.

Those who had the curiosity to open the post, noticed that I was talking mainly about perennials which have more or less a dome shaped growing habit and more or less linear/acicular leaves; usually grown in rockeries. Various Dianthus species, that many people are familiar with, are the best examples for this category.

I already expanded on the term ‘hedgehogs’ by including other types of foliage, akin more to porcupines and various other creatures, the term hedgehog being used in regards with a mounding or dome shape growth habit.

Expanding on the term ‘green’, colorful foliage will be an extra bonus. Quite a few Dianthus species have bluish foliage, in many Androsace, the rosettes will take a ‘winter mood’, in the spring reverting to green. A group of Saxifrages have silvery rosettes, also Vitaliana primuliflora ssp. cinerea (in the feature image); even Veronica incana retains a nice silvery foliage over the winter. And these are just a few examples from my small rockery.

Dianthus moravicus foliage

Androsace villosa ssp. taurica winter look

Armeria maritima Rubrifolia copy

Orostachys ‘Strawberry Spring’

Then, we can talk about individual hedgehogs or herd-like creatures, like in the case of many Androsace species, Draba and Saxifraga, Jovibarba, Sedums and Sempervivums and the recently presented Luetkea pectinata.
Size wise, we can have very tiny hedgehogs, like Kernera saxatilis and Sedum atratum to very large ones if we jump into the shrubs realm with Daphne ‘Lauwrence Crocker’ (note to myself to try again some small size Daphne species/cultivars) and Paxistima canbyi, Canby’s mountain lover (Read about it here: Winter Joys).

Kernera saxatilis rosette

Sedum atratum self-sown on Erinus alpinus

Daphne ‘Lawrence Crocker’

Other plants with a winter presence not often talked about are Polygala species.
Polygala chamaebuxus, the shrubby milkwort of European origin, which can be taken for a small Daphne from the distance ;) deserves a mention. I previously shown the beautiful Polygala major; its winter foliage also takes a purple hue (the same goes for our native Polygala paucifolia).

Polygala chamaebuxus, December

Polygala major Dec. 25, 2023

Even more, we can form green mounds in the garden by letting groundcovering species, a thyme in the picture, to trail over larger boulders. It just happened in this case, but we also can plan in the advance for such ‘accidents’.

Plus let’s not forget that rocks covered in moss also make for great green ‘hedgehogs’ (Winter joys III) and in proper conditions you can even establish other species on top of them! (see Saxifraga cuneifolia ssp. robusta).

Thyme with Dianthus deltoides on top

A mossy rock!

Again, there is so much to do in the winter time, both plants and garden-wise: learn about new species and how to grow them, make new plans for your garden and, of course, don’t forget to sow more seeds!

 

Onward to 2024!

Galanthus elwesii Dec. 28, 2023, SW Ontario

Due to mild weather a particularly early snowdrop is already above the ground; on the same time, snowdrops seedlings are growing under lights! Such events need to be captured for record keeping.
So, instead of the regular year-end flowers review, I’ll write a bit about the excitement of first time collecting and sowing seeds from my own snowdrops this year.

It is not that such seeds will find their way in the Seed List in the near future (I have plenty of garden space to fill in with these treasures), but there is always something to learn from the process. I already wrote this season about snowdrops and Cyclamen capsules in this July post for those who missed it: Summertime capsules.

The snowdrops are the true spring harbingers, forget about Crocus and Eranthis. True that sometimes they are a bit too early in our climate and will spend time under snow, but snow will come and go while the flower buds remain. Under their delicate appearance, they are very tough little things.

I’ve been working hard to increase their presence in the garden: bought bulbs from the garden centers (usually low quality), received seeds from with friends, and I even bought a few seeds one year. Besides dividing the clumps every few years, sowing seeds is a good method to increase their numbers and also to obtain a good variability.

One particular Galanthus elwesii (or a hybrid?) is the earliest among all other snowdrops every year. It is fascinating to see any flower buds in the winter in our climate! Only Helleborus foetidus, H. niger and Cyclamen coum can also claim this status.
Here it is pictured last year on January 1 2023, then at the beginning of February, beginning  and ending of March!

Galanthus elwesii Jan.1, 2023

Galanthus elwesii Feb. 8, 2023

Galanthus elwesii March 1,2023

Galanthus elwesii March 26, 2023

With the exception of years with heavy snow and extreme temperatures, by late February other snowdrops will start to peek through the snow, or leaves (depending on the sun exposure), and by late March more will be in flower. After emerging they will often spend time again under the snow, but they always rebound; nothing beats these little snowdrops.

Galanthus 2023

Galanthus nivalis 2023

Galanthus April 2023

Having had a very nice spring in 2023, meaning no late snow or frosts, some flowers were pollinated and fruits developed. By mid-June I was going around collecting fatty, yellow ‘drops’. The fruits (fleshy capsules) will lay on the ground when mature and open to release the seeds which will be carried away by ants attracted by their elaiosomes. For this reason, it is best to collect the capsules gradually when you see that they start turning yellow.

Galanthus green capsule 2023

Galanthus mature capsules 2023

Galanthus seeds June 15 2023

Galanthus seeds are hydrophilic and they will germinate best when sown soon after collecting, just like it happens naturally. Dry kept seeds sown later, will also germinate but usually in the second spring after sowing (depending how dry they get and maybe not 100%).

Due to the very large squirrel population in our neighborhood, which are going through the garden beds like wild boars, especially in early spring when young seedlings show up, I sowed some of the seeds in pots somewhere towards the end of June to give them a better chance. You can see the results!

There is no other better message of hope for 2024 than newly germinated seedlings!

We can start dreaming about a more peaceful year, with all people being able to enjoy a garden, the flowers and all other beautiful things that nature offers to us!

Onward to 2024 and don’t forget to sow a few seeds in the New Year!

 Last seeds of the season

We somehow arrived at the last seeds announcement of the year!

As it happens, all species are warm germinators or require first a warm/moist stratification period. Because someone once told me that he couldn’t grow a certain species from lack of indoor lights – I should, once again, write an explanation.

All species indicated as warm germinators, including those that require first a warm/moist stratification, can be started by:
Sowing indoors at any time (some may require cold/moist stratification in the fridge afterwards);
OR by sowing in pots outdoors in early spring or summer and allowed to follow the natural variations in temperature (my preferred method for Lilium and Paeonia).

On to the last seeds in alphabetical order:
Bukiniczia cabulica  (yes, I finally sorted them out)
Lilium martagon ‘Album’
Maackia amurensis
Pinus parvilfora ‘Glauca’

                                                                     Examples for warm germinators:
Buckiniczia cabulica –  the seeds germinate at room temperature without any additional treatment.
Sow indoors in late Feb-March if you want to gain a bit of extra growing time;
OR sow outdoors in late April- May (depending on location).

Lilium martagon ‘Album’ – the seeds require first a warm/moist stratification followed by a cold/moist stratification for complete germination.
Sow indoors at any time – preferably in a Ziploc bag with moist media to easily notice the bulbils formations (+/- 2 months,) and then provide cold stratification in the fridge;
OR sow outdoors in pots in late summer, and take care of the pots as usual.

Processing and sorting out newly collected seeds is always slowed down during the high selling season – both time-intensive activities happening simultaneously during the fall.

Therefore, double thanks to all the customers who not only purchased seeds this season, but also patiently waited for new species to be added to the Seeds List, placing successive orders.

Bukiniczia cabulica flowering/fruiting stems




 

 

New seeds and Glaucium flavum portrait

I’ve been busy preparing the garden and seedlings for the winter, so only two new species, both drought resistant, were added to the Seeds List this week.
Campanula alliariifolia – a vigorous and floriferous bellflower with large white flowers. I intend to grow it for the edge of the woodland beds.

Glaucium flavum, the Sea poppy, or Yellow horned poppy – a biennial or short-lived perennial for sunny, dry areas of the garden.

Glaucium flavum, sea poppy in wild habitat (Spain) showing mature fruits

And because there is a story behind the seeds of the horn poppy, a short portrait for it.
Glaucium flavum has a large geographical distribution from N. Africa to Europe and Caucasus, and it is also naturalized in other regions, but has become endangered in many of its native habitats on the shorelines and coastal cliffs of the Mediterranean and the Black Sea.

I had the occasion to see it growing wild years back, on the shorelines of the Mediterranean Sea in Cabo de Gata, Spain.
Glaucium flavum wild type displays rosettes of blue-grey, deeply sectate leaves covered in long, white hairs, an adaptation to the harsh, dry and windy conditions it grows in, like many other species that occur in the same habitat.

The flower stems are erect and bear bright, yellow flowers, which are followed by narrow, 20-30 cm long capsules – the ‘horns’ from the common name, horned poppy.

I collected a few seeds but didn’t try to germinate them for a few years thinking that due to the origin, it would have no chance of surviving in Ontario.

But two years ago I gave them a try during the winter sowing experiments time. The germination was easy, the seedlings grew well, and were successfully transplanted in the garden.

Winter came, then spring arrived and the rosettes were still OK; I even transplanted a couple (it forms a taproots, I recommend to plant it in the final location).

Glaucium flavum December 2022

Glaucium flavum

Glaucium flavum, 25 Sept. 2023

It started flowering in the summer and it continued sporadically into the fall. It grew taller and a bit more sprawling, as opposed to its mother-plant. This can be explained of course by the different climate here, with more rain during the summer, plus that it hasn’t been too hot this year and it wasn’t planted in pure sand.

Glaucium flavum is an interesting addition for a xeric garden, standing out the whole season due to its beautiful silvery foliage and bright, yellow flowers. Even if biennial, it is worth to repeat the sowing because it is very easy to grow, plus, it can also reseed by itself. In out climate although it formed many capsules, they didn’t contain too many seeds.

Propagation by seeds
It is easy to germinate after a few weeks of cold/moist stratification in the dark at 5-10 C; after the first signs of seedlings, bring the pot under the lights. Or you can germinate the seeds naturally outdoors by sowing in early spring (in our cold climate).

 

Glaucidium palmatum – experimenting on germination 2

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Glaucidium palmatum germination wrapping-up 

One of the orders this week asking for Glaucidium seeds, reminded me that I haven’t posted my latest adventures regarding Glaucidium germination. I’ll do it now as a final revision for the Germination page.

Glaucidium germinating seeds after GA3 treatment

Having a bit too many older seeds left (2 & 3 years old), last winter I decided to see how they would germinate using GA3. Two and 3 years old seeds are not considered really ‘old’ for most species, but it was good to clarify the matter.
I wrapped all seeds in moist paper towels imbibed with GA3 solution 1000 ppm and left them like that for 1 day (inside a Ziploc bag). After that, I transferred the seeds into other moist paper towels (water), inside a Ziploc bag and kept them on the kitchen countertop. There were too many seeds and I considered this to be the easiest one in order to see what happens.

After about a week, some seeds were starting to germinate (featured image, Feb. 6). Great, I said, I’ll have a pot with seedlings, which is fine. But things were starting to accelerate and by Feb. 13, ALL the seeds were germinating, with the roots growing at the speed of light!

What to do? How to throw them away?! I learned my lesson about keeping too many seedlings of the same species….Still, I potted them up crowding 10+ seeds/pot. They grew for a while like it’s their habit only with cotyledon leaves, and then somewhere in late March/April they started to become dormant (again their habit).  At this point the pots will not look very nice but we have to let them enter dormancy in a ‘normal’ way.

Glaucidium palmatum seedlings March 1, 2023

Glaucidium palmatum seedlings May 10, 2023

Glaucidium dormant seedlings; if you remove a bit of mix from the top, future growing buds are visible.

Sometimes, after a short dormancy, a few seedlings will start to grow the true leaf; it didn’t happen this time probably due to the lack of soil in pots. ‘Empty’ looking pots were kept relatively moist (but not wet) and in late spring they were put outdoors in a shaded location. At some point in late June, I had a look to see what’s happening – all was well: seedlings in happy dormancy.

In early fall I assumed responsibility for the crowded seedlings, removed all from pots and replanted some in a large rectangle container, and some in other pots. Next spring the seedlings will start growing true leaves and they really need more space.

It is always a wonder how during only a few months of active growth the cotyledon leaves can support the growth of such large rootlets!

Some seedlings were shared bareroot with a friend in the fall, and more will follow next year. I do not plan opening a nursery ;)

So, this is method 1 of germinating Glaucidium palmatum using GA3; easily done. Do not start the seeds too early in the winter like I did.

Glaucidium palmatum dormant seedlings, August, 2023 – bareroot to be transplanted; every group shows how many seedlings grew in a 4 in pot!

Method 2:

GA3 is not absolutely necessary – I posted on another occasion the picture below with the note “a picture is worth a thousand words”. You just need more time for all seeds to germinate.

Glaucidium palmatum 1 and 2 years-old seedlings

The image is self-explanatory: for seeds sown regularly in pots in late fall/winter – some will germinate in the first spring (after cold/moist stratification); the rest of the seeds will germinate only after a warm cycle/followed by cold  – ie. the second spring.

For this reason, you can observe seedlings with cotyledon leaves only and seedlings with the true leaf in the same pot. Do not prick out the germinated seeds in the first year!

In all cases, the seedlings can be repotted easily when dormant in bigger pots. In the 3th year they should be planted in the ground. All rhizomatous species grow much better when they have more space to grow their root system.

The only phase when Glaucidium young seedlings can be lost is during dormancy if they receive too much water (from rains or overwatering).
To avoid this, keep the pots in a box with a lid, close to the house under eavestrough, in a shaded cold frame, or use any other method that would prevent the pots from drying too much (and encourage you to overwater) or to be rained on a lot.

This concludes once and for all experimenting with Glaucidium seeds from various sources. My first experiments were done in 2014!  Nothing else remains to be said.

With or without GA3, Glaucidium seeds are not more difficult to germinate than other rhizomatous species; sometimes they require 2 years for complete germination = patience. You don’t even need super fresh seeds as according with a germination myth about Glaucidium.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Marvellous Gentiana

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There are a few seeds of Gentiana paradoxa hybrid to share this fall, so the time has come to talk about the marvelous group of so called fall Gentianas: Gentiana paradoxa, Gentiana septemfida and their hybrids.

On we go!

Gentiana paradoxa is an endemic species with limited distribution in the Western Caucasus region.
In some cases, pictures shown over the net as Gentiana paradoxa are in fact hybrids. This species cross-pollinates easily with Gentiana septemfida both in the wild and in the garden; and in fact, this is a good thing (https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:368636-1)

Records show that Gentiana paradoxa was named by Russian botanist Nikolai Michailovic Albov in 1894 from specimens collected on the calcareous slopes of Mt. Kherebet Mamdzyhkhara, Abkhazia at 1300 m altitude (various spellings, Mt. Mamdzyshkha).

The specific epithet “paradoxa” means is – “contrary to expectation, paradoxical, marvellous”. It is indeed a marvellous species, with upright stems up to 20-25 cm, linear or narrow lanceolate leaves arranged in whorls and single large, blue, fringed flowers at the top of the stems. A mature specimen is truly magnificent.

Gentiana paradoxa 2023

Gentiana paradoxa, October 2021

I was lucky to received wild collected seeds a few years ago, so the specimen shown here represents the true species. You can easily tell if a Gentiana paradoxa is pure species simply after the foliage, which in optimal conditions turns a beautiful yellow in late fall. Also, there are single flowers at the top of the stems, as opposed to clusters in G. septemfida.

Amazingly, it is not a difficult species in culture. Do not believe the wiki statement “However, it is not particularly easy to grow, requiring moist, well-drained, lime-free soil and a position in full sun.” As you can see, they didn’t do their homework well, like it often happens.

Gentiana septemfida

Gentiana septemfida

It is a more commonly cultivated species and also with a larger geographical distribution: from N. & E. Türkiye to N. Iran, overlapping with Gentiana paradoxa in the Transcaucasus region. It grows from the upper forest to the alpine zones. It was first described from the alpine region of eastern Caucasus. (https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:368901-1)

The flowering stems have a trailing habit with ovoid, ovoid-lanceolate or lanceolate leaves and blue flowers usually in crowded clusters at the top of the stems. There are rare forms mentioned having only one or 2-3 flowers (f. uniflora and f. pauciflora). There are other differences from G. paradoxa flower-wise, but there is no need to go into more botanical details.

Gentiana paradoxa x septemfida hybrids

These two beautiful species easily hybridize in the wild when growing in the same area and also in the garden. The seedlings will display intermediate characters in various degrees, as well as the foliage, flowers and flowering time! By looking at my hybrid clump (a bunch of seedlings were planted together), they tend to take mainly after Gentiana septemfida, flowers and habit wise, having trailing flowering stems.

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid August

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid, Sept. 17

However, flowering time wise they take more after Gentiana paradoxa, all starting to flower in the first part of August and lasting into September. A Gentiana septemfida, which I also have in the garden, flowers much earlier, in mid-July.

The nr. of flowers/cluster vary, some with up to 8-10 flowers! Something similar goes around under the name of G. paradoxa hybrid ‘Blue Herald’. With Gentiana paradoxa raised from wild collected seeds growing nearby, the possibilities of even more beautiful hybrids are endless. They are going to be the result of a double cross with Gentiana paradoxa!

There is just one problem: the results of pollination were quite poor, both in true Gentiana paradoxa and the hybrids, signaling a limited self-pollination or maybe a lack of enough pollinators. Careful selecting is necessary in order to separate the good seeds.

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid seeds selection. A very small number of good seeds were formed, considering the large number of flowers

Growing these species and their hybrids from seeds

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid seedlings – picture just taken; they were transferred in a bigger pot as a bunch in late summer. Next spring, a delicate division of the seedlings will be done in individual pots.

These beautiful late summer/early fall flowering gentian species and their hybrids are very easy to grow from seeds and they are also quite adaptable as garden plants.

Why doesn’t this phenomenon happen more often?! They deserve a medal of merit especially for enduring well our hot & humid summers!

The seeds germinate in the spring after cold-moist stratification. I usually sow in late fall and leave the pots outdoors over the winter (with some protection, boxes under the snow, cold frame…).  In the first season, the seedlings don’t grow a lot, but then they will make a leap forward.
GA3 treatment is also an option if you want to start them in early spring indoors (beware the elongation of the seedlings though).

The few seeds of last year were sown, and with more plants around, hopefully the pollination and harvest of good seeds may increase. Plus, the more marvelous gentiana plants in the garden, the better!

On we go!
Gentiana paradoxa hybrids
Back in stock
Parnassia glauca
Delphinium exaltatum

The SEEDs LIST

Happy Thanksgiving to all Canadian customers!

Seeds & Printer

The printer went out of order as of yesterday afternoon unfortunately; just when you need it most…
So, for a limited time the seeds packets will arrive at destinations with hand written labels. I think it is better to go on like this than to delay the shipping of orders at this time of the year. Thank you for your understanding!

The latest seeds collected:

Maianthemum racemosum, False Solomon’s seal – probably the last offering of the season from the moist-packed seeds category.
Other species from the wild side – Desmodium nudiflorum, Naked flowered tick-trefoil and the Running strawberry- bush, Euonymus obovatus.

Thanks to a very generous donor, there are also more species peonies seeds in stock! Beside the regular offerings (usually low in stock) there is also  a new, lovely white form of Paeonia anomala ssp. veitchii.
For most peonies that first need a warm/moist stratification period, it is a bit late for regular sowing in our climate. For those new to growing peonies from seeds I’ve updated a bit this former article: Growing peonies from seeds.

 The Seed List

Enjoy the fall flowers & colors and get inspired!

Euonymus obovatus

Aralia nudicaulis and Uvularia

Symphyotrichum cordifolium

Solidago caesia, wreath goldenrod

Anemone virginiana

Ilex verticillata

Arisaema amurense

Arisaema amurense-dark form seeds are in stock. What other better occasion to talk a bit about it? Truth is, I had this post half prepared since last year, so it came in handy.

Arisaema amurense is a cold hardy species with a large geographically distribution on the East coast of Asia: China North-Central, China Southeast, Inner Mongolia, Khabarovsk, Korea, Manchuria, Primorye and Sakhalin. (https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:85565-1)

Just like our native Jack in the pulpit, it comes in a wide range of forms regarding the height, spathe color and leaf size.
Mature, flowering plants have leaves with 5 folioles and usually the flowers are green striped with white; seeds of this form were offered a few years ago.

The inside of the flowers can also be brownish green or purple green with white stripes. Usually they are held on short stalks below or among the foliage.

The mother-plant of this form was grown from ORG&HP seedex, and the seeds were donated under the name of A. triphyllum ssp. quinatum (which anyway is tender and can’t be grown in our zone 5-6 climate). Most probably that it still goes in various garden circles under the wrong name.

Arisaema amurense dark striped form

Arisaema amurense dark form

The seedlings first develop a leaf with only 3 folioles, sometimes even the 2 years old plants. A flowering size mature plant has the typical 5-foliolate leaf, which you can see in the picture below. It is quite different than A. triphyllum ssp. quinatum: the folioles are broadly ovate in shape and can be slightly serrated on the margins.

Arisaema amurense leaf. In our climate, Arisaema amurense is the first Arisaema species to emerge from the ground, even earlier than our native Jack in the pulpit. This is a very cold hardy species, so if you are looking to expand your Arisaema garden ‘repertoire’ do not be afraid to give it a try.

The fruits on my plant develop an orange color at maturity, as opposed with A. triphyllum which turns deep, shiny red but maybe it cannot be generalized. I have a plate showing the differences in fruit color: Arisaema triphyllum, Arisaema amurense and Arisaema flavum (another hardy species, easy to grow from seeds). The seeds are similar, size and shape wise.

Arisaema amurense is very easy to grow from seeds. The seeds germinate at room temperature, so it can be started indoors in early spring or outdoors in late spring.
10-15 seeds are quite perfect for sowing a 3-4 inch pot in which to leave the seedlings grow for at least 2 years before planting the tubers in the ground. Arisaema seedlings do not need pricking out, reason why always sow the seeds in a slightly larger pot in which to have room to grow for 2-3 years (or transfer the little tubers when dormant in a new pot).

As garden companions use various species that also enjoy a part-shaded location, in a rich garden soil: Saruma henryi, Hydrastis canadensis, Aristolochia, Glaucidium palmatum, Epimedium, Helleborus, Podophyllum, Hepatica, Brunnera….to mention just a few.

It might start forming a colony if it likes the place but sharing Arisaema tubers with other Arisaema enthusiasts is always fun to do!

Back in stock

It seems that ‘explorers’ of the Seed List  are already finding some of the species I had the intention to announce on Friday. For this reason, a ‘back in stock’ post today, before they get out of stock ;) Unfortunately, the inventory is always short for some species.

North American native species back in stock:
 Dodecatheon hendersonii
Gillenia trifoliata
Ipomopsis aggregata
Monardella odoratissima
Spigelia marilandica

Species from various corners of the world:
Iris tectorum ‘Album’
Gentiana dahurica
Swertia perennis
Ziziphora clinopodioides

!Wait until Friday if you are also interested in Arisaema amurense – dark form!

Spigelia marilandica

Ziziphora clinopodioides

Iris tectorum ‘Album’

Ipomopsis aggregata

Swertia perennis

Fingers crossed for a long, nice fall for various species to be able to mature their seeds: Amphicarpaea bracteata, Delphinium exaltatum, Parnassia glauca, Ipomopsis rubra, Iris domestica…plus few other ‘good things’ still in flower like: Allium pseudojaponicum and  Gentiana paradoxa hybrid.

Next week we will also know more about Maianthemum racemosum, Symplocarpus foetidus and Disporum uniflorum – probably the last moist packed seeds offerings for the season. Meanwhile, there are still various species left in stock from this category, but do not wait for too long.

About Luetkea pectinata

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Luetkea pectinata, Partridgefoot, is an endemic plant of Western North America, in alpine and subalpine areas, extending from Alaska, Yukon, British Columbia, and east into Northwest Territories, Alberta, Idaho, and Montana, as well as South into Washington, Oregon and California. Apparently it is a common plant in BC, in alpine and subalpine zones, but not everyone has the chance to reach these places so I thought a plant portrait would be useful.

The partridge foot, is a ground hugging, evergreen sub-shrub forming extensive mats along rocky slopes, in meadows of moist open coniferous forest at subalpine and alpine level, where the snow cover usually start melting late toward early summer.
It is stoloniferous, reason why in favorable locations it can cover large areas, to an extent hard to imagine, until one sees it. You will also notice in pictures that with the help of stolons, it can easily populate the surface of large boulders, if it finds a thin layer of substrate to grow on, or it will grow in the boulders crevices.
It is also found growing in heathlands associations with Phyllodoce empetrifolia and Cassiope mertensiana, which is a good hint about the type of substrate it requires (pictures taken in Revelstoke area and Glacier National Park).

Luetkea pectinata meadow with Phyllodoce empetriformis

Luetkea pectinata with Antennaria lanata in an alpine meadow

Luetkea pectinata growth habit, stolons

Seeds will be offered (in limited quantity) in the fall Seeds List, so take hints for cultivation from this information. We always need to try to emulate the natural growing conditions, especially for species growing at high elevations. It would make for an excellent crevice plant in a moist rockery.

The species was first collected in Sitka, Alaska and the genus Luetkea, with its only species L. pectinata, commemorates the early 1800s German-Russian military man and Arctic explorer with the name of Friedrich Benjamin Graff von Lutke (or Fydor Petrovich Litke), who charted the Alaskan coast in 1827.

Luetkea pectinata, Partridge foot, in flower in late July, Revelstoke area, BC

The common name Partridge foot, alludes to the fan-shaped leaves which are crowded in tick tufts, and upon a superficial look, one can think it resembles at a Saxifraga. However, the genus belongs to the rose family (Rosaceae, more specifically related with Spiraea). Some sources also call it Alaska Spiraea. Also, the specific epithet ‘pectinata’ alludes to the foliage, meaning ‘scalloped’ in Latin.

The flowers are white-creamy on dense, elongated clusters about 10 cm high, and later capsule-like, aggregate of follicles develop, which take a red color close to maturation; same it happens with the foliage, especially in exposed situations. The late summer/fall red coloration during fruiting enhances its appeal.

The dry follicles will open in late summer to release the fine, linear seeds about 3 mm long.
By the aspect of growing mats, it seems that its main propagation in the wild is happening by stolons.

Propagation: cuttings/detaching rosettes would be the easiest way to go, but we only have the option of growing it from seeds. According with various sources, the seeds will germinate at room temperature, without any need of cold stratification, which is good news. The seeds being very fine, we have to sow superficial and top up the pot with fine gravel or other such substrate to prevent the seeds desiccation. Use a very porous mix by adding perlite to a regular sowing mix, and keep evenly moist.

Another method I mentioned often for fine, small seeds is to enclose the pot in a plastic bag until the germination starts, then use the bag as a sort of coverall until the seedlings gain strength.
And of course, we can use the dome trays that many people found very handy. I never use heating mats for seeds germination, although they are often mentioned in various protocols, so I think they are not really necessary.

Luetkea pectinata seeds and fruits aspect; 1 mm grid

You can read detailed propagation protocols for it and other related species (see also Vaccinium membranaceum ;) here: https://www.fs.usda.gov/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm06232815/page19.htm

The reason this species is rarely seen in cultivation, at least in Canada, is probably due to the difficulty of establishing the seedlings. Probably SW Ontario location is too dry to grow it, but those in up-north regions, BC and Eastern provinces, should have better chances to cultivate this beautiful native wildflower.
We won’t know until we give it a try!

Early August Seeds updates

Start your wish list and be ready for the late summer Shop re-opening!
Various species should have priority for late summer sowing, requiring a slightly warm cycle before the cold one (winter) for best germination.
From this category, just collected and in the process of cleaning/sorting out:

Hydrastis canadensis
Paeonia officinalis (+ few other peonies will be ready soon)

Wild collections:

Erythronium grandiflorum
Streptopus amplexifolius – dark fruit form

Erythronium grandiflorum in habitat

Streptopus amplexifolius – dark fruit

I have had good results by sowing previously collected Eryhtronium grandiflorum seeds directly in the ground, and I recommend this method now, especially for those not very experienced in growing bulbous species from seeds, like myself :)

What else? Incarvillea delavayi, Gladiolus tenuis and Salvia austriaca from the garden; Anemone (Pulsatilla) occidentalis, Erigeron peregrinus and Leptarrhena pyrolifolia (Leatherleaf saxifrage) – wild, to mention just a few.
Until next…

From the working bench: seeds collecting

The seeds collecting is in high drive nowadays. For some species, all fruits mature and are collected at the same time, for others it is an on-going process.

BotanyCa seeds, clockwise: Dianthus carthusianorum, Centaurea jankae, Penstemon saxosorum, Aristolochia steupii, Paeonia veitchii, Actaea x ludovici (only for show) and Trillium grandiflorum (capsules just about to release the seeds, which will be moist packed right away)

When collecting fruits & seeds of the dry type (capsules, achenes…) either for yourself or for trading with friends and various seeds exchanges, always use paper holders, envelopes, any other type of paper-made envelopes and my favorites: coffee filters!
They are absorbent and you can easily write on them. Fold them neatly to form a nice envelope when collecting and/or leave them open later for the fruits/seeds to dry out. I also use them for temporarily holding fleshy fruits until the seeds get cleaned out.

Even the most dry-looking fruits will still hold moisture for a while, so even when collecting in paper envelopes in the garden/wild, always transfer and spread them on larger surfaces for a few weeks, before sorting out the seeds and placing them in the holding envelopes (paper or glassine).

Glassine envelopes hold moisture and are not good for keeping freshly collected fruits/seeds!

So, buy yourself a large batch of coffee filters, if you don’t already have them, and start collecting seeds!