Updates and Dobrogea self-guided tour

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An update to the HWT treatments of last week: Anthyllis montana and Astragalus missourinesis seeds were the first ones to react; they were sown and the first Anthyllis montana seedling showed up this morning!

It seems that not all Anthyllis are equal, Anthyllis vulneraria var. coccinea seeds were slower to imbibe, and are still receiving boiled water ‘showers’ at times; the same applies for Lespedeza violacea.

The first warm germinators are also showing up, with the fast germinating (less than one week) seeds of Dianthus nardiformis and Salvia canescens var. daghestanica.
This year I sowed less ‘rarities’ and more leftover seeds of species that I would like to have in greater numbers, and of which would be also good to have more seeds to share with the world.

I praised the Salvia canescens var. daghestanica many times. It is a short lived species here, but very easy to grow from seeds. If you are a sucker for silvery foliage like me this one should not miss from your rockery, scree garden or any other, dry and sunny area.

Dianthus nardiformis in wild habitat, Dobrogea region, Romania

The other species to praise is Dianthus nardiformis ex. Dobrogea, a late summer flowering Dianthus with very fine foliage. It is long lived but got shaded by other plants and didn’t flower well lately.

That’s why we always keep some ‘reserve’ seeds ;) The form grown from wild coll. seeds in Dobrogea is worth taking care of being slightly different than what usually goes around under this name (which I have also grown).

The seedlings of Dianthus nardiformis took me back the memory lane to their sunny and wind swept home, in Dobrogea region of Romania, close to the Black Sea.

Few other species like Centaurea jankae, Paronychia cephalotes and Thymus zygioides are adorning my garden now as a good remembrance token. Those interested are invited to have a self-guided tour of the region and explore some of its plants treasures.

Winter getaway – Dobrogea I

Winter getaway – Dobrogea I

Winter getaway – Dobrogea II

Winter getaway – Dobrogea II

Plant portrait: Centaurea jankae

Plant portrait: Centaurea jankae D. Brândză

 

Something old and something new for 2024

Winter returned yesterday and the kettle was on for tea; the perfect day to start the warm sowings and to test the hot water treatment (HWT) on more species. A customer asked me more details about Lespedeza violacea, Violet bush-clover, seeds recently and I realized that I forgot to check it with the HWT, so it was the first on the list.

Longitudinal section through Lespedeza japonica seed: notice the fully developed embryo, only waiting for proper germination conditions. A thin but very hard seedcoat.

Then, something that I had and never got to grow again: Anthyllis vulneraria var. coccinea; nothing very special about the kidney vetch, just that I like it and is short lived. I acquired a few seeds from a seedex (and for good measure also Anthyllis montana).
Plus, the new Astragalus missouriensis, which was offered new on the fall Seeds List. I always try to test some of the new seeds additions, which I suspect by association with similar species, to be warm germinators.

For those unfamiliar, please read about the HWT on the Germination page, or use the Search tab looking for ‘hot water  treatment’. I first started to look at this method (in use a long time ago) for species in Fabaceae family, because I dislike the scarification with sandpaper.

Species in this family have only physical dormancy, ie. the embryo is ready to germinate in proper conditions (water imbibition, temperature) but cannot do so because of the hard, impermeable seedcoat. I found an image with a sectioned seed of Lespedeza japonica in an old book, which illustrates well the ‘situation’ inside the seed; those of other Lespedeza including L. violacea are similar.

For many species it is necessary to repeat the treatment because not all seeds will imbibe well after a first soak, and it seems based on the picture that Lespedeza seeds didn’t change much in size and will need a HWT repeat.
See pictures with the fruits (one seeded, indehiscent pods) and seeds and one taken today after the first hot water treatment.

Lespedeza violacea fruits and seeds: 1mm grid

Lespedeza violacea seeds after one HWT

Keep in mind that we cannot generalize that ALL Fabaceae species will react to HWT and germinate at room temperature, but it is definitely worth trying.
The other good alternative is to sow these species in late fall-winter outdoors and let the weather naturally wear down the hard seedcoats.

For the proper warm germinators, a whole batch of Campanula species was sowed (+ few others like Luetkea and Potentilla). I love the bellflowers and try to increase their diversity in my garden. There is one fitted to any location, from sun to shade and from moist to dry; the pollinators know where to find them :)
Something old: Anthyllis vulneraria var. coccinea in 2017 and something new: Campanula cochlearifolia first time flowering last summer in July.

Anthyllis vulneraria var. coccinea, 2017

Campanula cochlearifolia, July 2023

*Reminder: if you try to germinate something at room temperature and nothing happens after 3-4 weeks, move the pot in a cold location for 1 (2) months and then bring it back to warmth. I never had good results and the patience to wait 3 months for something to germinate at room temperature (like some sources are suggesting).

 

Ready, start, go – 2024!

Species started indoors last year in February and taken outdoors in April for acclimation: Draba, Bukiniczia, various Campanula.

This is the almost traditional post for this time in February when the washing of the pots for indoor sowing starts!
I never wash the pots for outdoors sowing, but you may want to avoid bringing indoors eggs of various insects which can remain attached to pots, and who knows what else. It is enough that we have to deal with the fungus gnats, which are almost impossible to avoid indoors.

More than ever a varied array of indoor lighting is available for all budgets. Beginners can even start with just a simple lamp, sufficient to cover 4-6 small pots kept on a table/desk corner. Plants wise, I repeated many times, start with easy to germinate and grow species before trying others more challenging.

You can find a whole, updated list of warm germinating species in last’s year post: Ready, start, go 2023!
Some species will germinate with no treatments, for others you can apply various treatments like GA3; more details and links are given in the same post.
In the gallery below, timelines for Gentiana asclepiadea started in Feb. with GA3; by Nov. the grown-up seedlings were already planted in the ground!

Gentiana asclepiadea germination Feb13, 2023

Gentiana asclepiadea seedlings Apr. 24, 2023

Gentiana asclepiadea seedlings Nov. 15, 2023

While the purpose of this early seeds starting is to extend the growing time in our cold climate, where otherwise sowing directly outdoors is not possible sooner than mid-April (or May), it is also a great winter pastime when crazy gardeners crave the feel and smell of the potting soil, fresh growth and there is nothing to do outdoors :) Not all our seedlings will survive (and it’s a good thing!). But most will grow and thrive, and we’ll be proud of them, even if they are very easy from seeds, like all Gypsophila species for example.

Gypsophila cerastioides seedlings Feb. 17, 2023

Gypsophila cerastioides April 21, 2023

Ziziphora clinopodioides grown-up seedlings; a drought resistant, aromatic species that requires very good drainage.

Otherwise, it is perfectly fine to sow all the warm germinators outdoors when the temperatures allow according with your locality.

Again, for those who don’t like to go back and read older postings or the Germination page ;) I recommend to amend any sowing mix you purchase with vermiculite (even my favourites brands, Fafard and Promix, contain too much peat). For more ‘pretentious’ species I even add a bit of perlite to the mix to obtain a ‘stellar’ drainage.

My 2024 sowing list contains: species from previous years I didn’t get to sow, a few new ones from friends, few from this summer BC collection; plus some that should arrive from a seeds exchange.
I must redo Potentilla porphyrantha which I lost, Salvia daghestanica and Phyteuma orbiculare, and I am looking forward to sowing for the first time Nepeta multifida, Campanula glomerata, Allium wallichii, Luetkea pectinata……to mention just a few. I am sure I’ll have to draw the line somewhere and the rest will be switched to the sowing list of 2025!

Let the February fun begin!

 

January thaw

This year we are experiencing a classic January thaw in Ontario. Not only we have above 0°C temperatures, it is also raining. It is a welcome respite from frigid temperatures for both people and plants, and also on this occasion the snow cover gets diminished (where applicable), with nice surprises showing up!

The jump to an unseasonable warm weather in mid to late January, is a weather phenomenon most usual observed in specific Northern Hemisphere regions called January thaw; also called ‘bonspiel thaw’ on the Prairies provinces. Actually it lacks a formal recognition as being a meteorological event and it is not even happening every year (or it can be a February thaw).

Seeds-wise, at the end of January we are at a crossroad. We can still sow species that require cold/moist stratification (fingers crossed it remains cold enough until March) and also start sowing species that require only a short cold/moist stratification or even warm germinating species (with good indoor lighting systems).

Sowings of Gaultheria humifusa and Oenothera macrocarpa: the bundled up pots are in the fridge for about 1 month of cold/moist stratification; the front row pots are kept at room temperature (+/- 20C enclosed in a plastic bag).

I personally wait a bit more for sowing the straightforward warm germinators, but two recently packed species in a couple of orders caught my attention. Both Gaultheria humifusa and Oenothera macrocarpa, are considered warm germinators and allegedly may germinate better after a short cold/moist stratification period. I never had the occasion to sow them before and had to trust the germination advice from other sources.

It is a good occasion for a little experiment!
For comparison, I have to try them both ways: 1) direct germination at room temp., and 2) with 1 month of cold/moist stratification (in the fridge). We’ll see which ones germinate better and I’ll show the results later….

It is well known that various species that otherwise qualify as warm germinators (seeds only have physical dormancy) may benefit from a period of cold/moist stratification, which allows for a more rapid breakdown of the seedcoats and start of the biochemical processes involved in the germination initiation.

In some cases, instead of a slow germination of 1-3 months at room temperature, we may obtain a more rapid and uniform germination after a short cold/moist stratification; so it is worth trying it.
For the same reason, if you like to do just one sowing for all your seeds in late fall/winter, it is OK. The warm germinators will germinate in the spring with the raise of temperature, usually with a greater uniformity. 

Let’s keep in mind that germination patterns for any given species can vary depending on the collection locality and mother-plant characteristics (epigenetic factors), so do not be surprised if your results don’t match sometimes the generally claimed germination requirements.
Winter time is best for learning more about propagating various species from seeds and about germination in general. Not to mention that we also end up with nice plants for our gardens!

Adonis: a slow, beautiful affair

What else better for a January gloomy day than the last April’s bright Adonis ramosa flowers? Interested to know more about early flowering perennial Adonis species? I organized my material worth a few years and will share my adventures on growing a couple of them from seeds.

Adonis ramosa starting to flower, April 1st, 2023

Not everyone may be familiar with these wonderful early spring harbingers; most early spring flowering Adonis species are native from Europe to Far Eastern regions and Japan, and only occasional they end up in our Canadian gardens. The most cultivated species are Adonis vernalis, Adonis amurensis and Adonis ramosa. They are all very cold hardy and grow from a rhizome, being long lived plants.

The flower buds start pushing through the ground as soon as the snow melts and the sun starts shining stronger in early spring when nothing else attempts to flower, except the snowdrops. The large, bright yellow flowers are delightful, both for us and the first early spring pollinators. Beautiful ferny-like foliage in various degrees develops soon and it will grow until early summer; afterwards the plants will enter dormancy.

Usually these species are not available for us mortal ;) gardeners in Canada. When and if it happens, be prepared to spend a considerable amount. There is an explanation for this.

Being more familiar with  Adonis vernalis and knowing it would be more adaptable to our dry summers, years ago I embarked on finding seeds of this species for sowing. I managed to acquire a few dry Adonis vernalis seeds twice. They were just a few months old, but unfortunately they didn’t germinate although I kept the pots for 3 years, allowing multiple cycles of warm/cold.

Adonis vernalis pictured here many years ago at the Wrightman Alpines’ former location. Keep an eye on their coming 2024 catalogue, maybe it will be listed.

Like in many other members of Ranunculaceae family, Adonis seeds* are hydrophilic and fresh seeds are required for successful germination. This is something very hard to find mostly because the seeds are dispersed while still green and are hard to catch (similar with Hepatica; see explanations in the last gallery below).

More than this, similar again to Hepatica and other Ranunculaceae, the green seeds have an underdeveloped embryo at the time of dispersal. So, the seeds exhibit morpho-physiological dormancy and they need an after-ripening period to form cotyledon stage embryos.
*The seeds are actually achenes (just like those of Hepatica), so more correctly should be called fruits, but for the sake of easiness I’ll go with the term seeds.

 

Then, a few years ago a friend sent me fresh seeds of Adonis amurensis :) “Fresh” meaning 2-3 weeks old. I sowed them right away and the germination was fantastic in the spring of 2019.

In the first season the seedlings grow only with cotyledon leaves (a trait common for many rhizomatous species), then they go dormant in the summer and restart to grow next spring; again a short growing season…and so on… For this reason, the bulking up of the rhizome is a slow affair with Adonis. The seedlings need to be grown in the same pot for 2-3 years before being planted in the ground (when dormant).

Adonis amurensis one year old seedlings, 2019

Adonis amurensis foliage, 2022

In 2021, I kept a few seedlings in a pot, and a couple were planted in the ground. I lost a few to the drought of 2021/2022. Fast forward to spring of 2023, a few young plants were alive and growing but none flowered; maybe this spring?!
So, you do the math….and here’s the explanation for the rarity in cultivation and the price.

I was also lucky to also receive a division of Adonis ramosa from another gardening friend in the fall of 2020. Planted dormant in the fall, it promptly showed up next spring with two flowers, and they even formed a few seeds (which I promptly sown).
Last April, we had an uneventful spring, so the flowering was exquisite and also nice seeds were formed. Of course, I sowed them again for myself and also shared a few of them to spread the joy. Notice the seeds aspect and the catching method with organza bags, the same used for Hepatica.

Adonis ramosa fruit heads-seeds, May 2023

Catching Adonis ramosa seeds, 2023

Adonis ramosa 2 years-old seedlings, 2023

Conclusions for growing Adonis amurensis and A. ramosa from seeds, from my personal experience:

Sow only fresh seeds! (meaning only a few weeks old) in pots or directly in the ground.
Allow the natural variations in temperature (summer/fall/winter; the seeds may not germinate in the first spring if the embryos do not develop well or if the cold period in winter is insufficient! so do not cuddle them in a greenhouse).
Grow the seedlings in the same pot for 2-3 years (no pricking); water well and use a light fertilizer when in growth to maximize their growing season.
Transplant only when dormant (late summer-fall) in a well-drained but with moisture retentive substrate, in a sunny to part-shade location. If your region has hot, dry summers, a location with afternoon shade is a must.
Be patient, eventually the seedlings will flower after 4+ years. Meanwhile, grow many other companion plants for them!

Once again, my gratitude to all who are sharing with me their precious seeds and treasured plants divisions!

Green hedgehogs addendum

Dianthus nardiformis, winter look

Lacking inspiration, I thought let’s see what was published in January of previous years; and the Green hedgehogs post from Jan 2022 was just what I needed. It seems we have longer and longer snowless periods in the winter, so all perennials and shrubs that retain their ‘good looks’ all year long are now more precious than ever.
*All pictures shown in these posts are from early spring or late fall/winter.

Those who had the curiosity to open the post, noticed that I was talking mainly about perennials which have more or less a dome shaped growing habit and more or less linear/acicular leaves; usually grown in rockeries. Various Dianthus species, that many people are familiar with, are the best examples for this category.

I already expanded on the term ‘hedgehogs’ by including other types of foliage, akin more to porcupines and various other creatures, the term hedgehog being used in regards with a mounding or dome shape growth habit.

Expanding on the term ‘green’, colorful foliage will be an extra bonus. Quite a few Dianthus species have bluish foliage, in many Androsace, the rosettes will take a ‘winter mood’, in the spring reverting to green. A group of Saxifrages have silvery rosettes, also Vitaliana primuliflora ssp. cinerea (in the feature image); even Veronica incana retains a nice silvery foliage over the winter. And these are just a few examples from my small rockery.

Dianthus moravicus foliage

Androsace villosa ssp. taurica winter look

Armeria maritima Rubrifolia copy

Orostachys ‘Strawberry Spring’

Then, we can talk about individual hedgehogs or herd-like creatures, like in the case of many Androsace species, Draba and Saxifraga, Jovibarba, Sedums and Sempervivums and the recently presented Luetkea pectinata.
Size wise, we can have very tiny hedgehogs, like Kernera saxatilis and Sedum atratum to very large ones if we jump into the shrubs realm with Daphne ‘Lauwrence Crocker’ (note to myself to try again some small size Daphne species/cultivars) and Paxistima canbyi, Canby’s mountain lover (Read about it here: Winter Joys).

Kernera saxatilis rosette

Sedum atratum self-sown on Erinus alpinus

Daphne ‘Lawrence Crocker’

Other plants with a winter presence not often talked about are Polygala species.
Polygala chamaebuxus, the shrubby milkwort of European origin, which can be taken for a small Daphne from the distance ;) deserves a mention. I previously shown the beautiful Polygala major; its winter foliage also takes a purple hue (the same goes for our native Polygala paucifolia).

Polygala chamaebuxus, December

Polygala major Dec. 25, 2023

Even more, we can form green mounds in the garden by letting groundcovering species, a thyme in the picture, to trail over larger boulders. It just happened in this case, but we also can plan in the advance for such ‘accidents’.

Plus let’s not forget that rocks covered in moss also make for great green ‘hedgehogs’ (Winter joys III) and in proper conditions you can even establish other species on top of them! (see Saxifraga cuneifolia ssp. robusta).

Thyme with Dianthus deltoides on top

A mossy rock!

Again, there is so much to do in the winter time, both plants and garden-wise: learn about new species and how to grow them, make new plans for your garden and, of course, don’t forget to sow more seeds!

 

Onward to 2024!

Galanthus elwesii Dec. 28, 2023, SW Ontario

Due to mild weather a particularly early snowdrop is already above the ground; on the same time, snowdrops seedlings are growing under lights! Such events need to be captured for record keeping.
So, instead of the regular year-end flowers review, I’ll write a bit about the excitement of first time collecting and sowing seeds from my own snowdrops this year.

It is not that such seeds will find their way in the Seed List in the near future (I have plenty of garden space to fill in with these treasures), but there is always something to learn from the process. I already wrote this season about snowdrops and Cyclamen capsules in this July post for those who missed it: Summertime capsules.

The snowdrops are the true spring harbingers, forget about Crocus and Eranthis. True that sometimes they are a bit too early in our climate and will spend time under snow, but snow will come and go while the flower buds remain. Under their delicate appearance, they are very tough little things.

I’ve been working hard to increase their presence in the garden: bought bulbs from the garden centers (usually low quality), received seeds from with friends, and I even bought a few seeds one year. Besides dividing the clumps every few years, sowing seeds is a good method to increase their numbers and also to obtain a good variability.

One particular Galanthus elwesii (or a hybrid?) is the earliest among all other snowdrops every year. It is fascinating to see any flower buds in the winter in our climate! Only Helleborus foetidus, H. niger and Cyclamen coum can also claim this status.
Here it is pictured last year on January 1 2023, then at the beginning of February, beginning  and ending of March!

Galanthus elwesii Jan.1, 2023

Galanthus elwesii Feb. 8, 2023

Galanthus elwesii March 1,2023

Galanthus elwesii March 26, 2023

With the exception of years with heavy snow and extreme temperatures, by late February other snowdrops will start to peek through the snow, or leaves (depending on the sun exposure), and by late March more will be in flower. After emerging they will often spend time again under the snow, but they always rebound; nothing beats these little snowdrops.

Galanthus 2023

Galanthus nivalis 2023

Galanthus April 2023

Having had a very nice spring in 2023, meaning no late snow or frosts, some flowers were pollinated and fruits developed. By mid-June I was going around collecting fatty, yellow ‘drops’. The fruits (fleshy capsules) will lay on the ground when mature and open to release the seeds which will be carried away by ants attracted by their elaiosomes. For this reason, it is best to collect the capsules gradually when you see that they start turning yellow.

Galanthus green capsule 2023

Galanthus mature capsules 2023

Galanthus seeds June 15 2023

Galanthus seeds are hydrophilic and they will germinate best when sown soon after collecting, just like it happens naturally. Dry kept seeds sown later, will also germinate but usually in the second spring after sowing (depending how dry they get and maybe not 100%).

Due to the very large squirrel population in our neighborhood, which are going through the garden beds like wild boars, especially in early spring when young seedlings show up, I sowed some of the seeds in pots somewhere towards the end of June to give them a better chance. You can see the results!

There is no other better message of hope for 2024 than newly germinated seedlings!

We can start dreaming about a more peaceful year, with all people being able to enjoy a garden, the flowers and all other beautiful things that nature offers to us!

Onward to 2024 and don’t forget to sow a few seeds in the New Year!

 Last seeds of the season

We somehow arrived at the last seeds announcement of the year!

As it happens, all species are warm germinators or require first a warm/moist stratification period. Because someone once told me that he couldn’t grow a certain species from lack of indoor lights – I should, once again, write an explanation.

All species indicated as warm germinators, including those that require first a warm/moist stratification, can be started by:
Sowing indoors at any time (some may require cold/moist stratification in the fridge afterwards);
OR by sowing in pots outdoors in early spring or summer and allowed to follow the natural variations in temperature (my preferred method for Lilium and Paeonia).

On to the last seeds in alphabetical order:
Bukiniczia cabulica  (yes, I finally sorted them out)
Lilium martagon ‘Album’
Maackia amurensis
Pinus parvilfora ‘Glauca’

                                                                     Examples for warm germinators:
Buckiniczia cabulica –  the seeds germinate at room temperature without any additional treatment.
Sow indoors in late Feb-March if you want to gain a bit of extra growing time;
OR sow outdoors in late April- May (depending on location).

Lilium martagon ‘Album’ – the seeds require first a warm/moist stratification followed by a cold/moist stratification for complete germination.
Sow indoors at any time – preferably in a Ziploc bag with moist media to easily notice the bulbils formations (+/- 2 months,) and then provide cold stratification in the fridge;
OR sow outdoors in pots in late summer, and take care of the pots as usual.

Processing and sorting out newly collected seeds is always slowed down during the high selling season – both time-intensive activities happening simultaneously during the fall.

Therefore, double thanks to all the customers who not only purchased seeds this season, but also patiently waited for new species to be added to the Seeds List, placing successive orders.

Bukiniczia cabulica flowering/fruiting stems




 

 

New seeds and Glaucium flavum portrait

I’ve been busy preparing the garden and seedlings for the winter, so only two new species, both drought resistant, were added to the Seeds List this week.
Campanula alliariifolia – a vigorous and floriferous bellflower with large white flowers. I intend to grow it for the edge of the woodland beds.

Glaucium flavum, the Sea poppy, or Yellow horned poppy – a biennial or short-lived perennial for sunny, dry areas of the garden.

Glaucium flavum, sea poppy in wild habitat (Spain) showing mature fruits

And because there is a story behind the seeds of the horn poppy, a short portrait for it.
Glaucium flavum has a large geographical distribution from N. Africa to Europe and Caucasus, and it is also naturalized in other regions, but has become endangered in many of its native habitats on the shorelines and coastal cliffs of the Mediterranean and the Black Sea.

I had the occasion to see it growing wild years back, on the shorelines of the Mediterranean Sea in Cabo de Gata, Spain.
Glaucium flavum wild type displays rosettes of blue-grey, deeply sectate leaves covered in long, white hairs, an adaptation to the harsh, dry and windy conditions it grows in, like many other species that occur in the same habitat.

The flower stems are erect and bear bright, yellow flowers, which are followed by narrow, 20-30 cm long capsules – the ‘horns’ from the common name, horned poppy.

I collected a few seeds but didn’t try to germinate them for a few years thinking that due to the origin, it would have no chance of surviving in Ontario.

But two years ago I gave them a try during the winter sowing experiments time. The germination was easy, the seedlings grew well, and were successfully transplanted in the garden.

Winter came, then spring arrived and the rosettes were still OK; I even transplanted a couple (it forms a taproots, I recommend to plant it in the final location).

Glaucium flavum December 2022

Glaucium flavum

Glaucium flavum, 25 Sept. 2023

It started flowering in the summer and it continued sporadically into the fall. It grew taller and a bit more sprawling, as opposed to its mother-plant. This can be explained of course by the different climate here, with more rain during the summer, plus that it hasn’t been too hot this year and it wasn’t planted in pure sand.

Glaucium flavum is an interesting addition for a xeric garden, standing out the whole season due to its beautiful silvery foliage and bright, yellow flowers. Even if biennial, it is worth to repeat the sowing because it is very easy to grow, plus, it can also reseed by itself. In out climate although it formed many capsules, they didn’t contain too many seeds.

Propagation by seeds
It is easy to germinate after a few weeks of cold/moist stratification in the dark at 5-10 C; after the first signs of seedlings, bring the pot under the lights. Or you can germinate the seeds naturally outdoors by sowing in early spring (in our cold climate).

 

Glaucidium palmatum – experimenting on germination 2

,

Glaucidium palmatum germination wrapping-up 

One of the orders this week asking for Glaucidium seeds, reminded me that I haven’t posted my latest adventures regarding Glaucidium germination. I’ll do it now as a final revision for the Germination page.

Glaucidium germinating seeds after GA3 treatment

Having a bit too many older seeds left (2 & 3 years old), last winter I decided to see how they would germinate using GA3. Two and 3 years old seeds are not considered really ‘old’ for most species, but it was good to clarify the matter.
I wrapped all seeds in moist paper towels imbibed with GA3 solution 1000 ppm and left them like that for 1 day (inside a Ziploc bag). After that, I transferred the seeds into other moist paper towels (water), inside a Ziploc bag and kept them on the kitchen countertop. There were too many seeds and I considered this to be the easiest one in order to see what happens.

After about a week, some seeds were starting to germinate (featured image, Feb. 6). Great, I said, I’ll have a pot with seedlings, which is fine. But things were starting to accelerate and by Feb. 13, ALL the seeds were germinating, with the roots growing at the speed of light!

What to do? How to throw them away?! I learned my lesson about keeping too many seedlings of the same species….Still, I potted them up crowding 10+ seeds/pot. They grew for a while like it’s their habit only with cotyledon leaves, and then somewhere in late March/April they started to become dormant (again their habit).  At this point the pots will not look very nice but we have to let them enter dormancy in a ‘normal’ way.

Glaucidium palmatum seedlings March 1, 2023

Glaucidium palmatum seedlings May 10, 2023

Glaucidium dormant seedlings; if you remove a bit of mix from the top, future growing buds are visible.

Sometimes, after a short dormancy, a few seedlings will start to grow the true leaf; it didn’t happen this time probably due to the lack of soil in pots. ‘Empty’ looking pots were kept relatively moist (but not wet) and in late spring they were put outdoors in a shaded location. At some point in late June, I had a look to see what’s happening – all was well: seedlings in happy dormancy.

In early fall I assumed responsibility for the crowded seedlings, removed all from pots and replanted some in a large rectangle container, and some in other pots. Next spring the seedlings will start growing true leaves and they really need more space.

It is always a wonder how during only a few months of active growth the cotyledon leaves can support the growth of such large rootlets!

Some seedlings were shared bareroot with a friend in the fall, and more will follow next year. I do not plan opening a nursery ;)

So, this is method 1 of germinating Glaucidium palmatum using GA3; easily done. Do not start the seeds too early in the winter like I did.

Glaucidium palmatum dormant seedlings, August, 2023 – bareroot to be transplanted; every group shows how many seedlings grew in a 4 in pot!

Method 2:

GA3 is not absolutely necessary – I posted on another occasion the picture below with the note “a picture is worth a thousand words”. You just need more time for all seeds to germinate.

Glaucidium palmatum 1 and 2 years-old seedlings

The image is self-explanatory: for seeds sown regularly in pots in late fall/winter – some will germinate in the first spring (after cold/moist stratification); the rest of the seeds will germinate only after a warm cycle/followed by cold  – ie. the second spring.

For this reason, you can observe seedlings with cotyledon leaves only and seedlings with the true leaf in the same pot. Do not prick out the germinated seeds in the first year!

In all cases, the seedlings can be repotted easily when dormant in bigger pots. In the 3th year they should be planted in the ground. All rhizomatous species grow much better when they have more space to grow their root system.

The only phase when Glaucidium young seedlings can be lost is during dormancy if they receive too much water (from rains or overwatering).
To avoid this, keep the pots in a box with a lid, close to the house under eavestrough, in a shaded cold frame, or use any other method that would prevent the pots from drying too much (and encourage you to overwater) or to be rained on a lot.

This concludes once and for all experimenting with Glaucidium seeds from various sources. My first experiments were done in 2014!  Nothing else remains to be said.

With or without GA3, Glaucidium seeds are not more difficult to germinate than other rhizomatous species; sometimes they require 2 years for complete germination = patience. You don’t even need super fresh seeds as according with a germination myth about Glaucidium.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Marvellous Gentiana

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There are a few seeds of Gentiana paradoxa hybrid to share this fall, so the time has come to talk about the marvelous group of so called fall Gentianas: Gentiana paradoxa, Gentiana septemfida and their hybrids.

On we go!

Gentiana paradoxa is an endemic species with limited distribution in the Western Caucasus region.
In some cases, pictures shown over the net as Gentiana paradoxa are in fact hybrids. This species cross-pollinates easily with Gentiana septemfida both in the wild and in the garden; and in fact, this is a good thing (https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:368636-1)

Records show that Gentiana paradoxa was named by Russian botanist Nikolai Michailovic Albov in 1894 from specimens collected on the calcareous slopes of Mt. Kherebet Mamdzyhkhara, Abkhazia at 1300 m altitude (various spellings, Mt. Mamdzyshkha).

The specific epithet “paradoxa” means is – “contrary to expectation, paradoxical, marvellous”. It is indeed a marvellous species, with upright stems up to 20-25 cm, linear or narrow lanceolate leaves arranged in whorls and single large, blue, fringed flowers at the top of the stems. A mature specimen is truly magnificent.

Gentiana paradoxa 2023

Gentiana paradoxa, October 2021

I was lucky to received wild collected seeds a few years ago, so the specimen shown here represents the true species. You can easily tell if a Gentiana paradoxa is pure species simply after the foliage, which in optimal conditions turns a beautiful yellow in late fall. Also, there are single flowers at the top of the stems, as opposed to clusters in G. septemfida.

Amazingly, it is not a difficult species in culture. Do not believe the wiki statement “However, it is not particularly easy to grow, requiring moist, well-drained, lime-free soil and a position in full sun.” As you can see, they didn’t do their homework well, like it often happens.

Gentiana septemfida

Gentiana septemfida

It is a more commonly cultivated species and also with a larger geographical distribution: from N. & E. Türkiye to N. Iran, overlapping with Gentiana paradoxa in the Transcaucasus region. It grows from the upper forest to the alpine zones. It was first described from the alpine region of eastern Caucasus. (https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:368901-1)

The flowering stems have a trailing habit with ovoid, ovoid-lanceolate or lanceolate leaves and blue flowers usually in crowded clusters at the top of the stems. There are rare forms mentioned having only one or 2-3 flowers (f. uniflora and f. pauciflora). There are other differences from G. paradoxa flower-wise, but there is no need to go into more botanical details.

Gentiana paradoxa x septemfida hybrids

These two beautiful species easily hybridize in the wild when growing in the same area and also in the garden. The seedlings will display intermediate characters in various degrees, as well as the foliage, flowers and flowering time! By looking at my hybrid clump (a bunch of seedlings were planted together), they tend to take mainly after Gentiana septemfida, flowers and habit wise, having trailing flowering stems.

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid August

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid, Sept. 17

However, flowering time wise they take more after Gentiana paradoxa, all starting to flower in the first part of August and lasting into September. A Gentiana septemfida, which I also have in the garden, flowers much earlier, in mid-July.

The nr. of flowers/cluster vary, some with up to 8-10 flowers! Something similar goes around under the name of G. paradoxa hybrid ‘Blue Herald’. With Gentiana paradoxa raised from wild collected seeds growing nearby, the possibilities of even more beautiful hybrids are endless. They are going to be the result of a double cross with Gentiana paradoxa!

There is just one problem: the results of pollination were quite poor, both in true Gentiana paradoxa and the hybrids, signaling a limited self-pollination or maybe a lack of enough pollinators. Careful selecting is necessary in order to separate the good seeds.

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid seeds selection. A very small number of good seeds were formed, considering the large number of flowers

Growing these species and their hybrids from seeds

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid seedlings – picture just taken; they were transferred in a bigger pot as a bunch in late summer. Next spring, a delicate division of the seedlings will be done in individual pots.

These beautiful late summer/early fall flowering gentian species and their hybrids are very easy to grow from seeds and they are also quite adaptable as garden plants.

Why doesn’t this phenomenon happen more often?! They deserve a medal of merit especially for enduring well our hot & humid summers!

The seeds germinate in the spring after cold-moist stratification. I usually sow in late fall and leave the pots outdoors over the winter (with some protection, boxes under the snow, cold frame…).  In the first season, the seedlings don’t grow a lot, but then they will make a leap forward.
GA3 treatment is also an option if you want to start them in early spring indoors (beware the elongation of the seedlings though).

The few seeds of last year were sown, and with more plants around, hopefully the pollination and harvest of good seeds may increase. Plus, the more marvelous gentiana plants in the garden, the better!

On we go!
Gentiana paradoxa hybrids
Back in stock
Parnassia glauca
Delphinium exaltatum

The SEEDs LIST

Happy Thanksgiving to all Canadian customers!

Seeds & Printer

The printer went out of order as of yesterday afternoon unfortunately; just when you need it most…
So, for a limited time the seeds packets will arrive at destinations with hand written labels. I think it is better to go on like this than to delay the shipping of orders at this time of the year. Thank you for your understanding!

The latest seeds collected:

Maianthemum racemosum, False Solomon’s seal – probably the last offering of the season from the moist-packed seeds category.
Other species from the wild side – Desmodium nudiflorum, Naked flowered tick-trefoil and the Running strawberry- bush, Euonymus obovatus.

Thanks to a very generous donor, there are also more species peonies seeds in stock! Beside the regular offerings (usually low in stock) there is also  a new, lovely white form of Paeonia anomala ssp. veitchii.
For most peonies that first need a warm/moist stratification period, it is a bit late for regular sowing in our climate. For those new to growing peonies from seeds I’ve updated a bit this former article: Growing peonies from seeds.

 The Seed List

Enjoy the fall flowers & colors and get inspired!

Euonymus obovatus

Aralia nudicaulis and Uvularia

Symphyotrichum cordifolium

Solidago caesia, wreath goldenrod

Anemone virginiana

Ilex verticillata