Epigenetics is a scientific field in high fashion and moving fast nowadays. Although the term was coined in 1942 by C. H. Waddington and scientists have been working since to elucidate the mechanisms involved, it is only recently that the mainstream media has been inundated by articles on epigenetic themes.

Very concise and without details, the field of epigenetics deals with the modifications induced by various external factors on any given organism and their consequences. The actual genetic making of the organism is not changed; epigenetic modifications only affect how various genes are expressed and are switch on or off  (“epi” means “above” in Greek hence the epigenetics = factors beyond the genetic code. Most importantly, some of these changes can be inherited from a generation to another.

Referring strictly to plants, the study of epigenetics is underway and there is still much to learn.
I’ve read that “Plants are masters of epigenetic regulation” and it is not hard to understand why: they cannot move, so they have no choice but to adapt continuously to the changing environment and other stimuli.

Silene compacta in habitat

On a practical level, we can speculate that the epigenetics explains why some species and especially those living in extreme habitats (alpine regions, deserts…) are some of the hardest to adapt to garden cultivation even when provided with close by conditions.
Also, epigenetics might explain the differences in germination patterns of a given species, in case of mother-plants originating from different geographical areas.

It is already known by gardeners that the more different your climate & garden conditions are than the ones where a species grows wild, the more difficult it will be to ‘tame’ it into cultivation and hardiness is not the only factor.
The first generation of seedlings express the traits inherited from the mother-plant and they react accordingly in relation to seasonal temperatures, substrate, light intensity, water regime…..

By growing a second generation seedlings from the first ones, and then a third one and so on….we have increasingly higher chances to obtain better ‘tamed’ plants for our specific garden conditions. They will look exactly the same as the original mother-plant, but their adaptation to the local variations in temperatures, water regime, humidity and so on, will be improved.

To exemplify:
Last summer, Helichrysum arenarium (sandy everlasting) successfully flowered in my rockery and set a few seeds; later in the fall it ‘disappeared’ despite growing in a very well drained spot.

Helichrysum arenarium ex. Dobrogea,  flowering in August, 2021

The species was grown from wild collected seeds in the Dobrogea region of Romania, which has a very different climate than we have in SW Ontario, so it was no big surprise that it didn’t last long.

It is a very lucky situation when a few seeds are available to obtain a second generation of seedlings. There is hope that they will adapt better to the new environment in the next generation.

Other species also managed only a first flowering: Paronychia cephalotes, a couple of Minuartia and Centaurea jankae.

But others grown from seeds from the same trip adapted well: Dianthus nardiformis, Centaurea orientalis, Alyssum borzeanum, Aurinia saxatilis, Sedum urvillei, Silene compacra, Ephedra distachya and Iris suaveolens.

Virtual traveling to the region in question available below:
Winter getaway  – Dobrogea I
Winter getaway – Dobrogea II

And/or read more about epigenetics in plants (there are many other articles available).
Epigenetic Regulation in Plants

February has arrived (with a vengeance) and I hope many are preparing to start their indoor sowings.

Silene suecica

I have written about indoor sowing before, but maybe is good to mention again the ‘warm germinators’.  This is the term used in the catalogue to describe the dry seeds that will germinate at room temperature (+/- 17-21C) after a certain (and variable) period of time.

I think it is a very good method especially for rockery species which always benefit from being planted in the ground at a young stage (Dianthus, Draba, Silene, Anthemis, Hedysarum, Oxytropis, Papaver….).

With so many light systems available nowadays, it is worth giving it a try. It is most rewarding and also therapeutic to grow something new during the winter months!  Start with just 3-4 species if you are new at this. They will be perfect for a small trial-out container planting.

Draba haynaldii grown-up seedlings

You know the concept of going to do the grocery when you are not hungry, right? Your ‘plants budget’ will certainly improve when the garden centers start offering perennials in late spring!

Also check out the Germination guide of the Ontario Rock Garden & HP Society page: Here
Advice on using acid gibberellic: Here
Hot water treatment: Here
Advice for sowing small/fine seeds: Here
Soaking and nicking the seeds: Here

 

 

*It can happen that species given as ‘warm germinators’ to not ‘comply’ to the rule, and vice-versa, ‘cold germinators’ starting to germinate at room temperature.

Echinops crispus seedlings

The source of seeds: wild coll. versus garden coll., growing conditions of the mother-plants and other factors, all can influence the germination pattern. When it happens, place the pot in cold location for 3-4 weeks. And, no matter what, it is best to keep your pots for 2-3 years if possible; some seeds can enter a second dormancy and will need multiple alternate cycles of cold/warm for germination.

The list below is not exclusive and it includes only contains cold hardy genera/species that I have personally germinated over the years at room temperature. I made notes for the species that I have started using GA3 (by habit) and those that will germinate best and faster if using a HWT (hot water treatment).

Acinos alpinus
Allium thunbergii and few other Allium
Aquilegia canadensis and most other Aquilegia – with GA3 treatment
Amphicarpaea
Arenaria
Arabis species
Androsace some species
Anthemis carpatica and other Anthemis species
Arisaema triphyllum and other Arisaema
Artemisia
Astragalus (with HWT)
Asphodeline lutea, A. taurica
Aurinia saxatilis
Alyssum
Baptisia australis (using the HWT)
Berkheya purpurea
Bukiniczia cabulica

Campanula, many species
Caragana (HWT)
Carlina acaulis
Calycanthus floridus
Centaurea triumfettii, C. orientalis, and other Centaurea species
Cerastium alpinum ssp. lanatum
Cercis canadensis
Cirsium
Clematis alpina and other Clematis

Draba species
Delphinium grandiflorum and other Delphinium species
Dianthus nardiformis
Dianthus superbus ssp. sajanensis, most other Dianthus species

Echinops crispus and other Echinops
Edraianthus graminifolius and other Edraianthus (not all species though)
Erinus alpinus
Gypsophila

 

 

So, get ready: wash your pots, have handy sowing mix, labels, the seeds and then go! Start first with those species which take longer to germinate (or unknown) and leave the very fast germinators for mid-February, early March. Good luck!

 

It is always exciting to find Phacelia sericea (Silky Phacelia, blue alpine phacelia, silky scorpion weed) in flower when hiking up in the mountains in mid to late summer (various mountain ranges of Western North America). It grows on dry, rocky slopes, near avalanche chutes and rocky forest openings, often in small groups or as single specimens. It is not difficult to recognize it after the deep-blue, violet flowers with exerted stamens and silvery aspect of the foliage (pinnatifid leaves with a covering of short, soft hairs).

Phacelia sericea in late July, Lizard Ranges, close to Fernie, SE BC

I had the luck to catch it in flower twice in the Rocky Mts. in SE British Columbia, and I even found older capsules with few seeds, which were preserved under the deep layer of snow.
I managed to grow a seedling which has developed nicely but then disappeared suddenly in the summer. As I understand, many others tried to grow it with the same outcome; even with a stellar drainage provided, muggy weather pose a big problem.

I will give it one more try this year. It is a warm germinator and the seedlings are not very difficult (it forms a taproot so it is best to plant the young seedlings in the rockery fast).

Phacelia sericea seeds aspect; the fruit is a capsule with 2 chambers

For other awesome species from the same location have a virtual weekend getaway – Weekend getaway: Lizard Ranges revisited.

 

*AN ILLUSTRATED KEY TO THE HYDROPHYLLACEAE OF ALBERTA
https://anpc.ab.ca/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Hydrophyllaceae-2019-09.pdf

**Interesting read on Phacelia (don’t grab your shovel to go looking for gold :)
https://www.colorado.edu/asmagazine/2018/04/04/silky-phacelia-handsome-wildflower-special-talent

As the extreme cold goes on we will push forward with a few species from the bellflower family. This family includes a lot of species with flowers in various shades of blue: from a light, soft blue to deep blue and blue-violet.
Besides Campanula (it would be very hard to enumerate all species), a few of the most cultivated genera in cold climates are: Edraianthus, Asyneuma, Phyteuma, Jasione, Platycodon, Lobelia, Codonopsis…(and possibly I forgotten some).

Most species are easy to grow from seeds and adaptable in cultivation, and you can find suitable species for a variety of locations, like rockeries and flower beds, woodlands; from sun to shade, and dry to moist.

As it happens, they are not yet well represented in my garden and one of my garden-goals is to try and do better in regards to the Campanulaceae. I already shown Jasione in the last post; here are a few more samples in various shades of blue:

And my only Edraianthus graminifolius (not from lack of trying), probably one of the easiest to grow.

Edraianthus graminifolius

 

Another cold winter day, so let’s continue the revision of genera/species that maintain a nice aspect year long.
Most of them have a very appealing aspect of cushions or domes, with a ‘hedgehog’ appearance. I think this is the most attractive aspect of a rock garden*, having these tiny, or not so tiny, green ‘hedgehogs’ which at some point in the spring will start sprouting stems and multicolor flowers. Some can be more or less ‘spiny’ and have other colors. How can we resist them?!

In this category we have: various species of Armeria, Dianthus, Draba, Gypsophila, Minuartia, Arenaria and Eremogone, Lewisia, Phlox, Silene, Acantholimon, Saxifraga, to mention just some of the most common and hardy genera for cold regions. As always, nature provides the best inspiration but it is much easier to show a few images from the garden.

Then, let’s not forget all the Sempervivums, Sedums, Jovibarba, Orostachys, and the biggest of the ‘hedgehogs’: the hardy cacti species. These should rather go into the category of porcupines though :)
Very easy to grow with proper conditions. Even in the smallest of the gardens one can have a container with Sempervivums.

If I wet your appetite, there is a unique garden center/family nursery in Lindsay, Ontario: Anna’s Perennials, that offers a large variety of hardy cacti (and many more others).

Also, you will find a wide variety of ‘hedgehogs’ at Wrightman Alpines (mail-order business) and they have just published their spring catalogue!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Even more, on the subject of succulents, the North American Rock Garden Society, presents tomorrow (15 January) a Zoom webinar with the theme: Succulents on the Rocks.

So, there is a lot to do in the winter, both plants and garden-wise: learn about new species and how to grow them, make new plans for your garden and, of course, don’t forget to sow more seeds! I just sowed one more small batch for cold/moist stratification (out in the snow they’ll go) and the warm germinators are in line for February!

 

 

If you feel like trying to grow you own ‘hedgehogs’, please visit the Rock Garden plants category

*Note that by rock garden in this case, I meant a well-drained, sunny location; some rocks for visual impact are nice, but you don’t really need to go crazy on them; don’t feel intimidated.

 

Later than expected, the seed stock for Gaultheria procumbens has been replenished. Some seeds are more difficult to extract and sort out than others, but speaking of the wintergreen, it is one of those species that I always postpone to start cleaning. And there is a good reason for it.

Everyone is familiar with the lovely urn-shaped white flowers of the wintergreen (rarely pink).

For those unfamiliar with the wintergreen, a presentation of this species was done a few years ago: Shining. The red, shiny fruits are commonly called berries. In more botanical inclined resources they are described as “berry-like capsules”. So, what is what?

Looking or opening a fresh wintergreen ‘berry’ will only reveal the seeds enclosed in a highly aromatic, white, mealy mass, which gives off a nice winterberry flavor (methyl salicylate), much stronger than the crushed leaves would. It is almost impossible to remove and sort out the seeds when they are fresh (at least by hand). The trick is to let them dry in a paper bag for a while, until the capsule gets differentiated from the mealy mass.

A picture will explain better what’s happening: the ovary gives rise to a small capsule and the calyx forms the actual red, edible covering/white, mealy underneath and will enclose the capsule, leaving a small opening (when dry). Hence the berry-like aspect of the ‘fruit’, that theoretically is a capsule, accompanied by a fleshy calyx (click to open the gallery).

*The genus Gaultheria comprises many species growing on various continents and besides fleshy calyces, some have real berries as fruits, while others present dry capsules. It has been suggested that the type of fruit in Gaultheria species has evolved in connection with their habitat. Species with fleshy calyces or berry fruits tend to occur in the forests/margins and clearings and may depend on the brightly colored and fleshy calyces or berries to attract animals, which act as dispersal agents by eating the fruits. Species with dry capsules often grow on more exposed sites and rely on wind dispersal. 

With this we say farewell to 2021. Thank you to all the regular readers and occasional visitors of the website.
Growing and learning more about plants, one fruit and seed at a time!

With hope that all our seeds will germinate & grow well and our gardens will be more beautiful than ever in 2022!

Happy New Year!

 

 

It goes without saying that woodlands are enchanted places year long.
In deciduous woods even when all trees have lost their leaves, we can find many green “winter-joys” during the snowless periods: moss covered rocks, moss on tree trunks and stumps, slopes and woodland floor with sedges, wintergreen (Gaultheria) and others such as: Chimaphila, Polystichum, Coptis trifolia, Mitella, and of course, the queens of the woodlands: Hepatica americana and Hepatica acutiloba.
Mosses require a specialized expertise (and a microscope!) for correct identification; therefore in most cases I abstain to provide a name because it might be incorrect.

We can admire all of them and also draw inspiration from their growing habitat. Reproducing the moss boulders in our gardens would pose serious challenges, but a decaying stump in the shade is always a good opportunity to try and establish moss and species which like to grow on it, like seen in the pictures.
Sedges (Carex) are easy to grow from seeds and establish in the garden, and there are species for almost any type of location (sun to shade and wet to dry). Same goes for others like Mitella, Tiarella (picture in my garden), Polystichum acrostichoides and many other ferns, Hepatica and Gaultheria.

*Thanks to good weather Chimaphila seeds and Gaultheria fruits were collected (in stock after they can be cleaned and sorted out).
**Sedges (Carex) are also very difficult to identify and there are about 200 species in Ontario!

*Hepatica x media ‘Silberprinzessin’ in the feature image.

Modest snow and by the weekend back to spring-like temperatures! It seems we’ll admire for quite a while our “winter joys” in S. Ontario this year.

I will start the second part of this series with Phlomis russeliana, another underused species, in my opinion. The Jerusalem sage, a native of the Middle Eastern regions, is perfectly cold hardy and will grow well in well drained locations, sun to part-shade to form a nice groundcover of large, light green/fuzzy underneath leaves with a felt-like texture. Tall flowering stems with whorls of yellow flowers form in the summer. It spreads slowly by very tight rhizomes, so don’t be afraid, it won’t take over the garden. It grows part-shaded by a large spruce, which also ensures a good drainage.

To its left,  Helleborus foetidus (Bear’s foot or stinking Hellebore), another ‘winter joy’, like all the Helleborus. The more you have, the better. One would think they are widespread in all the gardens here but actually that is not the case. Maybe too expensive? But they are so easy to grow from seeds and you will end up with seedlings to share with all the friends. You can expect the first flowers in the third or fourth year and there is usually a great variation, ie. nice surprises!

The next best thing to the Helleborus spp. are the evergreen Epimediums (few species and hybrids). A subject dear to me, they can be expensive  but worthwhile; long lived and with beautiful foliage all year long. Just like for Helleborus, new foliage will grow up in the spring (also the best time to cut back the old stems/foliage to enjoy the flowers).

I am starting to like more and more the biennial and/or monocarpic species. Many of them develop ornamental leaves rosettes in the first year and remain as such over the winter: Digitalis purpurea, D. ferruginea, some Erysimum species, Ipomopsis rubra, various Cirsiums, Symphyandra, to mention just  a few. You get to know and enjoy the flowers in the second year and then, a choice: grow them again/let reseed or move on to something else :) After all, there is only that much space available and so many other species to grow! I am looking fdw to D. ferruginea ssp. schischkinii to flower next near and will always welcome Ipomopsis rubra and Erysimum witmannii ssp. transsilvanicum.

Last summer the beautiful & monocarpic Cirsium macounii var. edule also flowered and it was source of delight for all, including the pollinators, especially the sweat bees.
Being realistic I admit that I do not have the space to make it a permanent garden resident. It was fun to grow it though and I can share seeds with others more fortunate in garden space.

Other great biennial or short-lived perennials that overwinter as rosettes are: Capnoides sempervirens, Corydalis ophiocarpa, Pseudofumaria alba and P. lutea (Pseudofumaria ssp. remain perennials in this zone).  I already talked about Corydalis and aliases a few times, so will end of the post here.

There are many other plants that remain beautiful over the winter in a cold climate: various ferns and grasses (mostly Carex, Luzula), Mitella diphylla, Tiarella, Tellima, Pachyphragma, Geum triflorum….and probably more could be added to the list.

 

*In the featured image: Hepatica transsilvanica ‘Winterfreude’ (in translation “winterjoy”)

December sneaked in with a few flurries but usually a reliable snow cover will settle in only later in the month or in January (hopefully). It is particularly around this time that gardeners start to appreciate more the perennials and shrubs that retain their foliage (leaving aside the true evergreens).

I always use the snowless periods to count my ‘winter joys’ and thinking about adding more such plants in the garden. Unfortunately, quite a few species, even if full hardy, don’t handle well the winter desiccation in a 5-6 zone. The most common broadleaf shrubs we can use are:  Buxus, Daphne, Ilex, Mahonia, Gaultheria, Arctostaphylos and Rhododendrons/Azaleas (only some species here in ON).

But I haven’t seen Paxistima canbyi, Canby’s mountain lover or cliff green, in many gardens. Always willing to give a try to something new I acquired one a few years ago. It was planted on a part shaded slope exposed to winter sun and wind; snow cover sometimes minimal because of a nearby spruce. It defied all expectations! I already shared with a few friends (stolons; cuttings should also work well) and I highly recommend it for cold regions, zone 5-6.

Paxistima canbyi, Canby’s mountain lover. It can be found growing wild in a few localities of central Appalachian Mts. (US) on limestone bluffs and cliffs and is said to be threatened/endangered. A low growing small shrub, with narrow, glossy leaves; the flowers are tiny, insignificant. Named after William Marriot Canby,  businessman, plant collector and amateur botanist from Delaware who discovered it in the wild.

Another underused evergreen shrub which does well in cold regions is Erica carnea – winter heath, with its many varieties.
Low growing shrubs with needle like leaves and small urn-shaped flowers, usually pink or white. They grow well with good drainage, in sandy soils, in sun to part shade. Most also flower very early in the spring when not much else is available for early pollinators.

Erica carnea ‘Rosalie’ in December

Bulbs speaking, everyone should have an Arum in the garden (aka Lords-and-Ladies). They are truly wonders of the season with the way they start growing in the fall and how their foliage is bouncing back after being frozen.

Arum italicum ‘Marmoratum’ is the most common form available to purchase, but you can also procure or grow from seeds various other forms with patterned leaves. They are all beautiful. The second image is one grown from seeds as ‘Chameleon’, and there is another form nearby which I’ll have to separate.

I would be interested to hear about other broadleaf small shrubs capable to withstand zone 5-6 winters.
Next, about other “winter joys”; we can have relatively green gardens even in the winter!

 

*The shipping of moist packed seeds has been suspended.
Caulophyllum thalictroides seeds will be available again in late spring.

 

Cleaning and sorting out the fruits/seeds in preparation for cold storage is always a good occasion to ponder on their characteristics.

It is time to discuss a bit the Lamiaceae family, which has so many genera and species well-known to all gardeners for their ornamental or/and aromatic, culinary & medicinal qualities: Acinos, Clinopodium, Lamium, Salvia, Stachys, Mentha, Monarda, Monardella, Nepeta, Origanum, Thymus, Phlomis and Phlomoides, Pycnanthemum… to mention just a few.

Not that we have to go ‘nuts’ about details, but it is always good to know what we are dealing with when collecting, cleaning, sharing and sowing the “seeds”.

What many of these species have in common is the fact that their fruits, called nutlets, form and remain inside the floral calyces (with some exceptions). What we are actually sowing is these fruits; the seeds are inside and cannot be separated. A nutlet, is a small, hard walled, single seeded fruit (practically a small nut).

The calyces vary greatly in size from small ( Acinos, Clinopodium, Thymus), to medium (Salvia daghestanica, Stachys) and very large (Stachys inflata), and in some cases they can be quite ornamental (Stachys, Salvia species); some can also remain on the stems for a long time: Phlomoides, Monarda, Pycnanthemum.

Practical point of views:

The collection of such fruits can be more or less difficult. In the case of species with very small calyces, most times nutlets will be retained inside, and by collecting the calyces, one will also collect the fruits. The larger the calyces, the more likely is for the nutlets to scatter on the ground when ripen. This is a game changer: waiting too long and the seeds are gone, not waiting enough, and they are immature.

Most often, the calyces get dry/brownish and this is a sign that the nutlets are ready. They can be collected by striping them from the stems/or cutting off the upper portion of the stems. But in cases like Stachys inflata, the calyces remain the same silvery color and it is very hard to guess; periodical checking the fruits status is the only solution. Then, portions of the stems are cut and placed in paper bags.

Cleaning, sorting out: small size calyces usually only require cleaning the debris and will be shared as such.

Origanum calyces with no “seeds” from a seedex

For larger size calyces:  most often the fruits will fall out by themselves after the calyces dry out completely (if there are some left inside!). Let them stay in a paper bag for a while. If you were too late to collect, then no nutlets will be found!

 Make sure that you don’t share empty calyces instead of “seeds”! (this is the most common situation with the Seeds exchanges).
For species with medium to large size calyces – ONLY the nutlets should be shared.

 

                                                                            

 

This post has gotten long enough; part 2 may follow with Scutellaria and a few other Lamiaceae which differ in the fruits aspect.
Few more pictures for a cloudy day; the first couple with a trio of success from my rockery: Acinos alpinus, Stachys inflata and a thyme: beautiful and green all year long.

In the featured image: late fall aspect of Pycnanthemum virginianum (mountain mint).

At this time I am sowing not only seeds (giddy up sowing species with cold/moist stratification requirements!) but also germinated seeds (roots only) of species kept in moist storage. If they are not purchased before the roots emerge, of course, there is nothing else to do with them.

Allium tricoccum (ramps, wild leek) germinated seeds

I cannot throw away Allium tricoccum in any form because it is an almost endangered species now due to over collecting in the wild habitat (never collect ramps bulbs from the wild). I am sure I will find a home for the baby ramps in the spring.

No ‘crying wolf’ next year for the ramps seeds please. Here’s the method for easily obtaining ramps galore, which will be posted on the Germination page:

Watch carefully for the seeds to reach maturation; hurry up to collect them before falling down (late August-early September depending on the region).
Clean, sort out and sow right away, or
Pack the seeds in slightly moist vermiculite; keep them at temperatures that mimics late summer/early fall.
Periodically check the bag for moisture levels.
Plant the germinated seeds after the roots emerge.
Keep the pot in a cold location (or ‘plant’ it in the ground for the winter).
Watch for the sprouts in early spring.

Use them to flavor a spring salad or,
Grow them further to obtain adult ramps.

Curious what’s on my winter sowing list?

Well, a few new species for this year available in the Seed List such as: Primula nivalis and Anemonastrum sibiricum, Primula maximocwiczii, Lomatium sandbergii (from Mt. Baldy, BC), to mention just a few.

In general, I also sow more species from previous years, they are always behind due to lack of space (Cirsium hookerianum from the Rockies, Mimulus lewisii….). Furthermore, I sow previous species for which I lost the young seedlings, most often due to slugs (like in the case of Veronica schmidtiana).
Few new species in too small quantities to share with everyone, like Dodecatheon frigidum and Arnica lessingii from Norther BC and Gentiana dschungarica from Altai are also on my fall/winter sowing list.

And with the sowing, also the virtual traveling begins! Everyone has their own desires and choices; the important thing is to keep on sowing! and keep on dreaming!
Cirsium hookerianum and few of its companions growing in wild habitat (mountains of SWAlberta and SE BC).

There are a few more new seeds for the start of November:
Allium pseudojaponicum – an excellent small size Allium for early fall flowering.
Allium victorialis – one to enjoy and also made it into a salad.
Liatris microcephala – the dwarf and beautiful Appalachian blazing star.

A couple of species that produced very few seeds this year are also available. Both are easy to germinate and grow:
Callirhoe digitata
Calycanthus floridus

And maybe, maybe Allium thunbergii ‘Ozawa’ seeds will have time to mature this year.

Various moist packed species are getting impatient and showing the first signs of germination. Few like Trillium grandiflorum and Paris quadrifolia are on time, for others like Uvularia and Symplocarpus, ‘it’s just happening’. Not 2 seeds are the same…

We also got our first nights below zero Celsius and the first flurries; it is November after all. But the trees are still wearing bright colors and fall Crocus and other stubborn plants are refusing to let go.

Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense
Arisaema cf. amurense Silver leaf form (explanation about this offering on the product page)

and Asclepias exaltata

recently added to the inventory.

The Arisaema sp. germinate at room temp., so there is no hurry for them, but Asclepias exaltata will benefit from a healthy period of cold/moist stratification (like many other species). This is the perfect time to start the fall sowings (ie. sow, water and leave the pots outdoors throughout the winter).

Unfortunately Allium psedojaponicum didn’t make the short list, the seeds are still drying in a paper bag – coming soon. For other species recently posted, check out the Seed List.

Keep on sowing!

*A reminder that the remaining moist packed seeds will not be available if/when the temperatures start plunging sharply in late November/December.

Between rainy days, various native species were collected and placed in the inventory.
At the same time, some seeds arrived from kind contributors.

Those interested can find now in the Seeds List some of the NA native species offered almost every year like: Amphicarpaea bracteata, Triosteum aurantiacum, Euonymus obovatus, Smilax herbacea and Lilium canadense.
Also the new – Lilium superbum, the turk’s cap lily, which looks a bit like a gigantic L. michiganense.

No rush, by early next week, a few more Lilium species will be uploaded to the inventory:
L. distichum, L. bulbiferum var. croceum…, an Arisaema or two, and few others.

It is always good to check the Seeds List once in a while in the fall. Species that are new for the Shop are being marked as such.
From last’s week uploads: Ceanothus herbaceus, Liatris ligulistylis, Eupatorium perfoliatum and Vernonia gigantea to mention just a few native species.

 

I blame the lack of sun for doodling with Dioscorea caucasica capsules recently (they were collected after a rainy day, otherwise when completely dry, they break easily).

‘Butterflies’ of Dioscorea caucasica capsules; notice the seeds still present in the top ones.  Each wing of the capsule contains 2 (or 1) seeds.

Dioscorea caucasica has established happily in the garden and is easy to germinate and grow.
Same goes for our only native species: Dioscorea villosa, which would happily climb on a tree trunk, dead or alive in a sun to part shade location.  Both species are in need of conservation and ‘propagation means conservation’ is our slogan.

After successfully growing D. caucasica, I can say that it is an easy to grow species. Sow the seeds in late fall outdoors, be patient, they will germinate quite late in the spring, but after that they will grow vigorously and you can plant the whole sowing pot by fall (or in the next spring) in the desired location. Good luck will make it to obtain both female and male plants in your little clump (the flowers are really insignificant, but the capsules are quite decorative).

It has rain quite a lot lately and I will mention other species that prefer wet places:
For those interested, there is a small amount of Symplocarpus foetidus seeds available (no international shipping).
Iris versicolor is also back in the inventory. And you can always throw in the mix a handful of Lobelia siphilitica and Lobelia cardinalis seeds.

Parnassia and Triantha have been in demand this fall, but there are still some seeds available.

Weather allowing, it is about the time to collect the hog peanut (Amphicarpaea bracteata) seeds….

I thought I’ll write about a triad but almost a week has passed by and it has become a quartet!
The following species, all good in part-shaded locations, are in the inventory: Gillenia trifoliata, Spigelia marilandica, Glaucidium palmatum and Trautvetteria caroliniensis.

The first 3 need no introduction for the garden aficionados; who doesn’t know about the butterfly-like flowers of Gillenia, the ‘hummingbird magnet’ Indian pink (Spigelia), and ethereal flowers of Glaucidium?


On the other hand, Trautvetteria caroliniensis (False bugbane) is not that well known and cultivated. It is the only species of the genus with a North American and Asian distribution. Trautvetteria populations from N. America and Asia were treated as different varieties for a while, but it seems that no differentiating characters could be found between them.

I found Trautvetteria to be an intriguing plant. The ‘naked’ inflorescences composed of only white stamens are very similar to those of Hydrastis canadensis; the palmate leaves are also hinting towards Hydrastis or Glaucidium, both from Ranunculaceae family. After all, an older synonym name is Hydrastis caroliniensis.

Of course, those not interested in botanical details are just growing it because it is a beautiful and interesting plant for part-shaded locations.

The fruit is called utricle and contains one seed; so in fact we will be sowing the fruits. It is not practical to remove the pericarp as seeds may get damaged if trying to do so. I only took a few out to take a picture.

Trautvetteria caroliniensis fruits and seeds

Like for many other species from Ranunculaceae, we have to assume that the seeds are best sown asap, probably requiring first a slightly warm/moist period before a cold one (otherwise we can expect germination in the second year). It is a rhizome forming species, so don’t expect it to flower sooner than 3-4 years.

*Ernst Rudolf von Trautvetter (1809-1889), was a botanist from Estonia who specialized in flora of the Caucasus and Central Asia; during his life he served as director of the Botanical Garden in St. Petersburg and Professor and director of the Botanical Garden in Kiev.

Enough talk, let’s get going  with the sowing! Time flies.

The first 2 orders containing the trio of North American species: Gillenia, Spigelia and Trautvetteria – receive a free pck. of Glaucidium seeds!!!