Canadian burnet

Here we call Sanguisorba canadensis, Canadian burnet or White Burnet (Fam. Rosaceae). On the other side of the border, some call it American burnet. We are all talking about the same species :)
With its grayish-green pinnate foliage and fragrant, fluffy, bottlebrush-like inflorescences in late summer (visited by many pollinators), the Canadian burnet makes a great addition to any garden. 

The reason I show the Canada Burnet is not only the glorious flowering, but also as a continuation to the posts on Zigadenus elegans ssp. glaucus and Zigadenus companions. As mentioned in those posts, we can grow in our gardens many species that in their natural habitat prefer moist places.
Canadian burnet can be found growing wild on river shores, stream banks, swamps, wet meadows and other wet locations. I personally never had the pleasure to encounter it in the wild, but I can vouch that it adapts perfectly to garden cultivation; maybe it will not grow to its maximum height (+/- 1.8 m) and it will spread less (not a bad thing).

Sanguisorba canadensis, Canadian burnet

Records mention that in various states of the US it is considered threatened or endangered. In general, given the general loss of wetlands the situations it will probably become worse even in our regions.

For Canada, it seems to be found growing wild only on the East side of the country in NS, NB and NF; I also found records from Quebec. There is a misrepresented record in E- BC flora under Sanguisorba canadensis with Sitka burnet as the common name, actually showing Sanguisorba stipulata.
Excellent pictures for the Canadian Burnet taken in the wild can be seen here:
https://inaturalist.ca/taxa/783544-Sanguisorba-canadensis/browse_photos

Because of late flowering, for seeds we have to patiently wait until September/October. Probably because it spreads by rhizomes and forms (vegetative) colonies, it doesn’t always sets a lot of seeds. Having different plants raised from seeds it is a better option for this purpose. Otherwise, the Canadian burnet is very easy to grow from seeds (warm germinator, fast growing seedlings).

Zigadenus companions

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For those in need of ideas for companion plants, I will show a few other native species growing together with Zigadenus elegans ssp. glaucus in my garden bed. You can attempt to grow them from seeds or source the plants from a specialized plant nursery.

Garden bed containing various native species that enjoy relatively moist situations – view from last year. Due to the drought, some species (especially L. cardinalis seem affected) are not flowering so abundant this year

The garden bed has a natural grading which allows the water to sit at the edging area when it rains. The substrate at depth is clay and in years with normal rainfalls, it remains a rather moist area with little additional watering; sun to part-shade.
Most of the following species will actually adapt to various moisture levels; some will remain shorter in height and flower less if it gets too dry, like it has happened this year, but they will get by.

Eupatorium perfoliatum (Boneset) with its white, fragrant inflorescences of small white flowers is attracting various pollinators,

Great Golden Digger Wasp on Eupatorium perfoliatum

especially solitary wasps that otherwise are not usually seen in the garden.
Lobelia siphilitica (Great blue Lobelia) and *Lobelia cardinalis.

*Geum rivale (Nodding avens), Iris versicolor and Iris hookeri
*Clinopodium arkansanum (Limestone calamint) is also crawling somewhere toward the edge; you know it is here every time a wonderful minty whiff comes into air. Although an alvars dweller, Clinopodium adapts very well to garden cultivation.

*Viola nephrophylla grows with abandon at the edge (self -sown seedlings appear all the time) and there are even few skunk cabbage seedlings! in need of rescuing this coming fall.
And I almost forgot to mention: *Houstonia caerulea, *Primula mistassinica and *Sisyrinchium mucronatum. Plus, *Parnassia glauca (Marsh grass-of-Parnassus) which makes for an excellent late summer bloomer.

Erythranthe guttata and Iris versicolor

One year *Erythranthe guttata, the Monkey flower, bloomed wonderfully at the edge, but it didn’t manage to reseed successfully (on the account on work done to enlarge the bed).
Talking grasses: *Carex grayi and Deschampsia caespitosa.

* – It means the plant was grown from seeds; more pictures and descriptions for each on the shop pages (seeds are not available for all species every year). We must be patient, some of these species mature their seeds in late September/October.

You can create micro-habitats in your garden by using the existent conditions and planting species which naturally grow in a similar habitat. I like this simplified definition of a habitat:
“A habitat is a place where an organism makes its home”.

Maybe you have a similar place, a woodland bed, or a sun baked area? There are species suitable for all situations – offer them a home!

Primula mistassinica

Geum rivale

Sisyrinchium mucronatum, June

Berries, capsules and Zigadenus

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Various berries and capsules have been collected lately: Podophyllum hexandrum (light pink flower), Clintonia borealis, Hydrastis canadensis; Aristolochia (iberica and also steupii!), Roscoea scillifolia fo. atropurpurea, Trientalis borealis and Trillium grandiflorum (few, smaller fruits due to the drought).

I mostly wanted to write about Zigadenus elegans ssp. glaucus (Mountain death camas), a beautiful NA native species (poisonous as well) that is flowering right now in the garden. Grown from seeds of course, where would I found to buy plants of Zigadenus? There may be few specialized nurseries offering it around the country, but certainly not nearby.

This is a species with a wide distribution in Canada and the US, with two subspecies that were initially recognized, which were then lumped together. The main differences are that Western populations have smaller plants and shorter inflorescences, while

Zigadenus elegans ssp. glaucus, young plant in cultivation

Eastern populations (ssp. glaucus) have taller plants with paniculate inflorescence and glaucous leaves and stems.

For many years I didn’t think about it, being familiar only with the plants growing in Bruce Peninsula, ON. A tall, slender plant with a few basal, bluish, grassy leaves and tall stems with large inflorescences (branched panicles) of peculiar white flowers with a thick greenish- yellow heart shaped glands. The flowers can take a reddish hue after pollination, and later capsules develop.
It likes a moist place, and the ‘wetter’ it is, the taller it gets. On not so wet soils, it just remains smaller in stature. In the picture to the right – a young plant, 4-5 years old. Older plants can reach 80+ cm in height and form much broader inflorescences.

After I got the chance one year to see specimens of Western populations in the mountains of SE BC, I understood why the common name is Mountain death camas, and also why some botanists have considered the two subspecies.
Both are beautiful in their own way, but different and I think a distinction should be made about the origins of plants and seeds.
Here’s a picture with a Zigadenus elegans specimen growing in a mountain rocky meadow in SE BC; it is not difficult to observe the differences.

Zigadenus elegans BC

In my garden, Zigadenus grows together with a few other native species, of the same ‘moist inclination’ (you can spot Lobelia siphilitica close by). About its companions we’ll talk later, after all the berries are cleaned and the seeds that need moist packing are placed in ‘safe’ storage.

 

Drought, seeds & keeping sowings moist

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The Seeds shop is closed now for website maintenance, seeds inventory and most important seeds collections. Re-opening in late August, I hope. But no worry, you will be kept up to date on flowering, fruiting & seeds happenings.

The first fleshy fruits are here! Yes, Actaea rubra (wild) and Triosteum pinnatifidum (garden) were just collected. From the dry side: Viola pubescens var. scabriuscula and Viola labradorica (wild), Erinus alpinus and Aconitum moldavicum (garden), to mention just a few. Quite a few other species are under a ‘seeds-ready’ watch at this time.

Actaea rubra

Triosteum pinnatifidum

Viola pubescens var. scabriuscula

Prolonged drought effects seen in SW Ontario

Sadly, the effect of drought is seen everywhere in SW Ontario; in some locations the mayapple (Podophyllum peltatum), Trillium grandiflorum and few other species going into an early dormancy and it is uncertain if there will be any seeds.
In the garden we can compensate somewhat by carefully watering especially the moisture loving species but even so, the seeds set is lower than in ‘normal’ years.

The hot/dry weather will continue throughout the summer and I would like to emphasize again that it is very important to keep your early sowings moist; otherwise the warm/moist stratification cycle will not count as such.
Besides keeping the trays in a shaded place and checking the moisture constantly, there is another solution; a friend reminded me about this way of keeping the summer sowings and so I will pass it forward to all others.

Nothing complicated: just place the pots inside a plastic box with a lid (still to be kept in a well shaded or in a cool place!). Do not close the lid tightly and check the pots regularly. Mine are in a cool garage right now.

Enjoy the summer and don’t forget to collect some seeds along the way; it is always good to have a reserve of seeds, plus there are seed exchanges in the fall and trades with friends. 

 

Catch them if you can II

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I finally had the pleasure a couple of days ago to collect seeds from my own Jeffersonia dubia! I knew that it is part of the ‘catch me if you can’ club, so I was prepared.

There are not too many (hopefully we will get ‘help’ from someone else with more seeds) but it is always exciting when you collect seeds from a plant that was grown from seeds. The circle is now complete :)
Our native Jeffersonia diphylla (Twinleaf) also flowered and now has a first capsule (yet to mature) – to many more next year!

Jeffersonia fruit is a green capsule which only changes to light yellow-green at maturity at which point the suture near the top opens like a lid. After opening, the capsule dries out fast and it turns downwards spreading the seeds on the ground. The seeds are equipped with elaiosomes, which you can notice that in case of Jeffersonia dubia have frilly appendages. The purpose of the elaiosomes is to attract the ants which help with the seeds dispersal.

Jeffersonia dubia opened capsule and seeds

Jeffersonia diphylla capsule

Do not expect your friends to gift you small divisions of these species because, like other species from the barberry family (Berberidaceae), they grow from a tight rhizome which is difficult to divide. Some specialty nurseries are selling them, but otherwise one has to grow them from seeds.
Luckily they are easy to germinate from fresh or moist packed seeds and not difficult to grow.

The beautiful Helleborus caucasicus is also close to ‘throwing out’ its seeds; same for Helleborus purpurascens and Stylophorum diphyllum.

Soon enough a new ‘wave’ of species from the category “best results when sown fresh” will be posted on the inventory. They will be announced. The on-going seeds collections are now posted on the front page on the Announcement corner (bottom, right corner).

Jeffersonia dubia

Helleborus caucasicus, April 2022

Helleborus caucasicus seeds

Helleborus purpurascens, April 2022

Trillium grandiflorum 2022

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While we bid adieu to Hepatica flowers, many other spring delights are awaiting for us in the forests and as well in our gardens.

One of the most important events for all woodlanders – the flowering of Trillium grandiflorum, is starting in SW Ontario! The cool, late spring makes it to coincide with Claytonia virginica flowering (spring beauty), which usually flowers earlier in the spring.

These are some of the most wonderful moments of our brief springtime, enjoy them while they last!

Trillium grandiflorum and Claytonia virginica

A last flower of Hepatica americana, notice the fruit heads

Trillium grandiflorum (2)

Trillium grandiflorum, Podophyllum peltatum, Waldsteinia

Trillium grandiflorum

Trillium grandiflorum

Uvularia grandiflora

Viola labradorica

Amelanchier laevis, Allegheny serviceberry

Carya ovata, Shagbark hickory

Thalictrum dioicum

Pileated woodpecker

Seedlings awards

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In a blink of an eye the spring will rush over us with its myriad of gardening tasks and enjoyments; Hepatica will also start blooming :-)  So, it is time for the 2022 indoor seedlings wrap up and awards presentation.

First prize in the following categories:

The unexpected: Androsace carnea
A whole tray with sowing pots was waiting in the garage in late December for the first snowfall before being taken outdoors. Luckily, I noticed the tiny green specks in the Androsace pot before doing so.

The cutest: Campanula alpina var. bucegiensis
I am partial toward this little bellflower from the Carpathian Mts.; maybe cuteness is also in the eye of the beholder.

The most repeated: Anthemis carpatica var. pyretriformis
I’ve tried growing this species at least four times. Easy to germinate and grow, hard to find a suitable location in the garden…I will persevere.

The most reliable: Aquilegia species
Aquilegia formosa, recently transplanted, receiving the prize for all other Aquilegia species sowed this year.

The desirable/2 years germination: Degenia velebitica
Degenia velebitica is an endemic species from Croatian mountains. The germination is problematic; please see the *note at the end of this post.

The desirable/fast germination: Phacelia sericea
After encountering the silky Phacelia flowering high in the Canadians Rockies, who wouldn’t want to grow it?

The heartbreaker: Iris dichotoma
I tried the Vesper Iris in various locations in the garden, and none were on its liking long term. Even so, it is worth the effort to grow it from seeds periodically.

Best in the annual category: Orlaya grandiflora
An easy win from only 2 annual species sowed; the white laceflower is a very handsome and pollinator friendly species.

Most aromatic: Ziziphora clinopodioides

Best growth in ‘new species’ class: Gypsophila patrinii

We thank you all for following the seeds & seedlings show here at BotanyCa and for your support. Looking forward to celebrate new seeds, good growing, the beauty of nature and of our gardens in the 2022 season!

*Note: Degenia velebitica ecology germination.
I sowed the seeds last year in late summer following the findings of the article that the seeds from wild plants germinate best at high temperatures (22-31C, ie. sowing in late summer/early fall).
It didn’t work out (there was 1 seedling) maybe because the provenience of the seeds was from a cultivated plant, already adapted to different environmental conditions (the epigenetic factor). In any case, even after cold/moist stratification the percentage of germination was very low, but happy to have even just a few seedlings.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/27189176_Germination_ecology_of_seeds_of_endemic_species_Degenia_velebitica_Degen_Hayek_Brassicaceae

HWT

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I am doing a last few sowings using the HWT (hot water treatment). As explained and shown in previous postings, the HWT applied for Fabaceae species (and not only), causes fine fissures in the seed coats and allows for water imbibition, eliminating the need for the cold/moist stratification period.

Those unfamiliar with this method can follow the links to read more about it and to see more pictures:
Continuing the sowing: in hot water; Updates to the HWT; FAQ – hot water treatment

I am trying two new Astragalus species: Astragalus detritalis, debris milkvetch, a Colorodo native, with bright purple flowers and

Astragalus detritalis seeds aspect after a second HWT; noticed the swollen seeds which need to be sown; then repeat the HWT again

Astragalus glycyphyllos, licorice milkvetch. You need to repeat the treatment 2-3+ times, especially for Astragalus species, but otherwise all is easy and some seeds may even start to germinate in the water.

And I’ll persevere, as long as I have seeds, with Oxytropis halleri. One plant flowered from my last attempt, but unfortunately vanished. It may be that our hot, humid summers are not to its liking, but it is worth trying it again. Oxytropis species are really hard to maintain in garden cultivation.

If you didn’t use the hot water method yet, give it a try. It is one of the easiest germination treatments to apply; for sure it beats sanding your fingers together with the seeds ;)

We cannot really generalize, but the majority species from Fabaceae family are easy germinators. The HWT is working well for: Astragalus, Baptisia, Hedysarum, Lupinus,

Oxytropis halleri

Oxytropis, Thermopsis. Considering how Lathyrus vernus self-sown seeds germinate in the garden, it would probably benefit as well. However, I didn’t manage to ‘break’ the Senna seeds with the HWT.
Species that would germinate at warm even without the HWT can also benefit from it to speed up the germination (Amphicarpaea).

Lindera and the blue cohosh

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Lindera benzoin, Northern spicebush, Forsythia of the wilds

Early in the spring (mid-April in some years) the flowering of Lindera, which grows as an understory, lightens up the deciduous woodlands. The small, abundant, bright yellow flowers are a sign of the long awaited spring and very useful to the early pollinators! The species it is also a favorite larval host for the beautiful Spicebush swallowtail and Promethea silkmoth.

Later in the fall, the foliage turns yellow providing a wonderful background for the shiny red, abundant fruits (female and male plants need to be grown together). They provide food for countless bird species.

The fleshy part of the fruits was/it is chopped and utilized as an allspice, hence the common name.
Read more about it and its fruits, seeds and germination: Here

Lindera benzoin, early spring

Lindera benzoin, fall

Caulophyllum thalictroides, Blue cohosh

How many times I have written about Caulophyllum? One of my favourite wildflower because of the purple shoots that emerge in early spring and the beautiful foliage: a well grown plant of Caulophyllum can be easily taken for a peony. It is also an important medicinal plant.

The desire to grow it from seeds for my garden lead to an in depth study on its seeds and germination pattern. The seeds are hydrophilic to extreme! I repeat it, because people are still trying to grow it from dry seeds = dead seeds.

Caulophyllum giganteum, early spring

Caulophyllum thalictroides, early spring foliage

Caulophyllum thalictroides, summer

Caulophyllum and Trillium grandiflorum

Caulophyllum thalictroides seeds

Caulophyllum giganteum seedlings

Few other posts on Caulophyllum: Purple beasties, Berberidaceae seeds and embryos, Caulosaurus

I will end with a picture taken last year in the garden. One more writing tomorrow and we’re done, spring is nearing and there are so many things to be done seedlings wise, before the purple beasties emerge :)

Caulophyllum giganteum garden grown, about 5 years old

After-ripening

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There are so many interesting seeds-related subjects that sometimes it is hard to choose what to write, or the time is too short.

An email arrived yesterday saying:
“I thought I’d better drop you a line before I forget. Have been now been giving most of my north american seeds at least a week of moist and warm temps before chilling. Today, after less than a week of 65 to 70 degrees f I have 25 yellow asclepias germinated and now in cells. I have had such luck with Asclepias tuberosa that I have collected and germinated so I am not shocked but especially since these are the yellow form, I did not expect such germination.
Most impressive, Thank you, Regards Catherine”

My answer was, besides thank you and so on… that the very good germination at room temperature may be due to the ‘older’ seed lot from 2020. (Last year there were no fruits on the yellow Asclepias). Maybe others are also familiar with the knowledge that ‘older’ Asclepias seeds germinate better than fresh ones, which could be explained by the after-ripening (post-maturation) requirement.

I don’t know for sure of this is the reason; usually I recommend to sow Asclepias species in late fall/early winter because there are some which require a cold/moist stratification for good germination (A. exaltata for example). If they don’t, it doesn’t matter, they will germinate in late spring when it gets warm.

 In any case, it is a good time to discuss a bit about the AR.
First, what is this after-ripening? Some define after-ripening (AR) as “a time and environment regulated process occurring in the dry seed, which determines the germination potential of seeds”.

Very simple, I would say that after-ripening is a process through which dry seeds are ‘preparing’ themselves to get out of dormancy and germinate, if and when the right conditions arrive. The AR involves the loss of water content of the seeds up to certain point which naturally happens in nature after the seeds ripen and fall on the ground/remain in the dry fruits.

Not all dry seeds species require an after-ripening period. It is known for sure that many many grasses require AR, but otherwise we do not have a comprehensive list of species that require AR. I only know about Asclepias, Polygala, and various Brassicaceae species.

AR is a complex process during which various physiological and molecular mechanisms are taking place within the dry seeds. If for some reason AR is not complete, the seeds will not germinate even if they are placed in proper condition (water, light/dark…); instead they will remain dormant (eventually they will germinate, but give them time…).

It would be impossible to approximate the exact duration for AR I guess, considering it cannot be the same for all species. Usually seeds collected in the summer and kept dry at room temperature should have enough time for after-ripening until late fall/early winter.

It has been shown that increasing the temperature at which seeds are after-ripened generally increases the rate of dormancy loss, but on the other hand, at high temperatures, the seed viability loss accelerate. So, it is a give and take if we want to manipulate AR or store the seeds long-term.

Conclusion:

Just like many seeds require to be sown right away (those recalcitrant ones), others require a ‘quiet time’ by themselves :) in a dry state, to be ready for the germination.
For gardeners and small operations, after collecting the seeds it is best to let them dry in paper bags in the house until late fall (in contrast to putting them in the fridge right away!). Exception: fleshy fruits/seeds which need to be cleaned first.

And yes, the after ripening requirement could be another reason that sometimes we stare at an ‘empty’ sowing pot wondering what went wrong.

Not one boring minute when dealing with plants and seeds :)
*I am always happy to receive good/interesting germination updates about the seeds you received. If you have bad news, it is fine as well. Maybe we can figure what went wrong together.

Something old & something new

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Sowing too much already, haven’t we? Well, there are much worse vices than this one. The indoors sowing is almost done and a few species are starting to germinate already.

I always try to test some of the new seeds additions, which I suspect by association with similar species, to be warm germinators.
And indeed, Silene turgida, Ziziphora clinopodioides and Gypsophila patrinii have germinated after about 10 days at room temperature.

Ziziphora clinopodioides seedlings

Reminder: if you try to germinate something at room temperature and nothing happens after 3-4 weeks, move the pot in a cold location for 1-2 months and then bring it back to warmth.

Also, I just sowed, as usual, a small batch of Aquilegia species with GA3 treatment (and a few others like Thalictrum petaloideum). Many Aquilegia species are short lived by nature and not always manage to reseed by themselves. But they are so easy from seeds!

Aquilegia flavescens, yellow columbine; a species not as often cultivated like A. chysantha, that can be found in the subalpine meadows of the Rocky Mountains.

Aquilegia flavescens, wild habitat

Aquilegia chaplinei, cultivated

Re-sowed:  Aquilegia chaplinei, Chaplin’s columbine, another yellow flowered species of North America. This small, delicate species grows well in a moist location and I don’t seem to find a good place for it. Plus, it has been devoured by the columbine sawfly so I am trying for a larger population (meaning 3-4 plants).

Thinking long spurs, Aquilegia Origami white is a very good substitute for the long spurred native Aquilegia coerulea, the Colorado blue columbine.

And something blue for yet another snow day: Salvia nutans, the nodding sage. A most intriguing and rarely cultivated Salvia (seeds were offered 2 years ago) which unfortunately had suddenly perished last summer after flowering (I suspect a soil born infection based on the symptoms). Just when I thought I found a perfect companion for the gas plant (Dictamnus albus). Both enjoy a full sun, well drained location & calcareous substrate.

 

Salvia nutans and Dictamnus albus

Salvia nutans, Nodding sage

Salvia nutans seedlings

Advice:
Always collect and keep a back-up reserve of seeds from your most cherished plants, you may never know when you need them.
Always try to grow 2-3 specimens of your favorite plants; take action and propagate them before is too late (seeds, cuttings, division).

Ready, start, go – 2022!

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February has arrived (with a vengeance) and I hope many are preparing to start their indoor sowings.

Silene suecica

I have written about indoor sowing before, but maybe is good to mention again the ‘warm germinators’.  This is the term used in the catalogue to describe the dry seeds that will germinate at room temperature (+/- 17-21C) after a certain (and variable) period of time.

I think it is a very good method especially for rockery species which always benefit from being planted in the ground at a young stage (Dianthus, Draba, Silene, Anthemis, Hedysarum, Oxytropis, Papaver….).

With so many light systems available nowadays, it is worth giving it a try. It is most rewarding and also therapeutic to grow something new during the winter months!  Start with just 3-4 species if you are new at this. They will be perfect for a small trial-out container planting.

Draba haynaldii grown-up seedlings

You know the concept of going to do the grocery when you are not hungry, right? Your ‘plants budget’ will certainly improve when the garden centers start offering perennials in late spring!

Also check out the Germination guide of the Ontario Rock Garden & HP Society page: Here
Advice on using acid gibberellic: Here
Hot water treatment: Here
Advice for sowing small/fine seeds: Here
Soaking and nicking the seeds: Here

 

 

*It can happen that species given as ‘warm germinators’ to not ‘comply’ to the rule, and vice-versa, ‘cold germinators’ starting to germinate at room temperature.

Echinops crispus seedlings

The source of seeds: wild coll. versus garden coll., growing conditions of the mother-plants and other factors, all can influence the germination pattern. When it happens, place the pot in cold location for 3-4 weeks. And, no matter what, it is best to keep your pots for 2-3 years if possible; some seeds can enter a second dormancy and will need multiple alternate cycles of cold/warm for germination.

The list below is not exclusive and it includes only contains cold hardy genera/species that I have personally germinated over the years at room temperature. I made notes for the species that I have started using GA3 (by habit) and those that will germinate best and faster if using a HWT (hot water treatment).

Acinos alpinus
Allium thunbergii and few other Allium
Aquilegia canadensis and most other Aquilegia – with GA3 treatment
Amphicarpaea
Arenaria
Arabis species
Androsace some species
Anthemis carpatica and other Anthemis species
Arisaema triphyllum and other Arisaema
Artemisia
Astragalus (with HWT)
Asphodeline lutea, A. taurica
Aurinia saxatilis
Alyssum
Baptisia australis (using the HWT)
Berkheya purpurea
Bukiniczia cabulica

Campanula, many species
Caragana (HWT)
Carlina acaulis
Calycanthus floridus
Centaurea triumfettii, C. orientalis, and other Centaurea species
Cerastium alpinum ssp. lanatum
Cercis canadensis
Cirsium
Clematis alpina and other Clematis

Draba species
Delphinium grandiflorum and other Delphinium species
Dianthus nardiformis
Dianthus superbus ssp. sajanensis, most other Dianthus species

Echinops crispus and other Echinops
Edraianthus graminifolius and other Edraianthus (not all species though)
Erinus alpinus
Gypsophila

Hedysarum (using the HWT)
Hieracium lanatum

Ipomopsis
Iris dichotoma
Iris domestica

Incarvillea

Jurinea mollis
Kernera saxatilis
Lathyrus (with HWT)
Lilium formosanum var.pricei
Linaria spp.
Lychnis ssp.

Erythranthe guttata
Matthiola
Minuartia, some species
Monarda
Papaver species
Paronychia
Phyteuma orbiculare and others
Platycodon

Primula japonica and other Primula spp. (some exceptions)
Pulsatilla vulgaris, other species, hybrids,
Rhododendron species
Roscoea species

Salvia
Sedum ssp. and Sempervivums
most Silene species
Scabiosa caucasica, other Scabiosa spp.
Scutellaria pontica
Syneilesis

Thermopsis (using HWT)
Thalictrum cf. foetidum, few other Thalictrum with GA3 treatment
Thymus species
Viola – some species

 

 

So, get ready: wash your pots, have handy sowing mix, labels, the seeds and then go! Start first with those species which take longer to germinate (or unknown) and leave the very fast germinators for mid-February, early March. Good luck!

Delphinium grandiflorum

Silene suecica

Centaurea orientalis

Echinops crispus

Papaver chakassicum

Aquilegia olympica copy