Spetlem: Lewisia rediviva

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The bitteroot seeds I sown a month ago have sprouted. I looked at the little seedlings and thought about their story; the story of spetlem, from a time when the species wasn’t even yet described!

Lewisia rediviva seedlings; seeds sown January 4th, kept at room temp. for +/- 10 days, then in the garage (+/- 5C). I was planning to put the sowings outdoors but there was no snow for a while…The germination pattern can vary depending on the collection site (origin for these seeds: Butte Co., California)

An excerpt from an article recounting the discovery of the species during the Lewis and Clark expedition, available here: http://www.lewis-clark.org/article/311.
“An old Flathead Indian woman sat weeping on the bank of the In-schu-te-schu, or Red Willow River, in the shadow of the Chi-quil-quil-kane, or Red Mountains, singing a death song for her starving children. The rising sun heard her plaint, and sent a red spirit-bird to comfort her. The bird promised that from each of her falling tears a new flower would grow, tinted with the rose of his feathers and the white of her hair, and springing from a root as bitter as her sorrow but as nourishing as her love. The prophecy came true, and her people called the plant spetlem -“bitter”.”

Lewisia rediviva in flower; with many thanks to the provider of the picture.

How the bitteroot came to be collected during the Lewis and Clark expedition(1804/06), how it was named and by whom, and more importantly how profound this little species was intertwined with Indigenous Peoples  lives – I hope you will read about it all in the article provided. It is a great story, especially for a cold, snowy day!

Advice for growing it, and more beautiful pictures, in this thread from SRGC forum: http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=15817.0

 

Results on Rubus chamaemorus germination – update 2 and 3

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For those who didn’t follow the story from the beginning, please see these links:
Homework for today: Rubus chamaemorus germination – December, 2019
Preliminary results on Rubus chamaemorus germination – update 1 (Jan. 10, 2020)

Lot#2 has been eliminated (the seeds were damaged during the endocarp removal).

Lot#1 – the first signs of germination appeared pretty fast, with the radicle emerging first, in most cases.
A few seeds were also discarded, but almost all the remaining ones showed signs of germination (radicle growth and greening of cotyledons).
The container/and the pot with transplanted germinated seeds have been kept under light at +/- 20C.

Rubus chamaemorus seeds starting to germinate, Jan 19

Rubus chamaemorus germinated seed

The main aim of the experiment was to see if the seeds indeed germinate at warm/room temperature, and they do.
But excising the seeds from the pyrenes is not an easy job and many will get damaged during the process. Especially for large lots of fruits, it is a completely unpractical method.

Rubus chamaemorus pyrenes: hwt x 3 times, placed at warm/light

Another attempt is being made by using a hot water treatment (hwt) on the pyrenes. The hot water treatment gave excellent results last year for replacing the mechanical scarification usually employed for Fabaceae seeds.

Lot#3 was treated with boiling water 3 times, one day after another starting on Jan. 16, and then placed in the same conditions like lot#2. We’ll see if the treatment was enough to produce fissures in the endocarps and allow germination without extracting the seeds.
Update will follow.

 

Recap:
If Rubus chamaemorus fruits are sowed, they require 270 days of cold/moist stratification in order for the endocarp to broke down and allow the seeds to germinate. Translation: for fruits sowing in late fall, expect some germination in the third spring after sowing.

If you manage to remove the endocarps without damaging the seeds, they will germinate quite fast at warm (room temp.)/light.

 

Update 3 – regarding germination trials out (2021):

First, because I had a question about it: what went wrong with excising the seeds from within the pyrenes?
The problem was that using a very sharp scalpel, the seeds were damaged while cutting through the pericarp. Microscopic cuts or punctures led to the damage of the seeds and embryos.

Unless one is a surgeon, I don’t see it as a feasible method, even if the few unharmed seeds did try to germinate.

So, in early spring of 2021 I went back to a classical method of scarification used by plant nurseries for this type of ‘seeds’ by using  sulphuric acid. This is not something that can be applied at home and I don’t know if it is much in use in the nurseries nowadays; out of curiosity I had to give it a try.

One lot of seeds was treated with sulphuric acid for 45 min and another one for 1 h.

Rubus chamaemorus pyrenes – H2SO4 treatment in April 2021, kept in Petri dish on moist towel; picture taken Sept. 12/2021

Afterwards, the ‘seeds’ were kept under lights at room temperature, and… nothing happened. Some seeds seem a bit enlarged but obviously the time wasn’t enough for the endocarp to be eroded enough in order to allow water imbibition.
Later on I found one study suggesting a 3h treatment with sulphuric acid; maybe I will try it this coming winter.

 

Also, another more friendly method, like nicking, was also tried with no success.
Then I left a sample of pyrenes sitting in water since March! I thought that some may give in and imbibe but it didn’t happen.

 

Rubus chamaemorus pyrenes – after receiving hot water treatment x 3 times in spring 2021, then kept in water (regularly changed); picture taken Sept.12/2021

Conclusion: for home gardeners sowing as usual and patience may provide the best outcome in regards to germination of this species. Repeated cycles of warm/cold/warm/cold are necessary for the endocarp to broke down and allow water imbibition of the seeds and start the germination process.

Blue-eyes Wednesday

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The June garden review (in progress) it is a good occasion to update the info on Sisyrinchium mucronatum (Slender blue-eyed grass).
Seeds offered as S. montanum for a couple of years were probably a mixture of both species (please see the note on the S. montanum page).

When the light blue, delicate flowers start swaying atop of the grassy leaved tight clump in June, I always wonder why we don’t cultivate more the blue-eyed grass species.
Besides their beauty, all are super cold hardy, pollinator friendly, not requiring a lot of space and good companions to other native and non-native species.
Close to S. mucronatum I grow Primula mistassinica, Parnasia glauca, Viola nephrophylla; last summer were added young plants of Zigadenus elegans and  Prenanthes racemosa. Any other species preferring a slightly moist location (even temporarily flooded) in full sun to part-shade, would be good companions.

Sisyrinchium mucronatum (Slender blue-eyed grass) flowering in June

Preliminary results on Rubus chamaemorus germination – update 1

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January 10, 2020
The first post on R. chamaemorus (December 2019): HERE

First, a simple, short presentation of the Rubus fruit so that we understand the photos. The fruit is an aggregate of drupes. Each drupe presents a fleshy part (intended as a reward for dispersers) and a ‘pyrene’ in which the seed is protected by the hard fruit endocarp similar to the peach stone. Inside the pyrene, there is a seed covered by a thin seedcoat.
The embryo in Rubus species is fully formed, showing a small radicle and two large cotyledons.

Rubus chamaemorus pyrene

The endocarp of the pyrene is very hard, reason for the difficulties in germinating the seeds.
We shall see how to remove it in a simple way and determine if the seeds germinate at warm or need a cold period, to clarify the contradictory existent sources. I realize now that this may be due to the fact that some people tried to germinate the pyrenes while others tried the actual seeds!
When sowing the pyrenes, 270 days of cold/moist stratification are said to be required for germination, meaning 2 years (Baskin & Baskin).

Two lots of pyrenes were used.
Lot#1 was soaked in water since Dec. 18, with the water changed once in a while.
Lot#2 was soaked and also treated with hot water twice at interval of one week (see the ‘hot water treatment’ post).

I sectioned the first few pyrenes last week just to see how it goes, but the germination experiment was started only two days ago; that means about 3 weeks of soaking in water.

The endocarps were removed with a scalpel under a magnifying lamp. The easy way to remove them is by making a small section on the curved side of the pyrene, towards the rounded end. This way you avoid damaging the embryo radicle, which is at the opposite end.

 Rubus chamaemorus; pyrenes showing where to section to remove the endocarp

Despite the recommendation of the article presented in the first post, I find no need for nicking the seedcoat, which is very thin and sometimes even slides out easily (especially in lot #2).

Findings: the pyrenes treated with hot water were definitely easier to cut than the ones only soaked in water. For lot# 2 some of the seeds were already soft, a sign that the soaking time was too long. It is clear that the hot water treatment is very effective, leading to fine fissures in the endocarp. The soaking time should be reduced a bit, maybe at two weeks.

After removing the endocarps, the seeds were placed right away in containers (with lids) prepared with a layer of moist vermiculite and a coffee filter on top; this will allow for easy observation. I borrowed the idea from a friend who used it for stratification of seeds in the fridge.

The seeds (some still with half of the endocarp) and the embryos are sitting on top of the coffee filter, which can be easily replaced in case some of them develop mold (quite possible)

Considering the aspect of lot#2 of pyrenes and seeds, I wonder if the hot water treatment (done a bit differently) may not be enough to allow the seeds to germinate (?). I still have a small lot of pyrenes and will start one more treatment right away.
Removing the endocarps is not a practical solution for large scale sowing, plus other Rubus species (all with hard endocarps) have very small pyrenes.

So, until the next update – let’s have the kettle going!

Special thanks: to Trond Hoy for providing the bakeapple seeds and to Keith Baldie for sharing with me his method of stratification.

Practical considerations for sowing in late fall and winter

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For those who don’t know it yet…the devil is in the details, sometimes.

Updated to: sowing in”late fall-winter” (for those in cold climates, zone 6 and below)

Sowing in late fall – early winter – what is different than fall sowing?
Most important is to consider that seeds must enter the cold cycle well imbibed with water. When sowing in late fall when temperatures are still well above freezing, this is not a problem. By the time the cold arrives (meaning temperatures around 0C and below), the seeds have already soaked a lot of water and will enter the cold stratification well prepared.

But when sowing in late fall (November) and advancing into the winter, even if the pots are well watered, the seeds may not be able to absorb the water fast enough when they are placed right away outdoors.
For this reason it is best to keep the new pots with sowings indoors for about 2-3 (4)weeks, and move them outdoors in the cold after that.

The same concept applies if you want to start the cold/moist stratification in the fridge.
Place the seeds in the moist medium of your choice (vermiculite, sand or wet towels) and keep them at room temperature first for a few days, before placing them in the fridge. You will be surprised by the change most seeds will undergo while absorbing water in only a few days.

I can exemplify with Fritillaria and Tulipa seeds that I plan to grow under lights indoors. In this purpose I kept them at room temp. for about a week before placing them in the fridge; in some cases the embryos are already visible (hover the mouse for names).

Tulipa tschimganica seeds

Fritillaria latifolia seeds

Talking about stratifying seeds in the fridge, please consider first what species you want to germinate. Most are best sowed and placed outdoors.
In the case of species known to require low temperatures for dormancy breaking (like various Gentiana, Saxifraga, most Ranunculaceae), stratification in the fridge at +/-4C is not a good option (unless you have a fridge dedicated to seeds and can vary the temp.).

True that in case of a mild winter seeds may not germinate in the first spring, even if sowed outdoors! Breaking the dormancy requires temperatures below zero for various periods of time, and if specific cold period requirements are not satisfied in the first winter, the seeds will need an additional cold cycle to germinate. In this latter case, keep your pots and take care of them until the second spring.

Talking moist packed seeds: a reminder that these seeds are in full development by late fall (their warm cycle completed and the cold one started), and in some cases there may be signs that the radicles are just about to emerge (a classic example is Asarum canadense which always starts to germinate somewhere in November; if they get too advanced then the shipping will be stopped).
The moist packed seeds require a cold cycle for breaking shoot dormancy at this point, so they should be sown asap and placed outdoors. best option is to use a cold frame, cold garage, or in absence of these options bundle them together and fingers crossed for snow (the pots can also be covered with a thermal fleece, tarps, in case it gets very cold with no snow cover).

Homework for today: Rubus chamaemorus germination

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Recently I exchanged few words about the Rubus chamaemorus (bakeapple) with someone who purchased seeds. While reading again a short but quite explicit article on the subject, I thought it would be good to do a little experiment of my own.
Although it needs a specialized habitat to grow well, R. chamaemorus is a desirable species; unfortunately difficult to germinate due to the very hard endocarp (the ‘seeds’ are actually pyrenes ;).

Today I had to pack seeds again and it was the perfect occasion: I counted two lots of pyrenes for the experiment. I intend to soak one lot as usual in water and for the other one I’ll use the ‘hot water’ treatment to see if it makes it easier to remove the endocarp.

I will update this post along the experiment, but until then anyone interested can do  a bit of homework:

GERMINATION STUDIES OF BAKEAPPLE (CLOUDBERRY) SEEDS – cjps79-010

Other studies also suggests removing of the endocarp to obtain germination but there are contradictory reports about the germination temperature.

 

 

Shipping News!

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 Starting December 14th, 2019 all imported seeds in EU countries have to be accompanied by phytosanitary certificates. Of course that small companies, Plant Societies and hobbies like growing plants from seeds weren’t taken into consideration. Why would they be?
We will wait and see how things evolve and how all the countries involved will manage to impose the regulation.

Maybe species lists like the AU Bicon will be set in place later or maybe we’ll work with a Small lot of seeds permit; no one can tell more for the time being. We will be ready to work with either one if/when the case.
Providing phytosanitary certificates for a large variety of plant species, with many collected in the wild it is not an option; and they would probably be too expensive in regards with the low cost of the seeds. Until then, we will try to work with the following shipping rates, which will be adjusted as we go…

Current shipping options for EU customers
Sorry but the few non- EU countries are included in the same group

3-6 seeds pck. (Fast shipping rate, only very small size seeds, dry)  –  4.75$
3- 7 pck. any seeds (restrictions apply for very large seeds)  – 6.85$    
For special requests, especially from non-EU countries customers, please use the: Contact form.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The heart

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While preparing orders last couple of days, I stumbled upon a perfectly heart shaped seed among Fritillaria atropurpurea stock.
I took it as a sign that I must also sow few seeds and put aside a tiny package for myself, heart included :)

Fritillaria atropurpurea seeds

 

There is one last pck. left for Fritillaria atropurpurea. All other Frits sold out at the moment, thank you – merci

 

Reminder: this is the best time to start sowing species that require cold/moist stratification!!!

Beyond flowers II

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Sanguinaria canadensis, our most beloved spring harbinger must be appreciated beyond its flowers; albeit beautiful, they last only few days. In very dry years, the leaves may go dormant early. However, with enough moisture they remain lovely until late fall!

Sanguinaria canadensis (bloodroot) pictured a few days ago

Asarum canadense it is also a ‘beyond flowers’ species; the flowers appear at the ground level and are barely noticeable. But the leaves emerge in early spring and throughout the season will keep very good company as a groundcover for other species, plus they remain decorative until late October.

Asarum canadense (wild ginger) leaves spotting the woodland floor in late October

Soon, only the queens of the woodlands (i.e. Hepatica) will be reigning over the forest, together with a few loyal evergreens (Chimaphila, various sedges and Mitchella repens). Their foliage will be replaced by the new leaves only in the spring after the flowering.

Asarum canadense and Hepatica acutiloba foliage in late October

Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix

You can grow these species together, like in their natural habitat (add few Trilliums and Erythronium americanum, Claytonia virginica…) or in various other combinations.

Sanguinaria canadensis spring

Asarum canadense spring

Hepatica acutiloba spring foliage

Appreciate them beyond the flowers, spring, summer and fall!

 

Rock polypody

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Playing with Polypodium virginianum spores? Have a mossy boulder? maybe better to proceed to sowing :)

Polypodium virginianum spores

Something to consider

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A couple of days ago I stumbled upon Hepatica acutiloba happily growing in the rock fissure of a mossy boulder (with Polystichum lonchitis) and it took me a bit by surprise; we don’t often think about H. acutiloba as a species for crevice rock gardening, do we?
It is something good to consider by the look of it.

Hepatica acutiloba

Coincidence, today I packed seeds of H. acutiloba-pastel mix, and there are more available.
Something else good to consider ;)

Friday’s Seeds: Hylomecon seed please stand up

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I meant to write about this a while ago; it was never a good time for it.
The question of how to easily recognize Hylomecon from the Stylophorum species had been long clarified and I see no point to repeat it all.
If you want/need to know how to correctly identify Hylomecon , Stylophorum diphyllum and Stylophorum lasiocarpum, please read this well written post on Garden Myths blog:
https://www.gardenmyths.com/hylomecon-japonica-which-is-the-real-plant/

Now that we know how to distinguish the species, with good close-up pictures of the seeds we can avoid to mistake one for another in the seeds exchanges ;)

If we would have the chance to look at fresh seeds, it wouldn’t be hard to distinguish them because the seeds are equipped with particular elaiosomes, quite beautiful in the case of S. diphyllum. Unfortunately after the seeds dry out, or after they are placed in moist storage, these fatty structures fade rapidly.

Regrettably Hylomecon vernalis (syn. H. japonica) rarely, if ever, sets seeds in cultivation in our region (and elsewhere, I understand).
I suspect there is a self- incompatibility problem, the majority of plants belonging to the same clone, which was vegetatively propagated over a long period of time.

I have watched it closely in my garden in the last two years hoping that maybe the others are just missing the seeds (the capsules are explosive). But no, the capsules form and seem OK, only to disappoint upon opening. You can imagine the excitement when I received H. vernalis seeds in late summer! And moist packed no less! Because of this I postponed washing them out to take proper pictures.

Let’s see a comparison now; all seeds after moist storage since late summer and on 1 mm grid.

Hylomecon vernalis (forest poppy): notice the glabrous capsule, seeds more or less 2 mm in lenght.

 

Stylophorum lasiocarpum (Chinese celandine poppy): notice the hairy capsules and smaller size seeds, always less than 2 mm

Stylophorum diphyllum, the NA woodland poppy: larger, ovoidal capsule and the largest seeds by comparison (most often 2+ mm)

 

Symplocarpus and the shipping rates

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Yes, Symplocarpus seeds are in stock and customers are starting to notice it.
Before more questions arise, especially from new customers excited to find seeds not offered by someone else, an explanation for ordering/shipping of species with large seeds.

Right on the Symplocarpus foetidus page one can read:
“These seeds cannot be ordered using the international low shipping rates; not on AU Bicon list
Limit 1 pck./order”

This means that for international orders one must place an order over 25$. The minimum seeds pck. allowed for orders over 25$ is 5.
Of course all is detailed here: Shipping & delivery

Why? some may ask.

Symplocarpus foetidus fruit

The Symplocarpus seeds are very large and moist packed; this makes it for a large packet that cannot be sent via letter size.
Why 5 pck.?
Does it make any sense to send bubble envelopes across the ocean with 1 pck. of seeds inside?

An alternative to the plastic bubble would be nice (and they are not really necessary in most cases) but the cardboards envelopes tried are too heavy (for now). In conclusion: please read all the info available before starting to place orders.
For special requests regarding the 1 pck. limit, please use the Contact page.
Thank you.

Greetings from Australia

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Sent by young seedlings of Erythronium americanum – courtesy of Vivienne.

Erythronium americanum seedlings

 

And a long overdue note for AU customers:
Orders from AU are most than welcomed, dry or moist seeds, although the latter take a lot of time to process. I am always very happy to receive updates, especially about the germination of moist packed species which many have tried before with no success from dry seeds.

However, I have to emphasize again that in order to navigate the Bicon system collaboration from all parts involved is required.
Please read and comply with the instructions outlined in the Shipping and Delivery page. Failure to do so only results in refunded orders (and added frustrations).
Thank you.

Yearning for Paris?

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The seeds are in stock!
Reminder: when kept moist, Paris quadrifolia seeds will start to germinate (root only) somewhere in October/early November.

Also, Clintonia borealis and Caulophyllum are back in stock.

Baneberries

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Like it or not, the colored berries of the baneberries are heralds of the summer’s end. Looking at my Actaea pachypoda raised from seeds four years ago, I realized that I forgot to mention the baneberries when talking about what species should be sown first.

Actaea pachypoda (doll’s- eyes, white baneberry)

Actaea pachypoda, A. pachypoda fo. rubrocarpa  and Actaea rubra (in the featured image) will germinate in the first spring only when sown right away in late summer/early fall  (a slightly warm period required before the winter cold).
A bit slow to start but then they grow with the speed of light. Very useful in dry shaded locations.

Seeds are in stock and also included in the fast shipping category.
A reminder that various species (with small, medium size seeds) can be purchased now by the customers  with international destinations using this category (2-6 pck. for 4.50$ flat rate).
More species will be added as as the inventory gets updated.

In need of companions for a native species shaded spot? The following can be usually found growing with the baneberries: Thalictrum dioicum, Hydrophyllum virginianum, Mitella diphylla, Viola labradorica, Asclepias exaltata; from the moist packed seeds: Maianthemum spp., Uvularia, Trillium, Asarum canadense, Sanguinaria canadensis, to mention just a few…