Probably the last call (!) for the moist packed seeds; we have again a window of opportunity for shipping, but it won’t last long.

New seeds in stock for today: Hamamelis virginiana,Viburnum lentago (Nannyberry), plus a replenished stock for Triosteum aurantiacum. They can be grown together in the garden as they enjoy similar conditions.

For those unfamiliar with it, a Hamamelis virginiana plant portrait follows next, with the emphasis on a very cool method of seeds dispersal. You can still find the American witch-hazels in flower in the woods, and who knows, maybe even witness a few ‘flying’ seeds!
Having a late October flowering species it is a real treat for the cold climate of Eastern Canada (and not only). It is not a ‘mistake’, it happens every year. The bright yellow flowers with a spicy fragrance that adorn the usual bare branches are very visible at this time of year.

In addition to the odd flowering time, the fruit maturation is also unusual: woody capsules develop over many months into the next year, and then explosively expel two shiny seeds at the same time with the new blooming. The genus name Hamamelis is actually a reference to this, meaning “at the same time” (flowering) and “fruit”.

It is said that the seeds can be expelled at up to 6-10 m distance! This method of seed dispersal reflects another, rarely employed common name: snapping hazelnut. Even more, the seeds spin during their ‘flight’!

This dispersal of seeds is similar for all Hamamelis species (4 of them), and the phenomenon has received a lot of attention. Scientists believe that it could inspire/improve the design of mechanisms for jumping robots. Watch and read the explanations of this cool video recorded by a team from Duke University: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dv0ltUBe_UE

While approaching a group of witch-hazels to smell the flowers last week, I noticed some capsules slightly opened and just showing the seeds.

I collected a few, how to abstain?! I never had the chance before. At home, I placed them in a paper bag, and then popping sounds were heard over the next few days. You can just relax and wait for the seeds to ‘liberate’ themselves in the bag. How nice, compared to cleaning Viburnum seeds!

Hamamelis virginiana leaves are similar in shape to those of European Corylus, the hazelnut, and this combined with the fact that Early European settles observed that Indigenous People used its forked branches to find underground water sources (dowsing), lead to the common name of witch-hazel. It seems that the early name was actually Wicke Hazel (meaning pliant in Old English), and only later it became witch-hazel, although it has nothing to do with the witches :)

American witch-hazel has had long medicinal usage among the Indigenous People, with the bark and leaves being used for insect bites, minor burns, skin irritation, colds and fevers; the astringent extract of witch-hazel is still present on the drugstores shelves.

 A nice small tree with a vase shape, suitable for part-shaded to sun locations (better flowering), and quite adaptable to substrates, with the exception of those too dry. Besides the late fall flowering, the foliage will also take a nice golden hue in the fall. It is less cultivated than the more colorful Asian Hamamelis species/hybrids available on the market, but I think we should give it more attention. After all, how many species do we have in our cold climate to flower in October?!

Propagation by seeds
The seeds require alternate cycles of warm followed by cold for germination. Considering they have just been harvested, if we sow in outdoor pots in late fall/winter, it means they will germinate in the second year after sowing. Or we can try cycles of moist stratification in plastic bags, or – even better, sow the seeds in late spring/summer and let it all happen naturally!

 

The seeds announcement of today come in pairs.
Two species for dry, sunny areas:
Oenothera macrocarpa (Missouri evening primrose) and Astragalus missouriensis (Missouri milkvetch).
A pair for moist locations:
Nabalus racemosus and Smilax tamnoides (Bristly greenbriar).

Smilax tamnoides seeds

I’ll take this occasion to present Nabalus racemosus (aka Prenanthes racemosa, Rattlesnake root) which is rarely cultivated in the gardens, or maybe not at all.

All others are shortly described in the Shop and some may be discussed at a later time. On the account of Friday’s seeds we’ll have only a picture with the handsome seeds of Smilax tamnoides.

Nabalus racemosus plant portrait

I fell in love with the Rattlesnake root after seeing in flower one year in early fall in Bruce peninsula. From this point of view, Rattlesnake root is a good common name!

The fuzzy buds and pink flowers somehow are very attractive. One year, many monarchs were literally ‘hanging’ on the flowering stems in a group of plants, and so I became even more interested in growing it.

The common name Rattlesnake root suggests that it was used as a remedy for snakebites by the Indigenous People, and other common maladies like fever, headaches and dysentery.

I managed to grow a couple of plants just from a few seeds. It is not difficult to germinate, it only requires a long period of cold/moist stratification, ie. sow in late fall outdoors.

Nabalus racemosus (Fam. Asteraceae) is a moisture loving, tall species. Depending on how moist the place is, it can reach over 1.60 m on moist substrates, or remain around 80 cm on dryish soils.
In the wild, it can be found growing around stream banks, temporarily wet shorelines, and moist woodland edges.

Nabalus racemosus, Rattlesnake root, flowering in the garden

In the garden will share the location with Lobelia siphilitica, Iris versicolor, Lobelia cardinalis, Eupatorium perfoliatum, Castilleja coccinea and other similar companions.

The sturdy flowering stem grows from a rosette of large, glaucous leaves, tightly packed first with clusters of hairy buds, which open to pink flowers with the outer phyllaries covered in dense hairs.

The blooming time is August-September, and the flowers are visited by many late summer pollinators: butterflies, bumblebees and everyone else that would enjoy a sip of nectar.

Overall, Rattlesnake root is not a plant for the front of the border, or for those in need of very tidy garden beds. If you are wild at heart though and have a slightly moist garden area/where the water collects seasonally, go for it, you won’t regret it.

What’s next? Hamamelis virginiana, Viburnum rafinesquianum, Triosteum aurantiacum, a couple of Polemoniums…

We arrived at the last offering of moist packed seeds of the season: Eastern skunk cabbage seeds, Symplocarpus foetidus.

The muddy affair of extracting the skunk cabbage seeds from the fruits.

They have been missing from the Seeds list in the last couple of years, so despite the not-so-pleasant process of cleaning/processing of these seeds, a couple of fruits have been collected. They blend in very well with the woodland floor and most times are difficult to spot.

For those who want to do it themselves, after various trials, the best method to extract the seeds from the fruits is to have them sitting in a Ziploc bag for a while until they soften naturally; mush the whole content very well afterwards, select the seeds from the ‘muddy affair’, and then rinse them well.

Sow right away, or pack them with a moist media for later sowing, but before the winter arrives.
The seeds will also start germinating in a Ziploc bag with wet media after cold stratification, but the roots do not develop as good as when they germinate in a pot (make it a tall one) or when sown directly in the ground.

More about Symplocarpus foetidus (skunk cabbage) here: An after Easter portrait.

And, this is not really the last call for all others moist-packed seeds in stock, but with the cold weather fast approaching we are getting close to it!
Trillium grandiflorum, Uvularia grandiflora, Podophyllum peltatum, Asarum canadense and few others are still available; for easy finding the moist packed seeds offerings are green-written in the Seeds List.

Other species to be announced next week.
(For those who like to plan for their orders, NA natives: Nabalus racemosus (Prenanthes), Oenothera macrocarpa, Smilax tamnoides and maybe Euthamia graminifolia).

More seeds! More seeds from me and friends; and there will be more as soon as they get cleaned and the website files prepared.

For now, we can enjoy again Amphicarpaea bracteata, Groundhog peanut. Due to the last year’s drought, there was a break on seeds. By chance, I discovered that they enjoy climbing up bamboo sticks. So, those who want to avoid having them scrambling up nearby plants, there is an easy trick to do: put a few sticks around where the plants grow. The flowering and seeds production (not the peanuts!) are always better on the aerial stems.

Also, after a break of a few years we can consider new for the Seed list: Ptelea trifoliata, the Hop tree and the Northern bayberry Myrica pensylvanica.

For those on the look for something drought resistant with bright, red/magenta flowers, Callirhoe digitata seeds are also awaiting in the SEEDs List.

 

There are a few seeds of Gentiana paradoxa hybrid to share this fall, so the time has come to talk about the marvelous group of so called fall Gentianas: Gentiana paradoxa, Gentiana septemfida and their hybrids.

On we go!

Gentiana paradoxa is an endemic species with limited distribution in the Western Caucasus region.
In some cases, pictures shown over the net as Gentiana paradoxa are in fact hybrids. This species cross-pollinates easily with Gentiana septemfida both in the wild and in the garden; and in fact, this is a good thing (https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:368636-1)

Records show that Gentiana paradoxa was named by Russian botanist Nikolai Michailovic Albov in 1894 from specimens collected on the calcareous slopes of Mt. Kherebet Mamdzyhkhara, Abkhazia at 1300 m altitude (various spellings, Mt. Mamdzyshkha).

The specific epithet “paradoxa” means is – “contrary to expectation, paradoxical, marvellous”. It is indeed a marvellous species, with upright stems up to 20-25 cm, linear or narrow lanceolate leaves arranged in whorls and single large, blue, fringed flowers at the top of the stems. A mature specimen is truly magnificent.

I was lucky to received wild collected seeds a few years ago, so the specimen shown here represents the true species. You can easily tell if a Gentiana paradoxa is pure species simply after the foliage, which in optimal conditions turns a beautiful yellow in late fall. Also, there are single flowers at the top of the stems, as opposed to clusters in G. septemfida.

Amazingly, it is not a difficult species in culture. Do not believe the wiki statement “However, it is not particularly easy to grow, requiring moist, well-drained, lime-free soil and a position in full sun.” As you can see, they didn’t do their homework well, like it often happens.

Gentiana septemfida

Gentiana septemfida

It is a more commonly cultivated species and also with a larger geographical distribution: from N. & E. Türkiye to N. Iran, overlapping with Gentiana paradoxa in the Transcaucasus region. It grows from the upper forest to the alpine zones. It was first described from the alpine region of eastern Caucasus. (https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:368901-1)

The flowering stems have a trailing habit with ovoid, ovoid-lanceolate or lanceolate leaves and blue flowers usually in crowded clusters at the top of the stems. There are rare forms mentioned having only one or 2-3 flowers (f. uniflora and f. pauciflora). There are other differences from G. paradoxa flower-wise, but there is no need to go into more botanical details.

Gentiana paradoxa x septemfida hybrids

These two beautiful species easily hybridize in the wild when growing in the same area and also in the garden. The seedlings will display intermediate characters in various degrees, as well as the foliage, flowers and flowering time! By looking at my hybrid clump (a bunch of seedlings were planted together), they tend to take mainly after Gentiana septemfida, flowers and habit wise, having trailing flowering stems.

However, flowering time wise they take more after Gentiana paradoxa, all starting to flower in the first part of August and lasting into September. A Gentiana septemfida, which I also have in the garden, flowers much earlier, in mid-July.

The nr. of flowers/cluster vary, some with up to 8-10 flowers! Something similar goes around under the name of G. paradoxa hybrid ‘Blue Herald’. With Gentiana paradoxa raised from wild collected seeds growing nearby, the possibilities of even more beautiful hybrids are endless. They are going to be the result of a double cross with Gentiana paradoxa!

There is just one problem: the results of pollination were quite poor, both in true Gentiana paradoxa and the hybrids, signaling a limited self-pollination or maybe a lack of enough pollinators. Careful selecting is necessary in order to separate the good seeds.

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid seeds selection. A very small number of good seeds were formed, considering the large number of flowers

Growing these species and their hybrids from seeds

Gentiana paradoxa hybrid seedlings – picture just taken; they were transferred in a bigger pot as a bunch in late summer. Next spring, a delicate division of the seedlings will be done in individual pots.

These beautiful late summer/early fall flowering gentian species and their hybrids are very easy to grow from seeds and they are also quite adaptable as garden plants.

Why doesn’t this phenomenon happen more often?! They deserve a medal of merit especially for enduring well our hot & humid summers!

The seeds germinate in the spring after cold-moist stratification. I usually sow in late fall and leave the pots outdoors over the winter (with some protection, boxes under the snow, cold frame…).  In the first season, the seedlings don’t grow a lot, but then they will make a leap forward.
GA3 treatment is also an option if you want to start them in early spring indoors (beware the elongation of the seedlings though).

The few seeds of last year were sown, and with more plants around, hopefully the pollination and harvest of good seeds may increase. Plus, the more marvelous gentiana plants in the garden, the better!

On we go!
Gentiana paradoxa hybrids
Back in stock
Parnassia glauca
Delphinium exaltatum

The SEEDs LIST

Happy Thanksgiving to all Canadian customers!

The printer went out of order as of yesterday afternoon unfortunately; just when you need it most…
So, for a limited time the seeds packets will arrive at destinations with hand written labels. I think it is better to go on like this than to delay the shipping of orders at this time of the year. Thank you for your understanding!

The latest seeds collected:

Maianthemum racemosum, False Solomon’s seal – probably the last offering of the season from the moist-packed seeds category.
Other species from the wild side – Desmodium nudiflorum, Naked flowered tick-trefoil and the Running strawberry- bush, Euonymus obovatus.

Thanks to a very generous donor, there are also more species peonies seeds in stock! Beside the regular offerings (usually low in stock) there is also  a new, lovely white form of Paeonia anomala ssp. veitchii.
For most peonies that first need a warm/moist stratification period, it is a bit late for regular sowing in our climate. For those new to growing peonies from seeds I’ve updated a bit this former article:
Growing peonies from seeds.

 The Seed List

Enjoy the fall flowers & colors and get inspired!

Arisaema amurense-dark form seeds are in stock. What other better occasion to talk a bit about it? Truth is, I had this post half prepared since last year, so it came in handy.

Arisaema amurense is a cold hardy species with a large geographically distribution on the East coast of Asia: China North-Central, China Southeast, Inner Mongolia, Khabarovsk, Korea, Manchuria, Primorye and Sakhalin. (https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:85565-1)

Just like our native Jack in the pulpit, it comes in a wide range of forms regarding the height, spathe color and leaf size.
Mature, flowering plants have leaves with 5 folioles and usually the flowers are green striped with white; seeds of this form were offered a few years ago.

The inside of the flowers can also be brownish green or purple green with white stripes. Usually they are held on short stalks below or among the foliage.

The mother-plant of this form was grown from ORG&HP seedex, and the seeds were donated under the name of A. triphyllum ssp. quinatum (which anyway is tender and can’t be grown in our zone 5-6 climate). Most probably that it still goes in various garden circles under the wrong name.

The seedlings first develop a leaf with only 3 folioles, sometimes even the 2 years old plants. A flowering size mature plant has the typical 5-foliolate leaf, which you can see in the picture below. It is quite different than A. triphyllum ssp. quinatum: the folioles are broadly ovate in shape and can be slightly serrated on the margins.

Arisaema amurense leaf. In our climate, Arisaema amurense is the first Arisaema species to emerge from the ground, even earlier than our native Jack in the pulpit. This is a very cold hardy species, so if you are looking to expand your Arisaema garden ‘repertoire’ do not be afraid to give it a try.

The fruits on my plant develop an orange color at maturity, as opposed with A. triphyllum which turns deep, shiny red but maybe it cannot be generalized. I have a plate showing the differences in fruit color: Arisaema triphyllum, Arisaema amurense and Arisaema flavum (another hardy species, easy to grow from seeds). The seeds are similar, size and shape wise.

Arisaema amurense is very easy to grow from seeds. The seeds germinate at room temperature, so it can be started indoors in early spring or outdoors in late spring.
10-15 seeds are quite perfect for sowing a 3-4 inch pot in which to leave the seedlings grow for at least 2 years before planting the tubers in the ground. Arisaema seedlings do not need pricking out, reason why always sow the seeds in a slightly larger pot in which to have room to grow for 2-3 years (or transfer the little tubers when dormant in a new pot).

As garden companions use various species that also enjoy a part-shaded location, in a rich garden soil: Saruma henryi, Hydrastis canadensis, Aristolochia, Glaucidium palmatum, Epimedium, Helleborus, Podophyllum, Hepatica, Brunnera….to mention just a few.

It might start forming a colony if it likes the place but sharing Arisaema tubers with other Arisaema enthusiasts is always fun to do!

It seems that ‘explorers’ of the Seed List  are already finding some of the species I had the intention to announce on Friday. For this reason, a ‘back in stock’ post today, before they get out of stock ;) Unfortunately, the inventory is always short for some species.

North American native species back in stock:
 Dodecatheon hendersonii
Gillenia trifoliata
Ipomopsis aggregata
Monardella odoratissima
Spigelia marilandica

Species from various corners of the world:
Iris tectorum ‘Album’
Gentiana dahurica
Swertia perennis
Ziziphora clinopodioides

!Wait until Friday if you are also interested in Arisaema amurense – dark form!

Fingers crossed for a long, nice fall for various species to be able to mature their seeds: Amphicarpaea bracteata, Delphinium exaltatum, Parnassia glauca, Ipomopsis rubra, Iris domestica…plus few other ‘good things’ still in flower like: Allium pseudojaponicum and  Gentiana paradoxa hybrid.

Next week we will also know more about Maianthemum racemosum, Symplocarpus foetidus and Disporum uniflorum – probably the last moist packed seeds offerings for the season. Meanwhile, there are still various species left in stock from this category, but do not wait for too long.

I should have had Houstonia canadensis seeds announced ‘officially’ together with Lobelia kalmii; only that it takes more time to process some fruits to see how many seeds will be available.
In the Friday’s Seeds topic idea, we also have a picture with Houstonia fruits and seeds. The fruits are small, hard, dehiscent capsules which contain tiny, black seeds.

Similar in look when in flower to the previously offered H. longifolia, in Houstonia canadensis the basal, rosette leaves are usually pubescent above and with ciliate margins (Flora of Michigan); in fact the species is reported as being variable in the shape of the leaves and in the amount of pubescence. In H. longifolia the leaves are glabrous. If not for taking the close up picture when attracted by the beautiful foliage changing color, it would have been impossible to identify it. It is always good to take the time for close-up pictures.

You can grow the Canada Summer bluet together with few of its wild companions, like: Lobelia kalmii, Campanula rotundifolia, Solidago simplex var. ontarioense, Primula mistassinica, Prunus pumila and Clinopodium arkansanum.

Even if some of these species grow in alvars, they adapt well to garden growing conditions, on any limestone/calcareous substrate. So far, I would say that only an acidic substrate will pose a problem when growing these species. I grow them all, in various garden locations and instead of Canada Summer Bluet I have H. longifolia.

They all enjoy a full to part-sun, moist towards dry location, which is moist at least seasonally.
You can use the edge of a border/rockery that gets more moisture after snowmelt, when it rains heavily, or where the water gathers naturally due to the ground gradient.

And, because many of these species have fine seeds which require superficial sowing, a picture with Primula mistassinica seedlings with explanations.

Primula mistassinica seedlings, a couple of Castilleja miniata seedlings can be seen to the right

The seeds were sown on top of the substrate in late fall (2022) in a larger pot (together with few other species with fine seeds that require superficial sowing) and covered with very fine gravel to prevent washing out. The pot has stayed outdoors over the winter; in early spring a thick layer of ice had formed on top of it and during melting moved around some of the seeds (lesson learned – remove part of the snow in late winter/early spring).

Lobelia kalmii, Campanula rotundifolia which are now planted in the garden were obtained in the same way. You can use the same method and sow a few similar species with fine seeds together in a larger container and then gradually transplant the seedlings when they grow up. Or, keep the sowing container as it is!

You can find all these species in the SEEDs List.

Moist seeds speaking, Caulophyllum thalictroides inventory has been replenished. I know it seems there is a lot of time left until the temperatures will start to plunge, but there are other things to take into consideration, like some seeds starting to germinate (Asarum seeds emerge their radicles at some point in November) or being sold out (Medeola virginiana, Trillium flexipes).

Dry seeds speaking, the inventory has been replenished for:
Campanula rotundifolia (still flowering, on-going collection)
Drosera linearis
Pinguicula vulgaris and
Primula mistassinica

For those who like to plan their orders, next to follow next week from the native species side: Houstonia canadensis, Clinopodum arkansanum, Gillenia trifoliata and maybe Delphinium exaltatum. Stay tuned…

Lobelia kalmii, Kalm’s Lobelia

And a short plant portrait for a new offering – Lobelia kalmii, Kalm’s Lobelia

A bit similar in look to the previously offered Lobelia spicata, Lobelia kalmii is a small size, floriferous and delicate looking plant with blue/lavender flowers that can be found in moist places such as sandy, gravely meadows, fens, tamarack (larix) swamps. It is also common growing in rock crevices and among boulders on the rocky shores of Lake Huron.

Looks like a perfect species to incorporate in the moist side of a rockery, or any other slightly moist garden location (edge of a border, ponds, waterfalls….). It may be delicate looking, just like Campanula rotundifolia, but perfectly cold hardy.

It is easy to grow from seeds and flowering in the second year after sowing in my garden. I just kept the seedlings with too much shade and they got elongated, but otherwise it is an easy going species (beware acidic substrates though).

The species and common names honor Pehr (Peter) Kalm, a Swedish-Finnish botanist, explorer and naturalist, student of Carl Linnaeus, who undertook the exploration of Northern N. American regions around 1748. Linnaeus will cite Kalm for about 90 species, many of them new, also naming the genus Kalmia in his honor.

At the end of the season, it is difficult to differentiate L. kalmii from L. spicata when they are found growing in the same locations. I suspect that last year, at least part of the seeds offered as L. spicata were from L. kalmii, so those who purchased seeds please get in touch to learn how to differentiate them after flowering: Contact form

For plant collectors, the Podophyllum name sparks instantly the ‘rare plants’ lust. Like with the Arisaema species, unfortunately the North American continent wasn’t left with much: only one Podophyllum species, the Mayapple, Podophyllum peltatum. It is a wonderful wildflower with personality which will slowly form a colony in suitable conditions in the forests/ or woodland garden.

Podophyllum peltatum erupting from the ground in early spring

The genus name comes from the Greek ‘anapodophyllum’ meaning a leaf like the foot (podos) of a duck (anas) and peltatum – refers to the specific attachment of the leaf stalk near the center of the leaf blade.

Mayapples can be found in deciduous forests, both in bottomlands and on drier sites. Large colonies usually develop in places with more moisture. Although they can grow in dry places, underneath the trees, in very dry years, they can go dormant in early fall. Some of its companion plants are: Sanguinaria canadensis, Caulophyllum thalictroides, Trillium grandiflorum, Uvularia grandiflora….

Mayapples emerge in early spring with a couple of tightly closed leaves, which expand umbrella-like afterwards and cover one solitary, white, waxy flower somewhere in May; if pollinaton was successful,  ‘green apples’ will form. Unfortunately, the frequency of successful pollination is not high in Mayapple flowers, even if various pollinators visit the flowers.

Therefore, the fruit set rates are often low for individual colonies of plants, and even more, I have noticed that in years with drought most fruits are aborted. The ripe fruits are the only part of the plant that’s not toxic, and are called “hog apples” or “wild lemons”. They become yellow and fragrant when fully ripe, usually in mid to late August (no idea why the ‘mayapple’ name). They are enjoyed by a variety of small animals, which are also the principal seed dispersers (the Eastern box turtle, gray squirrels, opossum, raccoons…).
So yes, Mayapple’s ripe fruits are edible, and you can even find recipes for jellies.

Medicinal importance

Even if the whole plant, except mature fruits, contains toxic substances, the Mayapple has also been a staple medicinal plant in the repertoire of the Indigenous Peoples, being used as: boiled roots (laxative), juice of the fresh rhizome (to improve hearing), powdered root (skin ulcers and sores, purgative), to mention just the well-known uses.
At some point, the Mayapple resin (extracted from the rhizome) was considered one the most powerful laxatives available, and it was even sold commercially (Carter’s Little Liver Pills in early 1900s), but because of the toxicity, this use has been discontinued.

More recently, pharmaceutical research proved that certain chemical constituents of the Podophyllum species can be used as anticancer agents. The substance responsible is called podophyllin and it is a resin contained in the rhizome (see the use of powder root to treat skin ulcers). This resin is composed of several toxic glycosides, the most active being podophyllotoxin. Derivatives of the podophyllotoxin (etoposide and teniposide) were formulated into anticancer drugs used in chemotherapy to inhibit the growth of tumors in various types of cancer.

 Propagation

Actually, all Podophyllum species are very easy to cultivate – all you need is shade…and seeds or rhizomes cuttings. You can read a detailed account for growing Mayapple from seeds here:  Growing Podophyllum from seeds.
It is not difficult if you follow the directions. Mayapple seeds need to be sown fresh, if not moist packed, in order to obtain good germination. Be aware of companies selling dry kept seeds!!!

Podophyllum peltatum first year seedlings with cotyledon leaves in 2018; these are grown up by now and flowering!

Patience is required like with all other rhizomatous species, which are slow to develop in the first years. From seeds they will flower in 5-6 years.

As a side note, the seeds are enclosed in a sticky, mucilaginous mass, and are the most awful seeds to clean out! Ask everyone who has ever done it!

In dry years, the few formed fruits are aborted and offered seeds are quite rare, or available in tiny amounts. So, take advantage of this wet season when more fruits have been produced if you want to grow a few umbrellas in your woodland garden.

 

The Seeds Shop will open for orders next Monday, Aug. 28th – watch for the announcement and please do not order before!

 

 

A short plant portrait for Delphinium exaltatum today. Besides getting familiar with this Eastern North American larkspur, I want to emphasize the fact that for species starting to flower late in July or August, like all fall Gentian for example, seeds MAY become available only in very late fall October or even November.

The early fall Seeds List is taking shape and it may ready at the end of next week, fingers crossed; if not, by 1st of September. It will be announced.

Delphinium exaltatum, Tall larkspur

Delphinium exaltatum, shown here cultivated in the garden, is a native species with a rather limited distribution in a few Eastern US states. My plant was grown from seeds that were offered a few years ago in the shop, so other people should also have it in their gardens.

 It goes by the common name of Tall larkspur and the epithet ‘exaltatum’ also alludes to its height.
The leaves are palmate-lobed with narrow lobes, and the flowering stems can reach 1.6+ m, also depending on the growing conditions.

The lavender-blue flowers open gradually on loose, branched inflorescences in late summer, reason why it has a very long blooming period. They become the center of attention for various pollinators; particularly butterflies and the hummingbirds are in love with it.

It is said to dislike hot and humid conditions. For this reason in regions with hot summers (like SW Ontario) it does better in a part-shaded location with extra moisture. Otherwise a full sun location can be used. It may need staking, although I prefer to let mine to sway in the breeze.

Among other noticeable plants flowering in late summer, besides all the Echinacea, Rudbeckia and Eupatoriums, are various Gentians: Gentiana septemfida towards the end of flowering, Gentiana paradoxa just starting, Iris dichotoma,  Platycodon, Lomelosia olgae, Ziziphora clinopodioides…

Luetkea pectinata, Partridgefoot, is an endemic plant of Western North America, in alpine and subalpine areas, extending from Alaska, Yukon, British Columbia, and east into Northwest Territories, Alberta, Idaho, and Montana, as well as South into Washington, Oregon and California. Apparently it is a common plant in BC, in alpine and subalpine zones, but not everyone has the chance to reach these places so I thought a plant portrait would be useful.

The partridge foot, is a ground hugging, evergreen sub-shrub forming extensive mats along rocky slopes, in meadows of moist open coniferous forest at subalpine and alpine level, where the snow cover usually start melting late toward early summer.
It is stoloniferous, reason why in favorable locations it can cover large areas, to an extent hard to imagine, until one sees it. You will also notice in pictures that with the help of stolons, it can easily populate the surface of large boulders, if it finds a thin layer of substrate to grow on, or it will grow in the boulders crevices.
It is also found growing in heathlands associations with Phyllodoce empetrifolia and Cassiope mertensiana, which is a good hint about the type of substrate it requires (pictures taken in Revelstoke area and Glacier National Park).

Seeds will be offered (in limited quantity) in the fall Seeds List, so take hints for cultivation from this information. We always need to try to emulate the natural growing conditions, especially for species growing at high elevations. It would make for an excellent crevice plant in a moist rockery.

The species was first collected in Sitka, Alaska and the genus Luetkea, with its only species L. pectinata, commemorates the early 1800s German-Russian military man and Arctic explorer with the name of Friedrich Benjamin Graff von Lutke (or Fydor Petrovich Litke), who charted the Alaskan coast in 1827.

Luetkea pectinata, Partridge foot, in flower in late July, Revelstoke area, BC

The common name Partridge foot, alludes to the fan-shaped leaves which are crowded in tick tufts, and upon a superficial look, one can think it resembles at a Saxifraga. However, the genus belongs to the rose family (Rosaceae, more specifically related with Spiraea). Some sources also call it Alaska Spiraea. Also, the specific epithet ‘pectinata’ alludes to the foliage, meaning ‘scalloped’ in Latin.

The flowers are white-creamy on dense, elongated clusters about 10 cm high, and later capsule-like, aggregate of follicles develop, which take a red color close to maturation; same it happens with the foliage, especially in exposed situations. The late summer/fall red coloration during fruiting enhances its appeal.

The dry follicles will open in late summer to release the fine, linear seeds about 3 mm long.
By the aspect of growing mats, it seems that its main propagation in the wild is happening by stolons.

Propagation: cuttings/detaching rosettes would be the easiest way to go, but we only have the option of growing it from seeds. According with various sources, the seeds will germinate at room temperature, without any need of cold stratification, which is good news. The seeds being very fine, we have to sow superficial and top up the pot with fine gravel or other such substrate to prevent the seeds desiccation. Use a very porous mix by adding perlite to a regular sowing mix, and keep evenly moist.

Another method I mentioned often for fine, small seeds is to enclose the pot in a plastic bag until the germination starts, then use the bag as a sort of coverall until the seedlings gain strength.
And of course, we can use the dome trays that many people found very handy. I never use heating mats for seeds germination, although they are often mentioned in various protocols, so I think they are not really necessary.

Luetkea pectinata seeds and fruits aspect; 1 mm grid

You can read detailed propagation protocols for it and other related species (see also Vaccinium membranaceum ;) here: https://www.fs.usda.gov/t-d/pubs/htmlpubs/htm06232815/page19.htm

The reason this species is rarely seen in cultivation, at least in Canada, is probably due to the difficulty of establishing the seedlings. Probably SW Ontario location is too dry to grow it, but those in up-north regions, BC and Eastern provinces, should have better chances to cultivate this beautiful native wildflower.
We won’t know until we give it a try!

As previously announced, the Seeds Shop is currently closed for orders until further notice – Please respect this announcement posted all over the website!

The off-selling period allows me to collect, clean and process the seeds, write the material to be uploaded on the website, update/delete previous offerings, research seeds germination requirements, not to mention attending to all the other technicalities related to the website.
In order to produce a new Fall Seeds List, some time off is necessary.

 

Thank you for your understanding!

Latest seeds collected: Uvularia grandiflora, Lonicera dioica, Lonicera hirsuta and Clintonia borealis.

Start your wish list and be ready for the late summer Shop re-opening!
Various species should have priority for late summer sowing, requiring a slightly warm cycle before the cold one (winter) for best germination.
From this category, just collected and in the process of cleaning/sorting out:

Hydrastis canadensis
Paeonia officinalis (+ few other peonies will be ready soon)

Wild collections:

Erythronium grandiflorum
Streptopus amplexifolius – dark fruit form

I have had good results by sowing previously collected Eryhtronium grandiflorum seeds directly in the ground, and I recommend this method now, especially for those not very experienced in growing bulbous species from seeds, like myself :)

What else? Incarvillea delavayi, Gladiolus tenuis and Salvia austriaca from the garden; Anemone (Pulsatilla) occidentalis, Erigeron peregrinus and Leptarrhena pyrolifolia (Leatherleaf saxifrage) – wild, to mention just a few.
Until next…

The seeds collecting is in high drive nowadays. For some species, all fruits mature and are collected at the same time, for others it is an on-going process.

BotanyCa seeds, clockwise: Dianthus carthusianorum, Centaurea jankae, Penstemon saxosorum, Aristolochia steupii, Paeonia veitchii, Actaea x ludovici (only for show) and Trillium grandiflorum (capsules just about to release the seeds, which will be moist packed right away)

When collecting fruits & seeds of the dry type (capsules, achenes…) either for yourself or for trading with friends and various seeds exchanges, always use paper holders, envelopes, any other type of paper-made envelopes and my favorites: coffee filters!
They are absorbent and you can easily write on them. Fold them neatly to form a nice envelope when collecting and/or leave them open later for the fruits/seeds to dry out. I also use them for temporarily holding fleshy fruits until the seeds get cleaned out.

Even the most dry-looking fruits will still hold moisture for a while, so even when collecting in paper envelopes in the garden/wild, always transfer and spread them on larger surfaces for a few weeks, before sorting out the seeds and placing them in the holding envelopes (paper or glassine).

Glassine envelopes hold moisture and are not good for keeping freshly collected fruits/seeds!

So, buy yourself a large batch of coffee filters, if you don’t already have them, and start collecting seeds!