Before the announcement for the Shop re-opening, I have good reason to ‘recycle’ and update a post about the lovely Cornus canadensis  (bunchberry, dwarf cornel) from a few years ago.
Reason is that fruits have just been collected and, together with few other species, they await the seeds extraction.
So, keep in mind that a new group of species will be posted in the inventory later next week. Among them: Aralia hispida, Lobelia spicata, Drosera intermedia and few others.
By a good chance, seeds of another species that wasn’t offered in quite a few years: Coptis trifolia, the goldthread were also collected.

Usually the name Cornus makes us think of trees and shrubs. But the bunchberry is a lovely perennial dogwood, which grows only to 15-20 cm tall, with leaves arranged in whorls of 4 or 6. The flowers, typical for a Cornus, are easy recognizable after the 4 large, white petal-like bracts. The fruit is an attractive, red, globe-shaped drupe, persistent, and also edible; especially birds are very fond on consuming the fruits during the fall migration.

Cornus canadensis flowers

Good as a groundcover in shaded, moist locations, underneath small trees or shrubs; lovely to grow underneath Rhododendrons for example. I have also seen it growing on old tree stumps on top of moss, which would be great to try to ‘reproduce’ if possible (Coptis trifolia and Medeola virginiana can be grown the same way). It also needs a slightly acidic substrate and a cool location.  Usually it can be found in the company of Linnaea borealis, Trientalis borealis, Coptis trifolia, Maianthemum canadense and few others.

Cornus canadensis

 Propagation from seeds is slow and the best protocol I found suggests: a period of warm/moist stratification for 45 days; followed by cold-moist stratification for 140 days (ie. 4-5 months or two winters). I think we can try to replace 1 winter by doing the following:
warm/moist stratification 1 month + GA3 treatment + cold/moist stratification (2-3 months = 1 winter).

 Among its uses by the Indigenous People I found the mention of fruits consumption as a cure for insanity ;) I will chew some while extracting the seeds; who knows, I might get cured of the insanity of trying to maintain this seeds business during a time of increasing world-wide practices of restricting gardeners access to seeds, or better said, rules favoring the large, multinational companies in detriment of small scale operations. Sounds familiar?

Until tomorrow…

 

*I cannot miss the chance to post this link where the unique pollination mechanism found in Cornus canadensis is described:

THE EXPLOSIVE POLLINATION MECHANISM IN CORNUS CANADENSIS L. : https://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/ben/ben194.html

 

 

The few peonies from my garden have opened their fruits. Given the capricious spring and following drought it is no surprise the harvest is small from a few species like Paeonia japonica. They start to flower a bit too early in our climate.

On the other hand, Paeonia officinalis, which flowered later in the spring during a nice weather window, has exceeded the expectations. Therefore, you can acquire Paeonia officinalis seeds at a lower price this season :) However, we have to admit that Paeonia mascula fruits are more beautiful because of the red appendages (unfertilized ovules).

Peonies are wonderful garden plants, long lived, tough and reliable. Put them on your wish list, if interested; they are best sowed in late summer. 

Moist packed ‘candies’ recently collected: Uvularia grandiflora (almost missed them this year) and to my surprise the Mayapple, Podophyllum peltatum, also produced some fruits (usually in very dry years they get aborted early on). Maybe Medeola seeds will also be ready by the end of the month; otherwise the next batch of species that require moist packing are usually collected only in September (Maianthemum species).
In the garden, only Trillium flexipes has set and developed fruits; all other Trillium have been displeased with the drought.

The Seeds List is starting to take shape, although there will be more changes coming September and October. The date for the Shop re-opening: tentatively August 28th, with an emphasis on Paeonia, Lilium and the Moist packed seeds category, plus other species that require summer sowing.

 

For those in need of ideas for companion plants, I will show a few other native species growing together with Zigadenus elegans ssp. glaucus in my garden bed. You can attempt to grow them from seeds or source the plants from a specialized plant nursery.

Garden bed containing various native species that enjoy relatively moist situations – view from last year. Due to the drought, some species (especially L. cardinalis seem affected) are not flowering so abundant this year

The garden bed has a natural grading which allows the water to sit at the edging area when it rains. The substrate at depth is clay and in years with normal rainfalls, it remains a rather moist area with little additional watering; sun to part-shade.
Most of the following species will actually adapt to various moisture levels; some will remain shorter in height and flower less if it gets too dry, like it has happened this year, but they will get by.

Eupatorium perfoliatum (Boneset) with its white, fragrant inflorescences of small white flowers is attracting various pollinators,

Great Golden Digger Wasp on Eupatorium perfoliatum

especially solitary wasps that otherwise are not usually seen in the garden.
Lobelia siphilitica (Great blue Lobelia) and *Lobelia cardinalis.

*Geum rivale (Nodding avens), Iris versicolor and Iris hookeri
*Clinopodium arkansanum (Limestone calamint) is also crawling somewhere toward the edge; you know it is here every time a wonderful minty whiff comes into air. Although an alvars dweller, Clinopodium adapts very well to garden cultivation.

*Viola nephrophylla grows with abandon at the edge (self -sown seedlings appear all the time) and there are even few skunk cabbage seedlings! in need of rescuing this coming fall.
And I almost forgot to mention: *Houstonia caerulea, *Primula mistassinica and *Sisyrinchium mucronatum. Plus, *Parnassia glauca (Marsh grass-of-Parnassus) which makes for an excellent late summer bloomer.

Erythranthe guttata and Iris versicolor

One year *Erythranthe guttata, the Monkey flower, bloomed wonderfully at the edge, but it didn’t manage to reseed successfully (on the account on work done to enlarge the bed).
Talking grasses: *Carex grayi and Deschampsia caespitosa.

* – It means the plant was grown from seeds; more pictures and descriptions for each on the shop pages (seeds are not available for all species every year). We must be patient, some of these species mature their seeds in late September/October.

You can create micro-habitats in your garden by using the existent conditions and planting species which naturally grow in a similar habitat. I like this simplified definition of a habitat:
“A habitat is a place where an organism makes its home”.

Maybe you have a similar place, a woodland bed, or a sun baked area? There are species suitable for all situations – offer them a home!

Various berries and capsules have been collected lately: Podophyllum hexandrum (light pink flower), Clintonia borealis, Hydrastis canadensis; Aristolochia (iberica and also steupii!), Roscoea scillifolia fo. atropurpurea, Trientalis borealis and Trillium grandiflorum (few, smaller fruits due to the drought).

I mostly wanted to write about Zigadenus elegans ssp. glaucus (Mountain death camas), a beautiful NA native species (poisonous as well) that is flowering right now in the garden. Grown from seeds of course, where would I found to buy plants of Zigadenus? There may be few specialized nurseries offering it around the country, but certainly not nearby.

This is a species with a wide distribution in Canada and the US, with two subspecies that were initially recognized, which were then lumped together. The main differences are that Western populations have smaller plants and shorter inflorescences, while

Zigadenus elegans ssp. glaucus, young plant in cultivation

Eastern populations (ssp. glaucus) have taller plants with paniculate inflorescence and glaucous leaves and stems.

For many years I didn’t think about it, being familiar only with the plants growing in Bruce Peninsula, ON. A tall, slender plant with a few basal, bluish, grassy leaves and tall stems with large inflorescences (branched panicles) of peculiar white flowers with a thick greenish- yellow heart shaped glands. The flowers can take a reddish hue after pollination, and later capsules develop.
It likes a moist place, and the ‘wetter’ it is, the taller it gets. On not so wet soils, it just remains smaller in stature. In the picture to the right – a young plant, 4-5 years old. Older plants can reach 80+ cm in height and form much broader inflorescences.

After I got the chance one year to see specimens of Western populations in the mountains of SE BC, I understood why the common name is Mountain death camas, and also why some botanists have considered the two subspecies.
Both are beautiful in their own way, but different and I think a distinction should be made about the origins of plants and seeds.
Here’s a picture with a Zigadenus elegans specimen growing in a mountain rocky meadow in SE BC; it is not difficult to observe the differences.

Zigadenus elegans BC

In my garden, Zigadenus grows together with a few other native species, of the same ‘moist inclination’ (you can spot Lobelia siphilitica close by). About its companions we’ll talk later, after all the berries are cleaned and the seeds that need moist packing are placed in ‘safe’ storage.

 

As we enter the second part of July, the drought is still here, give or take a few ‘rain drops’. But life goes on, plants are flowering and fruits/seeds mature day by day.

A few species have been flowering since the beginning of the month and I want to particularly mention, the tall and gorgeously floriferous Delphinium fissum and its white counterpart Delphinium albiflorum. Not only they have a long flowering period, they are also great food sources for a variety of pollinators, especially the bumble bees are very fond on them (make a note for the fall seeds wish list ;)
Both species are rhizomatous Delphiniums and won’t flower too fast from seeds but they get better and better as the time goes by.

Angelica capitellata, a tall NA western native, also deserves a note because I think it makes for a great garden plant. Mainly absent from cultivation, I had the chance to obtain and offer seeds a few years ago, so here it is, first time to flower! It was very exciting to see the first ‘buttons’ showing up. Due to the tight round balls of white flowers has received common names like: Ranger’s button, Button parsley or Woolyhead parsnip. It grows well in average garden soil in full sun to part-shade. Hopefully a few more other people managed to grow it as well.

Aconitum kirinense

Other species from the  tall & beautiful category in July are Aconitum kirinense and Acanthus hungaricus. As I was placing the pictures in the gallery I realized these ‘tall & beautiful’ share another commonality: they were all grown from seeds!
Of course many other species are flowering or just beginning to flower: Scabiosa, Sidalcea, various Gallardia and Echinacea are providing a lot of colors at this time. I am just trying to point at species that are not usually found in the trade.  We’ll talk about few others next time.

Fruits & Seeds wise, it is a bit quiet now but Hydrastis canadensis fruits are getting ‘red & ready’ one by one, Hydrophyllum virginianum seeds are gradually maturing, as well as Primula japonica and Primula frondosa capsules. The first peony capsule of P. anomala var. veitchii just opened yesterday; more to follow shortly…

The Seeds shop is closed now for website maintenance, seeds inventory and most important seeds collections. Re-opening in late August, I hope. But no worry, you will be kept up to date on flowering, fruiting & seeds happenings.

The first fleshy fruits are here! Yes, Actaea rubra (wild) and Triosteum pinnatifidum (garden) were just collected. From the dry side: Viola pubescens var. scabriuscula and Viola labradorica (wild), Erinus alpinus and Aconitum moldavicum (garden), to mention just a few. Quite a few other species are under a ‘seeds-ready’ watch at this time.

Prolonged drought effects seen in SW Ontario

Sadly, the effect of drought is seen everywhere in SW Ontario; in some locations the mayapple (Podophyllum peltatum), Trillium grandiflorum and few other species going into an early dormancy and it is uncertain if there will be any seeds.
In the garden we can compensate somewhat by carefully watering especially the moisture loving species but even so, the seeds set is lower than in ‘normal’ years.

The hot/dry weather will continue throughout the summer and I would like to emphasize again that it is very important to keep your early sowings moist; otherwise the warm/moist stratification cycle will not count as such.
Besides keeping the trays in a shaded place and checking the moisture constantly, there is another solution; a friend reminded me about this way of keeping the summer sowings and so I will pass it forward to all others.

Nothing complicated: just place the pots inside a plastic box with a lid (still to be kept in a well shaded or in a cool place!). Do not close the lid tightly and check the pots regularly. Mine are in a cool garage right now.

Enjoy the summer and don’t forget to collect some seeds along the way; it is always good to have a reserve of seeds, plus there are seed exchanges in the fall and trades with friends. 

 

Various species recommended to be sown fresh like: Pulsatilla styriaca and its beautiful color variant, Helleborus caucasicus, Helleborus purpurascens, Helleborus x hybridus ‘Cherry Blossoms’, Jeffersonia dubia are in the inventory.

But, wait ‘a minute’! We are preparing a small ‘Canadense’ celebration with the very fresh seeds of Asarum canadense, Aquilegia and Stylophorum diphyllum. These fresh seeds cannot be packed in moist vermiculite right away and for this event will be sent, just like Hepatica seeds, in glassine envelopes.

The ‘Canadense’ celebration will take place from: Friday June 24th to July 2 (Sat.) with sale prices for:
Asarum canadense
Stylophorum diphyllum
Aquilegia canadensis – woodland and short form, plus the ‘Little Lanterns’
There is a very small harvest of Sanguinaria canadensis seeds this year, reason why this species will not be included in the sale.

Also, this year seeds are restocked and new species are being added to the SEEDS Shop as they become available so they can be easily combined in orders with species that require summer sowing.
Recently  seeds restocked/new added: Mitella diphylla, Thalictrum dioicum, Geum triflorum, Potentilla porphyrantha, Lewisia rediviva, Zigadenus fremontii… SEEDS LIST

The SEEDs Shop will be closed for orders starting July 3!
The re-opening will be announced.

Collecting and processing Hepatica acutiloba seeds is done!
Those interested can head to the SEED LIST to see what will be available and there are explanations for every offering on their page. As usual, there are more seeds when it was possible to collect from a larger population, and limited seeds when collected just from one plant. Either way, it is a lot of work involved, from trying to catch the seeds to selecting the good ones.

Wishing good success with the seeds for all  BotanyCa customers, I will repeat myself again:  Hepatica acutiloba seeds seem to germinate reliably in the first spring after sowing, and the seedlings are easier to manage & grow faster. Those of Hepatica americana may germinate entirely in the second year after sowing, and seedlings grow much slower.

For this reason, I advise those who have never tried to grow Hepatica from seeds to start with H. acutiloba. In the picture below there is the right example of what I’m trying to say: to the left – seedlings from ‘Purple Star’ and to the right – seedlings of H. americana, all 3 years old (some 4 years-old, considering 2 years for germination).
No matter what you choose, expect variation in seedlings (‘Purple Star’ seedlings came pretty good true to name). They would all enchant you with their flowers in a few years coming spring!

Recommended reading: Hepatica acutiloba 2020 and a checklist, Notes on Hepatica acutiloba, Growing Hepatica from seeds.

Most Hepatica americana seeds are also collected; just waiting for a couple of forms and as well H. nobilis var. pyrenaica seeds that are still maturing. They will be announced by the end of the week.

Testing the reading again. The first person to ask, is to receive a gift of  seeds: 1 pck. of H. acutiloba pastel shades, 1 pck. of H. acutiloba ‘Purple Star’ and 1 pck. H. acutiloba white/fragrant! Gifted!
Please see the Contact and provide the name AND address. There is no method of sending seeds without an address, or at least none that I’m aware of :)

While we bid adieu to Hepatica flowers, many other spring delights are awaiting for us in the forests and as well in our gardens.

One of the most important events for all woodlanders – the flowering of Trillium grandiflorum, is starting in SW Ontario! The cool, late spring makes it to coincide with Claytonia virginica flowering (spring beauty), which usually flowers earlier in the spring.

These are some of the most wonderful moments of our brief springtime, enjoy them while they last!

Less is more when it comes to writing during May: there are seedlings to be taken care of, planting beds to be rearranged and new ones to be built.

Today I will show THE easiest method to grow plants from seeds, i.e. plant them in the ground, in an appropriate location :)

Erythronium grandiflorum seedlings, 2022. The seeds were sown in early fall last year (2021). For sowing directly in the ground it is best to sow closely so you can keep an eye on the seedlings; replant them in other locations  if necessary after 3+ years.

And, the second easiest method: germinate/grow them in a pot for one season, then ‘plant’ the pot in the ground (it works great for species that need 3+ years to develop): 4 years old P. tenuifolia seedlings in the image waiting to be separated and replanted.

Paeonia tenuifolia young plants – notice the rim of the pot which was ‘planted’ in the ground in a sunny position, close to other perennials (still dormant). The plants will be separated and replanted.

Indeed, less can be more, sometimes….

A last look at few Corydalis, it’s been a wonderfully cool spring keeping them in flower longer together with a couple of their companions.

In the woods and in the garden Hepatica are flowering. There is a whole page dedicated to them: Hepatica – queens of the woodlands, and there is nothing else new I have to say. Every spring my admiration for them grows more anew!

To those celebrating this weekend – Happy Easter, with love, peace and happiness to all!

In a blink of an eye the spring will rush over us with its myriad of gardening tasks and enjoyments; Hepatica will also start blooming :-)  So, it is time for the 2022 indoor seedlings wrap up and awards presentation.

First prize in the following categories:

The unexpected: Androsace carnea
A whole tray with sowing pots was waiting in the garage in late December for the first snowfall before being taken outdoors. Luckily, I noticed the tiny green specks in the Androsace pot before doing so.

The cutest: Campanula alpina var. bucegiensis
I am partial toward this little bellflower from the Carpathian Mts.; maybe cuteness is also in the eye of the beholder.

The most repeated: Anthemis carpatica var. pyretriformis
I’ve tried growing this species at least four times. Easy to germinate and grow, hard to find a suitable location in the garden…I will persevere.

The most reliable: Aquilegia species
Aquilegia formosa, recently transplanted, receiving the prize for all other Aquilegia species sowed this year.

The desirable/2 years germination: Degenia velebitica
Degenia velebitica is an endemic species from Croatian mountains. The germination is problematic; please see the *note at the end of this post.

The desirable/fast germination: Phacelia sericea
After encountering the silky Phacelia flowering high in the Canadians Rockies, who wouldn’t want to grow it?

The heartbreaker: Iris dichotoma
I tried the Vesper Iris in various locations in the garden, and none were on its liking long term. Even so, it is worth the effort to grow it from seeds periodically.

Best in the annual category: Orlaya grandiflora
An easy win from only 2 annual species sowed; the white laceflower is a very handsome and pollinator friendly species.

Most aromatic: Ziziphora clinopodioides

Best growth in ‘new species’ class: Gypsophila patrinii

We thank you all for following the seeds & seedlings show here at BotanyCa and for your support. Looking forward to celebrate new seeds, good growing, the beauty of nature and of our gardens in the 2022 season!

*Note: Degenia velebitica ecology germination.
I sowed the seeds last year in late summer following the findings of the article that the seeds from wild plants germinate best at high temperatures (22-31C, ie. sowing in late summer/early fall).
It didn’t work out (there was 1 seedling) maybe because the provenience of the seeds was from a cultivated plant, already adapted to different environmental conditions (the epigenetic factor). In any case, even after cold/moist stratification the percentage of germination was very low, but happy to have even just a few seedlings.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/27189176_Germination_ecology_of_seeds_of_endemic_species_Degenia_velebitica_Degen_Hayek_Brassicaceae

I am doing a last few sowings using the HWT (hot water treatment). As explained and shown in previous postings, the HWT applied for Fabaceae species (and not only), causes fine fissures in the seed coats and allows for water imbibition, eliminating the need for the cold/moist stratification period.

Those unfamiliar with this method can follow the links to read more about it and to see more pictures:
Continuing the sowing: in hot water; Updates to the HWT; FAQ – hot water treatment

I am trying two new Astragalus species: Astragalus detritalis, debris milkvetch, a Colorodo native, with bright purple flowers and

Astragalus detritalis seeds aspect after a second HWT; noticed the swollen seeds which need to be sown; then repeat the HWT again

Astragalus glycyphyllos, licorice milkvetch. You need to repeat the treatment 2-3+ times, especially for Astragalus species, but otherwise all is easy and some seeds may even start to germinate in the water.

And I’ll persevere, as long as I have seeds, with Oxytropis halleri. One plant flowered from my last attempt, but unfortunately vanished. It may be that our hot, humid summers are not to its liking, but it is worth trying it again. Oxytropis species are really hard to maintain in garden cultivation.

If you didn’t use the hot water method yet, give it a try. It is one of the easiest germination treatments to apply; for sure it beats sanding your fingers together with the seeds ;)

We cannot really generalize, but the majority species from Fabaceae family are easy germinators. The HWT is working well for: Astragalus, Baptisia, Hedysarum, Lupinus,

Oxytropis halleri

Oxytropis, Thermopsis. Considering how Lathyrus vernus self-sown seeds germinate in the garden, it would probably benefit as well. However, I didn’t manage to ‘break’ the Senna seeds with the HWT.
Species that would germinate at warm even without the HWT can also benefit from it to speed up the germination (Amphicarpaea).

First, an announcement about changes in the Shipping rates and destinations: Shipping and Delivery
The local shipping and handling rates have been in needed of revising since a couple of years ago. The new break-out on different rates depending on the order size aims to better reflect the time spent on packing the seeds and the materials consumed. With regret, we can no longer offer free shipping.

Germination talking, I would like to share a chance finding, which also opens a new subject of conversation regarding germination inhibitors contained in fleshy fruits/seeds.
A batch of Viburnum acerifolium fruits collected later in the fall had remained in a Ziploc bag awaiting cleaning. In order to avoid having them dry out to the point of being impossible to clean, I added a few drops of water in the bag. Time passed and I thought there were enough cleaned seeds of Maple leaf Viburnum for the season. The intention was to just sow the seeds from the Ziploc for myself (wanted to do it for some 2-3 years now). Busy times passed again, winter came and a few weeks ago what did I noticed in the purple mush from the Ziploc? A few roots! I placed the germinated seeds in vermiculite and in the fridge for their cold cycle required.

We know that Viburnum species do germinate at warm (roots only) and the shoots will grow after a cold period: Friday seeds and germination requirements for Viburnum species.

The surprise came from the fact that it is well known that the fleshy parts of fruits/seeds contain germination inhibitors. Something new to think about…

Seeds talking, there are still few moist packed species available. The restart of shipping was promised for February, then March…. Unfortunately, night temp. are still too low to expose ‘active’ seeds to various shipping routes. There is hope than in 1-2 weeks the weather will look more promising. The restart of moist packed seeds delivery and the available species will be announced.

Overall, there are signs that we can hope for the spring to arrive. Indoor seedlings are growing, birds are singing, and the first snowdrops are peeking up timidly from the ground.

New seedlings March 2022

There are so many interesting seeds-related subjects that sometimes it is hard to choose what to write, or the time is too short.

An email arrived yesterday saying:
“I thought I’d better drop you a line before I forget. Have been now been giving most of my north american seeds at least a week of moist and warm temps before chilling. Today, after less than a week of 65 to 70 degrees f I have 25 yellow asclepias germinated and now in cells. I have had such luck with Asclepias tuberosa that I have collected and germinated so I am not shocked but especially since these are the yellow form, I did not expect such germination.
Most impressive, Thank you, Regards Catherine”

My answer was, besides thank you and so on… that the very good germination at room temperature may be due to the ‘older’ seed lot from 2020. (Last year there were no fruits on the yellow Asclepias). Maybe others are also familiar with the knowledge that ‘older’ Asclepias seeds germinate better than fresh ones, which could be explained by the after-ripening (post-maturation) requirement.

I don’t know for sure of this is the reason; usually I recommend to sow Asclepias species in late fall/early winter because there are some which require a cold/moist stratification for good germination (A. exaltata for example). If they don’t, it doesn’t matter, they will germinate in late spring when it gets warm.

 In any case, it is a good time to discuss a bit about the AR.
First, what is this after-ripening? Some define after-ripening (AR) as “a time and environment regulated process occurring in the dry seed, which determines the germination potential of seeds”.

Very simple, I would say that after-ripening is a process through which dry seeds are ‘preparing’ themselves to get out of dormancy and germinate, if and when the right conditions arrive. The AR involves the loss of water content of the seeds up to certain point which naturally happens in nature after the seeds ripen and fall on the ground/remain in the dry fruits.

Not all dry seeds species require an after-ripening period. It is known for sure that many many grasses require AR, but otherwise we do not have a comprehensive list of species that require AR. I only know about Asclepias, Polygala, and various Brassicaceae species.

AR is a complex process during which various physiological and molecular mechanisms are taking place within the dry seeds. If for some reason AR is not complete, the seeds will not germinate even if they are placed in proper condition (water, light/dark…); instead they will remain dormant (eventually they will germinate, but give them time…).

It would be impossible to approximate the exact duration for AR I guess, considering it cannot be the same for all species. Usually seeds collected in the summer and kept dry at room temperature should have enough time for after-ripening until late fall/early winter.

It has been shown that increasing the temperature at which seeds are after-ripened generally increases the rate of dormancy loss, but on the other hand, at high temperatures, the seed viability loss accelerate. So, it is a give and take if we want to manipulate AR or store the seeds long-term.

Conclusion:

Just like many seeds require to be sown right away (those recalcitrant ones), others require a ‘quiet time’ by themselves :) in a dry state, to be ready for the germination.
For gardeners and small operations, after collecting the seeds it is best to let them dry in paper bags in the house until late fall (in contrast to putting them in the fridge right away!). Exception: fleshy fruits/seeds which need to be cleaned first.

And yes, the after ripening requirement could be another reason that sometimes we stare at an ‘empty’ sowing pot wondering what went wrong.

Not one boring minute when dealing with plants and seeds :)
*I am always happy to receive good/interesting germination updates about the seeds you received. If you have bad news, it is fine as well. Maybe we can figure what went wrong together.

Sowing too much already, haven’t we? Well, there are much worse vices than this one. The indoors sowing is almost done and a few species are starting to germinate already.

I always try to test some of the new seeds additions, which I suspect by association with similar species, to be warm germinators.
And indeed, Silene turgida, Ziziphora clinopodioides and Gypsophila patrinii have germinated after about 10 days at room temperature.

Ziziphora clinopodioides seedlings

Reminder: if you try to germinate something at room temperature and nothing happens after 3-4 weeks, move the pot in a cold location for 1-2 months and then bring it back to warmth.

Also, I just sowed, as usual, a small batch of Aquilegia species with GA3 treatment (and a few others like Thalictrum petaloideum). Many Aquilegia species are short lived by nature and not always manage to reseed by themselves. But they are so easy from seeds!

Aquilegia flavescens, yellow columbine; a species not as often cultivated like A. chysantha, that can be found in the subalpine meadows of the Rocky Mountains.

Re-sowed:  Aquilegia chaplinei, Chaplin’s columbine, another yellow flowered species of North America. This small, delicate species grows well in a moist location and I don’t seem to find a good place for it. Plus, it has been devoured by the columbine sawfly so I am trying for a larger population (meaning 3-4 plants).

Thinking long spurs, Aquilegia Origami white is a very good substitute for the long spurred native Aquilegia coerulea, the Colorado blue columbine.

And something blue for yet another snow day: Salvia nutans, the nodding sage. A most intriguing and rarely cultivated Salvia (seeds were offered 2 years ago) which unfortunately had suddenly perished last summer after flowering (I suspect a soil born infection based on the symptoms). Just when I thought I found a perfect companion for the gas plant (Dictamnus albus). Both enjoy a full sun, well drained location & calcareous substrate.

 

Advice:
Always collect and keep a back-up reserve of seeds from your most cherished plants, you may never know when you need them.

Always try to grow 2-3 specimens of your favorite plants; take action and propagate them before is too late (seeds, cuttings, division).