Gaultheria procumbens ‘fruit’ revealed

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Later than expected, the seed stock for Gaultheria procumbens has been replenished. Some seeds are more difficult to extract and sort out than others, but speaking of the wintergreen, it is one of those species that I always postpone to start cleaning. And there is a good reason for it.

Everyone is familiar with the lovely urn-shaped white flowers of the wintergreen (rarely pink).

For those unfamiliar with the wintergreen, a presentation of this species was done a few years ago: Shining. The red, shiny fruits are commonly called berries. In more botanical inclined resources they are described as “berry-like capsules”. So, what is what?

Looking or opening a fresh wintergreen ‘berry’ will only reveal the seeds enclosed in a highly aromatic, white, mealy mass, which gives off a nice winterberry flavor (methyl salicylate), much stronger than the crushed leaves would. It is almost impossible to remove and sort out the seeds when they are fresh (at least by hand). The trick is to let them dry in a paper bag for a while, until the capsule gets differentiated from the mealy mass.

A picture will explain better what’s happening: the ovary gives rise to a small capsule and the calyx forms the actual red, edible covering/white, mealy underneath and will enclose the capsule, leaving a small opening (when dry). Hence the berry-like aspect of the ‘fruit’, that theoretically is a capsule, accompanied by a fleshy calyx (click to open the gallery).

Gaultheria procumbens fruits

Gaultheria procumbens fruit and seeds

Gaultheria procumbens seeds

*The genus Gaultheria comprises many species growing on various continents and besides fleshy calyces, some have real berries as fruits, while others present dry capsules. It has been suggested that the type of fruit in Gaultheria species has evolved in connection with their habitat. Species with fleshy calyces or berry fruits tend to occur in the forests/margins and clearings and may depend on the brightly colored and fleshy calyces or berries to attract animals, which act as dispersal agents by eating the fruits. Species with dry capsules often grow on more exposed sites and rely on wind dispersal. 

With this we say farewell to 2021. Thank you to all the regular readers and occasional visitors of the website.
Growing and learning more about plants, one fruit and seed at a time!
With hope that all our seeds will germinate & grow well and our gardens will be more beautiful than ever in 2022!

Happy New Year!

 

 

Winter-joys III: out in the woods

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It goes without saying that woodlands are enchanted places year long.
In deciduous woods even when all trees have lost their leaves, we can find many green “winter-joys” during the snowless periods: moss covered rocks, moss on tree trunks and stumps, slopes and woodland floor with sedges, wintergreen (Gaultheria) and others such as: Chimaphila, Polystichum, Coptis trifolia, Mitella, and of course, the queens of the woodlands: Hepatica americana and Hepatica acutiloba.
Mosses require a specialized expertise (and a microscope!) for correct identification; therefore in most cases I abstain to provide a name because it might be incorrect.

Woodland floor moss

Rock moss

Tree moss (notice the Asclepias seed!)

Decayed wood moss

Rhodobryum ontariense

Carex pensylvanicum and moss rocks

We can admire all of them and also draw inspiration from their growing habitat. Reproducing the moss boulders in our gardens would pose serious challenges, but a decaying stump in the shade is always a good opportunity to try and establish moss and species which like to grow on it, like seen in the pictures.
Sedges (Carex) are easy to grow from seeds and establish in the garden, and there are species for almost any type of location (sun to shade and wet to dry). Same goes for others like Mitella, Tiarella (picture in my garden), Polystichum acrostichoides and many other ferns, Hepatica and Gaultheria.

Gaultheria procumbens

Chimaphila umbellata

Polygala paucifolia

Hepatica americana

Mitella diphylla

Tiarella cordifolia, garden

Polystichum acrostichoides, Christmas fern

Mitchella repens

A mossy rock!

*Thanks to good weather Chimaphila seeds and Gaultheria fruits were collected (in stock after they can be cleaned and sorted out).
**Sedges (Carex) are also very difficult to identify and there are about 200 species in Ontario!

Winter joys II

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*Hepatica x media ‘Silberprinzessin’ in the feature image.

Modest snow and by the weekend back to spring-like temperatures! It seems we’ll admire for quite a while our “winter joys” in S. Ontario this year.

I will start the second part of this series with Phlomis russeliana, another underused species, in my opinion. The Jerusalem sage, a native of the Middle Eastern regions, is perfectly cold hardy and will grow well in well drained locations, sun to part-shade to form a nice groundcover of large, light green/fuzzy underneath leaves with a felt-like texture. Tall flowering stems with whorls of yellow flowers form in the summer. It spreads slowly by very tight rhizomes, so don’t be afraid, it won’t take over the garden. It grows part-shaded by a large spruce, which also ensures a good drainage.

Phlomis russeliana

Phlomis russeliana flowers

To its left,  Helleborus foetidus (Bear’s foot or stinking Hellebore), another ‘winter joy’, like all the Helleborus. The more you have, the better. One would think they are widespread in all the gardens here but actually that is not the case. Maybe too expensive? But they are so easy to grow from seeds and you will end up with seedlings to share with all the friends. You can expect the first flowers in the third or fourth year and there is usually a great variation, ie. nice surprises!

Helleborus foetidus

Helleborus x hybridus

Helleborus x hybridus double

The next best thing to the Helleborus spp. are the evergreen Epimediums (few species and hybrids). A subject dear to me, they can be expensive  but worthwhile; long lived and with beautiful foliage all year long. Just like for Helleborus, new foliage will grow up in the spring (also the best time to cut back the old stems/foliage to enjoy the flowers).

Epimedium ‘Amber Queen’

Epimedium acuminatum new foliage spring

Epimedium lishihchenii new foliage, May

I am starting to like more and more the biennial and/or monocarpic species. Many of them develop ornamental leaves rosettes in the first year and remain as such over the winter: Digitalis purpurea, D. ferruginea, some Erysimum species, Ipomopsis rubra, various Cirsiums, Symphyandra, to mention just  a few. You get to know and enjoy the flowers in the second year and then, a choice: grow them again/let reseed or move on to something else :) After all, there is only that much space available and so many other species to grow! I am looking fdw to D. ferruginea ssp. schischkinii to flower next near and will always welcome Ipomopsis rubra and Erysimum witmannii ssp. transsilvanicum.

Digitalis ferruginea ssp. schischkinii rosette

Ipomopsis rubra

Erysimum witmannii ssp.transsilvanicum foliage late fall

Symphyandra wanneri end November

Last summer the beautiful & monocarpic Cirsium macounii var. edule also flowered and it was source of delight for all, including the pollinators, especially the sweat bees.
Being realistic I admit that I do not have the space to make it a permanent garden resident. It was fun to grow it though and I can share seeds with others more fortunate in garden space.

Other great biennial or short-lived perennials that overwinter as rosettes are: Capnoides sempervirens, Corydalis ophiocarpa, Pseudofumaria alba and P. lutea (Pseudofumaria ssp. remain perennials in this zone).  I already talked about Corydalis and aliases a few times, so will end of the post here.

There are many other plants that remain beautiful over the winter in a cold climate: various ferns and grasses (mostly Carex, Luzula), Mitella diphylla, Tiarella, Tellima, Pachyphragma, Geum triflorum….and probably more could be added to the list.

Erysimum, Geum triflorum, Thymus and Sempervivum

Corydalis ophiocarpa, late-fall winter

Asplenium scolopendrium

Dryopteris, Epimedium

 

Winter joys

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*In the featured image: Hepatica transsilvanica ‘Winterfreude’ (in translation “winterjoy”)

December sneaked in with a few flurries but usually a reliable snow cover will settle in only later in the month or in January (hopefully). It is particularly around this time that gardeners start to appreciate more the perennials and shrubs that retain their foliage (leaving aside the true evergreens).

I always use the snowless periods to count my ‘winter joys’ and thinking about adding more such plants in the garden. Unfortunately, quite a few species, even if full hardy, don’t handle well the winter desiccation in a 5-6 zone. The most common broadleaf shrubs we can use are:  Buxus, Daphne, Ilex, Mahonia, Gaultheria, Arctostaphylos and Rhododendrons/Azaleas (only some species here in ON).

But I haven’t seen Paxistima canbyi, Canby’s mountain lover or cliff green, in many gardens. Always willing to give a try to something new I acquired one a few years ago. It was planted on a part shaded slope exposed to winter sun and wind; snow cover sometimes minimal because of a nearby spruce. It defied all expectations! I already shared with a few friends (stolons; cuttings should also work well) and I highly recommend it for cold regions, zone 5-6.

Paxistima canbyi, Canby’s mountain lover. It can be found growing wild in a few localities of central Appalachian Mts. (US) on limestone bluffs and cliffs and is said to be threatened/endangered. A low growing small shrub, with narrow, glossy leaves; the flowers are tiny, insignificant. Named after William Marriot Canby,  businessman, plant collector and amateur botanist from Delaware who discovered it in the wild.

Another underused evergreen shrub which does well in cold regions is Erica carnea – winter heath, with its many varieties.
Low growing shrubs with needle like leaves and small urn-shaped flowers, usually pink or white. They grow well with good drainage, in sandy soils, in sun to part shade. Most also flower very early in the spring when not much else is available for early pollinators.

Erica carnea ‘Rosalie’ in December

Bulbs speaking, everyone should have an Arum in the garden (aka Lords-and-Ladies). They are truly wonders of the season with the way they start growing in the fall and how their foliage is bouncing back after being frozen.

Arum italicum ‘Marmoratum’ is the most common form available to purchase, but you can also procure or grow from seeds various other forms with patterned leaves. They are all beautiful. The second image is one grown from seeds as ‘Chameleon’, and there is another form nearby which I’ll have to separate.

Arum italicum ‘Marmoratum’

Arum ‘Chameleon’

Arum, another patterned leaf form

I would be interested to hear about other broadleaf small shrubs capable to withstand zone 5-6 winters.
Next, about other “winter joys”; we can have relatively green gardens even in the winter!

 

*The shipping of moist packed seeds has been suspended.
Caulophyllum thalictroides seeds will be available again in late spring.

 

Friday’s Lamiaceae: calyces & nuts

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Cleaning and sorting out the fruits/seeds in preparation for cold storage is always a good occasion to ponder on their characteristics.

It is time to discuss a bit the Lamiaceae family, which has so many genera and species well-known to all gardeners for their ornamental or/and aromatic, culinary & medicinal qualities: Acinos, Clinopodium, Lamium, Salvia, Stachys, Mentha, Monarda, Monardella, Nepeta, Origanum, Thymus, Phlomis and Phlomoides, Pycnanthemum… to mention just a few.

Not that we have to go ‘nuts’ about details, but it is always good to know what we are dealing with when collecting, cleaning, sharing and sowing the “seeds”.

What many of these species have in common is the fact that their fruits, called nutlets, form and remain inside the floral calyces (with some exceptions). What we are actually sowing is these fruits; the seeds are inside and cannot be separated. A nutlet, is a small, hard walled, single seeded fruit (practically a small nut).

Acinos alpinus nutlets

Clinopodium arkansanum nutlets

Salvia daghestanica nutlets

The calyces vary greatly in size from small ( Acinos, Clinopodium, Thymus), to medium (Salvia daghestanica, Stachys) and very large (Stachys inflata), and in some cases they can be quite ornamental (Stachys, Salvia species); some can also remain on the stems for a long time: Phlomoides, Monarda, Pycnanthemum.

Stachys inflata nutlets

Stachys inflata calyx, nutlets

Phlomoides tuberosa

Practical point of views:

The collection of such fruits can be more or less difficult. In the case of species with very small calyces, most times nutlets will be retained inside, and by collecting the calyces, one will also collect the fruits. The larger the calyces, the more likely is for the nutlets to scatter on the ground when ripen. This is a game changer: waiting too long and the seeds are gone, not waiting enough, and they are immature.

Most often, the calyces get dry/brownish and this is a sign that the nutlets are ready. They can be collected by striping them from the stems/or cutting off the upper portion of the stems. But in cases like Stachys inflata, the calyces remain the same silvery color and it is very hard to guess; periodical checking the fruits status is the only solution. Then, portions of the stems are cut and placed in paper bags.

Cleaning, sorting out: small size calyces usually only require cleaning the debris and will be shared as such.

Origanum calyces with no “seeds” from a seedex

For larger size calyces:  most often the fruits will fall out by themselves after the calyces dry out completely (if there are some left inside!). Let them stay in a paper bag for a while. If you were too late to collect, then no nutlets will be found!

 Make sure that you don’t share empty calyces instead of “seeds”! (this is the most common situation with the Seeds exchanges).
For species with medium to large size calyces – ONLY the nutlets should be shared.

 

                                                                            

 

This post has gotten long enough; part 2 may follow with Scutellaria and a few other Lamiaceae which differ in the fruits aspect.
Few more pictures for a cloudy day; the first couple with a trio of success from my rockery: Acinos alpinus, Stachys inflata and a thyme: beautiful and green all year long.

Acinos alpinus, Thymus, Stachys

Acinos, Thymus, Stachys, late fall – winter

Clinopodium arkansanum

Salvia daghestanica

Stachys inflata

Salvia verticillata close-up

Monardella odoratissima

Pycnanthemum virginianum

Phlomis russeliana

In the featured image: late fall aspect of Pycnanthemum virginianum (mountain mint).

What’s for sowing? and Ramps galore

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At this time I am sowing not only seeds (giddy up sowing species with cold/moist stratification requirements!) but also germinated seeds (roots only) of species kept in moist storage. If they are not purchased before the roots emerge, of course, there is nothing else to do with them.

Allium tricoccum (ramps, wild leek) germinated seeds

I cannot throw away Allium tricoccum in any form because it is an almost endangered species now due to over collecting in the wild habitat (never collect ramps bulbs from the wild). I am sure I will find a home for the baby ramps in the spring.

No ‘crying wolf’ next year for the ramps seeds please. Here’s the method for easily obtaining ramps galore, which will be posted on the Germination page:

Watch carefully for the seeds to reach maturation; hurry up to collect them before falling down (late August-early September depending on the region).
Clean, sort out and sow right away, or
Pack the seeds in slightly moist vermiculite; keep them at temperatures that mimics late summer/early fall.
Periodically check the bag for moisture levels.
Plant the germinated seeds after the roots emerge.
Keep the pot in a cold location (or ‘plant’ it in the ground for the winter).
Watch for the sprouts in early spring.

Use them to flavor a spring salad or,
Grow them further to obtain adult ramps.

Curious what’s on my winter sowing list?

Well, a few new species for this year available in the Seed List such as: Primula nivalis and Anemonastrum sibiricum, Primula maximocwiczii, Lomatium sandbergii (from Mt. Baldy, BC), to mention just a few.

In general, I also sow more species from previous years, they are always behind due to lack of space (Cirsium hookerianum from the Rockies, Mimulus lewisii….). Furthermore, I sow previous species for which I lost the young seedlings, most often due to slugs (like in the case of Veronica schmidtiana).
Few new species in too small quantities to share with everyone, like Dodecatheon frigidum and Arnica lessingii from Norther BC and Gentiana dschungarica from Altai are also on my fall/winter sowing list.

And with the sowing, also the virtual traveling begins! Everyone has their own desires and choices; the important thing is to keep on sowing! and keep on dreaming!
Cirsium hookerianum and few of its companions growing in wild habitat (mountains of SWAlberta and SE BC).

Cirsium hookerianum

Aquilegia flavescens

Mimulus lewisii

Erythronium grandiflorum

Friday’s Seeds and other happenings

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There are a few more new seeds for the start of November:
Allium pseudojaponicum – an excellent small size Allium for early fall flowering.
Allium victorialis – one to enjoy and also made it into a salad.
Liatris microcephala – the dwarf and beautiful Appalachian blazing star.

A couple of species that produced very few seeds this year are also available. Both are easy to germinate and grow:
Callirhoe digitata
Calycanthus floridus
And maybe, maybe Allium thunbergii ‘Ozawa’ seeds will have time to mature this year.

Allium pseudojaponicum

Liatris microcephala

Callirhoe digitata

Calycanthus floridus

Various moist packed species are getting impatient and showing the first signs of germination. Few like Trillium grandiflorum and Paris quadrifolia are on time, for others like Uvularia and Symplocarpus, ‘it’s just happening’. Not 2 seeds are the same…

Trillium grandiflorum germinated seeds (root only)

Uvularia grandiflora germinated seeds (root only)

Symplocarpus foetidus germinated seed

We also got our first nights below zero Celsius and the first flurries; it is November after all. But the trees are still wearing bright colors and fall Crocus and other stubborn plants are refusing to let go.

A from….

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Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense
Arisaema cf. amurense Silver leaf form (explanation about this offering on the product page)

and Asclepias exaltata

recently added to the inventory.

The Arisaema sp. germinate at room temp., so there is no hurry for them, but Asclepias exaltata will benefit from a healthy period of cold/moist stratification (like many other species). This is the perfect time to start the fall sowings (ie. sow, water and leave the pots outdoors throughout the winter).

Unfortunately Allium psedojaponicum didn’t make the short list, the seeds are still drying in a paper bag – coming soon. For other species recently posted, check out the Seed List.

Keep on sowing!

Arisaema ciliatum var. liubaense 2019

Arisaema cf. amurense Silver Leaf form

Asclepias exaltata

Asclepias exaltata seeds

*A reminder that the remaining moist packed seeds will not be available if/when the temperatures start plunging sharply in late November/December.

Mid-October seeds

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Between rainy days, various native species were collected and placed in the inventory.
At the same time, some seeds arrived from kind contributors.

Those interested can find now in the Seeds List some of the NA native species offered almost every year like: Amphicarpaea bracteata, Triosteum aurantiacum, Euonymus obovatus, Smilax herbacea and Lilium canadense.
Also the new – Lilium superbum, the turk’s cap lily, which looks a bit like a gigantic L. michiganense.

No rush, by early next week, a few more Lilium species will be uploaded to the inventory:
L. distichum, L. bulbiferum var. croceum…, an Arisaema or two, and few others.

It is always good to check the Seeds List once in a while in the fall. Species that are new for the Shop are being marked as such.
From last’s week uploads: Ceanothus herbaceus, Liatris ligulistylis, Eupatorium perfoliatum and Vernonia gigantea to mention just a few native species.

 

Amphicarpaea bracteata

Triosteum aurantiacum

Liatris ligulistylis

Eupatorium perfoliatum

Vernonia gigantea

Doodling with Dioscorea capsules

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I blame the lack of sun for doodling with Dioscorea caucasica capsules recently (they were collected after a rainy day, otherwise when completely dry, they break easily).

‘Butterflies’ of Dioscorea caucasica capsules; notice the seeds still present in the top ones.  Each wing of the capsule contains 2 (or 1) seeds.

Dioscorea caucasica has established happily in the garden and is easy to germinate and grow.
Same goes for our only native species: Dioscorea villosa, which would happily climb on a tree trunk, dead or alive in a sun to part shade location.  Both species are in need of conservation and ‘propagation means conservation’ is our slogan.

Dioscorea caucasica

Dioscorea villosa

After successfully growing D. caucasica, I can say that it is an easy to grow species. Sow the seeds in late fall outdoors, be patient, they will germinate quite late in the spring, but after that they will grow vigorously and you can plant the whole sowing pot by fall (or in the next spring) in the desired location. Good luck will make it to obtain both female and male plants in your little clump (the flowers are really insignificant, but the capsules are quite decorative).

It has rain quite a lot lately and I will mention other species that prefer wet places:
For those interested, there is a small amount of Symplocarpus foetidus seeds available (no international shipping).
Iris versicolor is also back in the inventory. And you can always throw in the mix a handful of Lobelia siphilitica and Lobelia cardinalis seeds.

Parnassia and Triantha have been in demand this fall, but there are still some seeds available.

Symplocarpus foetidus

Lobelia siphilitica with bumblebee

Triantha glutinosa flowers

Lobelia cardinalis

Parnassia palustris flower detail

Iris versicolor

Weather allowing, it is about the time to collect the hog peanut (Amphicarpaea bracteata) seeds….

The quartet, with emphasis on Trautvetteria

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I thought I’ll write about a triad but almost a week has passed by and it has become a quartet!
The following species, all good in part-shaded locations, are in the inventory: Gillenia trifoliata, Spigelia marilandica, Glaucidium palmatum and Trautvetteria caroliniensis.

The first 3 need no introduction for the garden aficionados; who doesn’t know about the butterfly-like flowers of Gillenia, the ‘hummingbird magnet’ Indian pink (Spigelia), and ethereal flowers of Glaucidium?


On the other hand, Trautvetteria caroliniensis (False bugbane) is not that well known and cultivated. It is the only species of the genus with a North American and Asian distribution. Trautvetteria populations from N. America and Asia were treated as different varieties for a while, but it seems that no differentiating characters could be found between them.

I found Trautvetteria to be an intriguing plant. The ‘naked’ inflorescences composed of only white stamens are very similar to those of Hydrastis canadensis; the palmate leaves are also hinting towards Hydrastis or Glaucidium, both from Ranunculaceae family. After all, an older synonym name is Hydrastis caroliniensis.

Of course, those not interested in botanical details are just growing it because it is a beautiful and interesting plant for part-shaded locations.

The fruit is called utricle and contains one seed; so in fact we will be sowing the fruits. It is not practical to remove the pericarp as seeds may get damaged if trying to do so. I only took a few out to take a picture.

Trautvetteria caroliniensis fruits and seeds

Like for many other species from Ranunculaceae, we have to assume that the seeds are best sown asap, probably requiring first a slightly warm/moist period before a cold one (otherwise we can expect germination in the second year). It is a rhizome forming species, so don’t expect it to flower sooner than 3-4 years.

*Ernst Rudolf von Trautvetter (1809-1889), was a botanist from Estonia who specialized in flora of the Caucasus and Central Asia; during his life he served as director of the Botanical Garden in St. Petersburg and Professor and director of the Botanical Garden in Kiev.

Enough talk, let’s get going  with the sowing! Time flies.

The first 2 orders containing the trio of North American species: Gillenia, Spigelia and Trautvetteria – receive a free pck. of Glaucidium seeds!!!

 

Back to the bakeapple

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More and more, after trying various unsuccessful methods to germinate this species, I wonder why some people would bother to attempt growing it from seeds; except perhaps from curiosity.

The latest update (#3) on Rubus chamaemorus germination was added in the same post with update #2 and can be found HERE.

I hope that one day I will have the occasion to taste the fruits which are hailed as a delicious and with multiple health qualities. But I am realistic that I won’t harvest them from my seeds grown plants!

Rubus chamaemorus is a species with circumboreal distribution* and it cannot be grown in warm and /or humid climates; plus, it is dioecious and one would need male and female plants to produce fruits.
Even in the wild, in some years the fruit yield is very low. The primary means of reproduction is by vegetative rhizomes, and they can form large clonal colonies; this is also not favorable for fruits set.

The majority of fruits are still harvested in the wild in Nordic regions, where it grows abundantly; for many reasons the situation will probably remain the same in the near future.

There are plenty of reads on the internet for those interested in this species; just avoid the websites where they say you can grow it easily ;) Or who are trying to sell you 5 seeds ;)

Unfortunately, the hype that most times accompanies fruits/seeds/plants which are considered ‘wondrous’, leads to unrealistic expectations from the ‘consumers’, and dishonest marketing from those offering the seeds/fruits/plants or derived products.

That being said, those willing to spend 4 CAD to play with the seeds are welcome to give them a try.
If someone is interested in more than 2-3 pck. of seeds, please get in touch by using the Contact form.
Those hoping to taste cloudberry fruits, I suggest a visit to a Nordic country, or even somewhere to Northern Canada (I don’t know precise locations though).

*“Ecology and habitat. Substrates: wet meadows, around the margins of ponds, marshes, along streams, slopes, ridges, dry meadows; imperfectly drained moist areas, dry, moderately well-drained areas; moss; with high organic content, peat; acidic. Rubus chamaemorus grows in moist, peaty and turfy soils, including sphagnum bogs and hummocks with pH 2.5–4.5, muskegs, mossy tundra and black spruce bogs. The species occupies a broad spectrum of sites from dry to wet, but is most common on wetter sites, particularly raised bogs, and freshwater marshes. Good growth has been observed with the pH as high as 6.1. Rubus chamaemorus sometimes occurs in periodically dry lichen carpets on acid rocks. The species is considered to be a pioneer that rapidly colonises bare soil.”
From Flora of Canadian Arctic Archipelago: https://nature.ca/aaflora/data/www/roruch.htm

 

September seeds

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To state the obvious, it is already September!

With the attention on the Seeds List directed toward the species which need to be sown in the fall/early winter, I feature the buffaloberry, Shepherdia canadensis, which is a most valuable shrub: spring early flowering sustaining the first pollinators, edible berries, drought tolerance, nitrogen-fixing….

Shepherdia canadensis

Shepherdia canadensis


I never had the occasion to taste the famed ‘Indian ice cream’, said to be made from a crushed mixture of raspberries and buffaloberries beaten to form a foamy top, but it certainly sounds delicious!
Seeds freshly collected in beautiful BC. They need a good period of cold/moist stratification to germinate well (ie. sow in late fall and keep the pot outdoors, let the weather do the trick); some also recommend scarification before sowing.

On the letter L section you can find the newly added:
Lonicera involucrata, Lonicera utahensis and Lonicera dioica.

Lonicera involucrata

Lonicera involucrata

Lonicera utahensis

Linum hypericifolium

Those who don’t have the space or desire to grow shrubs from seeds, can find new among perennials this year – Linum hypericifolium.
Yes, Linum doesn’t have to be blue or yellow, it also comes in pink :)

Stay tuned for the Friday announcements on Trillium luteum and Primula section.

 

 

 

 

 

Native woodland garden recipe

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Select a large container (preferably a rectangular one), add a good potting soil mixture, press firmly and add:
 1/2 tbs Trillium grandiflorum seeds (+/- 50 s)
1 tbs Uvularia grandiflora seeds (+30 s)
1/2 tbs Clintonia borealis seeds (or other Trillium species)
1 tbs Caulophyllum thalictroides seeds (+/- 14 s)

Cover with 2+ cm of the same mixture and press well
Water slowly
Simmer for at least 2 years in a shaded location
For best results, dug the container in the ground, cover with a mesh; dry leaves in the fall
You may need to top up with fresh soil in the spring
Continue simmering, check regularly the water status
Ready to consume after 3-4 years (ie. to transplant the seedlings)

Trillium grandiflorum seeds

Uvularia grandiflora seeds

Clintonia borealis seeds

Optional, for more flavor sprinkle with:
Streptopus amplexifolius
Actaea spp.
Mitchella repens

Depending on the necessity, you can reduce the recipe in half, replace some of the species, or use individual pots grouped together in a flat or holding container.
*Those adventurous can also sow all these species ‘in situ’ (double up the recipe in that case).

Joke aside, from my own experience it is much easier to handle plant species with similar requirements for germination/growing conditions when grouped together.

Freshly cleaned Caulophyllum thalictroides seeds are back in stock!
Also more Podophyllum peltatum seeds!

Don’t forget to sow the moist packed seeds as soon as possible!
Thank you – Merci- Good luck!

 

Few older postings of interest:
Moist packing – what’s that?
We got the moist packed seeds – now what?
FAQ – moist packed seeds

           

Time to sow & colorful baneberries

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The well-rooted habit of sowing seeds mostly in very late fall and winter has unfortunately  given rise to misconceptions about the germination requirements of some plants, claiming that they need 2 seasons for germination (or that they are very difficult to germinate in case of hydrophilic seeds).
The truth is that they only need to be sown at the right time, which is: from summer to early fall in a temperate climate.

Failing to do so, these species will indeed need to spend 2 years in pots in order to germinate, and may also have a reduced percentage of germination. Medeola, Caulophyllum and those with double dormancy will still germinate in the second year/or over a period of two years.

I compiled a short list with the seeds which germinate best when sown asap, see below. It is by no means exclusive; I am sure there could be many others having this requirement.

Regarding Actaea (baneberry), this fall we have the occasion to sow baneberries with fruits of all colors: red, white, magenta, and even black (see Actaea spicata). Highly underused plants for the gardens, baneberries are tough, have beautiful foliage and fragrant flowers followed by colorful fruits!

Among offerings this fall there are also seeds collected in SE British Columbia: Actaea rubra ssp. arguta and A. rubra ssp. arguta fo. neglecta; read about them on the product pages (click the links).

Actaea rubra ssp. arguta

Actaea rubra ssp. arguta BC

Actaea rubra ssp. arguta fo. neglecta

Stay tuned for Shop re-opening this week and a few more announcements!

Genera/species which require to be sown by late summer/early fall, for best results.

  Genera with hydrophilic seeds Genera with hydrophilic seeds
Actaea ssp.    
Anemonastrum Asarum Jeffersonia
Cornus Aconitum (most species) Lindera
Crocus Aristolochia Medeola
Daphne mezereum, Daphne tangutica
 Saruma Paris
Delphinium (tuberous ssp.) Caulophyllum Panax
Galanthus Claytonia Podophyllum
Euonymus Corydalis (some species) Prosartes
Helleborus Clintonia Sanguinaria
Hydrophyllum Dicentra Stylophorum
Ilex Diphylleia Uvularia
Lilium (most species) Erythronium (most species)  
Paeonia (except P. tenuifolia) Epimedium  Cimicifuga simplex
Streptopus Hydrastis  Pulsatilla – some species
Viburnum Hepatica  

*this is not an exclusive list  **not all listed are for sale
Some species may still germinate in the second year after sowing, or from various other reasons may not germinate at all, but at least we did our best by sowing at the right time.

 

Early August seeds collections

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The latest seeds collected: Uvularia grandiflora, Trillium flexipes, Paeonia officinalis, Paeonia mascula and Delphinium fissum.

The first seeds are also ripening on Roscoea schneideriana – in the image above; the green capsules of Roscoea will split up unexpectedly, watch them closely if you need to collect the seeds.

Speaking about species which need to be sown asap or kept moist packed, a couple of weeks ago, together with Streptopus amplexifolius, by good chance, seeds of Erythronium grandiflorum, the glacier lily, were also collected (in the mountains of SE BC).
Don’t miss the chance, such species are collected and offered only every 2-3 years (at the very best).

Erythronium grandiflorum

Erythronium grandiflorum in habitat

Streptopus amplexifolius

The first version of the Seeds list will emphasize on species which require to be sown by late summer/early fall for best germination results.

Stay tuned….